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Rock Climbing Photo: Figuring out the beta on The Alchemist


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 39
Total Points: 9,126
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










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All 4521 | Routes 325 | Areas 53 | Photos 756 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1287 | Posts 507 | Stars 1003 | Ratings 585
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : Limbic (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: 21 hours ago

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Comments: As far as I know the line hasn't been down yet, where does the sit start begin?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Minty Floss (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Cool always fun to do something new out there, I will give it a shot next time I am at the pound.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Pound Crack Boulder : Limbic (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Hi Brad the route to the right is Pound Back and starts just inside the little cave on a good sloper. I can't picture how the two aeries would come together... You climb it already? any photos?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Minty Floss (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Is this just a low start into Randy Moss?


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Barn Door Boulder : Barn Door (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: I dont think there is any trick beta, however if you do not have the beta just right, it will make it seem much harder than a v2!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Maceo (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: Interesting, I actually really enjoy this one move wonder! There is a foot, it is just high!


Location: CT : CT Bouldering : Bald Rock Basin : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: What route is this?


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Snicker-Doodle (V7+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: Cool, I always new there was a line that would climb through here!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Fido Low (V6-)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: I agree variations can be added. I don't think this line needs to be deleted, just update the description to not be an eliminate. Cheers, keep on exploring!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Fido Low (V6-)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: It might be a more fun way to do it but it does not create a new line. Saying you can't match, or use an obvious hold makes it an eliminate. Eliminates are fun but not individual lines. I would suggest to post the eliminate in the comments and encourage people to try it because the fun moves. I would be very hesitant to start posting "new routes" that just require skipping or not using a hold in the a certain way, those are variations/eliminates ... more >>


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Fido Low (V6-)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: Prohibiting moves and holds for the sake of making another problem seems a bit silly. Full blown eliminates, like this, should be posted as variations in the comments of the climb. There is a fine lie between a different route and a fun eliminate to try once you have climbed it the other way. This seems more like an eliminate and such does not really deserve its own place in the data base. However this is just my opinion!

And this video of the low-sit has the holds you list as "o... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Umbrella Boulder : Sick Man Says "Deadpoint" (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 20, 2016

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Comments: Hey Andrew, I started fully sitting and did not use the big block for feet. On variation two I went up with my right hand which seemed to be a bit easier than the bump method.

Did the photo's I upload look correct from what you did?

I switched my suggested grades to 4 and 4+ after some more thought. Regardless they are fun variations to climb when you are in the area.

The grades are just compared to other things in the area. These moves are easier than '@SEMICOLON... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Umbrella Boulder : Sick Man Says "Deadpoint" (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: Hey guys, while I do think these are fun variations I do not think they are v6 or v7. Granted I am tall, but I believe variation 1 is v4+ and variation 2 is v4.

Also I couldn't find the undercling you listed as starting left hand, so I used a chalked crimp below the big rail. However, I wonder why you wouldn't just start matched on the rail?

Check out the photo's I loaded and make sure i have the variations correct, maybe i got somet... more >>


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park : Changing Tides (V8 PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: Cool, nice work guys, both look awesome!


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park : Changing Tides (V8 PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 18, 2016

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Comments: I would love to see a photo of this climb as well as devil's steps!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Streambed Boulders : Downward Dog (V1+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 14, 2016

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Comments: If I recall properly the crimps on this face are all pretty fragile, some were loose. Decent movement but the bad rock quality really detracts from it. That is unless the loose stuff has all come off leaving solid holds since last October.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Buttermilk Boulder : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: or this hillside wore away revealing it...


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Zoo : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: The only thing I see is "Two Bits" is actually the tall face opposite The Professor


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Pulpit Rock Area : Wage Slaves (V3-4)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: The top out of this got a cleaning today


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Roadside Area : ... : Streaked Roof (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: This line is an area classic! Might feel a bit soft for tall climbers but should not be missed.

Here is a bit more of a description:

Sit start on the jugs in the back corner, make a long move with big feet to the good crimps way out left, from here enter the crux. Pick some feet and grab the good crimp in the roof, work your feet around and turn the roof on good holds to massive jugs at the top of the boulder.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Passage : Lateralus (5.12a)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: Mark do you have any photo's of this?


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : Oh the Humanity (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: I have not climbed this yet, but it looks like a classic!


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : The Mooring (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: This is a fun line, with two cruxes. The first is the opening couple moves and the second is the top out until you know the right spots to grab.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: Zac, do these start holds look right to you?


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: This overhang now host the line 'The Gambler v3'. Come climb it!


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