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Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup

Point Rank: # 49
Total Points: 7,412
Last Year: 329
Last 30 Days: 37
589 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2092 | Routes 173 | Areas 32 | Photos 945 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 474 | Posts 50 | Stars 331 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Matthew Fienup : Favorite Photographs : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Wesley's older brother, Bryson has to do this move static. Wesley wheels around with his legs and does a crazy dynamic move to transition onto the rail on the left.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: If only I had this kid's strength-to-weight ratio…Here's the full sequence.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Half Ascent (5.6 R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Both of the aging bolts on the orange line depicted above have been replaced. One of the original bolts was a 1/4" button head that popped out of the wall after a nut tool was slid beneath the hanger--it wouldn't have even held body weight.

Two 1/2" Rawls now protect seriously runout, 5.7 face climbing.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Wadka (5.7 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: Very common and worthwhile top-rope after rappelling from the bolted anchor to the right of Ending Crack.


Location: Midwest : The Devils Lake top rope cl... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: The red cord is definitely inexplicable, but assuming that the two traditional pieces are solid, that looks like it could be a bomb-proof anchor. Inefficient for sure, but not necessarily sketchy.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this route in June. All bolts were good.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Ghostbumps (5.10b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: From route contributor Josh Janes:
After summiting the Warlock, it is possible to rap down the north face over what appears to be a newly established climb. It has lots of new bolts (unfortunately these bolts are not stainless steel and will need replacing sooner rather than later). We TR'd the climb with 120 meters of rope -- the first pitch checked in at easy 5.10 (and had an intermediate belay), the second at hard 5.11. The climbing was quite cool -- up knobs and chickenheads and through s... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: Awesome!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Peels of Laughter (5.7 R) : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: I'd say that's a long 60m. Eight or 9 of my 60m ropes haven't quite reached.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Did the striped racer get a meal?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Most painful on the continent!

Second to whom?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Magician : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Oh, man. 2002? Was it that long ago?!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Many Happy Returns (5.9+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Someone keeps swiping the rap-hangers. There's also one missing from atop Peels. I'm done replacing them...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Classy, Jon. Thanks.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Nice historic shot of the porta-ledge that once graced the start of this route. It left the wall some time in 2008.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: This is a great photo of Andy leading the now-controversial 5.12b face using only the original bolts.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: This conversation has been moved to climbing forum. To read more, please visit:
mountainproject.com/v/goulara-...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: Cassidy, welcome to Mountain Project!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for clarifying about the history of the fifth bolt. I stand by my earlier statement that the fifth (as well as the fourth) is unnecessary and an infringement of Goulara.

Sean, thanks for weighing in again. I realize that there are two climbers pictured. Both photos were taken during the first lead effort. 3/8" will get the job done if the rock is sufficiently hard. Duane Raleigh did some good work on this. That issue seems entirely secondary to ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: The first three bolts are definitely independent of the climbing on the route called Goulara. They are a "direct start" to Goulara and should have necessitated permission from the first ascentionists.

Bolts 4 and 5 of the newly added bolts are a clear case of "Should I clip with my right hand or should I clip with my left?" As this photo shows, the new bolts infringe on Goulara in a glaring way. This part of the face can easily be led on Goulara's existing bolts:


Red - Goulara Purple - new bolts  (bolts 2-5 visib...
Red - Goulara
Purple - new bolts
(bolts 2-5 visible)


In fact, thi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: Photo taken Friday, April 3.
Goulara topo
Goulara topo


EDIT: In case anyone worries, the original file is over 9,000 pixels tall and the bolt locations are clearly visible. Drop me a message if you'd like to see the image without the Photoshopped bolt marks.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: This is unambiguous about both the original location of Goulara and about the open project now known as Economique:

Edwards Guidebook
Edwards Guidebook



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: John, I think you are bringing shame to the handlebar mustache and the aviator glasses. In some ways these new bolts are ethically worse than a single lower bolt (added by a naive amateur who is new to the area and doesn't understand the local history, ethos and ethics).

Gould and Agulara opened one of the most striking formations in the Ojai area. They put up a stout 5.11+/5.12 route (Reese Martin called it 5.12b) on the face that now houses Sean's "completely different route." The bottom thr... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: Sean, thanks for entering the conversation. "Pretty fuckin fun lead" is exactly what the individual who added the bolt to Goulara was thinking. Where do we draw a line?

John, I find your reaction to this truly surprising given your Chuck Ethics reaction to the Goulara bolt. Please tell me again why that bolt was offensive.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: John and Andy, thanks for weighing in. When I bolted Economique, I used the first three bolts of Goulara to access the face around the corner. In my estimation, I did not alter Goulara in any way. The first new bolt is on the face around the corner to the left--the bolts actually protect the face left of the arete and are not on the arete. Does that seem like an encroachment on Goulara? Let me know if you think I'm being hypocritical. (I'd hate to be opposite Chuck Ethics.)

The bolts in questi... more >>


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