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Rock Climbing Photo: Running it out on easy slab. "No where is tha...


Member Since: Jun 2, 2006
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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mattm
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Point Rank: # 554
Total Points: 1,368
Last Year: 135
Last 30 Days: 10
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1072 | Routes 37 | Areas 7 | Photos 175 | Page Improvements | Comments 18 | Posts 740 | Stars 82 | Ratings 13

Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Hartford (5.8)
By: mattm When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: P1 - Climb the Slab with one bolt up and just left of the tree. Clip a bolt above the overlap and pull onto the face above. Honestly, which bolts above belong to DD and which are Hartfords are a bit murky. I move up and right heading towards the double bolt anchor in Beer Can Alley clipping what ever feels right. ~28m

P2 - From the anchors, walk up and right on the large flake. Pull off the flake onto the face above clipping the 1st bolt on P2. (Those uncomfortable with the move might want... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Carpet Crawl (5.10a R)
By: mattm When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: The Above Beta is NOT CORRECT. Beta from the O'Grady Book or DDM for the Backside needs to be taken with a grain of salt as neither is up to date or often all that accurate. The Photo Topo's of the backside pasted in MtnProj (colored lines) are the best right now.

Carpet Crawl is the first route you encounter after dropping down off the "Ripple Ledge". Locate the first bolt near where the overlap peters out under the overhanging tree branches. Climb up to the first bolt and make interesting... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Ambulance Blues (5.10b R)
By: mattm When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Locate the 1st Bolt for Ambulance Blues about 25' above where the overlap comes closest to the ground. It's above a natural "dish" as the DDM states.

Pull over the overlap near the "point" and continue up to the 1st bolt. Continue up and left past two more bolts at decent stances. Be mindful of rope slack as the ground slopes up with you and a poor belay could put you in ground fall territory. From the 3rd bolt, continue up and left to the 2nd bolt on Ripple. Finish for Ripple. ~45m

It's a ... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Intensive Care (5.10b X)
By: mattm When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: The Above Beta is NOT CORRECT. Beta from the O'Grady Book or DDM for the Backside needs to be taken with a grain of salt as neither is up to date or often all that accurate. The Photo Topo's of the backside pasted in MtnProj (colored lines) are the best right now.

Intensive Care has seen a retro since the books were published.

Locate the 1st Bolt for Ambulance Blues about 25' above where the overlap comes closest to the ground. It's above a natural "dish" as the DDM states. Pull over the ... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : The Kracken (5.8)
By: mattm When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: A 70m rope will get you from P2 anchors to belay ledge on P1 (BARELY) however it's bit short to get you to the ground. If you're ok with rapping off the ends and down climbing the last bit a 70m can work but be aware you need to watch your ends!!!


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Freshman Mountain : Mirage (5.9+ PG13)
By: mattm When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Gear is Good on this if a bit finicky to place in the middle (crack opens up inside so you need to be mindful of your cams opening up). Wide Gear up top (#4s)


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Freshman Mountain : I Dropped The Ayatollah (5.10 PG13)
By: mattm When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: One of the better climbs I've done at E-Rock. More thought provoking that straight up jamming with a mixture of moves. Climbs longer than it looks thanks to the traversing nature. Thumb Up!

- NO WAY this thing is PG13. G route for sure. Diagonal crack eats up gear. Above the "pod" you can can a cam in behind the flake. Might not be great but I was ok with it. A bomber .75 cam and nut can be found above the pod that protects the top moves. Up top, I found #1 and #2 camalot p... more >>


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : MD 20/20 (5.9 R)
By: mattm When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: Agree with the comments on TJ Swan. 20/20 is not more difficult than TJ. 5.8. You can get gear in below the headwall but it's pretty straightforward to reach up and clip the bolt above the bulge. A bit spicy moving to the next bolt so a heads up belay to keep you off the slab below would be nice. Didn't feel R to me - more PG13


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Stranger Than Friction (5.10b PG13)
By: mattm When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Rather than head up and right after the 6th bolt, I continue up and left. There's an obvious arching flake that takes you up and right towards the mid-anchor. You can get good pro in along here.(#2 C4 and .5 C4) Just feels like the natural line to me.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Devil's Slide : Knuckle Duster (5.9)
By: mattm When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: A Great route well worth a visit. The slab climbing up high is reminiscent of Tuolumne and makes you wish it went on for another 100'!

From the Anchors it's 40m down to the ledge directly below. Scramble down off the ledge (climbers left) to get back to the base area below MOTB.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Ripple (5.9+)
By: mattm When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: Good Route - Fun, delicate moves. Just the right amount of pro (gear/bolts) to make this feel "real" but not run out. A good intro into harder face/slab climbs without being a horror show. Get on it!

Not sure this deserves the "5.9+" rating. 9+ is kind of a "special" grade reserved for old school climbs that are more than likely a sandbag. It's 5.9

There a TWO sets of anchors available at the top. A set to the left with QLs on it and a set of Fixe Ring Anchors up higher and right (above ... more >>


Location: TX : Medicine Wall : Metro Wall : Honeycomb (5.10c)
By: mattm When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: Man - I'd really like to know what's wrong or awkward with those clips. Look a-ok to me.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary : Becky's Crack (5.9 PG13)
By: mattm When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: There's NO WAY this is PG-13. PG MAYBE, if you don't have a #5 but it's not PG13 by a long shot.


Location: CO : New South Platte Guidebook ...
By: mattm When: May 1, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know if pre-orders have shipped yet? Come on USPS!


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall : Eight Flake (5.8)
By: mattm When: Feb 7, 2012

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Comments: Flake Faces Left...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Chili Dog (5.10a)
By: mattm When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Pretty sure this climbs nearly the same line as Hot Fudge if not the EXACT same line as Hot Fudge. All three guidebooks show Hot Fudge more on the right side of the wall.


Location: CO : New Poudre Canyon Routes Gu...
By: mattm When: Feb 12, 2010

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Comments: Looks Great. 2nd the idea of making an Hard Copy Version. I'd buy one even though I don't live in the state. I like to support quality quidebook authors when I can.

If a print version isn't in the future - has anyone looked into something like using an online publishing site? Obviously Copyright holders need to ok this.

Hence the reason I want to throw money their way first.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Dream Symphony (5.11b)
By: mattm When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: I did this when there were old bolts. Latest report I've heard is that these have all be replaced with new stainless gear. Still runout though!



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