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Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup


Point Rank: # 50
Total Points: 6,922
Last Year: 504
Last 30 Days: 17
391 Compliments
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All (1906) | Routes (170) | Areas (32) | Photos (870) | Comments (393) | Posts (38) | Stars (319) | Ratings (84)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Free to Choose (5.8+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 17, 2009

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Comments: The top of this route is equipped with Metolius Rap Hangers--thick, oversized hangers that are designed to have the rope fed directly through the hanger for rappels.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume : Left (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 14, 2009

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Comments: When I climbed this route yesterday, it actually felt easier than the 5.8 immediately to its right.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 14, 2009

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Comments: It is currently against the law to remove, replace or add bolts to the wall at Point Dume. The State Park is actively enforcing this law. Violators can be charged with a misdemeanor (CCR 4307a) and have their gear confiscated.

The State Park's District Environmental Coordinator would like to see an explicit ban on climbing at this site, so all climbers should be advised.

In particular, please stay on developed trails when walking to the top of the cliff. Observe all posted signs.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tobin's Dihedral (5.10+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 11, 2009

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Comments: About halfway through the endurance crux, it is possible to stem across the dihedral on small knobs and to achieve a much-needed rest.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 11, 2009

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Comments: I was able to link the first and second pitches by doing 30-40 feet of simul-climbing. Does anyone know if a 70m rope is long enough to connect these two pitches?


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Left Crack (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 11, 2009

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Comments: The traverse that starts the first pitch is intimidating; although, it protects very well. I climbed with my feet a full 6+ feet below the crack the entire way. The rest of the climb was surprisingly cruiser.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Little Buckaroo (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: Believe it or not, when Jesse and I climbed this route, we were not even high enough that we could've touched the roof had we wanted to. We traversed below the third and fourth bolts. This also means that we did not clean any of the loose rock above the roof.

And the rock felt like Yosemite granite compared to the Fortress ;)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu : Mugu Slab : Classic Dihedral (5.8) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 5, 2009

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Comments: The clean blocks visible in the talus at the bottom of this photo are blocks from the dihedral that collapsed.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu : Mugu Slab : Classic Dihedral (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 5, 2009

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Comments: I climbed this route about 8 years ago, after the collapse of part of the dihedral. All of the gear was scary. And as mentioned in the route description, the walk off was daunting enough that I actually chose to downclimb the route, cleaning my gear as I went.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 5, 2009

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Comments: Mugu is esoteric beyond belief. I have logged dozens and dozens of days at this site and something keeps me coming back for more.

The Mugu experience is one of a kind.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 28, 2009

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Comments: Very good Greg...thank you.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Derrydale Cliff
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 25, 2009

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Comments: Even during the hottest days of summer (today it was 95-degrees at the crag), Derrydale stays in the shade until about 1pm. It was downright pleasant...until 1pm.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 25, 2009

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Comments: That'd be the Warlock (prominent Needle in the center), as viewed from Voodoo Dome. S-Crack is clearly visible snaking it's way up the formation.

The Wizard and the Magician are also visible.

Beautiful.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 25, 2009

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Comments: I like the big piece because it can be placed out left, where the short undercling turns to the runout layback. This big piece out left will keep you from swinging back into the dihedral if you come off of the layback section.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Sanitarium (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: While Sanitarium ends after only one pitch, it is possible to continue to the top of the Dome by climbing Insanity (5.9), a striking layback to undercling feature, that begins right from the top of Sanitarium. After climbing the first pitch of Insanity, traverse left beneath the Great Arch and exit out the left side.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: In 2008, one of the rungs pulled out. A generous soul then installed a solid bolt atop the ladder and added a fixed line to aid in the now-more-difficult descent.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Langley
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: Cottonwood Lakes ranks as one of my very favorite locations in the High Sierra. Old Army Pass, above Lake 4 in the Cottonwood Lakes, is a spectacular and improbably easy approach to Mount Langley.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Le Fissure King (V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: Quite possibly my favorite boulder problem in Santa Barbara!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 15, 2009

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Comments: The Cracked Boulder is one of my favorite pieces of rock in the entire Santa Barbara area. The Fissure King is a must do!


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Fancy Free (5.10) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 8, 2009

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Comments: This is one of my favorite photos in the whole Needles Section! Spectacular!!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: There is no reason to add a lower first bolt as it is very easy to stick clip the existing first bolt. The first clip was scary even when the wooden ledge was there.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: Here is a printable topo of the Witch West Face routes from Alexander Cooper & Clint Cummins' Needles Mini Guide


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Fancy Free (5.10)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: Here is a printable topo of Fancy Free from Alexander Cooper & Clint Cummins' Needles Mini Guide

Agreed, there's no bolted belay atop P1, but you can belay from bolts atop P2, if you forgo the ledge.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Gemstone (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: Here is a printable topo of Gemstone from Alexander Cooper & Clint Cummins' Needles Mini Guide


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Spooky (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: Here is a printable topo of Spooky from Alexander Cooper & Clint Cummins' Needles Mini Guide


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