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Rock Climbing Photo: Figuring out the beta on The Alchemist


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact matthewWallace

Point Rank: # 39
Total Points: 9,125
Last Year: 991
Last 30 Days: 132
54 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 4519 | Routes 325 | Areas 53 | Photos 756 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 1285 | Posts 507 | Stars 1003 | Ratings 585
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Snicker-Doodle (V7+)
By: matthewWallace When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Cool, I always new there was a line that would climb through here!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Fido Low (V6-)
By: matthewWallace When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I agree variations can be added. I don't think this line needs to be deleted, just update the description to not be an eliminate. Cheers, keep on exploring!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Fido Low (V6-)
By: matthewWallace When: 3 days ago

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Comments: It might be a more fun way to do it but it does not create a new line. Saying you can't match, or use an obvious hold makes it an eliminate. Eliminates are fun but not individual lines. I would suggest to post the eliminate in the comments and encourage people to try it because the fun moves. I would be very hesitant to start posting "new routes" that just require skipping or not using a hold in the a certain way, those are variations/eliminates ... more >>


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde... : Fido Low (V6-)
By: matthewWallace When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Prohibiting moves and holds for the sake of making another problem seems a bit silly. Full blown eliminates, like this, should be posted as variations in the comments of the climb. There is a fine lie between a different route and a fun eliminate to try once you have climbed it the other way. This seems more like an eliminate and such does not really deserve its own place in the data base. However this is just my opinion!

And this video of the low-sit has the holds you list as "o... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Umbrella Boulder : Sick Man Says "Deadpoint" (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 20, 2016

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Comments: Hey Andrew, I started fully sitting and did not use the big block for feet. On variation two I went up with my right hand which seemed to be a bit easier than the bump method.

Did the photo's I upload look correct from what you did?

I switched my suggested grades to 4 and 4+ after some more thought. Regardless they are fun variations to climb when you are in the area.

The grades are just compared to other things in the area. These moves are easier than '@SEMICOLON... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Umbrella Boulder : Sick Man Says "Deadpoint" (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: Hey guys, while I do think these are fun variations I do not think they are v6 or v7. Granted I am tall, but I believe variation 1 is v4+ and variation 2 is v4.

Also I couldn't find the undercling you listed as starting left hand, so I used a chalked crimp below the big rail. However, I wonder why you wouldn't just start matched on the rail?

Check out the photo's I loaded and make sure i have the variations correct, maybe i got somet... more >>


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park : Changing Tides (V8 PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: Cool, nice work guys, both look awesome!


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park : Changing Tides (V8 PG13)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 18, 2016

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Comments: I would love to see a photo of this climb as well as devil's steps!


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Streambed Boulders : Downward Dog (V1+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 14, 2016

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Comments: If I recall properly the crimps on this face are all pretty fragile, some were loose. Decent movement but the bad rock quality really detracts from it. That is unless the loose stuff has all come off leaving solid holds since last October.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Buttermilk Boulder : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: or this hillside wore away revealing it...


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Zoo : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: The only thing I see is "Two Bits" is actually the tall face opposite The Professor


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Pulpit Rock Area : Wage Slaves (V3-4)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: The top out of this got a cleaning today


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Roadside Area : ... : Streaked Roof (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: This line is an area classic! Might feel a bit soft for tall climbers but should not be missed.

Here is a bit more of a description:

Sit start on the jugs in the back corner, make a long move with big feet to the good crimps way out left, from here enter the crux. Pick some feet and grab the good crimp in the roof, work your feet around and turn the roof on good holds to massive jugs at the top of the boulder.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Passage : Lateralus (5.12a)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: Mark do you have any photo's of this?


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : Oh the Humanity (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: I have not climbed this yet, but it looks like a classic!


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : The Mooring (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: This is a fun line, with two cruxes. The first is the opening couple moves and the second is the top out until you know the right spots to grab.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: Zac, do these start holds look right to you?


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Lower Falls Area : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: This overhang now host the line 'The Gambler v3'. Come climb it!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Fisher Block : Fisher Fissure (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: Jake while I agree with you about the top, I think it is important to note that the true line starts as a sit as demonstrated in Christians video above. Starting standing in the slot removes a few hard moves and will bring the grade down a bit.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Roadside Area : ... : The Lupine (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: There is a significantly harder line that starts with your right hand in the left hand pod of this route and a small crimp for your left. From the starting holds dyno several feet up and left to a single digit mailbox slot and top out straight up. The closet i came to making the crux move was 3 inches from the slot you are throwing to, the moves after the crux move are about v3. So if hard dyno's are your forte try this route.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Main Parking Lot/Meadows Bo... : The Meadows bouldering : ... : Wallace's Roof (V2+)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: No I have never really given it another thought, let me know when you are up this way sometime and we can take speak at it.


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park : Coyotes (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: I was out walking around this spot today, I did not see this boulder, where is it located?


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Clough State Park : State of Fear (V7)
By: matthewWallace When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Jake, if you ask an admin they should be able to temporary move the areas for you to allow the construction of sub area's. Or if you write up the descriptions the might be able to post them for you.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Sandwich Notch Bouldering : Roadside Area : Roadside Boulder
By: matthewWallace When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: There is a hard line (v8-v9? I haven't really tried it too much) to be done between 'The Mystic' and 'Sunday Funday'. Starts on a half pad undercling and make hard tension moves on tiny holds to jugs at the lip.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Its the next hold the climber in the picture ould be going for, and the line travel right over it


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