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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Group Therapy (5.8)
By: Matt Swartz When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easiest way to avoid this, always tie into/tie a knot in the end of your rope!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Gorilla's Delight (5.9+)
By: Matt Swartz When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man! What a fun route, it got me pumped though! I found the crux to be the transition from the arching crack that narrows to fingers and tips to the slabby finish, took a 15 footer! I eventually managed to do it. I found this to be harder then the 10a variation to the second pitch of The Owl.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Curving Crack (5.9)
By: Matt Swartz When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this today, great and safe 5.9 I would definitely recommend this as there is plenty of gear to be placed making falling safe. I don't think this route is slick due to high traffic but rather due to the rock - actually adding to the character of this climb, it makes you think, starting with bigger jams, going to smearing with your feet and using the two walls of the dihedral. Climb this.
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Location: ME : Katahdin : The Armadillo (5.7)
By: Matt Swartz When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From what I remember it's about 300ft of technical climbing followed by something like 400-600ft of 4th class.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Northwest Corner (5.8)
By: Matt Swartz When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We started around the right of the arete at the base, going up a face with a crack that took a blue TCU. A slightly spicy start (not sure what this route is part of) but a fun alternative to the standard start.
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff : Route Awakening (5.10b)
By: Matt Swartz When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the ledge at the top of Route Awakening, you can traverse left a little bit to just below a finger/thin hands crack. I don't think this crack is part of another route, and its short, only about 15 feet long. Regardless, its a fun moderate trad lead (5.8?) and also gets you up to the toilet bowl feature. Protect with small aliens or tcu's.
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff : Walk on the Mild Side (5.8+)
By: Matt Swartz When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually called "Walk on the Mild Side"
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : West Face (5.5)
By: Matt Swartz When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely not classic, but a fun multi-pitch route to take newer climbers up. When I climbed it, instead of going strait up the groove, I opted for the spicier (5.7?) line that ascends the face directly right of the groove to the right of the true start to the West Face - this alternative doesn't protect as easily. I broke the whole route into 3 pitches to try and avoid some of the apparently unavoidable rope drag. The down-climbing to get off the top could be a little sketchy for a new clim... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Black Crack (5.9)
By: Matt Swartz When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good climb, my first 5.9 gear lead. The pin is partly broken, not sure how many more falls its gonna hold. I was able to get a gray alien in to protect the crux. Watch out for the sharp edge that you pull over. Once you finish the climb better to pull the rope through your gear to avoid unnecessary wear on your rope. Cleaning will be harder but, I managed to do it so you can too.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs : A Dare by the Sea (5.10b/c PG13)
By: Matt Swartz When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best climbs at Otter, do it.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall) : Yankee Clipper (5.12a)
By: Matt Swartz When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start early, we got a late start and ended up rapping in the dark. I seem to remember the pitches between 4 and 7 being chossy. A super fun route!
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars) : Super Nova (5.11a)
By: Matt Swartz When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll second that. I was guiding some students on this climb and did it twice. Once I took them up the 11 which I onsighted, and once I took them up the 10 which I managed to fall on. Anyway, we linked every single pitch with a 60m rope. Enjoy. Oh, and we were lucky enough to find a victory cigar in the summit register, thanks!
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Location: ME : Katahdin : The Armadillo (5.7)
By: Matt Swartz When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An amazing climb. Make sure to take a break on the nice little aerie at the conclusion of the technical climbing and take in the views of cirque. Make sure you get to the ranger station at Chimney Pond no later than 8am or the rangers there will not let you climb.
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