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Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Marisa Fienup.


Member Since: Feb 18, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Matthew Fienup

Point Rank: # 51
Total Points: 7,537
Last Year: 184
Last 30 Days: 43
569 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matthew Fienup been climbing?










Contributions


All 2136 | Routes 175 | Areas 32 | Photos 962 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 494 | Posts 52 | Stars 334 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: The headwall is quite a bit steeper than the wide angle lens makes it appear.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: I've said it elsewhere, but I can't repeat it enough - this is quite surely the single best moderate route on the entire Central Coast.


Quick photography note: the headwall is off-vertical, but the wide angle lens makes it look less steps than it actually is.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Lower Gibraltar : Chimney Sweep (5.8- PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: Tom,thank you for the contributions to Mountain Project--as if pioneering the routes was't enough!

This route was not very climbable for years and years, on account of a healthy Bay Tree which grew out of the crack about 1/2 way up. The Jesusita Fire took care of the tree and now the route is climbable again. It's a very worthy climb!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Riders of the Purple Sage (5.7)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: Pretty good route overall, though not nearly as good as Eye for Eye. The rock quality on this one gets worse the higher you climb--it might be preferable to skip the last three bolts and finish in the crack to the right (D&D).

Lowered off with a 70m and had just a few feet of extra rope on either end.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : A Walk On The Wild Side (5.7+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: This is almost surely the worst bolting job at MST.

Rock Climbing Photo: A Walk on the Wild Side bolt
A Walk on the Wild Side bolt

Apparently the lead bolt on the right is the good one.


Rock Climbing Photo: A Walk on the Wild Side bolt
A Walk on the Wild Side bolt

Yet when you look closely at the bolt on the right you notice that you're hanging from just a couple of threads.


Rock Climbing Photo: A Walk on the Wild Side bolt
A Walk on the Wild Side bolt

Higher on the route, you clip this bolt. With a little luck, if you fall, the rock will not break the carabiner.

All in all, it might be best to top-rope this route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Conejo Mountain : Mystery Science Theater : A Walk On The Wild Side (5.7+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: This is hands-down the most aesthetic line at MST. Steep and exposed with quality movement.

A fair amount of loose rock--but no more than you'd expect at this crag.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Lost in the Sespe (5.7+ PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: This is a very exciting addition to Sespe Gorge! Thank you, Alex.

It's worth noting that this route connects with the upper section of the Sespe Classic McTavish.
Rock Climbing Photo: McTavish - yellow
McTavish - yellow



Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Saddle-Up Cupcake (5.9-)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: Unfortunately, the rock quality heading up and left was sketchy. A few large features broke during exploration.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Eye For an Eye (5.7)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Feb 8, 2016

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Comments: Today we climbed to the top anchor shown in the Bishop Area Rock Climbs book and in this topo. This variation has only 9 or 10 bolts, not 12 as indicated in the guide book. When we tried to lower off on a 70m rope, we ended up fully 20 feet short -- it is not possible to lower off with a 70 as the guidebook claims.

Terrific route though! There is one thought-provoking move well above the 8th bolt.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Danger Boy (5.11a) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Could this be Ezra?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Magician : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jan 25, 2016

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Comments: Only on MP could '11 pitches up' be called an ordinary scene ;)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 16, 2015

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Comments: Correct. You need a 70m rope to rappel the route.

With a 60m rope, you can walk over to the top of Tender Flakes and rappel that route.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: Matthew Fienup When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: That would be "Ugly Duckling," a cool moderate slab route. Here is a full description


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Ezra (5.9-) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: I can't be sure, but I think his eyes are open.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: Wait a minute…I like my ankles. What are you saying about my ankles, Jeff?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Magician : Magic Dragon (5.8 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: With the fire tower gone, it is now possible to descend the stairs at any time, 7 days a week. The gate that blocks passage of the stairs has been removed.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Magician
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: UPDATE: Following the destruction of the fire lookout, it is now possible to walk down the stairs any time of day, 7 days a week.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Camelbak Crack (5.8+ R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: How is the rock quality on the pillar to the left of Camelbak Crack, in this photo?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Written Exam (5.9 PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: With climbing, you should always round up ;)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Written Exam (5.9 PG13)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: It is possible, and quite enjoyable, to connect Written Exam with the top of King Snake Crack. You'll need an extra quickdraw and a couple of additional small cams to link these two safely. You can also top-rope this link-up from the anchor atop Tender Flakes & King Snake Crack.


Location: Steven Wolpe : Climbing in Ojai : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Cranking through the 5.10 variation of Face Lift! And on your first day on a rope. Solid work!


Location: Matthew Fienup : Favorite Photographs : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Wesley's older brother, Bryson has to do this move static. Wesley wheels around with his legs and does a crazy dynamic move to transition onto the rail on the left.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: If only I had this kid's strength-to-weight ratio…Here's the full sequence.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Half Ascent (5.6 R) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Both of the aging bolts on the orange line depicted above have been replaced. One of the original bolts was a 1/4" button head that popped out of the wall after a nut tool was slid beneath the hanger--it wouldn't have even held body weight.

Two 1/2" Rawls now protect seriously runout, 5.7 face climbing.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Wadka (5.7 R)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: Very common and worthwhile top-rope after rappelling from the bolted anchor to the right of Ending Crack.


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