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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Moon Doggies (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Swiped two different times, actually.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Magic Feather (5.10a/b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: | You just have to believe...
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 12, 2013
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : The Soul (5.11b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't recall there ever being a second set of anchors for the Gibbon/Soul. I've always used the anchors atop A Route Runs Through It et al. or built a traditional anchor.
The face to the right has long been a top-rope (and referred to in guidebooks). There is a single bolt on top that can be combined with bushes or a 3-inch cam to make a top rope anchor.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : Initiation Crack (5.11a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have big hands, but I'm also 6'-1" with a +3" reach. I was able to stand on the horizontal seam/ledge near the base and reach high for a nice finger lock. I guess this is a tall-guy route.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Holy sh--! This is seriously awful. Not only is Larry in one of those photos but there is at least one long-time local climber who should know better...
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this a recent event?
I am aware of an occasion more than five years ago when a Forest Service ranger (one who cares deeply about Lizard's Mouth and who has worked closely with climbers for many years) hired someone to bring a power washer up to Lizard's Mouth to experiment with its use for graffiti removal. After employing a large team of individuals to haul a generator and compressor into the site, the experiment was shut down after about 5 minutes. It very quickly became obvious that the ... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Foothill Crag ("The Foot") : Magic Feather (5.10a/b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "What a good one..."
Glad you love the climbing, Alexander.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Myth of Silenus (V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alaxender, I would point you to Andy's excellent example. From the Rattlesnake Canyon Crag page:
"I'm not the first person to try developing this area. I've found old anchors, rusty bolts, and sundry evidence of past climbing shenanigans."
In the Santa Barbara area, you should assume that any particular piece of rock has already been climbed.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Summit Blocks - East (Main) : Dig A Pony (5.10d)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful, balancy crux just above the second bolt. Make sure you're on the left side of that bolt.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a rappel-topo and interesting historical notes, visit here
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Klingon (5.9 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry for not being more clear. As Andy indicates, when top-rope belaying from the base of the route, you could lower the climber off the end of the rope and drop them down Gibraltar Gully.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: For automobile aficionados:
Where does Car & Driver Magazine go to test drive a 500-hp super car?..
Highway-33, of course. Look for Wheeler Gorge in this video
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : San Ysidro (Bouldering) : Myth of Silenus (V3)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alexander,
You reap what you sow.
I would refer you to your comments on the Wasp, at Sespe Gorge, not to mention Foothill Crag.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Happy footnote...
This photo was taken during the best first date of my life. We were engaged within months and have now been married for over 8 years. Just one more reason that I absolutely love this route.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Fire Crags : Face the Seam (5.10a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think these are 1/4-inchers. Memory tells me that they are actually 3/8" externally-threaded sleeve bolts like this. The bolts are not good, but definitely better than 1/4".
Is there still a second set of bolts located 8 feet or so higher up the wall/gully, above the cold shuts?
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Natural Rate of Unemploymen... (5.10+)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are likely referring to Adaptive Expectations
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Face Lift (5.7 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the first time that I have heard of Mosher & Roland being accused of sanitizing a route...
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Great Race (5.10a) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've definitely seen some scary swings--several people ending up in the trees in the bottom of the photo, after falling lower on the route. No shortage of cuts and scrapes.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Test Site : Intellitoys (5.9)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Above the break, this route boasts excellent rock, by area standards.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Tea Room : Fen Gliddich (5.10a/b)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only 5.9 if you use liberal stemming between the arete and the wall to the right. Super fun, nonetheless--airy and exposed.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Economique (5.10a)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new bolt is in bad taste. Climbers who were sketched out by the runout to the first bolt had at least two options for making this safe.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This new bolt is tacky. If Gould & Agulara had wanted a lower bolt, they would have added one. As mentioned earlier, anyone who is uncomfortable with the runout to the first bolt (and I am among these individuals) can either carry a cam or use a stick clip.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Point Mugu
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: And you forgot to mention the constant highway noise...
Esoteric, for sure : )
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To avoid the 4th class approach referred to in previous posts, I highly recommend taking the climbers trail up the ridge from Hole in the Rock (directly above the parking for Gibraltar) and then rappelling in from the top of the cliff. There is a well maintained trail leading right to the top of the cliff.
Be aware, a 70m rope only touches the base when the rope is weighted (and stretched)--most routes here are just over 35m tall.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Queen Mountain Bouldering : The Underground : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yuccas happen to be agaves (subfamily Agavoideae)
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