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Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.


Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact matthewWallace


Point Rank: # 43
Total Points: 7,602
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Last 30 Days: 24
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has matthewWallace been climbing?










Contributions


All 3806 | Routes 285 | Areas 48 | Photos 582 | Page Improvments | Comments 1122 | Posts 472 | Stars 827 | Ratings 470
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : Nowhere Man (V7)
By: matthewWallace When: 2 days ago

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Comments: I used a heel on the shelf but I am six feet tall, my shorter friends used a toe as it allowed them to get up high over there leg.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: 2 days ago

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Comments: You are good sir! Great line!!!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : Cilley Old Man (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: 3 days ago

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Comments: This is just speculation because I have never climbed 'Groove' but I always though you climbed the groove more directly for 'Groove". 'Old Man' doesn't seem to follow the groove for more than the first move.

MAYBE beta for 'Groove' is go up left hand to the crimp then knee bar and layback up the shallow corner? Not too sure though... Pure speculation.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : Good Morning Midnight (V3+)
By: matthewWallace When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Planning on getting some photos while out there soon, will post them up ASAP, glad you enjoyed the problem!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : Good Morning Midnight (V3+)
By: matthewWallace When: 5 days ago

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Comments: No worries man, it is a pretty fun climb and feels unique to the area because the crux is all about balance and not about pure power, get on it and tell us what you think!


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : Nowhere Man (V7)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Jaime, I did the bump beta, that is in the video above. My friend Jonny locked off the small right hand crimp and went left into the good hold using real scrunched up high feet, felt impossible that way being 6 feet tall with a plus one reach...


Location: PA : Mount Gretna : Colflesh Area : Sur La Pointe (V5)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 4, 2014

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Comments: About how far down the hill is this? I tried finding it last time I was in the area with no luck, anyone have a photo?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below...
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Cool I will do some work on this in the not too distant future, have some ideas already


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Shipyard (V1) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Yeah I like that name, it can have a nautical theme to all the names too


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Main Parking Lot/Meadows Bo... : The Meadows bouldering : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Anybody know anything that has been done coming out this roof?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Main Parking Lot/Meadows Bo... : The Meadows bouldering : Hells Kitchen
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Recently a large tree fell from above this band of rock, knocking down several other trees, leaving this area covered by downfall and unclimbable.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Main Parking Lot/Meadows Bo... : The Meadows bouldering : ... : Friend Of The Devil (V3)
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun little wall to climb on, can be a bit sandy but worth a brushing to climb it. Any info on what your routes were Mark?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Schist Show Boulders (below... : Shipyard (V1) : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Mark I posted a route called Shipyard on this boulder, It climbed basically right behind the two big tress and only climbed it to the lip never topped it out. This boulder field has many gems just waiting to be climbed!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Welch and Dickie Boulders : Lower Bowl : ... : Warmup Wall (V1-2)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: I think the best variation on this face starts on the jugs and makes a fun hard lock off move to a small crimp before meeting up with all the jugs.


Location: NH : Artist's Bluff : Handy Cap Direct (5.12)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 26, 2014

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Comments: Yeah I think the bolts on this route were updated and new ones drill 8 feet to the left through the steep overhang.


Location: NH : Artist's Bluff : Handy Cap Direct (5.12)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: There is a new line of bolts just to the left of this climb. Does anybody have info about what it is?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : Nowhere Man (V7)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: After climbing this route, I want to encourage people to get on it! It is a classy line and the falls really are not that bad. A fall going for the lip could be sketchy but with a good spotter I don't think it would be to bad.


Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : Like Old Times (5.8)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: Have your belayer be very aware when climbing this route, there is a good amount of hollow/loose/brittle rock on the first 2/3's of this climb. I was belaying someone on it and could hear many pieces of rock falling in the chimney. Just something to keep in mind.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Smarts Brook Area : After Work Boulders : Ready Fire Aim (V4)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Does this start standing with hand at about six feet? About a foot below the good hold on the arÍte?


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : The Block Problem (V9)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: One thing I have always been confused about this route is if the pocket/jug is off? This hold is about 10 inches left of the starting crimp and sloper.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Smarts Brook Area : After Work Boulders : Cool but Contrived (V2)
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: So the crack to the right is off?


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Smarts Brook Area : After Work Boulders
By: matthewWallace When: Jun 15, 2014

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Comments: Jay I believe the trail you are talking about is called, The Pine Flats Trail, looking forward to heading out here


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : Cilley Old Man (V6)
By: matthewWallace When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: When I climbed it I felt it was a pretty natural line, start on the starting holds for Cilley Groove and climb the face between that and Cilley Flakes. I used the ramp for Cilley Groove for feet when topping out because it felt natural that way, and there is no point where you would want to go any further left...


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: I used my right hand where the left hand in the photo and my left hand lower on a decent side pull. This makes the move longer but off of a better hold


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Ricochet Boulder : ... : Photo
By: matthewWallace When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: My right hand in the photo is on the hold described as the starting hold and shown in the other photos, I elected to use my left hand on a lower side pull, it is a better hold but it makes the move longer.


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