Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact matthewWallace


Point Rank: # 43
Total Points: 7,602
Last Year: 570
Last 30 Days: 24
41 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 3806 | Routes 285 | Areas 48 | Photos 582 | Page Improvments | Comments 1122 | Posts 472 | Stars 827 | Ratings 470
Page 5 of 45.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Captain Condor (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Finally sent this thing today after many years of on and off, sporadic attempts. For a long time I tried the left knee scum beta, I always felt close this way but could never get it to work. Today I tried a heel hook out right and moving up with the right hand instead of left and sent it in a handful of goes... Lesson learned don't lock yourself into specific beta, keep an open mind :)

Also, I always thought this was going to feel way harder then v5 when I sent, however, now I agree with that g... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Fisher Block : From 'Down-Unda' (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Christian, after climbing this yesterday, I agree with you that v5 is an inflated grade for the route. I changed the grade to v4 to keep it at the true consensus. Overall it is not a bad route, I just wish the block was not there on the left and it would climb more naturally.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Flower Child (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, when I was on the ground I stuck my right foot way out to the right and toe hooked on a little horn around the corner, makes the first move static and not at all desperate.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : The Crimp Problem SDS (V5-)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I don't mean to be argumentative, and although I do agree this route never comes to the v6 range. The consensus seems to be it is in the v5 range from the grades suggested by people of this site. Maybe we should make the listing grade more in line with the consensus of the masses?

Since I'm the original poster, I am going to change my suggested grade to v5-, because thats what I feel it is. I originally put v5-6 as the grade because that is what it has been listed as in other places.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Cliff Boulders : Chuckie's Torture (V9)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 26, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yes Sir, it was my first v8, Thanks! This route is a pretty amazing line!


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Cliff Boulders : Chuckie's Torture (V9)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this route today and I think it is a very high quality route. I think the most logical and least contrived way to climb it is, start standing on the underlings and use both the creaky flake and the foot on the start hold of jugs, the line has nice flow and feel natural in this manner.

Regardless it is an awesome climb.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Arch Nemesis (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Myself and a couple friends climbed this route today and we having a discussion on the grade. Does anyone else feel this might be tougher than v4+?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Skip and Sandy Boulder : Deacon Variation (V7)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Hey guys I changed my suggested grade to v7. After thinking about other v6's in the area (Smoke and Mirrors, Knock Your Block Off, etc.) I agree this rig is significantly harder than those.

I have a hard time suggesting grades when I climb something that I little to no prior knowledge of. I always shy towards sandbagging because to me it is better to have under graded problems than inflated problems. I like when the consensus develops though and we can get a settled grade.

You guys should go ... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : John's Problem (V4-)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is really a pretty cool little boulder problem. Very powerful. I think it is a solid v4 because it is significantly harder than, Bring the Ruckus, Cause for Commotion, Crimp Stand and Hobbit Hole, all of which are solid v3's.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Flower Child (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 27, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: So I got back on this rig today and was able to send it. I used different beta (thanks for finding it Lee) then what is described above. I toe-hooked out right and tossed up to the slopers with my right hand before going to the bad triangle hold with my left. Felt right around v5 for me this way. Has anyone else tried this beta?


Location: NH : Artist's Bluff : Standard Route (5.5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Chris, there is nothing awe inspiring in that section, a few options for small nuts and small cams but the best protection for that part is to keep a cool head and punch it for the horizontal. I do remember however, getting a piece out left a foot or two before the horizontal that would have held.


Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Sea of Holes (5.7)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, I would say however that the thin strip between the moss just before the tree is very overgrown and sketchy, it might be time for a quick brushing...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Looks good man!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I the left hand photo the entire block left of the rope is gone ad the anchors that are clipped just below the climber is all gone


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10b X) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Both of the flakes bring used in the picture, the anchors and everything right have exfoliated.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands
By: matthewWallace When: May 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I hiked up today and checked out the carnage. Jolts anchors and the entire upper flake have exfoliated. Dolt may have lost some rock on the arete side but the anchors are still there.

I would not suggest climbing on either side of the fin, I probably will never climb on or below it again. As more and more rock falls from the fin, it is becoming thinner and thinner, just does not seem safe to me.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands
By: matthewWallace When: May 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Mark, do you think this could impact the integrity of the entire fin? Should people avoid Jolt until it can be examined?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : EDCL Boulder : Sherman's March (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: May 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for you input Mike! I think someone told me v6 once too, there is no way it is that hard though... I think this is a cool little route.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Return of The Blot (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: May 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I will post "The Thwart" sometime today.

Climbing and documenting boulders at Rumney has become a weird interest all of its own to me. Not many people use the info, glad you do!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Return of The Blot (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: May 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Christian, I did mean the one about 6 feet off the ground, it more of a large sidepull than a flake, not sure why I wrote four. I have fixed it, sorry for the confusion.

As for the Thwart, the only thing that makes sense to me is the arrow in the guidebook is wrong and it is actually supposed to be the v3 variation discussed above. But that is strictly a guess...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Blot (V2+)
By: matthewWallace When: May 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I agree, I have always used the lip of the corner and it has always felt right about v2+, even using the lip. I would say just climb it naturally.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Central Davis : ... : The Thanksgiver (V5-6 R)
By: matthewWallace When: May 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This problem is close to perfect, it would be a classic anywhere. The landing is sketchy but with a few pads and a couple good spotters it can be made very safe. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. If you climb here, and you should, climb this route!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Discovery Valley : ... : AA (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: May 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: AA stands for both Awkward Arete and Awesome Arete!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Couldn't agree with you more!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: While I do agree with you Mark that they have every right to be there. I also think they should have used better discretion when picking the route. Using the first pitch of one of the most popular climbs at Cathedral for their lesson probably wasn't the best choice. Could you imagine the outrage at Rumney if a rappelling lesson was taught on Underdog on a weekend?


Page 5 of 45.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>