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Cool movement on this line


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 44
Total Points: 8,121
Last Year: 542
Last 30 Days: 19
50 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 4122 | Routes 292 | Areas 49 | Photos 654 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 1193 | Posts 496 | Stars 910 | Ratings 527
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Fisher Block : Nala (V0)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: It is actuallt in my list of things to do, Im planning on a day of cleaning/re-cleaning routes ou in Blackjack, there are many that need the love, just gotta decide when I want to sacrifice a day of climbing for cleaning...


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : Pair of Kings (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: No need to apologize, its just because it as on an iphone...


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : First Impressions (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Im going to say it is the classic grade of v3/v5 :)


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: This is the Bermuda Triangle Boulder, it is 20 feet left and uphill from Smear Tactics.

We cleaned these three lines and climbed two of them, but we named all three lines. The names give in the photo are the three names we would like to use.

This is why. The story is that the USS Cyclops is the largest single loss event for the Navy in history. She and her 309 crew disappeared without a trace in the Bermuda Triangle in March of 1918. In 1941 her sister ships the USS Nereus and USS Proteus bo... more >>


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : USS Nereus (V0)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: I really posted this route to make mention of the HARD sit start project to this route. it starts with good hands and makes really hard pull on little knobs to get established on the face. (See photo's). This sit start will be a great hard line and will get a few more stars. Have at it!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: You are correct it is a dead vertical wall :)


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : First Impressions (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: I am excited to climb this one! It looks awesome!


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Arch Nemesis (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: I wouldn't say it was hot but it certainly wasn't the best conditions. We thought it might fall into the mid v5 range, but who know we might have missed something too...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Return of The Blot (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Not a problem at all! I am glad you get to use the information!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Behind Zig Zag Boulder : Welcome To Heartbreak (V3-4)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: Tim, you are a sandbagger on this one!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: This photo is wonderful! Love the smile!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: This photo captures exactly how this move feels! Tough!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Moat Boulder : The Fat Of The Land (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Good work my friend, I look forward to giving this thing some goes!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : Punch to the Face (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: I very much approve this name. I laughed almost as hard as when you broke that hold and punched yourself in the face...


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : The Steepness (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: Powerful and technical, looking forward to the send of this cool little problem!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : AKA Crack (V0)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: This is a worthy climb and a good warm up. The sit start is good and the topout is easy. Should see more ascents but it is overshadowed but the classic on either side of it.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : The Handyman (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: There seems to be a real hard project, that would be a direct start to this route. We scrubbed it and put a couple tries in before realizing the grade will probable settle in the double digits, somewhere from v10+ to v12-, would be the guess.

It starts on two good crimps and make a long move to a terrible slopey gaston which you would match and toss to the lip. If you have strong tendons and an even stronger core give it a shot.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : Double Heelix (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: This route is beautiful. A wide variety of holds and techniques will be used to send this great line. A must climb for the area.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : Corridor Crack (V0 PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Hey Jay, any info on the FA of this rig?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Birth of the Blot (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Hey Mike, i see you have been working on this some. What do you think the grade is going to settle at? No that I have tried this numerous times I think it will be harder than v4. What you thinking? Have you sent yet? Which beta are you trying lately?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : EDCL Boulder : Sherman's March (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Mike, I just updated the my grade to v5, that is the grade I originally thought it was but wasnt sure after sending Thanks for the input!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : Widowmaker (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: This is a great boulder problem. I found the most natural way to climb it is start with the right hand on the pinch and the left hand on the left arete instead of the pinch.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Underdog (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this one again today, I think I enjoy it more everytime I get on it. Still feels solid v4 to me... What are you guys doing to make this thing feel easy? Just gotta get stronger I guess...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Captain Condor (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Finally sent this thing today after many years of on and off, sporadic attempts. For a long time I tried the left knee scum beta, I always felt close this way but could never get it to work. Today I tried a heel hook out right and moving up with the right hand instead of left and sent it in a handful of goes... Lesson learned don't lock yourself into specific beta, keep an open mind :)

Also, I always thought this was going to feel way harder then v5 when I sent, however, now I agree with that g... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Fisher Block : From 'Down-Unda' (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Christian, after climbing this yesterday, I agree with you that v5 is an inflated grade for the route. I changed the grade to v4 to keep it at the true consensus. Overall it is not a bad route, I just wish the block was not there on the left and it would climb more naturally.


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