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Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 7,282
Last Year: 415
Last 30 Days: 58
502 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2038 | Routes 173 | Areas 32 | Photos 924 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 449 | Posts 43 | Stars 330 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Toxic Waste Wall
By: Matthew Fienup When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Upper Gibraltar is in pretty fine shape. A Route Runs Through it has seen many of its lead bolts and 3//8" coldshut hangers replaced. And the rock on this formation was never seriously damaged by the Jesusita Fire.

At last check, the story at the Toxic Waste Wall was another matter. Tons (literally) of rock was blasted off this wall by the rapid expansion of water under the intense heat of the fire. Any bolts that have not been replaced since the Jesusita fire should be treated with suspicion.... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: This site has seen several chapters of development. Prior to being developed as a sport-climbing site in the 90s, MST was apparently used for aid practice. There are the remnants of old aid lines which consist of pasted copperheads and quarter-inch button-heads. These historical artifacts litter the various boulders and walls and contribute to a unique atmosphere.

Early 90s development turned the site into an accessible, first-generation sport climbing crag. Routes from this era are generally v... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Torgo (V-easy)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: This is on the formation being called Count Crackula.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: There are actually 2 trailheads. You can park in front of this one, the first that is encountered along Lesser Drive. You can also turn the corner to the left onto Calle Alta Vista. There is a second trailhead located 100 feet up on the left.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: Routes on each wall are listed left to right.

Follow Your Bliss Wall
Three's Company (5.8)
Follow Your Bliss (5.11b)

Infinity of the Depths Boulder
The Infinity of the Depths of a Man's Mind (5.10+)

Hidden in corridor behind Infinity of the Depths (right of Push the Button):
Manos, Hands of Fate (5.10a)
Daddy-O (5.10c)

Push the Button Wall
Push the Button, Frank (5.8)

Beginning of the End Wall
A Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+)
The Beginning of the ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing this.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : The Lieback (5.5) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: Beautiful HDR image!!

The dihedral is actually quite a bit steeper than it looks here.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Rotten Bananas (5.7)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: I thought that this route felt easier than Bananarama by a full grade. It also felt better protected. The route's hardest moves seem to all have a chest-high bolt. By comparison, I remember pulling two different 5.8 cruxes on Bananarama, where the bolt was well below my feet.

This is an awesome route on one of the coolest formations in the Hills.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: I second Andy's endorsement of 1/2" Rawls for Santa Barbara.

The deal with Glue-ins in SB seems to be this --
The cartridge application seems to work well since the components are already mixed before they go into the hole and the glue is more viscous, impregnating the rock just the right amount. With glue capsules, like those sold by Petzl, the liquid inside the capsule seems to absorb completely into the porous sandstone surrounding the whole before all of the various components can mix. The... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: This is the top of P3. One more pitch to the summit


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: Special thanks to fighter pilot Ian S. for sharing his stories and the link to this video. To see the low-elevation fly-over of the Needles and Hermit Spire, check out 7:30 and 8:32




Needles fly-by
Needles fly-by



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: Someone has swiped Fixe Ring Anchors from atop two different routes at San Ysidro and replaced them with old-school SMC bolt hangers. A cute little joke?...retaliation for the bolts added to Vanishing Flakes??

In any case, you'll need to leave hardware behind or walk off, until the rap-hangers have been replaced.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 14, 2015

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Comments: Crazy, crazy. The bolts added to VF are hardware-store variety 3/8" externally-threaded sleeve bolts. These are only 1/4" in diameter where the hanger loads the bolt. It would be much safer to clip the drilled piton. The midway anchor consists of 3/8" cold shuts (not even the 1/2-inchers that we used to see at Wheeler Gorge and elsewhere). These beauties have been shown to have a 74% variation in breaking strength.

The mad bolter didn't e... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 4, 2015

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Comments: The route's lone bolt was replaced 2-3 years ago. The 5/16-inch stud was replaced with a bomber 12mm stainless sleeve bolt. The bolts in question looked like these.

Clearly, updating the aging hardware did not dissuade the idiot.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 31, 2014

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Comments: Replacing aging bolts one-to-one has been controversial for all of the 16+ years that I have been climbing in Santa Barbara. Where it has been done, it has generally been done with great discretion. And still the practice has had its detractors.

In the case of a classic route like Fun in the Sun, I'm happy to engage in this debate. Obviously, I think that adding solid bolts to each of the original placements is worthwhile in order to open this route to more ascents. I also understand that some ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Vanishing Flakes (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: It's a very sad day in Santa Barbara.

Someone has sport-bolted Vanishing Flakes. There is a new lower bolt (not far from the route's fixed pin), a new bolt above the original route's second clip and a sport anchor for lowering off half-way up the wall.

This is sacrilege. Vanishing Flakes is one of Santa Barbara's truly classic leads.

I am sure that the new bolts will not remain, but I strongly encourage Santa Barbara climbers to register their opinions here. I desperately hope that this i... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Riparian Daydream (5.10-) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: WOW! Where is Ashley standing, and how did she get there?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Whale's Back (5.11-) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 7, 2014

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Comments: Conchoidal Fracture!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : I Love L.A. (5.10a PG13) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Hardest 5.9 in the guidebook!...okay, second only to the Weeny Roofs at San Ysidro.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Riparian Daydream (5.10-) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Right on!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Here the tilt of the camera does injustice to the route. That right-hand arete is way steeper than it looks in the photo.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: The easiest way to get to the Fun in the Sun Wall is to climb Labrador Cupcakes. Instead of belaying from the two bolts atop that route, lead up to the oak tree. From the tree, there is a climber's trail that leads left toward Fun in the Sun (passing below the Lower Alchemist en route). There is one short scramble past a boulder as you near Fun in the Sun, but otherwise it's just walking.

I am aware of one route and one project to the right of Cupcakes & Champagne. There is a 7 or 8 bolt 5.9 ca... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: To be clear, it was Andy's vision and hard work that we should be grateful for. I was a late arrival in Rattlesnake Canyon. And Andy told me how incredible this route is fully a year before I finally got on it. Thank you, Andy.


Location: Matthew Fienup : Santa Barbara Anchor Replac... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: The lead expansion expansion sleeve on the bottom of this bolt is 3/8" in diameter. The threaded bolt that screws in to this sleeve is considerably narrower--less than 5/16" in diameter.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Here's the view, from the summit of Fun in the Sun - starting with Gibraltar Rock, high on the hillside and finishing with the ocean. The climber is Patrick Callery.




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