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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (05) The Transition Zone : Have Slab Will Travel (5.10c)
By: Matthias Lang When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You mean: Awesome and technical. I really enjoyed this route, but hated Pocket Princess.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Code of the West (5.11d)
By: Matthias Lang When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: TR'd this (to the Cowboy up anchors), too see whether a lead attempt would be reasonable for me. Not so. While I think the 11d is spot on, the climb was much more sustained then I thought. There is pretty much no crack technique required (excluding the last part to the actual anchors of the route) and I agree with Daniel that it feels like a harder version of Cowboy up. I found it so sustained that I think I would not have been able to place a single piece after the first bolt. I even had a very... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Left Twin Crack (aka Manic ... (5.11)
By: Matthias Lang When: Nov 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went left to the Banshees anchor, hope I didn't miss any of the good climbing.
Awesome route!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Autumn Ivy (5.12-)
By: Matthias Lang When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route. Very technical cruxes with great shake-out holds and gear in between.
Thought the first crux comes before the bolt, just under the almost-no-hands rest.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall
By: Matthias Lang When: Oct 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For reference. If you extend the rap tree anchor with a cordalette for about 6 feet, ONE 70 meter rope should JUST get you on top of the boulder that is the start of Wiretap. I tried this with ONE half rope, which might have a little more stretch, so be careful!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Wiretap (5.10c PG13)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: TR'd it today. Have to say the pro at the upper crux is better than I remembered. And Mick is right, big pro won't fit high up where it's hard, but there is a great spot a little lower for a #5 c4, where nothing else will work.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Techweenie (5.11+)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route. Found an offset brass nut pretty helpful to mediate the semi-runout after the second bolt.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Beastie Alley : Unnatural Attraction (5.10b)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting stemming at the start. I is probably a good idea to place some pro at the end for your second, since the anchor is a bit far to the left.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Beastie Alley : Unnamed (5.11a)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun bouldery start to exciting delicate finish. Nice route!
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Beastie Alley : Pony Express (5.9)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: While most TP routes involve some slab climbing, this is the only 'pure' slab I tried here, and therefore pretty interesting, with a well protected slabby crux right after the third bolt.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Serpent Face (5.10c PG13)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to second Bowe's question. Both guidebooks show the second bolt directly above the first one, which is clearly not the case. To reach this bolt you probably would NOT traverse right in the horizontal below, but this seems a bit contrived since it is clearly easier to go right at this point.
I also didn't feel that the protection was worse that other comparable TP routes (But then again I might not have been 'on route', skipping the second bolt and the last, while doing the direct finish t... more >>
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Fiyo (5.11+)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know of course that you are right and since this is a fairly new area it doesn't make much sense to use old standards, but I actually did find the bouldery crux 2/3 up and the beginning of FIYO a little harder than any FM moves, averaging things to the same grade (for me). But then again, I also suck at bouldering...
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Open Books (5.10a)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was a bit sketched out when I saw that pin. A #1 or #2 C4 in a flared pod below will back it up, but I could not find any other decent gear at that spot plus your last piece will be likely 20 feet below you at this point.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Fiyo (5.11+)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found the crux moves to be 2/3 up and not any easier than the crux moves of Family Man. Because it is not as sustained as Family Man, I guess most people would agree that this route is easier, but since we use the YDS I gave it the same grade.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Nicole's Corner (5.10a)
By: Matthias Lang When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route but I have a couple of notes:
Thought the end was the crux and not the beginning.
In the middle section I found the position of the bolts a bit odd, meaning that hard moves came right before the bolts. Once clipped, an easier section followed. Therefore I think 5.9 leaders, that think about skipping the start, would probably not feel comfortable on this route.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Wiretap (5.10c PG13)
By: Matthias Lang When: Aug 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn, you're right! For some reason I always read Wiretrap in the guide book. Thanks.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Wiretap (5.10c PG13)
By: Matthias Lang When: Aug 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was pretty scary for me. Did not bring along anything bigger that a #3 and remember cursing at least at two spots where a bigger cam would have fit into the grove. Next time i bring along 2 #4 and 1 #5 and figure out on rappel which ones to use. But I do think even with the bigger pieces this deserves a PG13 rating. Besides the mental part I also found it technically harder than Skinwalker, but not quite as good.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Tombstone : West Face Direct (5.8)
By: Matthias Lang When: Jul 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the Schein variation way fun. The roofs look intimidating but trust the rating, going through the roof is really not that hard. Thought is was one of the coolest sections of 5.8 in the sandias. Unfortunately the awesome part is fairly short. The same holds for the sweet chickenheads on the first pitch.
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Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: Matthias Lang When: Jun 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went to Eagle Canyon this weekend. Coming from the south I thought the road was in good condition (took the road only once before). I've never been to Eagle Canyon before the fire so I can't compare how it was before the fire, but now that all the green is gone from the trees the climbs wont get shade anymore till late afternoon (guess around 3). I did only one climb (old wave) and it was not enjoyable. All pockets were filled with sand/dirt and the whole crag seemed to be coverd i... more >>
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