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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pino Wall & Jawbone : Pino Wall : Parallel Universe (5.12a/b)
By: mattb19 When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got to get on this climb after a few weeks of trying to make it happen. It is a great route and will be really nice once it gets a little traffic to clean off the lichen. I felt like the 3rd pitch was R once outta the seam off the belay when you go to make the traverse. The last pitch is R as well and you have to be careful when pulling on the knobs that you pull on. I was using one and it broke off causing me to take a tumble a little scary with no gear. Overall the route was a blast an... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : The Anvil
By: mattb19 When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone out there have a good idea of what routes are where? Lee are you able to draw a topo as if you were below the wall looking up? With all the new anchors up there things are a little confusing.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Rapture (5.11b PG13)
By: mattb19 When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first and third pitch on the this climb are a lot of fun. The climb is worth getting on and is very enjoyable. I would have given it 3 stars had the middle pitch been better. The spacing of the bolts on the first pitch keep your attention. Luckly things appear as you work your way towards them.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Photo
By: mattb19 When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a great looking picture.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Chaos Crag : Edge of Chaos (5.11a)
By: mattb19 When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just wanted to add a little something to help people find the route. When you get to the base of the wall you will look up and see a big clean wall. Keep walking north dropping down a little and then hiking back uphill over large downed trees (stay up against the wall). As soon as you bushwhack through a few thorn bushes and the wall starts to look like its a bunch of broken up ledges you have found the route. We traversed in from the left side of a ledge. The last two pitches were money and t... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Big - T (5.10c)
By: mattb19 When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess I did not notice the chopped bolt the first time. I was so gripped from trying not to fall. That is too bad someone chopped that bolt.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Halfbreed (5.10a/b)
By: mattb19 When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You know John I thought the route did not seem to bad. I think it could use a bolt on the second pitch above the crux bolt. I don't think it is a must but would be nice. Other than that I think the route seemed fine and had plenty of pro. Places where it seemed run out were fairly easy climbing. I say leave it as is.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Halfbreed (5.10a/b)
By: mattb19 When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey John thanks for another great route. I do have a tip for people on the 3rd pitch. As you reach 150ft up the route start looking right for the alcove that John speaks of. It is about 25ft right of the water streak.
As for gear we used gray to yellow TCU's, double blue and yellow. We also used a .5 camalot and a 2.5 tech friend. as for nuts we took a single set and bring some small ones. As John notes don't pass up gear when you see it due to there is not much.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : Big - T (5.10c)
By: mattb19 When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know when the bolt was added to the third pitch where you traverse out left? I climbed the Big T in May and thought that it seemed really hard since I used the one hand hold for a piece of gear. Man the climb is much easier now with that bolt. I kinda of enjoyed it without the bolt.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Excalibur (5.10d)
By: mattb19 When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel like you can get away with a single set of cams. It was also nice to have some trango slider nuts.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pino Wall & Jawbone : Pino Wall : License and a Visa (5.11b/c PG13)
By: mattb19 When: Nov 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got to climb this route on Nov 1st after trying a few other times in mid summer (wall was wet from rain). First off we got great weather and coud have been wearing shorts and a t-shirt. I must say if I go do it again I will wait till fall again. The approach was great due to all the grass and plants were dead for the year. In the summer I got really wet on the apporach.
The route was very fun and I thought that the second pitch was very sustained but it did have a few rest spots. I didn... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Gemstone (5.8)
By: mattb19 When: Oct 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hated the first pitch and prefer to go up Seamingly Hard instead. The second pitch was fun and had lots of options to choose from. Take a 70m rope to rap.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Excitable Boys (5.9+)
By: mattb19 When: Aug 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In regard to the flake I tried to yank on it yesterday and it would not go anywhere. Maybe I was just not strong enough.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crackula (5.8)
By: mattb19 When: Jul 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Chuck and Tamara you are correct.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crackula (5.8)
By: mattb19 When: Jul 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are the hangers on the top of the feature the top of the route? Can you rap it? After doing Yucca Flower Tower we went over and thought we would just see if we could rap in and went off the hangers at the top. We ended up in some death gully with lots of lose rock. We saw a sling in the gully as well that appeared that someone else tried to rap there. We got our ropes stuck so we never got to see if that was the way to go.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower : Yucca Flower Tower (5.10b)
By: mattb19 When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.9 pitch felt like a hard 5.9. It was a sustained pitch but very enjoyable. Great route!
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