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Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup

Point Rank: # 49
Total Points: 7,412
Last Year: 329
Last 30 Days: 53
586 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2092 | Routes 173 | Areas 32 | Photos 945 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 474 | Posts 50 | Stars 331 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Tea Room : Fen Gliddich (5.10a/b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Only 5.9 if you use liberal stemming between the arete and the wall to the right. Super fun, nonetheless--airy and exposed.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Economique (5.10a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: The new bolt is in bad taste. Climbers who were sketched out by the runout to the first bolt had at least two options for making this safe.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: This new bolt is tacky. If Gould & Agulara had wanted a lower bolt, they would have added one. As mentioned earlier, anyone who is uncomfortable with the runout to the first bolt (and I am among these individuals) can either carry a cam or use a stick clip.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: And you forgot to mention the constant highway noise...


Esoteric, for sure : )


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: To avoid the 4th class approach referred to in previous posts, I highly recommend taking the climbers trail up the ridge from Hole in the Rock (directly above the parking for Gibraltar) and then rappelling in from the top of the cliff. There is a well maintained trail leading right to the top of the cliff.

Be aware, a 70m rope only touches the base when the rope is weighted (and stretched)--most routes here are just over 35m tall.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Queen Mountain Bouldering : The Underground : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 19, 2012

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Comments: Yuccas happen to be agaves (subfamily Agavoideae)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Color Blind (aka Rubber Man... (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 12, 2012

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Comments: A decisive foothold finally fell off at the crux of this route. The 10c sequence past the first bolt is now a few moves instead of simply one hard move.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Face Lift (5.7 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: It's amazing...the friction is so good this time of year (while the route is in the shade all day long) that the harder version of P2 feels like 5.9 or 9+. In the heat of summer, with afternoon sun on the wall, this pitch feels more like 5.10b.

Go climb this thing before Spring arrives!!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Bee Line (5.7 PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 6, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this route again today and had a great time! No move felt harder than 5.6, but the route is fairly sustained for the grade and many sections feel insecure due to the lichen. Half way up the second pitch we moved 8 feet right and followed a parallel crack up to a large pine tree. This right-hand crack appeared to offer much better gear options.

We did a 150 foot rappel from trees high on the wall and then a second 120 rappel from the mid-station.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: My compliments to the anchor builder. That cam is clearly oriented in the anticipated direction of pull.


Location: Matthew Fienup : Miscellaneous : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 12, 2011

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Comments: That's a great suggestion, Darren.

Here, this is also a fairly long traverse, so it is nice to be able to hang and rest at the midpoint, before climbing out to the other side.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : Fistful of Crystals (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: If this route would ever clean up (it won't!) this would be one of the better routes at the crag. The moves are fun, it's just loose.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : The Good, the Bad, and the ... (5.9) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 25, 2011

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Comments: I first became aware of this cool variation to The Good, the Bad & the Ugly when a climbing partner of mine got desperate while trying to lead that route. As mentioned elsewhere, the 7th clip on the route can be very challenging to make. My partner had a cam in the crack and was frantically trying to find a comfortable position from which to make the 7th clip. Fighting the pump, he gave up entirely on the 7th bolt and ran out the crack up to the top of the wall.

When I returned and decided ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Derrydale Cliff : Mammoth Poaching (5.10b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 17, 2011

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Comments: This route has cleaned up and gotten easier. Small flakes have broken off leaving behind larger, positive edges. The crux climbing past bolts 2 and 3 involves fun mantling off of a few very nice edges followed by big reaches.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 16, 2011

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Comments: Today, we experienced the worst swarm of flies that I have ever encountered in the Sespe area--that includes over 10 years of climbing here. Sespe, Potrero, the Fortress and Derrydale Cliff all seem to be overrun.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Danger Boy (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: I also noticed what Joe mentioned. The decisive hold has broken off at the crux. The route now feels 11b/11c to me. Still just a one-move wonder though.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Derrydale Cliff
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 31, 2011

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Comments: Matt Greco equipped and led both of the routes that Stuart Ruckman explored on the left side side of the wall. Matt reports that the one line went at 5.11 while the other is 5.12.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : The Ecstacy of Gold (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 23, 2011

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Comments: After having spent a dozen or so days at this crag during the past 6 months, my appreciation for this route has increased significantly. I have actually grown to regard this route as the best at the crag. The rock is good and the technical, sequential climbing has remained interesting even after the n-th ascent.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : 2 Hour 2 Tecate Challenge (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 26, 2011

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Comments: According to the logic that some are trying to apply at another Central Coast crag, the nine routes that make up the Tecate Challenge should now be removed from the database and should heretofore be represented as a single route that is only 6 pitches long.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 9, 2011

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Comments: And as you already know, I did see some brittle stars while climbing above Ojai: photo


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Dolphin (5.7) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 2, 2011

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Comments: Wearing shorts on an offwidth like this is truly badass. Give me some Carhartts.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: As of May 26, the road to the Needles Lookout trailhead as well as the lower road through the Kern River Valley (past Lower Peppermint Campground and Voodoo Dome) were both still closed.

Please post a comment if you know the roads to be open.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Left Crack (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: The first pitch of this route is an absolute must-do...one of the best pitches of climbing on the dome.

In regard to Brian's comment, there are at least three variations atop the layback pillar...two to the left and one to the right.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Anti-Jello Crack (5.10a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: To add to what Bryan said, the bolts atop P2 are bomber 1/2" Rawls, replaced in 2012. The bolts atop P3 were replaced by the ASCA several years ago.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Lower Gibraltar : Warrior Crack (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 29, 2011

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Comments: Thank you, THANK YOU for exploring this route and then posting. I have long wondered exactly where this route went. The photos are especially helpful. I'll be sure to climb it ASAP.


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