Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Summit Shot Courtesy of Jesse Zacher


Member Since: Dec 9, 2006
Last Visit: Feb 2, 2014
Contact Matthew Seymour


Point Rank: # 683
Total Points: 943
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
26 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Seymour been climbing?










Contributions


All 255 | Routes 59 | Areas 6 | Photos 47 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 35 | Stars 76 | Ratings 4
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Zappa Wall : Short Corner (5.10+)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Jun 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Don't be a Euro! Due to the way this thing leans, it is actually much easier to jam straight in than layback. Maybe 10- as a jam crack and harder if you don't have technique, but isn't everything?


Location: MT : Paradise Valley : Cowen Cirque : Montana Centennial Route (5.11a)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Oct 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: A year on and the day is still burned into my memory. This is one of the best alpine routes anywhere in the 48, I promise. The climbing itself is nearly perfect, the setting is amazing. Even the hike in and the camp by the lake are spectacular. Do it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Nov 24, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Alright here we go:

Zenyatta Entrada III+/IV 5.4 C2 maybe C2+

I unfortunately have not climbed the original start yet and so can not describe it any better than it is given already, but here is a description using the variation start.

Pitch 1 (right variation): 25m 5.4 C1 or 5.10
Stem and climb up onto the large block on the right. Take the crack that goes up from the right side of the block. This starts as .75 BD and eventually widens to 4 inches. There is a bit of looseness just before th... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Nov 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Ain't no way this is C3, nor is it a grade IV. The climbing is excellent however. To restate what Jesse said, yes you will be fairly screwed without an orange alien at the end of the roof pitch. A red alien is also mandatory earlier on this pitch. Having a mix of C3's and Aliens is great.
Honestly this thing is not that technical, I probably made about a dozen nut placements on the whole thing, and cams worked everywhere else. If you having any doubts about the length or difficulty, go for it. I... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3) : Photo
By: Matthew Seymour When: Nov 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: From here you make a very solid hook move on the right then clip the bolt, easy peasy.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Things Fall Apart (5.13-)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Nov 8, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Nice dude! I've looked at this thing many times and dreamt of being that strong. This is probably the hardest free route in Junction.


Location: Jennifer Pinkus : Climbing : Photo
By: Matthew Seymour When: Nov 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: It is in Colorado....that's all I'll say.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado
By: Matthew Seymour When: Oct 22, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Approach takes about 15-20 minutes. It's really short, like under a mile, but very steep.

Also, once you cross the fence you want to follow the trail right until you are under a bit of the hill that is less steep than surrounding areas. This is just past the obvious large drainage. From here you follow a faint game/climbers trail up the hill and into a a small drainage. Sometimes the start of the trail has cairns, sometimes not.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Steppin' On it (5.9+) : Photo
By: Matthew Seymour When: Sep 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Mr. Bill's glider rides north shore Oahu. My dad flew for them for a while, and I actually got my private glider license there. Very pretty place and pretty much the only place in the country where glider rides can be profitable.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Late Bloomer Boulder Area : ... : Surgical Procedure (V6-7)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Sep 24, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Very cool, very fun, very held together with excessive glue.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Sep 22, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Yes! I was way early on the preachy bit there. After climbing the route again I see not only is it a slung horn and fixed nut anchor as Doug mentioned, but it is MY slung horn and fixed nut anchor from having bailed in a hail storm in May '08.

I was surprised it was still there, and now that I think about it, I am surprised that I didn't clean up my own mess when I had the chance this time around. Doh.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Seymour When: Sep 22, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Very helpful to carry along even in black and white. If you have a good color printer, definitely print this and bring it.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall : Sidewinder (5.11+)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Sep 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Possibly the best pitch of crack climbing in the canyon.

It is possible to traverse left from the anchors and finish up Moon Shadow. This way would be recommended.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Aug 20, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: "There is a fixed anchor now at the first ledge on the first pitch. "
A bolt!? or just a slung horn and/or fixed nut?
If there is a bolt there it should be chopped immediately. Not to be elitist, but I feel bolted stations would sort of ruin the Black Canyon experience.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Quarry Wall : Moon Shadow (5.10)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Jul 5, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The rappel from the top of this climb is from a chain around a tree. It can just be done to the ground with two 60m ropes.

Additionally, this climb can just be led all the way with a 60m rope if you manage you runners.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Lincoln Creek Cliff : Haywire (5.9)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Jun 22, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This has to be one of the steepest 5.9s around. Looking at it from the ground, it is hard to imagine that it is going to be 5.9. Fun.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Super Dyke (5.11)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Apr 24, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This route is good practice for the runnout moves on the Scenic Cruise peg traverse. Similar idea but harder and with bolts.

Also, you need a competent second due to the traversing nature of the climb.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Nov 20, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: The route goes clean at C3+F relying on many fixed heads.
You DO NOT need any pitons on this route. Old scars protect great with Lowe-balls and tri-cams.
The only reason to bring a hammer is to replace any blown heads you might encounter.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Singles (5.10a)
By: Matthew Seymour When: May 8, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Currently this climb has a single bolt anchor. The other bolt pulled out under a very light load.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Ribbed Buttress (5.11+ C1)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Mar 16, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Just a litle more info on the route.

The second pitch climbs fingers in a right-facing corner then goes to hands for the last 25 feet in a left-facing corner.

Additionally, the 3rd pitch as described above can be done in two pitches. There is a two bolt anchor at the "rest." This way is probably more comfortable, unless you want to carry three 4s and a 3 through the 5.11 finger section, and leave your partner in a hanging belay for longer.

Further, the last half of pitch three, after the "r... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Wingate Warrior (5.11a)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Feb 12, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: 2/12/8 The flake is mostly gone now, pulling off in my hands. The last bit should be gone in a few more freeze thaw cycles.

A little sandy and with loose rock to be a classic.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss (5.8 C1)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Jan 8, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: The chimney is actually on the same, west, side of the tower, you just climb up the other side of the large flake.

The dihedral just to the right is great 5.11- about. Fingers through tight hands and a final big hands roof.

The splitter further to the right is good. Lots of wide hands, and maybe even fists depending on your hand size. 5.10+ about, a 70m rope just gets you down.

No idea on the FAs. But the anchors indicate it might be the same person who did some of the more recent devel... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Fruita Canyon : Harvest Moon (5.11)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Aug 19, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Harvest Moon
FA: Luke Laeser, Jon Butler, 1995

Pitch 1: 5.10 R
Start up chossy, unprotected, but easier climbing through a Chinle layer up to a roof in better rock with a crack that can be protected. Pass the roof and gain a large ledge below the dihedral.

Pitch 2: 5.11
Move up the dihedral with some varied climbing from thin hands through an offwidth section. The climbing then steepens and moves through thin hands up to the body length roof. Pass the roof with hands, and turn the corner. ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Desert Solitaire (5.11a C1)
By: Matthew Seymour When: May 31, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: The above comments do a good job describing the route, but I'd like to say just a bit more about pitch 4, the old aid pitch.

It is freeable at a grade in the mid 11s, so if you are taking the rest of the route free you should definitely attempt to free his pitch, everything you need is there. The main difficulty might be that the crux here is more of a face climb, where the rest of the route is a straight crack. However, the crux is short, and you have good pro that you can double up on rig... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Standard Route (5.7)
By: Matthew Seymour When: Mar 18, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: FA: KC Baum and Tom Archibeque, 10/87.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>