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Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 51
Total Points: 7,224
Last Year: 410
Last 30 Days: 31
472 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2013 | Routes 173 | Areas 32 | Photos 915 | Page Improvements | Comments 439 | Posts 41 | Stars 328 | Ratings 85
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Cleaning Lady (5.10-)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: This route feels a grade easier than Menage a Trois and at least two grades easier than Rubber Man...5.10a?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : Slacker (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: My Understanding is that this route climbs the opening crack of Triple Overhang/Crescent to the horizontal break. It then climbs two bolts straight up Dazed & Confused to a sloping ledge. It then rejoins the Crescent and follows this route to the top.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : The Crescent Direct (5.8+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: This is a much more natural and enjoyable line than the original line for The Crescent. This is also one of the most sustained and interesting moderate routes in all of Santa Barbara.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : The Last Dihedral (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: Sorry...it's that 17mm lens. It is a lot steeper than it looks here. The previous photo does it a little more justice.

I am really glad you posted your comment so that others are not misled.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Miccis (5.8+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: I think this gets my vote as the best climb at the crag. Very fun.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Magic Feather (5.10a/b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: "The blunt arete on its (Ashes') right was toproped at 5.10 and may have 4 bolts by the time you read this."

-Edwards, Steve. Rock Climbing Santa Barbara and Ventura. Canada: Falcon Publishing, Inc., 2000.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : The Wasp/The Sting (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: The dots at the bottom of this topo indicate the easier (5.8) variation out of the alcove. The Sting actually starts on the right-hand side, behind the ladder leading up to the platform.

It is possible to rappel from a sling-wad on threaded holes, shortly after exiting the alcove.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: That's actually pretty funny ;-)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 21, 2010

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Comments: This past February, with snow on the hills above Potrero John and Sespe Gorge, there was just 1 or 2 places to cross that did not involve wading.


Location: Matthew Fienup : Miscellaneous : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: 1) Create a solid, multi-point anchor that is located a comfortable distance back from the top of the cliff. In many cases, available protection is 10-30 feet back from the top of the route.

2) Clip the end of a 10-11mm anchor cord to the multi-point anchor. (If necessary, it is possible to use a klemheist or rappel device on the anchor cord to protect yourself as you approach the edge of the cliff.)

3) Using a "BHK," tie the masterpoint at the desired point on the anchor cord (and at the desi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: With clarification from guidebook author Steve Tucker, it seems quite certain that the Chouinard route McTavish climbs up to and through the roof shown in this photo. Please see a topo for McTavish here

Fortunately, the individual who placed the bolts on McTavish has committed to removing them. Stay tuned.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Hi Jon. Thanks for weighing in.

I may have created some confusion. To clarify, this is not the dihedral climbed by Chip's Block. This is the dihedral 60 feet to the left and up from the rappel tree atop Half Ascent. The photo is actually taken from the rappel tree atop Half Ascent.

Also to clarify, according to the Tucker/Steele guidebook, McTavish heads up this way from the rappel tree atop Half Ascent:
"From the point where Half-Ascent gains the lower left-hand edge of the large sl... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Worst of all, the bolts are located just a few feet from an obvious crack. In addition, there is a solid rappel tree visible to the left.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Chavez/Mosher (5.10- R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: Call it R or PG-13, it's still groundfall.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : Spontaneous Order (5.10a PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: Readers of Mike's post should not be induced to rappel straight down the 2nd pitch (a.k.a. "Blue in Green") with a 60 m rope. If you do not rappel off the ends of your rope and take the plunge, you will need to down-climb some fifth class rock to get to the next anchor.

That pitch is over 30m long.

The two pitches above are certainly not long, but their combined length is well over 100 feet. Mike's comments are detached from reality.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Clean Sweep (5.9 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: Agreed. The difference is that the climbing through the first three bolts is 3 or 4 grades harder than the runout that you refer to.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 27, 2009

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Comments: Mike,
I would appreciate some context for your various comments throughout the Fortress section.

How do you feel about places like Wheeler Gorge or, farther afield, the Owens River Gorge? Are well protected routes in these areas inappropriate?

Consider the route Superfly ...is this a single pitch route or a two pitch route as described on this website? Is a route automatically one pitch if it is shorter than 60m?... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Permanent Income Hypothesis (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 27, 2009

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Comments: The poster that you refer to did not say that the route would be better with half the number of bolts ; )


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Le Fissure King (V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 20, 2009

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Comments: "Le Fissure King: V3 **
Sit-Start the crack. A long and painful lock leads to good edges. Stand start is V0."

Banks, Bob. Ocean's Eleven: Bouldering around Santa Barbara. Self published, 2003. page 82.


Location: Matthew Fienup : Bolt Info : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 16, 2009

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Comments: For more information from Duane Raleigh and others, visit the American Safe Climbing Association.

Mechanical Bolts - the Nuts & Bolts, by Duane Raleigh

Dangerous Bolts - Bolts to Avoid, by Duane Raleigh


Location: Matthew Fienup : Bolt Info : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 16, 2009

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Comments: In regard to my parenthetical note about Central Coast Sandstone...

In the study, Duane Raleigh actually tested bolts in custom-made blocks, which were chosen for their specific hardnesses. Soft Rock was simulated using 1,000 psi concrete. Medium Rock was simulated using 2,000 psi concrete. Hard Rock was simulated using tombstone-grade marble and granite blocks.

Here on the Central Coast, I have seen sandstone that is likely softer than 1,000psi (the Foot and parts of San Ysidro co... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 4, 2009

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Comments: As an interesting footnote to this image...
On the day of the climb, standing at the base, I had a debate with myself. Should I bring the SLR and the heavy glass? Or should I stash that 5 pounds of gear and settle for the point-and-shoot (which at that time, was just 5 MP).

I had never climbed the route, and although I was not planning to lead the first pitch squeeze, I new that I would be leading much of the route above. After several minutes of internal back-and-forth, I stashed the SLR an... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 4, 2009

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Comments: Erik Anderson's route "Natural Rate of Unemployment" (5.10) climbs a plumb line below the top of "Capitalism & Freedom."


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 4, 2009

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Comments: Erik Anderson's route "Natural Rate of Unemployment" (5.10) climbs a plumb line below the top of "Capitalism & Freedom."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Touch and Go Face : Touch and Go (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: Spectacular!


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