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Cool movement on this line


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact matthewWallace


Point Rank: # 42
Total Points: 8,081
Last Year: 789
Last 30 Days: 355
45 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 4048 | Routes 291 | Areas 49 | Photos 655 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 1158 | Posts 476 | Stars 900 | Ratings 518
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Welch and Dickie Boulders : Lower Bowl : ... : We Who Wander (V7)
By: matthewWallace When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: This problem should be a NH classic, if not a New England classic. Beautiful movement capped by a stopper mantle move that has tossed many strong climbers. A visually striking line that flows perfectly and should be climbed by all.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Method Area : Rio's Crack (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 30, 2013

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Comments: This is a pretty rad short boulder problem, if it lead to more climbing it would get more stars. A very worthy short line.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : Jeremy's Sick Crimps (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: Bryce, I like the idea of listing the heel-toe cam as the natural line, maybe name it General Lee Left or something along those lines. Then leave Jeremy's up with a better description, a historical explanation, and saying that it is an eliminate and point out the specific feet that are supposed to be used to make it v9.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : Jeremy's Sick Crimps (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I agree with Lanky, I have always thought that you should post the most natural version of the climb and mention any eliminates or variations in the description.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : Jeremy's Sick Crimps (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: The heel-toe came makes it v4, I can see with your feet directly below you how it could feel v9 though. Anybody think an Admin or OP should update the grade?


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Warmup Area : Damn the Man (aka Turkjiggi... (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I gave this a V7 after much thought. My reasoning is that I have tried this on the normal NH days and the crux has felt HARD to impossible. When I sent it, it was about 25 degrees with a wind chill in the low single digits and humidity around 10%, so it felt easier (felt like v6) because of the excellent friction, but this was a freaky dry day for NH. I think v7 is a more accurate grade for most conditions that NH throws at us.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Moat Boulder : Child Prodigy (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: I Finally sent this rig today! This route has taken me several years of trying to actually send. By far the longest I have worked on any particular boulder problem. It is an awesome route would be 4 stars if it didn't have to cut right into Firestarter.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Sally (V0)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: The sit start to this "Sally Sat Down" is a really good climb. Probably around v4, with two ways to do it, a dyno to the jug start of Sally or it can be done technically, I recommend the dyno :)


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Miracle Whip (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Is Cough Syrup the full traverse from Mayonnaise into Shell n' Dough?


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Cause for Commotion (V3) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Good work sir! That is a very enjoyable route!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the tip! I will try it next time I am out there.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: How right you are Kyle, that is exactly what happens everytime once I reach this point ;)


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Devil's Den Bouldering : The Hug (V5+)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route. Very good movement and not over until you top it out. A very worthy addition, thanks for scrubbing it up and letting us all know it is out there!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Ginseng for Genius (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Has anyone actually climbed this route? I tried it the other day and it feels very hard, harder than v8...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Not a great photo, but it shows the lines. If i get better photo's i will swap them out.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Fisher Block : Nala (V0)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: It is actuallt in my list of things to do, Im planning on a day of cleaning/re-cleaning routes ou in Blackjack, there are many that need the love, just gotta decide when I want to sacrifice a day of climbing for cleaning...


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : Pair of Kings (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: No need to apologize, its just because it as on an iphone...


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : First Impressions (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Im going to say it is the classic grade of v3/v5 :)


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: This is the Bermuda Triangle Boulder, it is 20 feet left and uphill from Smear Tactics.

We cleaned these three lines and climbed two of them, but we named all three lines. The names give in the photo are the three names we would like to use.

This is why. The story is that the USS Cyclops is the largest single loss event for the Navy in history. She and her 309 crew disappeared without a trace in the Bermuda Triangle in March of 1918. In 1941 her sister ships the USS Nereus and USS Proteus bo... more >>


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : USS Nereus (V0)
By: matthewWallace When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: I really posted this route to make mention of the HARD sit start project to this route. it starts with good hands and makes really hard pull on little knobs to get established on the face. (See photo's). This sit start will be a great hard line and will get a few more stars. Have at it!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: You are correct it is a dead vertical wall :)


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : First Impressions (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: I am excited to climb this one! It looks awesome!


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Arch Nemesis (V4+)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: I wouldn't say it was hot but it certainly wasn't the best conditions. We thought it might fall into the mid v5 range, but who know we might have missed something too...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : The Return of The Blot (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Not a problem at all! I am glad you get to use the information!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Behind Zig Zag Boulder : Welcome To Heartbreak (V3-4)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: Tim, you are a sandbagger on this one!


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