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Member Since: Oct 23, 2007
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 531
Total Points: 1,070
Last Year: 158
Last 30 Days: 1
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All (394) | Routes (52) | Areas (5) | Photos (80) | Comments (75) | Posts (117) | Stars (63) | Ratings (2)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hardly Wallbanger (5.10c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Didn't really think this route was all that it's cracked up to be. Sharp and kind of loose. Definitely a lot of steep, juggy climbing, but the whole gorge is full of steep, juggy climbing.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : Der Sportsman (5.11+) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: I can't speak for the people who placed the bolts, (I assume Brooke, but am not really sure...) but I was psyched to clip them. They're right when you're most pumped and, while there are definitely good gear placements there, they're small, specific, and difficult to see and/or place from the lie-back that you end up in. This would be a proud on-sight skipping the bolts.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monument Area : The Monument : Abraxas (5.12-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Note: The FFA info in the Watt's guide is vague and only given for distinct pitches. It's unclear exactly who freed the line in its entirety first, but I suspect it was Thomas Emde. (credited w/P3 in 2001) The crux was freed in in 1975 by Wayne Arrington and Ken Currens. Lastly, I gave it 3 stars largely due to its position, history, reputation and the Tombstone Crack. I'm sure many (my partners included) will find it far less appealing and have no interest in ever repeating it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: One #4 is plenty w/bumping. Plenty of #3 placements on the 1st half of the OW. P1 and P2 link nicely as do P3 and P4.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: FWI: Maybe I missed it, but didn't see specific descent beta outlined above and the Handren Guide's beta is not fully accurate for the option that doesn't merge back w/Lotta Ball's descent. As is stated in the guidebook, descend the gully to the east 300-400 vert until an obvious rap anchor on the left below a large pine tree. Make single rope rappels until you're above a large low-angle slab-complex/amphitheater. Two double ropes into this will get you to the bottom of the amphitheater and ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: +1 that the first '5.12' pitch is not 5.12. Especially when compared to the 12b up high. The first pitch has no single move harder than V2 and has a lot of rest and easier climbing. Honestly the 11a pitch after has a harder move (but only one) than anything on the pitch below. 11c/d seems about right, but I wouldn't disagree with 11c.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northeast Face : Sky Chimney (5.7)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: To avoid bombing your partner and others with gravel atop P3, (the last real pitch) clip the bolt high on the right side of the ledge (keeps your rope off the gravel and acts as a directional) and carefully walk the edge of the ledge to the left. Most, if not all, of the gravel is uphill of the edge and is frightening. Staying low will keep you on solid rock all the way to cracks (small to medium gear) on the left.


Location: OR : Moolack : Lost Art (5.10c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: False. I've descended this many, many times with 60m ropes of varying makes and models. W/stretch it just makes it.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Colchuck Balanced Rock : Let it Burn (5.12-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: A few thoughts: the rack beta posted here's a bit wonky. I think he's trying to say single #2 and 3 when he writes single #1 and 2. We brought a #3 and found it valuable. As far as the climbing, it's a stellar route. I'd read somewhere the word gymnastic used to describe the climbing. Tack committing on and you get the picture. It's killer.

Pitch 2 is incredible. Hands down best pitch on the route.
Pitch 3 is also really good. My partner stepped right a little ear... more >>


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Red Wall : Orgasmophoria (5.10c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: I literally just climbed this route and have gone up and down Super Slab every way imaginable so let me clarify some myths here in the comments:

"I personally think that disaster is a bit much for the walk off. The gulley has maybe two moves of 5.7 climbing as you top out the slab, then your hiking again." Paul is spot on. You could even protect these moves if you wanted to with small to medium wires or cams. NBD.

If rappelling: "...bring 2 60m ropes and rappel Super Slab." Not true. I just... more >>


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : The May Fly (5.12+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: My only tid-bits to add:
The best line at Trout. Probably one of the best at the grade anywhere.
The whipper's not really that big. Just sideways. If they were bolts, you wouldn't think twice. Think 5.12 finger crack to V4 with a techy 5.11- finish.
Possibly the most perfectly named route in the world.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Steelhead (5.11)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: More specifically, two people have ripped gear and hit the ground. Both were basically okay. (which is surprising given the landing!) I fell on every move of the first 30' of the climb before I sent and never had an issue. Adventure-spoiling gear beta below:

An RP and ballnut inches apart go in before first not-easy move. A green c3 (or two or three-it's been awhile) after that and a blue before the overlap. A medium wire above the lip perfectly protects the crux. All on the left crack.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : White Trash (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: FWIW, the extension is in-credible! Definitely do it. Unlike anything else at the grade in the Park.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Ancient Futures (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: FWIW, the opening corner on the 2nd crux pitch is hard, (I have yet to send it) but isn't nearly as bad as the description makes it sound. If you can do the first two moves, you can do all the moves. It's basically 20' of V3. The hard part is stopping and clipping.

Also, +1 for the the 10+ pitch being rated a bit on the sandy side. The crux moves off the belay are pretty desperate for the grade.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: Looks like there's a new rap station skier's left of the waterslide getting out of the bowl back into the wash. (Where there's intermittently been a fixed rope around a log in years past) We'll see how long it lasts, but it's kind of nice having camo'd hangers instead of manky fixed lines. (or pulling your rope through the seeping water)


Location: OR : Trout Creek
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: The closure does not include the campground. The river road and campground are unaffected by the closure. If you do hike the river road, do not leave it and head up the trails to cliff. The closure only affects the climber's trails and crag. There should be signs after a couple hundred feet of trail.


Location: OR : Smith Rock
By: Max Tepfer When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: April can be awesome. It can also be rainy if you get unlucky, spring being a wet time of year around here. With two weeks, you'll almost certainly get at least four or more good days.


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Fall Line (5.13-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: My .02: This line is killer. A stout line at a stout crag. Imagine moving into the pod on Alchemy for 60' interrupted by two rests and you start to get the idea. Feels harder than Full Clip, the only other route like it at TC. Full Clip probably has easier moves overall but a harder crux and less rest. Also, harder to me than Mayfly. Seems like 13- would be fair. Lastly, this thing takes medium stoppers well. Worth sussing for the redpoint.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : The Mark Cartier Memorial (... (5.10)
By: Max Tepfer When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: While it's a beautiful gesture to memorialize a friend with a new line, this route is a bit of a squeeze job. To the point that it seems like it undermines the intention of the gesture.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Doritos (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: My experience disagrees with the teeny bit harder than Full Magic Light. In terms of sheer number of goes, Doritos took easily twice as much work for me to send. The hand and footholds on Doritos are consistently much smaller than FML with few rests.. Both are rad.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Crossfire (5.12a/b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: The flake's gone... (it's now sitting a the base. Look for the random small, chalked chunk of stone) This climb is totally killer! Best 12b on the tuff?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Definitely recommend taking the left option on P2. Not too hard and very good climbing. (especially compared to your alternatives...)

My experience was that extending the anchor atop the final pitch wasn't enough to keep the rope from pushing my #5 irretrievably into the crack. Doing it again, I'd pull the thing out.


Location: OR : Moolack
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: Paul,
Would you be willing to move your comment to the forums and/or edit it down to information about Moolack? (that is to say: information someone visiting there for the first time will need to know, as opposed to esoteric discussion of why they're reading about it on the internet) In its current form, it's lengthy (likely to spark discussion), somewhat of a rant, and somewhat off-topic. (Pretty much 4 for 4 on Guideline #3) In short, this isn't the place for it.
Cheers,

(I'm sorry, I ... more >>


Location: OR : Moolack
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: My .02:
Moolack is an incredible climbing venue with a high concentration of hard, splitter crack climbing on excellent rock. It is near and dear to me as a crag that taught me a lot about climbing. I can't emphasize enough how awesome it is and, in the same breath, how important it is that we not trash the place. It's been called "a wilderness crag with a front-country approach" (15 minutes...) and the fact that it's on designated wilderness makes it vitally important that we as climbers do ... more >>


Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Monster (5.11+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: So, despite my comment above, I (and a few others) now feel slightly differently about the grade. Shortly after the consensus bumped it up to 12-, new beta came to light and now I'm skeptical of whether or not the rating is consistent with other routes of the grade at the crag. In any case, know that if you figure out the easy beta, it's going to be a very quick tick for Trout 12-.


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