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Member Since: Oct 23, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Max Tepfer
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Point Rank: # 421
Total Points: 1,686
Last Year: 110
Last 30 Days: 8
100 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Max Tepfer been climbing?










Contributions


All 650 | Routes 85 | Areas 12 | Photos 107 | Page Improvements | Comments 121 | Posts 185 | Stars 131 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Oregon Volcanoes : Mt. Washington : West Ridge (5.8)
By: Max Tepfer When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Best alpine rock route in Oregon no contest. Having done both, the south side approach to the notch is preferred. An alternative approach to this is to stay on the PCT until you're all the way around the south side of the topographical extension of the West Ridge and follow that drainage up through open woods and talus until at the base of the ridge. More mileage, but minimal off trail travel and very easy walking overall.

There's really no need for ... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Cougar Cliffs : The Dark Side (5.10a)
By: Max Tepfer When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I've also led a variation to this that starts one groove to the right and traverses left under the prominent roof into the drawn line. Fun and reasonably protected climbing. It's nice because it avoids the dirty squeeze and adds some more interesting climbing in the process.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Cougar Cliffs
By: Max Tepfer When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I honestly haven't done that much up there, but pretty much everything I climbed was without topo/gear beta/grade, etc. That being said, I don't see much wrong with listing sport vs. trad or giving routes vague grades. In general I feel like less is more in this case. Honestly TMG doesn't use it as a guiding venue that much despite the fact that we advertise it on our website. (it's more a place we recreate than w... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: There isn't any free camping or overnight parking. It's a paid BLM campground without water and with bathrooms, picnic tables, and fire rings. blm.gov/or/districts/prinevill...

The timing of the approach is subjective. It usually takes me about 30 minutes up the North Trail, but if you're carrying a lot of gear and don't like walking uphill, and go the long way, it wouldn&@PO... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 16, 2016

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Comments: For maximum fun and minimum belaying: link 1 and 2, 3 and 4, (either to intermediate rappel anchor in chimney or a bit of simuling to higher anchor) and 5 and 6. Pitch out 7 and 8.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Domes : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: This route is Mega! Awesome corner climbing interspersed with intricate face climbing on perfect rock. Get on it!

Gear: Double rack is completely adequate as long as you have and use stoppers. The #4 got used on the 5.9 pitch and that was it. Probably best left at home. I took triples of 0.3-0.5 up the crux corner and finished with an absurd amount of gear on my harness.

Grade: The two face cruxes are for sure harder than anything else on the route, but despite what'@SEMIC... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: The 11b crux is way harder than anything else on the route. Given its location on the pitch and the large ledge right above it, it's a good candidate for leaving the rack at the belay and tagging it up after getting through the crux. Also, the pitch after this is mid 5.10, not 11a. I have no idea where that grade came from. It's locker fingers in a corner with feet...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Cougar Cliffs
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: How do folks feel about keeping most route beta for this crag minimal? Cougar Buttress is up and that's fine as that's what most people will go do, but with everything else we have an opportunity. We can simultaneously encourage use, (MP now says there's climbing up there, so it must be true!) but maintain the adventurous tradition of the crag. At most I'd say routes with lines. Funky hand drawn topos are great. ... more >>


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Chapstick (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: Kinda meh. Sharp and hard to read, but cool rock and keeping one's cool is certainly rewarded. Basically a 10 bolt exercise in body position and pacing.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Mothership Sector : Mothership (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: Fun route. I'd say the crux detracts from the overall quality, but everything else is four star! Kinda tweaky cranking on the pinky. (and I like to think my pinkies are pretty strong!) Also probably way harder if you can't reach the rail while standing in the bucket. I'm 5'9" w/neutral ape index and could just touch the bottom of the rail.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Cool Wall
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: It's great that the Cool Wall is being put on MP, but (this is purely speculative) I doubt Jeff gave permission. This is one more reason that you should only post routes that you've climbed. In this case it's a little funky. The guidebook used to be basically free and now that it costs a little money, we probably all feel somewhat entitled to access the information for free. Ironically, we do have 'free'... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine L... (5.12-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: This thing is stellar! (not surprising, given that pretty much everything's really good up there) Pretty friendly for 12-, (but not suggesting a downgrade) especially if you're decent at stemming. As Kerwin said, steadily easier cruxes interspersed with awesome rests make this an atypical route for the crag, but it's certainly a must do!

(didn't use stoppers and it was fine)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Voyage of the Cowdog (5.9-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: I'd agree that C.jake's concerns about rock quality are largely unfounded/their reaction is out of proportion to reality. That being said, many of the holds on the first and third pitches are a little creaky and/or have hairline fractures all around them.

More importantly, I feel like this route merits an R rating. The run outs are on super-easy climbing, but there are certainly points on the (slabby) first and third pitches that the leader could take... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Just Say Yes (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: This one's probably closer to bouldery 12b. It's got 2-3 powerful sequences interspersed with good rest followed by one really angry move. After that there are still some more punchy sequences to get to the chains. You can pretty much always stop and get it back, but the movement is overall much more sustained and powerful than the various other routes of the grade.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Spank the Monkey (5.12a PG13) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: FWIW, that's the Upper East Face via Spank. (which is barely pictured)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Full Court Press (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: Stellar route. Contrary to the above, I found numerous good shakes interspersed between the various cruxes. No hands-off stances, but plenty good enough to get it all back. If you're doing the hard moves pumped, you're doing it wrong. While it goes without the a stick clip, it's nice to have. Maybe V1-2 with a poor landing.


Location: Europe : Norway : Senja
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: I thought about posting route details for the handful of climbs we did, but ultimately chose not to. One of the things that makes this place special is the limited amount of information and the adventurous climbing experience one can have as a result. In Senja, if you have a line on a photo, you have a lot of beta. It's a rare treat in this day and age to be able to approach this type of climbing in that style. If you're looking to head here and want more beta, feel free to PM me. (or get in... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: Hey Chris,
I'm not sure what's wrong. I just tried clicking the link and it took me straight to Rakkup's TC page. Alternatively you could try googling it. For clarity, I'm talking about the link to Rakkup in the description. I'm pretty sure that the link that Luke posted is no longer current. (Jeff took the book off of Lulu after he switched to Rakkup's platform)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Moscow (5.6)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 26, 2015

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Comments: A good alternative that better manages communication and loose rock towards the top is to belay at the very end of the final corner. The rock quality in this zone is mostly poor, but there's a small stance/footledge right at the top of the wide crack where the angle rolls over into chossville. If you carefully assess rock quality, you'll find a solid crack that takes finger sized gear.

This option allows for good comms between climbers on the both the wide pitch and the final choss pitch. It... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (l) Christian Brothers : Christian Brothers - East S... : Boy Prophet (5.12b PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: This seems like a great candidate for being rebolted. Does anybody object to the second bolt getting moved to make it less jingus/more fun?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Sunset Strip (5.10+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: I found the rack beta posted above to be spot on. If you were intimidated by the route, I'd bring more small gear. (purple-yellow tcus) Extra big gear would be wasted weight.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Liberty and Injustice for A... (5.12- PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: As has been said, this route is a gem! I thought the hardest individual move is the crux of P2, but it's not very sustained after, so the grade makes total sense. Pitch 4 is Smith Rock edging at its best, but on perfect alpine granite. I may have stepped around the first crux on this pitch. I clipped the bolt then down-climbed right to get to the flake/left-facing corner system which we followed back left. Going direct looked a lot harder, but is probably a lot of fun. Thanks for putting u... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Reservation Blues (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: This thing is soooo good. Short, powerful cruxes with excellent rests interspersed throughout. Definitely longer than 90' tho. A 70m is kind of mandatory. (a 60 works with shenanigans) My perfect rack: 3x purple Mastercams, 6x blue, 2x red C3s, 2x yellow Mastercams, 2x yellow C3s. I´d also disagree that putting gear in early on is hard. There is maybe one powerful placement and then it´s not too bad.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : The Caning (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Expect a tough clip at the 5th bolt!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Super Slab (5.6)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: This route is easily descended with a 70 (or 60 if I remember correctly) as described by PhillT above. If you're building anchors, then you're doing something wrong. (either you rapped from the wrong anchors to begin with or you missed an intermediate station) Remember, you don't descend the actual line of ascent for the upper half of the descent.


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