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Rock Climbing Photo: Peaking around the corner to line up the final mov...


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 42
Total Points: 8,575
Last Year: 505
Last 30 Days: 3
50 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 4348 | Routes 306 | Areas 49 | Photos 706 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 1247 | Posts 504 | Stars 967 | Ratings 568
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : WM: Waterville Valley : Smarts Brook Area : After Work Boulders : Cool But Contrived (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: So the crack to the right is off?


Location: NH : WM: Waterville Valley : Smarts Brook Area : After Work Boulders
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: Jay I believe the trail you are talking about is called, The Pine Flats Trail, looking forward to heading out here


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : Cilley Old Man (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: When I climbed it I felt it was a pretty natural line, start on the starting holds for Cilley Groove and climb the face between that and Cilley Flakes. I used the ramp for Cilley Groove for feet when topping out because it felt natural that way, and there is no point where you would want to go any further left...


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: I used my right hand where the left hand in the photo and my left hand lower on a decent side pull. This makes the move longer but off of a better hold


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: My right hand in the photo is on the hold described as the starting hold and shown in the other photos, I elected to use my left hand on a lower side pull, it is a better hold but it makes the move longer.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Zoo : Let's Call It "levitation" (V6+)
By: matthewWallace When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: I believe this route is normally called Globe


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : Cilley Old Man (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Where is the fun in that jay ;)

For me, the top out does not seem that difficult, someone has cleaned the top a bit and there are a couple good crimps up there that make the top seem fairly casual, with the meat of the climbing on the setup toss to the crystally ball at the lip. Hopefully more people climb it so we can get a good consensus!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : Cilley Old Man (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: This route is really cool, I do not think it is a V7 though. For me it is easier then Child Prodigy V6+ and Metallic V7 and in the same range as Spragausarus V5+. So I gave the grade V5+. It would be awesome for more people to climb it and get a better consensus grade. It is a very worthy route.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : Tradster (V0+)
By: matthewWallace When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: I gave this route 3 stars, in it current condition it might be more like 2.5 stars. However, with a clean top it will get the full 3 stars, really good climbing.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Stone Wall Boulder : Wicked Traverse (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: Anyone else think this thing might be more like v5?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : Red Right Hand aka Spitting... (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: I echo the sentiments of everyone else, this problem is an area classic! Cool thoughtful and core engaging climbing leads up to a pure power move to the lip, one of the most satisfying climbs I have done! As Mike said, CLIMB THIS!!!


Location: NH : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Sorry it means Deep Water Solo.


Location: NH : WM: Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : The White House (V11)
By: matthewWallace When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: What an impressive line, seeing it in person is even more impressive, might be one of the purest and most proud lines in New England!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Beginner's Route (5.5)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: Did another lap on this today, really hard to beat this climb, flows well, good gear. Pretty perfect


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Headstone Boulder
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Looks like the tops of these boulder problems have been partially cleaned, a big thank you to whoever took the time to clean it up and for picking up my slack since I never went back and finished cleaning them! Thank You!!


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : 45 Area : Scarlet Lady (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Did it climb straight up the arete or more to the left side?


Location: NH : *Rumney
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Seasonal Peregrine closures in effect for Summit Cliff, Flea Surgeon, Northwest Passage (edit - the route not the area with the same name) and the Asylum. MAIN CLIFF IS OPEN


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Out of curiosity I hiked up here this morning and it looks like the reported rock fall was somebody trundling some rock to the left of B-b-buttress setting up a new route following a large flake and up a crack through the headwall above.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Governor Stable : Pyramid Area : Casanova (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: The flake is now gone and is supposedly an open project now, get after it


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Black Lung (5.8)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 27, 2014

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Comments: I have climbed this route a couple times and never had a #4 with me, use care and protect in the obvious stances and you will be good to go


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Upper Matrix : Needle to the Vein (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: I do not think using the starting hand on the right arete makes this a v2 or v3, that is quite a sandbag. This rig feels harder than Fabulous and Bodysnap stand which are both solid v4's. This problem is stout, it is only two hard moves but catching that small crimp is not a v3 move. I would say this is still v5 maybe a soft v5, but no way is it v2 or v3.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Prow Area : Serenity Crack (V0)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: It should be mentioned that the big flake at the top out to the right is loose. This is a giant hold on a microwave sized piece of loose rock, care should be taken when topping out this classic and make sure the people at the base are alert as well. This is one of the best v0's anywhere.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : 45 Area : Triangle (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 26, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Tim, there is no way this thing is v1 as someone suggested, this is stout in the v3 range.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Colflesh Area : Posion Ivy (V0)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: This feels much harder than v0, very very good climb though


Location: PA : South Central PA : Governor Stable : Pyramid Area : Cassablanca (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: The starting flake has broken off making the start very awkward and powerful...


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