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Member Since: Oct 23, 2007
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Max Tepfer


Point Rank: # 400
Total Points: 1,487
Last Year: 443
Last 30 Days: 91
76 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Max Tepfer been climbing?










Contributions


All 500 | Routes 79 | Areas 10 | Photos 91 | Page Improvements | Comments 92 | Posts 123 | Stars 101 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Heinous Cling (5.12c) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Actually, definitely Heinous Cling.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Suzuki (5.10+)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Yep. Probably a tad harder if you ignore the left crack. Makes for a nice 11-ish variation. (a good second stage warmup if you're getting on a fingercrack after) Honestly, it feels more straightforward to me. (albeit more powerful) Pretty sure the left crack has been contrived at 12-/12ish too.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : ... : Viagraman (5.11c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: The latest guidebook (O'Donovan/Andrada) calls this 7a. Definitely soft at that grade.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : ... : El prado del rey (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: This route feels much more enduro than the far more bouldery Mandragora. (of the same grade) No move is distinctly hard, but the unrelenting movement stays with you to the chains.


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : ... : Remena Nena (5.12a)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Not 12a. (but really, really good!)


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Catalonia : Siurana : ... : Mandragora (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 3, 2014

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Comments: Had no problems getting to the ground (just) w/2 different 70s. The midway anchor described above is gone. This thing is mega! Must-do.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Link-up: Free for All/Dod'... (5.10c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: As to the gear discussion above: I found 1 #4 for to be perfect for walking and back protecting on the P2 OW. Also, why on earth is the anchor at the base of this pitch (P2) at a hanging stance 2 meters above a huge ledge? It makes absolutely no sense...

Lastly, we got off in 3 single rope raps with a 60 and no shenanigans. To do this it was super helpful to forgo the hanging stance mentioned above and rap 2 meters lower/climber's left to the bolts with the tat/rings at the detached ... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: No Josh, I've actually used them a lot all over and I think that they're great. Sorry if I communicated otherwise. You just happened to have written descriptions for almost all the routes I climbed here and I felt that I had some useful beta/perspective to add...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Atlantis (5.11+ PG13)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: Single set felt a bit on the thin side... You can definitely bring bigger gear for P1, but then you're trying to place it in the hardest part of the pitch... Pitches 1 and 2 link nicely.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Spook Book (5.10+ R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: I'd agree with the above comment that P2 is the crux. It's also the only pitch that really needs any amount of RPs (and you'll be fine with a single set...) The 'crux' pitch is pretty mellow, well protected enduro climbing with no distinct crux. (Despite what the description here would lead you to believe.)

Also, the fixed pin is gone and a good marker for where to belay after the 5.8 (besides 'when the climbing gets hard') is at the perfect foot ledge at the top of the flakes.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Road update: As of Fall, 2014 it was easily (albeit slowly) navigable with a heavily laden, low-clearence, 2WD. If you have any experience on rough roads in small cars, you should be fine. As has been said, the worst is at the end and you could camp sooner if you had to.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Romantic Warrior (5.12b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: +1 for linking the BOD pitches. I haven't done it, but it seems like the way. The belay is at a terrible stance, the first move off the anchor is hard with un-inspiring gear, and the pitches are super short anyway... That being said, seems like it would definitely increase the difficulty to put the two together...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Spooky (5.9)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: #3 and #4 C4s easily protect the OW with some bumping. The climbing above is some of the most fun you'll have anywhere. Sadly, you have to climb the OW to get there...


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : The Don Juan Wall (5.11b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Pitches feel pretty short (like on a lot of Needles climbs...) Linking 2 and 3 eliminates a semi-hanging stance and makes the pitch length feel a little more normal. Also, no brass necessary and the 'difficult to protect' 5.10 on pitch 4 protected easily. Gear wasn't always at your chest when you wanted it there, but it was never unsafe or devious.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Dark Star (5.11d)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: I've only been on it once, and can't speak too much to the grade, but almost sent first go and I don't usually do that on 12a. Also, wasn't Sunshine upgraded due to a key foothold breaking? (I think that scar on the left wall below/near the crux) I'm all for keeping rock climbing hard...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Bad Finger Extended (BFE) (5.11-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: In addition to the mantel being heads up, make sure to runner your gear! I didn't and all my little off-set wires fell out before I pulled the move...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Snake Rock : Lords of Karma (5.12c)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: So, Jon, what you're saying is that Go Dog is harder than Churning or Kings? Hmmm...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Trout Creek : The Northern End : Where's Noah Vibbert (5.11-)
By: Max Tepfer When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Pretty sure you'll want gear bigger than 1" for this. It's been years since I've been on it, but I'm quite sure the first half is 0.75s. Great route!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Northeast Face : Sky Ridge (5.8 R)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: See Wherever I May Roam description for rappel beta. To walk off, hike and scramble up weaknesses/gullies to the south eventually passing the towers of the Smith Rock Group and following a rough trail through the grass along the top of the formation in a southerly direction. When you can see a continuous slope to the west, turn right (west) and descend towards the Crooked eventually ending up on the trail that runs underneath WIMR.

hillmap.com/m/ag1zfmhpbGxtYXAt...... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Shoes of the Fisherman (5.11b)
By: Max Tepfer When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Yes, there is a little bit of rat urine and bird shit on this route. That being said, this is by far the longest and the best hand crack at Smith and deserves to get climbed with much more regularity. This thing feels more like climbing granite than climbing tuff. +1 that the rock in the last 10' is of poorer quality, but it would probably clean up if it got traffic...


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Hardly Wallbanger (5.10c)
By: Max Tepfer When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Didn't really think this route was all that it's cracked up to be. Sharp and kind of loose. Definitely a lot of steep, juggy climbing, but the whole gorge is full of steep, juggy climbing.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : Der Sportsman (5.11+) : Photo
By: Max Tepfer When: Jan 30, 2014

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Comments: I can't speak for the people who placed the bolts, (I assume Brooke, but am not really sure...) but I was psyched to clip them. They're right when you're most pumped and, while there are definitely good gear placements there, they're small, specific, and difficult to see and/or place from the lie-back that you end up in. This would be a proud on-sight skipping the bolts.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monument Area : The Monument : Abraxas (5.12-)
By: Max Tepfer When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Note: The FFA info in the Watt's guide is vague and only given for distinct pitches. It's unclear exactly who freed the line in its entirety first, but I suspect it was Thomas Emde. (credited w/P3 in 2001) The crux was freed in in 1975 by Wayne Arrington and Ken Currens. Lastly, I gave it 3 stars largely due to its position, history, reputation and the Tombstone Crack. I'm sure many (my partners included) will find it far less appealing and have no interest in ever repeating it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9)
By: Max Tepfer When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: One #4 is plenty w/bumping. Plenty of #3 placements on the 1st half of the OW. P1 and P2 link nicely as do P3 and P4.


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