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Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 48
Total Points: 7,359
Last Year: 408
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2070 | Routes 173 | Areas 32 | Photos 937 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 461 | Posts 50 | Stars 330 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Classy, Jon. Thanks.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Nice historic shot of the porta-ledge that once graced the start of this route. It left the wall some time in 2008.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: This is a great photo of Andy leading the now-controversial 5.12b face using only the original bolts.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: This conversation has been moved to climbing forum. To read more, please visit:
mountainproject.com/v/goulara-...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: Cassidy, welcome to Mountain Project!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for clarifying about the history of the fifth bolt. I stand by my earlier statement that the fifth (as well as the fourth) is unnecessary and an infringement of Goulara.

Sean, thanks for weighing in again. I realize that there are two climbers pictured. Both photos were taken during the first lead effort. 3/8" will get the job done if the rock is sufficiently hard. Duane Raleigh did some good work on this. That issue seems entirely secondary to ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: The first three bolts are definitely independent of the climbing on the route called Goulara. They are a "direct start" to Goulara and should have necessitated permission from the first ascentionists.

Bolts 4 and 5 of the newly added bolts are a clear case of "Should I clip with my right hand or should I clip with my left?" As this photo shows, the new bolts infringe on Goulara in a glaring way. This part of the face can easily be led on Goulara's existing bolts:


Red - Goulara Purple - new bolts  (bolts 2-5 visib...
Red - Goulara
Purple - new bolts
(bolts 2-5 visible)


In fact, thi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: Photo taken Friday, April 3.
Goulara topo
Goulara topo


EDIT: In case anyone worries, the original file is over 9,000 pixels tall and the bolt locations are clearly visible. Drop me a message if you'd like to see the image without the Photoshopped bolt marks.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: This is unambiguous about both the original location of Goulara and about the open project now known as Economique:

Edwards Guidebook
Edwards Guidebook



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: John, I think you are bringing shame to the handlebar mustache and the aviator glasses. In some ways these new bolts are ethically worse than a single lower bolt (added by a naive amateur who is new to the area and doesn't understand the local history, ethos and ethics).

Gould and Agulara opened one of the most striking formations in the Ojai area. They put up a stout 5.11+/5.12 route (Reese Martin called it 5.12b) on the face that now houses Sean's "completely different route." The bottom thr... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: Sean, thanks for entering the conversation. "Pretty fuckin fun lead" is exactly what the individual who added the bolt to Goulara was thinking. Where do we draw a line?

John, I find your reaction to this truly surprising given your Chuck Ethics reaction to the Goulara bolt. Please tell me again why that bolt was offensive.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: John and Andy, thanks for weighing in. When I bolted Economique, I used the first three bolts of Goulara to access the face around the corner. In my estimation, I did not alter Goulara in any way. The first new bolt is on the face around the corner to the left--the bolts actually protect the face left of the arete and are not on the arete. Does that seem like an encroachment on Goulara? Let me know if you think I'm being hypocritical. (I'd hate to be opposite Chuck Ethics.)

The bolts in questi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 2, 2015

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Comments: The new lower bolt on Goulara has been removed three times. But that is apparently not enough to deter the thoughtless bolting of existing lines at Wheeler Gorge. Now FOUR BOLTS (correction: FIVE) have been added to the start of Goulara. This is F-ed up. By the time this round is over, there will be 7 chopped bolts at the start of this route. Never mind the sacrilege of adding bolts to someone else's route, this is irresponsible in terms of the impact on the site.

Please do not add bolts to exi... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Toxic Waste Wall
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: Upper Gibraltar is in pretty fine shape. A Route Runs Through it has seen many of its lead bolts and 3//8" coldshut hangers replaced. And the rock on this formation was never seriously damaged by the Jesusita Fire.

At last check, the story at the Toxic Waste Wall was another matter. Tons (literally) of rock was blasted off this wall by the rapid expansion of water under the intense heat of the fire. Any bolts that have not been replaced since the Jesusita fire should be treated with suspicion.... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: This site has seen several chapters of development. Prior to being developed as a sport-climbing site in the 90s, MST was apparently used for aid practice. There are the remnants of old aid lines which consist of pasted copperheads and quarter-inch button-heads. These historical artifacts litter the various boulders and walls and contribute to a unique atmosphere.

Early 90s development turned the site into an accessible, first-generation sport climbing crag. Routes from this era are generally v... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Torgo (V-easy)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: This is on the formation being called Count Crackula.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 19, 2015

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Comments: There are actually 2 trailheads. You can park in front of this one, the first that is encountered along Lesser Drive. You can also turn the corner to the left onto Calle Alta Vista. There is a second trailhead located 100 feet up on the left.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: Routes on each wall are listed left to right.

Follow Your Bliss Wall
Three's Company (5.8)
Follow Your Bliss (5.11b)

Infinity of the Depths Boulder
The Infinity of the Depths of a Man's Mind (5.10+)

Hidden in corridor behind Infinity of the Depths (right of Push the Button):
Manos, Hands of Fate (5.10a)
Daddy-O (5.10c)

Push the Button Wall
Push the Button, Frank (5.8)

Beginning of the End Wall
A Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+)
The Beginning of the ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing this.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : The Lieback (5.5) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: Beautiful HDR image!!

The dihedral is actually quite a bit steeper than it looks here.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Rotten Bananas (5.7)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: I thought that this route felt easier than Bananarama by a full grade. It also felt better protected. The route's hardest moves seem to all have a chest-high bolt. By comparison, I remember pulling two different 5.8 cruxes on Bananarama, where the bolt was well below my feet.

This is an awesome route on one of the coolest formations in the Hills.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: I second Andy's endorsement of 1/2" Rawls for Santa Barbara.

The deal with Glue-ins in SB seems to be this --
The cartridge application seems to work well since the components are already mixed before they go into the hole and the glue is more viscous, impregnating the rock just the right amount. With glue capsules, like those sold by Petzl, the liquid inside the capsule seems to absorb completely into the porous sandstone surrounding the whole before all of the various components can mix. The... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: This is the top of P3. One more pitch to the summit


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: Special thanks to fighter pilot Ian S. for sharing his stories and the link to this video. To see the low-elevation fly-over of the Needles and Hermit Spire, check out 7:30 and 8:32




Needles fly-by
Needles fly-by



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: Someone has swiped Fixe Ring Anchors from atop two different routes at San Ysidro and replaced them with old-school SMC bolt hangers. A cute little joke?...retaliation for the bolts added to Vanishing Flakes??

In any case, you'll need to leave hardware behind or walk off, until the rap-hangers have been replaced.


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