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Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup


Point Rank: # 49
Total Points: 7,161
Last Year: 469
Last 30 Days: 3
436 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 1982 | Routes 173 | Areas 32 | Photos 906 | Page Improvements | Comments 421 | Posts 39 | Stars 327 | Ratings 84
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Le Fissure King (V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 20, 2009

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Comments: "Le Fissure King: V3 **
Sit-Start the crack. A long and painful lock leads to good edges. Stand start is V0."

Banks, Bob. Ocean's Eleven: Bouldering around Santa Barbara. Self published, 2003. page 82.


Location: Matthew Fienup : Bolt Info : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 16, 2009

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Comments: For more information from Duane Raleigh and others, visit the American Safe Climbing Association.

Mechanical Bolts - the Nuts & Bolts, by Duane Raleigh

Dangerous Bolts - Bolts to Avoid, by Duane Raleigh


Location: Matthew Fienup : Bolt Info : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 16, 2009

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Comments: In regard to my parenthetical note about Central Coast Sandstone...

In the study, Duane Raleigh actually tested bolts in custom-made blocks, which were chosen for their specific hardnesses. Soft Rock was simulated using 1,000 psi concrete. Medium Rock was simulated using 2,000 psi concrete. Hard Rock was simulated using tombstone-grade marble and granite blocks.

Here on the Central Coast, I have seen sandstone that is likely softer than 1,000psi (the Foot and parts of San Ysidro co... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 4, 2009

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Comments: As an interesting footnote to this image...
On the day of the climb, standing at the base, I had a debate with myself. Should I bring the SLR and the heavy glass? Or should I stash that 5 pounds of gear and settle for the point-and-shoot (which at that time, was just 5 MP).

I had never climbed the route, and although I was not planning to lead the first pitch squeeze, I new that I would be leading much of the route above. After several minutes of internal back-and-forth, I stashed the SLR an... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 4, 2009

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Comments: Erik Anderson's route "Natural Rate of Unemployment" (5.10) climbs a plumb line below the top of "Capitalism & Freedom."


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 4, 2009

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Comments: Erik Anderson's route "Natural Rate of Unemployment" (5.10) climbs a plumb line below the top of "Capitalism & Freedom."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Touch and Go Face : Touch and Go (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: Spectacular!


Location: joshf : misc : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: Unbelievable shot!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: That roof was the clear crux of the route for me.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 5, 2009

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Comments: Looks like the top of the second.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Tree Root (5.5) : Photo (Copy)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 23, 2009

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Comments: You actually can not see the bottom ten feet of the route. What appears to be the ground is the dirt alongside the road, at the feet of the photographer (fully 80 feet back from the wall).


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : Chouinard Special (5.8+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: Originally rated 5.8 X. Subsequently, four lead bolts were added to protect what had been a 30 foot runout on the first pitch.



Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Close To The Edge (5.9 PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: Originally rated 5.10R


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern...
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: A friend of mine lost a camera here, on Monday, October 12. Although the camera probably did not survive the heavy rainfall of October 13 & 14, the hope is that the memory card survived.

If you happen to find the camera, please contact me. Thank you.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Sentinel Peak : Cosmo the Cosmic Crow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: The final pitch (about 5.9) of this route is the best way to reach the summit of Sentinel Peak. To access the final pitch, follow the hiker's trail around to the back (north side) of the peak. Follow a ledge system around the west side of the summit block until you arrive on the south side of the formation. The final pitch is located in a recess, in the center of the south face. See topo for details.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Sentinel Peak
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: For twelve weeks during the summer months, scout camp participants hike Sentinel Peak EVERY weekday morning to catch the sunrise. On these days, you can expect a crowd of between 10 and 50 people.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern...
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: To be even more specific: park on the east side of the road, in the turnout just below the southern flank of the crag (70 yards down the road from a point below the center of the crag). A well developed climbers trail starts in this turnout and diagonals upward to the center of the crag.

Directly below the center of the dome is a boulder-filled gully that uninitiated climbers (like us, last week) clearly use to access the crag. The gully is no fun.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Unknown, South of Tree Rout... (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 14, 2009

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Comments: This is an AWESOME first pitch alternate to Anti-Jello. From the bolted anchor, head straight up into the classic tips crack.

The route is also a useful diversion while waiting in line for the Tree Route.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : The Lieback (5.5)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 13, 2009

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Comments: I climbed this route with very limited beta--just what is available in the Needles Guidebook. I am RELIEVED to see that other folks have graded this route 5.8. This was a sustained and challenging lead--at least as hard as the classic lieback on White Punks.

I expected a walk in the park...
Instead, I got absolutely awesome 5.8 endurance liebacking. This route is like a Tobin's Dihedral... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Saddle-Up Cupcake (5.9-) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: A-Frame roof and the top of Exodus is visible in the top right corner of this photo.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Saddle-Up Cupcake (5.9-)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: This route still has some loose rock on the upper slab, especially near the third bolt. Should clean up nicely with some travel--the rock is similar to that on Ezra, Little Buckaroo, and Blush.

CORRECTION: that'd be Exodus, Little Buckaroo, and Blush.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 9, 2009

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Comments: The wall on the left-hand side of this photo is home to It is It & Aquaphobia


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : The Notch Route (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 24, 2009

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Comments: This route is one of my very favorite ways to introduce people to climbing in Yosemite. Simply awesome.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Lower Gibraltar : Lieback Annie (5.7)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 24, 2009

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Comments: Following the Jesusita fire, that burned up and over this formation, the glue-in bolts atop this route are loose. They can both be rotated slightly in their holes.

Do not trust these bolts...and stay tuned for a replacement.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Scrub Job (5.9+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 19, 2009

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Comments: This route utilizes the bolt above the left-hand side of the large hole. The bolt above the right-hand side of the hole is Chavez/Mosher.

I believe that Scrub Job has 4 bolts.


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