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Cool movement on this line


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 20 mins ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 44
Total Points: 8,160
Last Year: 566
Last 30 Days: 58
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 4172 | Routes 294 | Areas 49 | Photos 654 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 1212 | Posts 500 | Stars 923 | Ratings 539
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Flower Power (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: 1 day ago

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Comments: I felt this was pretty darn hard too, I tried it a few ways hoping to find what I was missing!!


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Wizard (V9-10)
By: matthewWallace When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Ah it makes much more sense now! Cant wait to get back up there and give this a shot!


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Bloody Phalanges (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Yeah if you couldn't use the large foot rail for the first couple moves it would feel way harder for sure!!! I also thought the move going out left looked hard. I would be interested to see what you guys think with the beta I used.


Location: Nick Votto : Climbing Pics : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Hey Nick where in Sandwich Notch is this?


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Hemolysis - Sit Start (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: The start for this looks super scrunched up for the taller climber! Will have to try it next time I amp here!


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Arthritis Sit (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: This adds one hard move onto the start, bring your skin! Next time!!


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Wizard (V9-10)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Any more beta for the starting left hand? Is it the crimp on the inside of the crack about a foot off the ground? Would love to give this a shot next time I am in the area.


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Dirty Crack (V4-5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Awesome devious climbing. An area classic!


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Arthritis (V6+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: This and 'Dirty Crack' are two classics for the area, this has great movement with good holds. I think the grade of v6+ is a little high for me it felt more like v5, either way it is an awesome problem that everyone should climb.

The discussion above makes it sound contrived but it is an obvious line with obvious starting holds in the squat position to an obvious finish. Great line.


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Stinger Mantis (V1)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: This is an awesome boulder problem. It would be a high quality v1 anywhere!


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Bloody Phalanges (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun boulder problem although I think it is much easier than the suggested grade, this might be because I am tall.

My beta was also a little different than the beta in the video. I started as Sam started but instead of moving left, I skipped the move out and left and I immediately went right hand out to the sloper, moved my left food up to a good edge and reached for the jug above. For me it felt v3/4 for a short climber I think it would be hard v4.


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Dirty Crack Boulder : Scabbers (V2+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: This climbed would be a lot better with a little cleaning. A fun short climb.


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Red eft boulder : Path of the Mossy Skink (V1)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: I did the variation mentioned above. It really felt like adding on move into 'Jamaican Lager'. A fun variation but not something I would post as its own route.


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Red eft boulder : Jamaican Lager (V2+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Not a bad climb. It is always fun to have to squeeze up something in New England instead of crimping!


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Red eft boulder : Red Eft (V1)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: This is a fantastic problem and a pretty good warm up for the harder things in the area.


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Red eft boulder : Green Eft (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Cool climbing, being tall makes the sequence different but still really fun.


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Red eft boulder : Slimey (V2+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: I kept my feet below me on my onsight, it climbed beautifully this way. It also climbed a bit harder but a bit better than rocking up onto the ramp.


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington : Red eft boulder : Shaky Flake (V0-)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: The starting flake on this route is no longer "Semi-Solid" is wiggly and dangerous. The problem can still be climbed by starting on the shelf just below the sketchy flake.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Axis Boulder : Morbid Obesity (V0+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the heads up Eli, Ill give it a scrub sometime soon.


Location: VT : DEKD boulders in Killington
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Thinking of checking out this area soon, what conditions should we expect to find the boulders in? Do people still climb here?


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : The Fire Tower : Burnout (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: A fun little problem that has some excitement every time you hit the flexing jug. The top half needs a good cleaning...


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : The Fire Tower : Jesus Every Time (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: This problem s fantastic. Really fun climbing linking good edges. It would see tons of ascents if it was at a busier climbing area. I didn't get the send due to a very mossy top-out, I plan on scrubbing it next time I am at the Fire Tower Boulders.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Barn Door Direct Direct (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: I highly recommend this climb. It is very different by Rumney's standards. I find most Rumney boulders are on the burly side, however this one is all about slow, controlled movement. It is a fun change of pace!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Barn Door Directly Indirect (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: A better name for this would be 'Barn Door Indirect" or 'The Barn Ladder'. Anyone have an objection to me changing the name to something that represents the climb a bit better?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : The Ancients : Nature Boy (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: Finally got around to climbing this today. Although the holds are still a bit sharp in places the route climbs fairly well. It starts with fun tension-y movement on good holds to a large move to a jug. It would get another star if a tumble down the hill wasn't always in the back of your mind.


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