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Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup

Point Rank: # 54
Total Points: 7,569
Last Year: 133
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2156 | Routes 175 | Areas 32 | Photos 966 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 506 | Posts 53 | Stars 337 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ojai Urinal (5.11+ V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: 21 hours ago

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Comments: I need to start taking screen shots of classic comments before their authors (or the admins?) think twice and take them down.

"...step in a couple of squeezed piles before climbing a couple of squeezed piles..."

One of my all time favorites.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Economique (5.10a) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: 3 days ago

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Comments: It looks like Derek is mid-crux.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ojai Urinal (5.11+ V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 31, 2016

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Comments: William, I am going to take issue with your math. At least nine different locals have weighed in here and in the comments for neighboring routes to protest the recent antics.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Moving the bolt to poorer quality rock or to a location that infringes on the neighboring route should not be considered.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Lost Trout (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: It could certainly be worse:



Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: For many years, there has been a set of belay bolts located down and right of the (now missing) tree at the end of the first pitch of Tree Route. The bolts are on the first pitch of the route Last Homely House.

When I was guiding in the area back in the 90s, I would often lead the first pitch of Tree Route and then climb right, clipping one bolt on the route Arwen to reach this anchor. The first pitch of Last Homely House is a nice top-rope for beginners. As I recall, there is even a second to... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Vlad. the Impaler (5.3 A1) : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: How difficult was it to pull these?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: SPECTACULAR!!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Vlad. the Impaler (5.3 A1)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: I don't think I've seen stainless compression bolts before. All of the ones I've replaced have been plated. I guess I've also never seen NEW compression bolts--that seems like an oxymoron.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Vlad. the Impaler (5.3 A1)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Is this new hardware or the original?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Prophet
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: Jonathan, thanks so much for posting!

I'm very curious about the location of this cliff. Below is a map with the Magician and then a detail shot. Is this where you climbed? Thanks for clarifying. Any additional info would be appreciated!

Rock Climbing Photo: The Magician (and the Prophet??)
The Magician (and the Prophet??)


Rock Climbing Photo: Detail - the Prophet??
Detail - the Prophet??

This photo shows a detail of the area inside the red circle in the first photo. Is this the Prophet?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ripple Rider (5.8) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Wesley is only 6 years old in this photo, which might make the upper part of the route look bigger than it is.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ripple Rider (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: This route is a great addition to the area!

There is one height dependent move at the crux--might feel like one move of 5.9 for shorter climbers. The crux is very well protected with a bolt (the third bolt) at your chest.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: The headwall is quite a bit steeper than the wide angle lens makes it appear.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: I've said it elsewhere, but I can't repeat it enough - this is quite surely the single best moderate route on the entire Central Coast.


Quick photography note: the headwall is off-vertical, but the wide angle lens makes it look less steep than it actually is.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Lower Gibraltar : Chimney Sweep (5.8- PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: Tom,thank you for the contributions to Mountain Project--as if pioneering the routes was't enough!

This route was not very climbable for years and years, on account of a healthy Bay Tree which grew out of the crack about 1/2 way up. The Jesusita Fire took care of the tree and now the route is climbable again. It's a very worthy climb!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Riders of the Purple Sage (5.7)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: Pretty good route overall, though not nearly as good as Eye for Eye. The rock quality on this one gets worse the higher you climb--it might be preferable to skip the last three bolts and finish in the crack to the right (D&D).

Lowered off with a 70m and had just a few feet of extra rope on either end.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : A Walk On The Wild Side (5.7+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: This is almost surely the worst bolting job at MST.

Rock Climbing Photo: A Walk on the Wild Side bolt
A Walk on the Wild Side bolt

Apparently the lead bolt on the right is the good one.


Rock Climbing Photo: A Walk on the Wild Side bolt
A Walk on the Wild Side bolt

Yet when you look closely at the bolt on the right you notice that you're hanging from just a couple of threads.


Rock Climbing Photo: A Walk on the Wild Side bolt
A Walk on the Wild Side bolt

Higher on the route, you clip this bolt. With a little luck, if you fall, the rock will not break the carabiner.

All in all, it might be best to top-rope this route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : A Walk On The Wild Side (5.7+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: This is hands-down the most aesthetic line at MST. Steep and exposed with quality movement.

A fair amount of loose rock--but no more than you'd expect at this crag.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Lost in the Sespe (5.7+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: This is a very exciting addition to Sespe Gorge! Thank you, Alex.

It's worth noting that this route connects with the upper section of the Sespe Classic McTavish.
Rock Climbing Photo: McTavish - yellow
McTavish - yellow



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Saddle-Up Cupcake (5.9-)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: Unfortunately, the rock quality heading up and left was sketchy. A few large features broke during exploration.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Eye For an Eye (5.7)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 8, 2016

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Comments: Today we climbed to the top anchor shown in the Bishop Area Rock Climbs book and in this topo. This variation has only 9 or 10 bolts, not 12 as indicated in the guide book. When we tried to lower off on a 70m rope, we ended up fully 20 feet short -- it is not possible to lower off with a 70 as the guidebook claims.

Terrific route though! There is one thought-provoking move well above the 8th bolt.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Danger Boy (5.11a) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Could this be Ezra?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Magician : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 25, 2016

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Comments: Only on MP could '11 pitches up' be called an ordinary scene ;)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 16, 2015

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Comments: Correct. You need a 70m rope to rappel the route.

With a 60m rope, you can walk over to the top of Tender Flakes and rappel that route.


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