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Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup


Point Rank: # 50
Total Points: 6,922
Last Year: 505
Last 30 Days: 38
391 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All (1904) | Routes (170) | Areas (32) | Photos (870) | Comments (392) | Posts (38) | Stars (318) | Ratings (84)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: 2 days ago

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Comments: There's nothing burly about me. I'm hiding behind the camera on this one.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Unknown, Left of Cobble Cli... (5.9+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: 3/8" bolts down low; 1/2" bolts up high; seems to defy logic in terms fall forces...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Sonny Trotter & Barry Blanchard spotting.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Retreating from most routes would be exceedingly difficult without 2 ropes. Retreating from a few routes would be impossible without 2 ropes.

I once had to make a harrowing descent down the side of the Magician, using a single 60m rope. Since there are spots on the Magician where descending with a single rope is impossible, we had to do a long, improbable traversing pitch to gain a crack system that allowed for a single-rope descent. Everything worked out in the end, but life would have been va... more >>


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Thin Ice (5.10b) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 7, 2014

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Comments: Awesome!! One of the best photos from an area saturated with great photos!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : La Cumbre Peak : Earthwatch Wall : Arlington - Cathedral - La ... (5.7+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Awesome work. Any photos to share?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : The Wheel (5.11)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 22, 2014

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Comments: I've stared at this for over a decade. Even tried to scramble up on 2 different occasions to check it out. The approach alone turned me back. Solid work.

Alex, have you looked at the wall up and right from the top of Danger Boy & Velocity Boy? You might be just the person to open that awesome looking wall.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Unknown, Left of Cobble Cli... (5.9+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 20, 2014

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Comments: I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing on this route. The crux move arrives at the first bolt. Rock over onto a high right foot to pull past the roof. The next three bolts are interesting 5.8 climbing. Then things ease up.

Still has a lot of lichen, but it did not detract too much.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: I'm not surprised, Ryan. Sespe Gorge got 18 inches (!!) of rain last weekend. I assume that the unstable rock is on the slope across from the Fortress parking area--the one in the background here. It slides routinely with just moderate rain.

Thank you for posting this closure.

UPDATE: The closure has been extended for 2-3 more weeks. Story here


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 1, 2014

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Comments: Incredible--
Ventura County Watershed Protection District is reporting 18 inches of rainfall at Sespe Gorge during the past 2 days. Twelve inches fell down at Matilija Canyon. The Ventura County Star is reporting that 12 people were airlifted out of Sespe Creek after being stranded on Friday.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Shelf Ridge : Couch Rock
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: Can't wait to see photos! Thanks for posting these routes.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments:
Destroying a Geological Resource
Destroying a Geological Resource

For those interested in the recent history of this site, a bolt replacement effort was undertaken in 2009 with generous support from the American Safe Climbing Association. The effort was interrupted (with lights flashing and sirens blaring) when two volunteers were detained by State Park law enforcement and cited for "Destroying a Geological Resource." The situation became very serious when the State Park's District Environmental Coordinator expre... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Tall T (5.10b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: The left-hand alternate, which starts on Banana Split and then traverses right after that route's first bolt, is HIGHLY recommended. This allows you to skip some extremely scary rock on Tall T's first 3-4 bolts. Two dedicated bolts protect the travers over to Tall T. As mentioned by others the second half of Tall T exhibits good rock and great movement.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: Saturday, January 18, saw 20 people from 7 different parties climbing at the Fortress. That must be a one day record. I guess the word is out.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : Snickerdoodle (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 13, 2014

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Comments: The hole is a false-start. We ended up putting a bolt below this and another above this. No bolt has been removed.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 6, 2014

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Comments: The two routes to the left of Economique are (or were) Monstrosity (5.11c) and 8 Lives (5.12-). The rock that housed the first few bolts of the two routes collapsed several years ago, rendering them unclimbable.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ezra (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 30, 2013

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Comments: There are holes like these all over the walls of the gorge (even where no routes exist). On Ezra specifically, there have been no knew holes in the past 15 years.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart : Roger's Roof (5.8) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: Twins!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag (AKA Rattl... : the Labrador Ate the Cupcak... (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: I think you'd be hard-pressed to find ANOTHER 5.6 sport route in SB ;)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Iceberg Boulder : Baby Steps (5.5)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 8, 2013

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Comments: Does anyone know the history of this route and Girl Power? The top anchors look like aging, sketchy button-heads, yet the routes are listed as having FAs done in 2004. Are the lead bolts on the face modern hardware?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Oh, come on! Don't leave us hanging like this. You've got to show us the next photo in the series...of Richard pulling the crux. Please.

(great photos--leaves me wanting more!)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: 100 feet downstream of Ezra, there is the carcass of a mature 40-foot tall Cottonwood tree laying across the stream. Against the wall on one side is a 3-foot tall stump with axe scars all over it. What is going on in this place? Is this part of a new route setting effort?


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Do you remember how hard that middle crack felt? Thanks for commenting!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Aquaphobia (5.12)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: As described in the Edwards guidebook, it also goes at 5.11 A0--that is 5.11 "French-free."


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Exposed and thought-provoking - 11 bolts into the route, Romain is confronted with a 20+ foot lead fall if he comes off at this point.


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