Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Matthew Fienup


Point Rank: # 50
Total Points: 7,187
Last Year: 493
Last 30 Days: 26
451 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 1994 | Routes 173 | Areas 32 | Photos 910 | Page Improvements | Comments 427 | Posts 39 | Stars 328 | Ratings 85
Page 7 of 18.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 11, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Worst of all, the bolts are located just a few feet from an obvious crack. In addition, there is a solid rappel tree visible to the left.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Chavez/Mosher (5.10- R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 9, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Call it R or PG-13, it's still groundfall.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : Spontaneous Order (5.10a PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 7, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Readers of Mike's post should not be induced to rappel straight down the 2nd pitch (a.k.a. "Blue in Green") with a 60 m rope. If you do not rappel off the ends of your rope and take the plunge, you will need to down-climb some fifth class rock to get to the next anchor.

That pitch is over 30m long.

The two pitches above are certainly not long, but their combined length is well over 100 feet. Mike's comments are detached from reality.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Clean Sweep (5.9 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 26, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed. The difference is that the climbing through the first three bolts is 3 or 4 grades harder than the runout that you refer to.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Mike,
I would appreciate some context for your various comments throughout the Fortress section.

How do you feel about places like Wheeler Gorge or, farther afield, the Owens River Gorge? Are well protected routes in these areas inappropriate?

Consider the route Superfly ...is this a single pitch route or a two pitch route as described on this website? Is a route automatically one pitch if it is shorter than 60m?... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Permanent Income Hypothesis (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 27, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The poster that you refer to did not say that the route would be better with half the number of bolts ; )


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Le Fissure King (V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 20, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: "Le Fissure King: V3 **
Sit-Start the crack. A long and painful lock leads to good edges. Stand start is V0."

Banks, Bob. Ocean's Eleven: Bouldering around Santa Barbara. Self published, 2003. page 82.


Location: Matthew Fienup : Bolt Info : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: For more information from Duane Raleigh and others, visit the American Safe Climbing Association.

Mechanical Bolts - the Nuts & Bolts, by Duane Raleigh

Dangerous Bolts - Bolts to Avoid, by Duane Raleigh


Location: Matthew Fienup : Bolt Info : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: In regard to my parenthetical note about Central Coast Sandstone...

In the study, Duane Raleigh actually tested bolts in custom-made blocks, which were chosen for their specific hardnesses. Soft Rock was simulated using 1,000 psi concrete. Medium Rock was simulated using 2,000 psi concrete. Hard Rock was simulated using tombstone-grade marble and granite blocks.

Here on the Central Coast, I have seen sandstone that is likely softer than 1,000psi (the Foot and parts of San Ysidro co... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: As an interesting footnote to this image...
On the day of the climb, standing at the base, I had a debate with myself. Should I bring the SLR and the heavy glass? Or should I stash that 5 pounds of gear and settle for the point-and-shoot (which at that time, was just 5 MP).

I had never climbed the route, and although I was not planning to lead the first pitch squeeze, I new that I would be leading much of the route above. After several minutes of internal back-and-forth, I stashed the SLR an... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Erik Anderson's route "Natural Rate of Unemployment" (5.10) climbs a plumb line below the top of "Capitalism & Freedom."


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Erik Anderson's route "Natural Rate of Unemployment" (5.10) climbs a plumb line below the top of "Capitalism & Freedom."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Touch and Go Face : Touch and Go (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Spectacular!


Location: joshf : misc : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 17, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Unbelievable shot!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 5, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: That roof was the clear crux of the route for me.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 5, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like the top of the second.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Tree Root (5.5) : Photo (Copy)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: You actually can not see the bottom ten feet of the route. What appears to be the ground is the dirt alongside the road, at the feet of the photographer (fully 80 feet back from the wall).


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : Chouinard Special (5.8+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Originally rated 5.8 X. Subsequently, four lead bolts were added to protect what had been a 30 foot runout on the first pitch.



Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Close To The Edge (5.9 PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Originally rated 5.10R


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern...
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: A friend of mine lost a camera here, on Monday, October 12. Although the camera probably did not survive the heavy rainfall of October 13 & 14, the hope is that the memory card survived.

If you happen to find the camera, please contact me. Thank you.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Sentinel Peak : Cosmo the Cosmic Crow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The final pitch (about 5.9) of this route is the best way to reach the summit of Sentinel Peak. To access the final pitch, follow the hiker's trail around to the back (north side) of the peak. Follow a ledge system around the west side of the summit block until you arrive on the south side of the formation. The final pitch is located in a recess, in the center of the south face. See topo for details.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Sentinel Peak
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: For twelve weeks during the summer months, scout camp participants hike Sentinel Peak EVERY weekday morning to catch the sunrise. On these days, you can expect a crowd of between 10 and 50 people.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern...
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: To be even more specific: park on the east side of the road, in the turnout just below the southern flank of the crag (70 yards down the road from a point below the center of the crag). A well developed climbers trail starts in this turnout and diagonals upward to the center of the crag.

Directly below the center of the dome is a boulder-filled gully that uninitiated climbers (like us, last week) clearly use to access the crag. The gully is no fun.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Unknown, South of Tree Rout... (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This is an AWESOME first pitch alternate to Anti-Jello. From the bolted anchor, head straight up into the classic tips crack.

The route is also a useful diversion while waiting in line for the Tree Route.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : The Lieback (5.5)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this route with very limited beta--just what is available in the Needles Guidebook. I am RELIEVED to see that other folks have graded this route 5.8. This was a sustained and challenging lead--at least as hard as the classic lieback on White Punks.

I expected a walk in the park...
Instead, I got absolutely awesome 5.8 endurance liebacking. This route is like a Tobin's Dihedral... more >>


Page 7 of 18.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>