Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Matthew Fienup


Point Rank: # 47
Total Points: 7,094
Last Year: 483
Last 30 Days: 6
429 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 1963 | Routes 171 | Areas 32 | Photos 898 | Page Improvments | Comments 414 | Posts 39 | Stars 325 | Ratings 84
Page 7 of 17.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: joshf : misc : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 17, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Unbelievable shot!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 5, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: That roof was the clear crux of the route for me.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 5, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like the top of the second.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Tree Root (5.5) : Photo (Copy)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 23, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: You actually can not see the bottom ten feet of the route. What appears to be the ground is the dirt alongside the road, at the feet of the photographer (fully 80 feet back from the wall).


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : Chouinard Special (5.8+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Originally rated 5.8 X. Subsequently, four lead bolts were added to protect what had been a 30 foot runout on the first pitch.



Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Close To The Edge (5.9 PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Originally rated 5.10R


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern...
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: A friend of mine lost a camera here, on Monday, October 12. Although the camera probably did not survive the heavy rainfall of October 13 & 14, the hope is that the memory card survived.

If you happen to find the camera, please contact me. Thank you.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Sentinel Peak : Cosmo the Cosmic Crow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The final pitch (about 5.9) of this route is the best way to reach the summit of Sentinel Peak. To access the final pitch, follow the hiker's trail around to the back (north side) of the peak. Follow a ledge system around the west side of the summit block until you arrive on the south side of the formation. The final pitch is located in a recess, in the center of the south face. See topo for details.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Sentinel Peak
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: For twelve weeks during the summer months, scout camp participants hike Sentinel Peak EVERY weekday morning to catch the sunrise. On these days, you can expect a crowd of between 10 and 50 people.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern...
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: To be even more specific: park on the east side of the road, in the turnout just below the southern flank of the crag (70 yards down the road from a point below the center of the crag). A well developed climbers trail starts in this turnout and diagonals upward to the center of the crag.

Directly below the center of the dome is a boulder-filled gully that uninitiated climbers (like us, last week) clearly use to access the crag. The gully is no fun.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Unknown, South of Tree Rout... (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This is an AWESOME first pitch alternate to Anti-Jello. From the bolted anchor, head straight up into the classic tips crack.

The route is also a useful diversion while waiting in line for the Tree Route.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : The Lieback (5.5)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 13, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this route with very limited beta--just what is available in the Needles Guidebook. I am RELIEVED to see that other folks have graded this route 5.8. This was a sustained and challenging lead--at least as hard as the classic lieback on White Punks.

I expected a walk in the park...
Instead, I got absolutely awesome 5.8 endurance liebacking. This route is like a Tobin's Dihedral... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Saddle-Up Cupcake (5.9-) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: A-Frame roof and the top of Exodus is visible in the top right corner of this photo.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Saddle-Up Cupcake (5.9-)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This route still has some loose rock on the upper slab, especially near the third bolt. Should clean up nicely with some travel--the rock is similar to that on Ezra, Little Buckaroo, and Blush.

CORRECTION: that'd be Exodus, Little Buckaroo, and Blush.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 9, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The wall on the left-hand side of this photo is home to It is It & Aquaphobia


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : The Notch Route (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 24, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This route is one of my very favorite ways to introduce people to climbing in Yosemite. Simply awesome.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Lower Gibraltar : Lieback Annie (5.7)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 24, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Following the Jesusita fire, that burned up and over this formation, the glue-in bolts atop this route are loose. They can both be rotated slightly in their holes.

Do not trust these bolts...and stay tuned for a replacement.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Scrub Job (5.9+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This route utilizes the bolt above the left-hand side of the large hole. The bolt above the right-hand side of the hole is Chavez/Mosher.

I believe that Scrub Job has 4 bolts.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Chavez/Mosher (5.10- R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I made the very unfortunate mistake of climbing this route while thinking that I was climbing Scrub Job. The runout above the first bolt is very, very scary.

To my surprise, the route did not feel as hard to me as the "5.10b/c" claimed in the Edwards Guidebook. I thought perhaps 5.10a...or old-school 5.9+.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : The Heckling (5.10a PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 17, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The shallow dihedral immediately right of the Heckling is a fun little top-rope problem (5.6ish, with some lichen). Further right is a 5.8 seam, called Teacher's Aid, which I did not find to be as enjoyable as the dihedral.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Face Lift (5.7 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 17, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: When I think of a "traditional" face climb, I think of routes that use a mix of removable gear and bolts, where bolts were placed on lead and used very sparingly. These types of traditional face climbs are prevalent in the Needles, Tuolumne, and elsewhere. Face Lift is very much in the style of these other traditional climbs.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Free to Choose (5.8+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 17, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The top of this route is equipped with Metolius Rap Hangers--thick, oversized hangers that are designed to have the rope fed directly through the hanger for rappels.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume : Left (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: When I climbed this route yesterday, it actually felt easier than the 5.8 immediately to its right.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 14, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: It is currently against the law to remove, replace or add bolts to the wall at Point Dume. The State Park is actively enforcing this law. Violators can be charged with a misdemeanor (CCR 4307a) and have their gear confiscated.

The State Park's District Environmental Coordinator would like to see an explicit ban on climbing at this site, so all climbers should be advised.

In particular, please stay on developed trails when walking to the top of the cliff. Observe all posted signs.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tobin's Dihedral (5.10+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 11, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: About halfway through the endurance crux, it is possible to stem across the dihedral on small knobs and to achieve a much-needed rest.


Page 7 of 17.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>