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Rock Climbing Photo: Figuring out the beta on The Alchemist


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 39
Total Points: 8,993
Last Year: 911
Last 30 Days: 162
52 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 4475 | Routes 319 | Areas 53 | Photos 745 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 1271 | Posts 507 | Stars 994 | Ratings 582
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : Oh the Humanity (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: I have not climbed this yet, but it looks like a classic!


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : The Mooring (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: This is a fun line, with two cruxes. The first is the opening couple moves and the second is the top out until you know the right spots to grab.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: Zac, do these start holds look right to you?


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: This overhang now host the line 'The Gambler v3'. Come climb it!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Fisher Block : Fisher Fissure (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: Jake while I agree with you about the top, I think it is important to note that the true line starts as a sit as demonstrated in Christians video above. Starting standing in the slot removes a few hard moves and will bring the grade down a bit.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Halfway Region : ... : The Lupine (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: There is a significantly harder line that starts with your right hand in the left hand pod of this route and a small crimp for your left. From the starting holds dyno several feet up and left to a single digit mailbox slot and top out straight up. The closet i came to making the crux move was 3 inches from the slot you are throwing to, the moves after the crux move are about v3. So if hard dyno's are your forte try this route.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Main Parking Lot/Meadows Bo... : The Meadows bouldering : ... : Wallace's Roof (V2+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: No I have never really given it another thought, let me know when you are up this way sometime and we can take speak at it.


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park : Coyotes (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: I was out walking around this spot today, I did not see this boulder, where is it located?


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park : State of Fear (V7)
By: matthewWallace When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Jake, if you ask an admin they should be able to temporary move the areas for you to allow the construction of sub area's. Or if you write up the descriptions the might be able to post them for you.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Halfway Region : Roadside Boulder
By: matthewWallace When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: There is a hard line (v8-v9? I haven't really tried it too much) to be done between 'The Mystic' and 'Sunday Funday'. Starts on a half pad undercling and make hard tension moves on tiny holds to jugs at the lip.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Its the next hold the climber in the picture ould be going for, and the line travel right over it


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: Jake, thats how I have always done it, I make a big move out to the clam shell then work across the slopers. Foot work seems to be key for me!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Outside Corner (5.10 V1)
By: matthewWallace When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Jake, they were originally short trad climbs.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Skip and Sandy Boulder : Deacon Variation (V7)
By: matthewWallace When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Nice work Jake!!!


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Highlander Wall : JAG (5.10b/c)
By: matthewWallace When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: I left a carabiner at the top of this climb so that the anchor is redundant for lowering/rappelling.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Beede Falls Area : ... : A Vulnerable Man (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: May 1, 2016

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Comments: The moves on this boulder are quite good, with bullet hard rock. The awkwardness of the boulder at the start does take away from it a bit, but if you can get past that you will enjoy this climb a lot.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Pulpit Rock Area : Great Awakening (V3 R)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: I was looking this line the other day, it looks sick! Where is the crux?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Ginseng for Genius (V8)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Has anyone ever sent this line? I would love to know what it actually goes at


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Entrance Boulders : Caver's Problem (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: Hi Jake, sorry about the confusion, I updated the description to better describe the route. It sounds like you were starting one move in!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Pink Flag Trial Boulders : 3. Try-Pyramid Boulder : Try This (V1)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: I don't think the route potential on this boulder warrants any more cleaning. As it is there seems to be several small trees that were cut to make this mediocre problem possible. I think there has to be a balance in what we cut and clean based on likely hood of people climbing it in the future.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Charity Case (5.9) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: To me it looks like you are actually at Main Cliff Proper/Center and you are on the 5.8+ called Gold Digger? Was there a insecure step right at the top?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Pink Flag Trial Boulders : 4. The Clean Slate Roof and... : The Sins of Omission (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: This is an interesting boulder problem and a tough one to grade. For me it felt v2ish but I am tall, it will feel grades hard for short people. Hence the v3 rating, I am trying to remain height neutral.

If you adventure out here, few will, please climb it and chime in on the grade.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Pink Flag Trial Boulders : 3. Try-Pyramid Boulder : Try This (V1)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: I am not sure where you started this Eli, I started on a good crimp with the right and a crystal with the left, then moved up into the jugs. Is that where you started? Photo coming soon.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Pink Flag Trial Boulders : 1. Mouse House Boulder : Mama Mouse Reads Bedtime St... (V1)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: I climbed a short extension to this problem today, it starts more left on the nose of the boulder, then moves right, into the start holds of the original line.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Pink Flag Trial Boulders : 1. Mouse House Boulder : Baby Mouse Buffet (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: This feels more like soft v1 if you start with the obvious starting holds. Using a large left know for your left and your right on the arete with a good side-pull, starting with the real small crimps under the roof makes it harder but very contrived.


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