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Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Matthew Fienup


Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 7,297
Last Year: 405
Last 30 Days: 18
520 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2041 | Routes 173 | Areas 32 | Photos 927 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 449 | Posts 43 | Stars 330 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 16, 2011

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Comments: And quite a song bird that one is. The sweet sound of the acorn woodpecker...

;)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Derrydale Cliff : Mowgli Walk (5.10b/c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 2, 2011

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Comments: Beware of bees on this route. Be sure to check out the route topo to see the location of a small nest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : The Good, the Bad, and the ... (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: Last weekend, I saw somebody fall trying to reach the 7th clip--BIG, thought-provoking fall onto the slab below. Luckily, he was okay.

I like to think of this route as having 5.9 climbing but a 5.10 clip.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : My Name's Nobody, Bub (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: 2 cold shuts up top.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : Once Upon a Climb in the We... (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: Although a little loose, this route is interesting from bottom to top. There is a devious mantle at the final bolt.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Lost Eye to the Moon
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 18, 2011

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Comments: The easy slab routes on the left side of this formation are outstanding beginners' routes. It is possible to scramble to the top of the 3 left-most routes by walking around to the left and then scrambling up the back side (class 2/3).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Lost Eye to the Moon
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 18, 2011

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Comments: For ease of navigation, it seems like this wall should be added to the same area as the Corridors. Same parking and all.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 8, 2011

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Comments: Are you telling me you've never seen a flying fish while climbing in Santa Barbara? :)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Clean Sweep (5.9 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 18, 2011

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Comments: The first ascentionist requested that a lower first bolt be placed. The moment Tim asks for more bolts higher up, someone should consider obliging him--and not sooner. How is this amateurish or disrespectful?

The comment about "trying to bring the route down to the herd's level" seems absurd. The top is still run out.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : Initiation Crack (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 5, 2010

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Comments: The laser-cut crack that makes up the first 60 feet of this route (all of it in the tight-fingers to tight-hands range) is simply incredible.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Cleaning Lady (5.10-)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 28, 2010

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Comments: This route feels a grade easier than Menage a Trois and at least two grades easier than Rubber Man...5.10a?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : Slacker (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: My Understanding is that this route climbs the opening crack of Triple Overhang/Crescent to the horizontal break. It then climbs two bolts straight up Dazed & Confused to a sloping ledge. It then rejoins the Crescent and follows this route to the top.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : The Crescent Direct (5.8+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: This is a much more natural and enjoyable line than the original line for The Crescent. This is also one of the most sustained and interesting moderate routes in all of Santa Barbara.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : The Last Dihedral (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: Sorry...it's that 17mm lens. It is a lot steeper than it looks here. The previous photo does it a little more justice.

I am really glad you posted your comment so that others are not misled.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Miccis (5.8+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 1, 2010

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Comments: I think this gets my vote as the best climb at the crag. Very fun.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Magic Feather (5.10a/b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: "The blunt arete on its (Ashes') right was toproped at 5.10 and may have 4 bolts by the time you read this."

-Edwards, Steve. Rock Climbing Santa Barbara and Ventura. Canada: Falcon Publishing, Inc., 2000.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : The Wasp/The Sting (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: The dots at the bottom of this topo indicate the easier (5.8) variation out of the alcove. The Sting actually starts on the right-hand side, behind the ladder leading up to the platform.

It is possible to rappel from a sling-wad on threaded holes, shortly after exiting the alcove.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 26, 2010

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Comments: That's actually pretty funny ;-)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 21, 2010

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Comments: This past February, with snow on the hills above Potrero John and Sespe Gorge, there was just 1 or 2 places to cross that did not involve wading.


Location: Matthew Fienup : Miscellaneous : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: 1) Create a solid, multi-point anchor that is located a comfortable distance back from the top of the cliff. In many cases, available protection is 10-30 feet back from the top of the route.

2) Clip the end of a 10-11mm anchor cord to the multi-point anchor. (If necessary, it is possible to use a klemheist or rappel device on the anchor cord to protect yourself as you approach the edge of the cliff.)

3) Using a "BHK," tie the masterpoint at the desired point on the anchor cord (and at the desi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: With clarification from guidebook author Steve Tucker, it seems quite certain that the Chouinard route McTavish climbs up to and through the roof shown in this photo. Please see a topo for McTavish here

Fortunately, the individual who placed the bolts on McTavish has committed to removing them. Stay tuned.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Hi Jon. Thanks for weighing in.

I may have created some confusion. To clarify, this is not the dihedral climbed by Chip's Block. This is the dihedral 60 feet to the left and up from the rappel tree atop Half Ascent. The photo is actually taken from the rappel tree atop Half Ascent.

Also to clarify, according to the Tucker/Steele guidebook, McTavish heads up this way from the rappel tree atop Half Ascent:
"From the point where Half-Ascent gains the lower left-hand edge of the large sl... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Worst of all, the bolts are located just a few feet from an obvious crack. In addition, there is a solid rappel tree visible to the left.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Chavez/Mosher (5.10- R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 9, 2010

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Comments: Call it R or PG-13, it's still groundfall.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : Spontaneous Order (5.10a PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: Readers of Mike's post should not be induced to rappel straight down the 2nd pitch (a.k.a. "Blue in Green") with a 60 m rope. If you do not rappel off the ends of your rope and take the plunge, you will need to down-climb some fifth class rock to get to the next anchor.

That pitch is over 30m long.

The two pitches above are certainly not long, but their combined length is well over 100 feet. Mike's comments are detached from reality.


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