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Member Since: Oct 23, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Max Tepfer
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Point Rank: # 421
Total Points: 1,678
Last Year: 103
Last 30 Days: 3
96 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Max Tepfer been climbing?










Contributions


All 638 | Routes 85 | Areas 12 | Photos 107 | Page Improvements | Comments 113 | Posts 182 | Stars 130 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Chapstick (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: Kinda meh. Sharp and hard to read, but cool rock and keeping one's cool is certainly rewarded. Basically a 10 bolt exercise in body position and pacing.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Mothership Sector : Mothership (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: Fun route. I'd say the crux detracts from the overall quality, but everything else is four star! Kinda tweaky cranking on the pinky. (and I like to think my pinkies are pretty strong!) Also probably way harder if you can't reach the rail while standing in the bucket. I'm 5'9" w/neutral ape index and could just touch the bottom of the rail.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Cool Wall
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: It's great that the Cool Wall is being put on MP, but (this is purely speculative) I doubt Jeff gave permission. This is one more reason that you should only post routes that you've climbed. In this case it's a little funky. The guidebook used to be basically free and now that it costs a little money, we probably all feel somewhat entitled to access the information for free. Ironically, we do have 'free'... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine L... (5.12-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: This thing is stellar! (not surprising, given that pretty much everything's really good up there) Pretty friendly for 12-, (but not suggesting a downgrade) especially if you're decent at stemming. As Kerwin said, steadily easier cruxes interspersed with awesome rests make this an atypical route for the crag, but it's certainly a must do!

(didn't use stoppers and it was fine)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Voyage of the Cowdog (5.9-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: I'd agree that C.jake's concerns about rock quality are largely unfounded/their reaction is out of proportion to reality. That being said, many of the holds on the first and third pitches are a little creaky and/or have hairline fractures all around them.

More importantly, I feel like this route merits an R rating. The run outs are on super-easy climbing, but there are certainly points on the (slabby) first and third pitches that the leader could take... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Just Say Yes (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: This one's probably closer to bouldery 12b. It's got 2-3 powerful sequences interspersed with good rest followed by one really angry move. After that there are still some more punchy sequences to get to the chains. You can pretty much always stop and get it back, but the movement is overall much more sustained and powerful than the various other routes of the grade.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Spank the Monkey (5.12a PG13) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: FWIW, that's the Upper East Face via Spank. (which is barely pictured)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Full Court Press (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: Stellar route. Contrary to the above, I found numerous good shakes interspersed between the various cruxes. No hands-off stances, but plenty good enough to get it all back. If you're doing the hard moves pumped, you're doing it wrong. While it goes without the a stick clip, it's nice to have. Maybe V1-2 with a poor landing.


Location: Europe : Norway : Senja
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: I thought about posting route details for the handful of climbs we did, but ultimately chose not to. One of the things that makes this place special is the limited amount of information and the adventurous climbing experience one can have as a result. In Senja, if you have a line on a photo, you have a lot of beta. It's a rare treat in this day and age to be able to approach this type of climbing in that style. If you're looking to head here and want more beta, feel free to PM me. (or get in... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: Hey Chris,
I'm not sure what's wrong. I just tried clicking the link and it took me straight to Rakkup's TC page. Alternatively you could try googling it. For clarity, I'm talking about the link to Rakkup in the description. I'm pretty sure that the link that Luke posted is no longer current. (Jeff took the book off of Lulu after he switched to Rakkup's platform)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Moscow (5.6)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 26, 2015

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Comments: A good alternative that better manages communication and loose rock towards the top is to belay at the very end of the final corner. The rock quality in this zone is mostly poor, but there's a small stance/footledge right at the top of the wide crack where the angle rolls over into chossville. If you carefully assess rock quality, you'll find a solid crack that takes finger sized gear.

This option allows for good comms between climbers on the both the wide pitch and the final choss pitch. It... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Boy Prophet (5.12b PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: This seems like a great candidate for being rebolted. Does anybody object to the second bolt getting moved to make it less jingus/more fun?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Sunset Strip (5.10+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: I found the rack beta posted above to be spot on. If you were intimidated by the route, I'd bring more small gear. (purple-yellow tcus) Extra big gear would be wasted weight.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Liberty and Injustice for A... (5.12- PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: As has been said, this route is a gem! I thought the hardest individual move is the crux of P2, but it's not very sustained after, so the grade makes total sense. Pitch 4 is Smith Rock edging at its best, but on perfect alpine granite. I may have stepped around the first crux on this pitch. I clipped the bolt then down-climbed right to get to the flake/left-facing corner system which we followed back left. Going direct looked a lot harder, but is probably a lot of fun. Thanks for putting u... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Reservation Blues (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: This thing is soooo good. Short, powerful cruxes with excellent rests interspersed throughout. Definitely longer than 90' tho. A 70m is kind of mandatory. (a 60 works with shenanigans) My perfect rack: 3x purple Mastercams, 6x blue, 2x red C3s, 2x yellow Mastercams, 2x yellow C3s. I´d also disagree that putting gear in early on is hard. There is maybe one powerful placement and then it´s not too bad.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : The Caning (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Expect a tough clip at the 5th bolt!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Super Slab (5.6)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: This route is easily descended with a 70 (or 60 if I remember correctly) as described by PhillT above. If you're building anchors, then you're doing something wrong. (either you rapped from the wrong anchors to begin with or you missed an intermediate station) Remember, you don't descend the actual line of ascent for the upper half of the descent.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : Butane Junky (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: This climb is really good despite the reputation. You just have to like slab climbing to appreciate it. Feels like a more secure version of Watt's Tots at Smith Rock. I thought it felt a little sandy for 12a.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium : Mirage (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: A standout line at a standout crag. I felt like the crux was getting to 4th bolt. The climbing to and just after the second is pretty casual. (though there's an angry little move exiting the hueco)


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : The Gift (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 28, 2015

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Comments: This thing has incredible climbing. (though height dependent) I'm 5'9" with a pretty neutral wingspan and everything felt just about right, but my partner who's a few inches shorter than me had a way harder time. Seems like the move at the 4th bolt can be (and is?) done a few different ways. Hand traversing right seemed easier than trying to go straight up.

The bolts definitely could use some attention. Right now they're all expansion bolts (excepting the drilled angle at the start. Why is... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Monster (5.11+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 7, 2015

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Comments:
  • *Full Beta Spraydown Alert!*

Right hand thumbs up in the first (and really only) good lock off the block. Oppose this with your right foot on a small half-moon divot on the right wall. (usually a little black from shoe rubber) Palm the left arete at hip height and hand-foot match with your left foot. Left hand up to the crimp just left of the arete. Jam right toe in the crack. (exactly where is height dependent) Toss for the next good lock with your right hand thumbs up.

From this poin... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Free Lunch (5.10a PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: The gear beta above is pretty much spot on. While there's looseness everywhere, really only the first pitch and the third pitch suck to climb. Higher up the rock that you have to touch improves dramatically. It's worth noting that the 3rd pitch is a traverse with some climbing up and down. In hindsight, this seems obvious, but I missed it despite reading the beta above and in the Watt's guide.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.9 C1)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: As of 2013 the bad bolt on the traverse into the Higbee Hedral was still there.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Heinous Cling (5.12c) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: Actually, definitely Heinous Cling.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Suzuki (5.10+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Yep. Probably a tad harder if you ignore the left crack. Makes for a nice 11-ish variation. (a good second stage warmup if you're getting on a fingercrack after) Honestly, it feels more straightforward to me. (albeit more powerful) Pretty sure the left crack has been contrived at 12-/12ish too.


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