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Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup

Point Rank: # 51
Total Points: 7,537
Last Year: 184
Last 30 Days: 0
573 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2137 | Routes 175 | Areas 32 | Photos 962 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 494 | Posts 52 | Stars 335 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 11, 2013

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Comments: Have to agree with Ted. You're a chump if you don't get to lead the 2nd pitch. If swinging leads, this also sets you up for the fourth (crux) pitch!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Lower Kern River Canyon Bou...
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: The Moser/Vernon/Paul guidebook refers to 3 different developed crags along the Lower Kern Canyon. These include:
the Gymnasium - a sport climbing area located on the north side of the Kern River, near milepost 24 on Hwy-178. There is another crag located on a steep cliff above the river approximately 5 miles downstream.
Owl Rock - Cracks and chimneys up a tower located on the south side of Hwy-178, at 2000 feet elevation, approximately 20 miles east of Bakersfield. There are 4... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Moon Doggies (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: Swiped two different times, actually.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Magic Feather (5.10a/b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: You just have to believe...
You just have to believe...



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : The Soul (5.11b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2013

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Comments: I don't recall there ever being a second set of anchors for the Gibbon/Soul. I've always used the anchors atop A Route Runs Through It et al. or built a traditional anchor.

The face to the right has long been a top-rope (and referred to in guidebooks). There is a single bolt on top that can be combined with bushes or a 3-inch cam to make a top rope anchor.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : Initiation Crack (5.10d)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: I have big hands, but I'm also 6'-1" with a +3" reach. I was able to stand on the horizontal seam/ledge near the base and reach high for a nice finger lock. I guess this is a tall-guy route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 8, 2013

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Comments: Holy sh--! This is seriously awful. Not only is Larry in one of those photos but there is at least one long-time local climber who should know better...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 8, 2013

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Comments: Is this a recent event?

I am aware of an occasion more than five years ago when a Forest Service ranger (one who cares deeply about Lizard's Mouth and who has worked closely with climbers for many years) hired someone to bring a power washer up to Lizard's Mouth to experiment with its use for graffiti removal. After employing a large team of individuals to haul a generator and compressor into the site, the experiment was shut down after about 5 minutes. It very quickly became obvious that the ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Myth of Silenus (V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: Alaxender, I would point you to Andy's excellent example. From the Rattlesnake Canyon Crag page:

"I'm not the first person to try developing this area. I've found old anchors, rusty bolts, and sundry evidence of past climbing shenanigans."

In the Santa Barbara area, you should assume that any particular piece of rock has already been climbed.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Summit Blocks - East (Main) : Dig A Pony (5.10d)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 17, 2012

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Comments: Beautiful, balancy crux just above the second bolt. Make sure you're on the left side of that bolt.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: For a rappel-topo and interesting historical notes, visit here


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Klingon (5.9 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 10, 2012

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Comments: Sorry for not being more clear. As Andy indicates, when top-rope belaying from the base of the route, you could lower the climber off the end of the rope and drop them down Gibraltar Gully.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: For automobile aficionados:
Where does Car & Driver Magazine go to test drive a 500-hp super car?..

Highway-33, of course. Look for Wheeler Gorge in this video


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Myth of Silenus (V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 3, 2012

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Comments: Alexander,
You reap what you sow.

I would refer you to your comments on the Wasp, at Sespe Gorge, not to mention Foothill Crag.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 3, 2012

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Comments: Happy footnote...
This photo was taken during the best first date of my life. We were engaged within months and have now been married for over 8 years. Just one more reason that I absolutely love this route.

[Make that 10 years!!]


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Fire Crags : Face the Seam (5.10a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: I don't think these are 1/4-inchers. Memory tells me that they are actually 3/8" externally-threaded sleeve bolts like this. The bolts are not good, but definitely better than 1/4".

Is there still a second set of bolts located 8 feet or so higher up the wall/gully, above the cold shuts?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Natural Rate of Unemploymen... (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: You are likely referring to Adaptive Expectations


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Face Lift (5.7 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 28, 2012

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Comments: This is the first time that I have heard of Mosher & Roland being accused of sanitizing a route...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Great Race (5.10a) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: I've definitely seen some scary swings--several people ending up in the trees in the bottom of the photo, after falling lower on the route. No shortage of cuts and scrapes.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Test Site : Intellitoys (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Above the break, this route boasts excellent rock, by area standards.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Tea Room : Fen Gliddich (5.10a/b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Only 5.9 if you use liberal stemming between the arete and the wall to the right. Super fun, nonetheless--airy and exposed.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Economique (5.10a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: The new bolt is in bad taste. Climbers who were sketched out by the runout to the first bolt had at least two options for making this safe.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: This new bolt is tacky. If Gould & Agulara had wanted a lower bolt, they would have added one. As mentioned earlier, anyone who is uncomfortable with the runout to the first bolt (and I am among these individuals) can either carry a cam or use a stick clip.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: And you forgot to mention the constant highway noise...


Esoteric, for sure : )


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: To avoid the 4th class approach referred to in previous posts, I highly recommend taking the climbers trail up the ridge from Hole in the Rock (directly above the parking for Gibraltar) and then rappelling in from the top of the cliff. There is a well maintained trail leading right to the top of the cliff.

Be aware, a 70m rope only touches the base when the rope is weighted (and stretched)--most routes here are just over 35m tall.


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