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Rock Climbing Photo: Figuring out the beta on The Alchemist


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 39
Total Points: 8,993
Last Year: 911
Last 30 Days: 162
52 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 4476 | Routes 319 | Areas 53 | Photos 745 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 1272 | Posts 507 | Stars 994 | Ratings 582
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Smiley Area : The Outlier (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Thanks updated!


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : 45 Area : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Hey Tim, I believe it is called Char's Flame and went at v11, however I think it has broken since. I Think it starts on the single crimp rail above head height. The crimp can vaguely be seen in the photo a bit to the left of the green line.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Colflesh Area : Sur La Pointe (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 13, 2014

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Comments: We actually found it this last trip, if you walk downhill from Coleflesh, there is a fait trail that will lead you right to it. This trail will pass another boulder (The Nectar Boulder) on your left before winding right and back left and bringing you right to this line.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : The Matrix Area : Spring Chicken (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: I was looking at this a couple days ago while I was down in PA, its on the short list for my next trip to Gretna!!! Looks stellar!


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Hang Ten Boulder : Hang Ten (V2-3 PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: This should be move to the newly constructed 'Hang Ten Area'. Could an Admin please move it?


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Bookend Boulder : Left Bookend (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: A great climb, a very solid v3. Climb this route!


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Shamoo Area : Balance or Power (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: I second what Tim said. If you walk straight uphill from 'Shamoo" you will never find this problem. Go left and a bit up until you see the obvious stick shelter and this is just uphill, you will be able to see it from the shelter.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Otherlands : The Roof : Mad Max (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: This is a classic line. It has a little bit of everything, seek this climb out!


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Otherlands : Rollercoaster : The Shadow Gallery (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: If you can great past the spooky fall, a brilliant climb awaits you!


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : Otherlands : Rollercoaster : Crimptonite (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: This is a great line, highly recommended!


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Is there a guidebook in print for Gretna?


Location: PA : South Central PA : Mount Gretna : 45 Area : Exhibit A (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: What is the line that starts on the two crimps above head height to the left of this?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Pinnacle & Forgotten Boulde... : Freezing Point Depression (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: Where does it actually start? That seems like the most logical place for it to start, isn't that the starting rail that all these routes use as a common start?

From the description posted it seems like Mike and I just started matched on the starting right hand start hold and moved into a hold a few moves later on, eliminating a few unnecessary moves to get into the crux and meat of the climb.

My buddy did it the same way the description says and is isn't very different then the way mike and... more >>


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Conditions Boulder : Gopher War (V2-3)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: Similar to General Lee, with less moves and a lot less classic...


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Conditions Boulder : Estrella (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun but short climb, when it gets cleaned up it will surely see some more traffic by people who venture up to The Conditions Boulder!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Conditions Boulder : Automated (V7-8)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: So just so I have it correct you start both hands matched on the chalked flake about a foot left of the tree?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : The Font Boulder : The Font Problem (V9)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: I heard that someone figured out beta that makes this much easier than v9, anyone hear anything about this?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Conditions Boulder : Automated (V7-8)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Where does this problem start? Looked at it today and couldnt figure it out.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Pinnacle & Forgotten Boulde... : Freezing Point Depression (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: This is a very high quality boulder problem! Fun engaging moves on a variety of holds make a great line!

Mike Thompson thank you for making a video with excellent beta, with your beta I was able to flash this line, Thanks!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Crack Boulder Area : Bake Sale (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: I think this is the most sandbagged climb at Pway, if we were all honest with ourselves we would probably call it a v5, maybe harder. I would highly recommend this climb, great climb!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Swamp Boulders : Methods of Escape (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: In the newest version of Bryce's book this is called 'Methods of Escape". This is a cool little line, I tried it at the end of the day a few weeks back. looking forward to going back to it. The Chasm Boulder sure does have some awesome lines!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Rainforest Boulder (Valley ... : Rubber Cement (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: I really enjoyed this fun arete, great climbing!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Boulders Below The Main...
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 23, 2014

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Comments: Mark I am all for changing it, I agree something more inviting sounds like a good idea. Parking Lot Boulders or something along that line will probably be best. I leave it up to you.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Arugula, Arugula (5.10a)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: This is without a doubt as hard as Far From Feral whether they are .9+ or .10a is really splitting hairs, I think for both it depends if you get the sequence right. I believe this has better climbing than FFF. Both are nice routes and sure to be crowd pleasers for years to come.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The Maltese Falcon (5.8)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: Not a bad climb, just nothing overall memorable about it. Still a worth addition.


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