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Cool movement on this line


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace


Point Rank: # 43
Total Points: 7,728
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 3879 | Routes 287 | Areas 49 | Photos 597 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 1135 | Posts 474 | Stars 849 | Ratings 487
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Looks good man!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: I the left hand photo the entire block left of the rope is gone ad the anchors that are clipped just below the climber is all gone


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10b X) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Both of the flakes bring used in the picture, the anchors and everything right have exfoliated.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands
By: matthewWallace When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: I hiked up today and checked out the carnage. Jolts anchors and the entire upper flake have exfoliated. Dolt may have lost some rock on the arete side but the anchors are still there.

I would not suggest climbing on either side of the fin, I probably will never climb on or below it again. As more and more rock falls from the fin, it is becoming thinner and thinner, just does not seem safe to me.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands
By: matthewWallace When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: Mark, do you think this could impact the integrity of the entire fin? Should people avoid Jolt until it can be examined?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : EDCL Boulder : Sherman's March (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for you input Mike! I think someone told me v6 once too, there is no way it is that hard though... I think this is a cool little route.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Return of The Blot (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: I will post "The Thwart" sometime today.

Climbing and documenting boulders at Rumney has become a weird interest all of its own to me. Not many people use the info, glad you do!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Return of The Blot (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: Christian, I did mean the one about 6 feet off the ground, it more of a large sidepull than a flake, not sure why I wrote four. I have fixed it, sorry for the confusion.

As for the Thwart, the only thing that makes sense to me is the arrow in the guidebook is wrong and it is actually supposed to be the v3 variation discussed above. But that is strictly a guess...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Blot (V2+)
By: matthewWallace When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: I agree, I have always used the lip of the corner and it has always felt right about v2+, even using the lip. I would say just climb it naturally.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : The Thanksgiver (V5-6 R)
By: matthewWallace When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: This problem is close to perfect, it would be a classic anywhere. The landing is sketchy but with a few pads and a couple good spotters it can be made very safe. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. If you climb here, and you should, climb this route!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Discovery Valley : ... : AA (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: AA stands for both Awkward Arete and Awesome Arete!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: Couldn't agree with you more!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: While I do agree with you Mark that they have every right to be there. I also think they should have used better discretion when picking the route. Using the first pitch of one of the most popular climbs at Cathedral for their lesson probably wasn't the best choice. Could you imagine the outrage at Rumney if a rappelling lesson was taught on Underdog on a weekend?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Randy Moss (V5-6)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: This route has changed since the description was written, the sharks tooth hold is no longer there, one of the start crimps broke leaving the start different and the foot Garrett mentions above. So here is a newer updated description to go along with the one above:

Sit start with the two crimps and move up to the next good crimp with your left, from there traverse out right using the slopers and the gaston crimp to reach a big positive sloper 2/3's up the arete. Now here is the crux, get your f... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: If it is the one I think you are referring to it is called Ginseng for Genius. Listed as a V8 in the Kemple guide, it starts on a decent chip for the left and and a sloper crimp for your right, and tosses up to the quartz hold, then top out? The problem has a rock at the start which makes getting to the sit start a little weird?

If this is the route you are talking about, the stand start (from the quartz pocket) and moving to the lip is listed as Pound for Pound. Which is also the wrong name, [[... more >>


Location: NH : White's Ledge : Endeavour (5.7+) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: I would highly recommend this route you should climb it for sure! It is an area classic!


Location: NH : White's Ledge : Endeavour (5.7+)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: After climbing this route today I have a couple thoughts. First I would highly recommend running (guidebook) pitches 1 + 2 together. Secondly I think that the rap stations could use some bolts, the trees are starting to look a little suspect. One the 3rd (guidebook) pitch stay truer to the arete and have some wild exposure and fun steep moves. I highly recommend this climb to everyone with good route finding skills, so much fun. Also bring 2 ropes and rappel at the end of the cracked slab (P5), ... more >>


Location: NH : White's Ledge : Endeavor Variation (5.9+)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: I was looking at the guidebook and I believe this is actually called "Something Different"


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : No Need to Be Gripped (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: Brendan, when I first climbed No Sweat I didn't know the proper name so I called it Imperial Action, once I learned the proper name I changed it to No Sweat, the actual name :) Sorry for the confusion.


Location: NH : Rumney : Hail Vader
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: Hey guys could you take the Grade V rating off of these climbs? I for some reason don't foresee these climb ever requiring an multiple day effort ;)

Thanks for cleaning these up, looks like a good place to bring new climbers or little kids. Please no bolts though. There are a lot of little craglets around the mountain side like this that could yield some routes as long as they are done like this. Cleaned well, and no bolts.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Bonnie and Clyde (5.8+)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: I am with Lee on this, 5.8 seems about right. I would be willing to call it 5.8+ but it is not as hard as Yoda or any other 5.9's in the area. Fun climb though for sure!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : EDCL Boulder : Sherman's March (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: I am not sure what the grade to this is. I think it is somewhere between hard 4 and easy 5, it has felt really hard in the past when working it but I sent yesterday and it felt easier. Someone do it and chime in!


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Only a Crow (5.10c)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: he first few time I got on it, it felt impossible to me too! Once you figure out the beta it feels right in the .10b/c range. That being said I have not climbed it this year so something could have broken on it this winter.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Monsters From the Id Boulde... : Los Pollos Hermanos (V3-4)
By: matthewWallace When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Thanks! I am glad you understand the reference! I just watched all the seasons on netflix in the last three weeks so it is an obsession of mine now. Please do climb it and see what you think, I believe it is a really fun climb!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : Knock Your Block Off (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Lee!!!


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