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Cool movement on this line


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace


Point Rank: # 43
Total Points: 7,719
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 3848 | Routes 287 | Areas 49 | Photos 596 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 1131 | Posts 472 | Stars 835 | Ratings 477
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : The Steepness (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: Powerful and technical, looking forward to the send of this cool little problem!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : AKA Crack (V0)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: This is a worthy climb and a good warm up. The sit start is good and the topout is easy. Should see more ascents but it is overshadowed but the classic on either side of it.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : The Handyman (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: There seems to be a real hard project, that would be a direct start to this route. We scrubbed it and put a couple tries in before realizing the grade will probable settle in the double digits, somewhere from v10+ to v12-, would be the guess.

It starts on two good crimps and make a long move to a terrible slopey gaston which you would match and toss to the lip. If you have strong tendons and an even stronger core give it a shot.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : Double Heelix (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: This route is beautiful. A wide variety of holds and techniques will be used to send this great line. A must climb for the area.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : Corridor Crack (V0 PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Hey Jay, any info on the FA of this rig?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Birth of the Blot (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Hey Mike, i see you have been working on this some. What do you think the grade is going to settle at? No that I have tried this numerous times I think it will be harder than v4. What you thinking? Have you sent yet? Which beta are you trying lately?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : EDCL Boulder : Sherman's March (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Mike, I just updated the my grade to v5, that is the grade I originally thought it was but wasnt sure after sending Thanks for the input!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : Widowmaker (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: This is a great boulder problem. I found the most natural way to climb it is start with the right hand on the pinch and the left hand on the left arete instead of the pinch.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Underdog (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this one again today, I think I enjoy it more everytime I get on it. Still feels solid v4 to me... What are you guys doing to make this thing feel easy? Just gotta get stronger I guess...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Captain Condor (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Finally sent this thing today after many years of on and off, sporadic attempts. For a long time I tried the left knee scum beta, I always felt close this way but could never get it to work. Today I tried a heel hook out right and moving up with the right hand instead of left and sent it in a handful of goes... Lesson learned don't lock yourself into specific beta, keep an open mind :)

Also, I always thought this was going to feel way harder then v5 when I sent, however, now I agree with that g... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Fisher Block : From 'Down-Unda' (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Christian, after climbing this yesterday, I agree with you that v5 is an inflated grade for the route. I changed the grade to v4 to keep it at the true consensus. Overall it is not a bad route, I just wish the block was not there on the left and it would climb more naturally.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Flower Child (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, when I was on the ground I stuck my right foot way out to the right and toe hooked on a little horn around the corner, makes the first move static and not at all desperate.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : The Crimp Problem SDS (V5-)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: I don't mean to be argumentative, and although I do agree this route never comes to the v6 range. The consensus seems to be it is in the v5 range from the grades suggested by people of this site. Maybe we should make the listing grade more in line with the consensus of the masses?

Since I'm the original poster, I am going to change my suggested grade to v5-, because thats what I feel it is. I originally put v5-6 as the grade because that is what it has been listed as in other places.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Cliff Boulders : Chuckie's Torture (V9)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: Yes Sir, it was my first v8, Thanks! This route is a pretty amazing line!


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Cliff Boulders : Chuckie's Torture (V9)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this route today and I think it is a very high quality route. I think the most logical and least contrived way to climb it is, start standing on the underlings and use both the creaky flake and the foot on the start hold of jugs, the line has nice flow and feel natural in this manner.

Regardless it is an awesome climb.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Arch Nemesis (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: Myself and a couple friends climbed this route today and we having a discussion on the grade. Does anyone else feel this might be tougher than v4+?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Skip and Sandy Boulder : Deacon Variation (V7)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Hey guys I changed my suggested grade to v7. After thinking about other v6's in the area (Smoke and Mirrors, Knock Your Block Off, etc.) I agree this rig is significantly harder than those.

I have a hard time suggesting grades when I climb something that I little to no prior knowledge of. I always shy towards sandbagging because to me it is better to have under graded problems than inflated problems. I like when the consensus develops though and we can get a settled grade.

You guys should go ... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : John's Problem (V4-)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: This is really a pretty cool little boulder problem. Very powerful. I think it is a solid v4 because it is significantly harder than, Bring the Ruckus, Cause for Commotion, Crimp Stand and Hobbit Hole, all of which are solid v3's.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Flower Child (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 27, 2013

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Comments: So I got back on this rig today and was able to send it. I used different beta (thanks for finding it Lee) then what is described above. I toe-hooked out right and tossed up to the slopers with my right hand before going to the bad triangle hold with my left. Felt right around v5 for me this way. Has anyone else tried this beta?


Location: NH : Artist's Bluff : Standard Route (5.5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Chris, there is nothing awe inspiring in that section, a few options for small nuts and small cams but the best protection for that part is to keep a cool head and punch it for the horizontal. I do remember however, getting a piece out left a foot or two before the horizontal that would have held.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Sea of Holes (5.7)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: Great route, I would say however that the thin strip between the moss just before the tree is very overgrown and sketchy, it might be time for a quick brushing...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Looks good man!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: I the left hand photo the entire block left of the rope is gone ad the anchors that are clipped just below the climber is all gone


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10b X) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Both of the flakes bring used in the picture, the anchors and everything right have exfoliated.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands
By: matthewWallace When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: I hiked up today and checked out the carnage. Jolts anchors and the entire upper flake have exfoliated. Dolt may have lost some rock on the arete side but the anchors are still there.

I would not suggest climbing on either side of the fin, I probably will never climb on or below it again. As more and more rock falls from the fin, it is becoming thinner and thinner, just does not seem safe to me.


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