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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Matt Seefeldt When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 8/29/09 - We had to bail after the traverse pitch today. During the process I ran across a rope that had been stuck after someone pulled it from the traverse pitch anchors. The rope is now fixed on the bail anchor in the middle of the wall. Retrieve it if it's yours or some free booty? If someone could provide some info on how old the rope is, it would be great.
Matt
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Matt Seefeldt When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just wanted to reiterate some of the comments on the descent as it is easily to get lost in the long string of comments. The raps west of Ruper are very easy and clean and most importantly keeps you from tossing rocks on folks waiting for Green Spur ect. A single 60m works for all of the raps. To find the Ruper trees head down the gully north of the summit for about 50 yards. The rocks flatten out here and you can then start moving south until you see the Ruper trees. Work right here (west)... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Matt Seefeldt When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb....One note, pulling the rope off of the rap on the top can be tough. There is a lot of friction. I would recommend that the 1st one down checks that the rope can be pulled before the second descends. Move the knot accordingly.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Alice : Central Ramp (5.8)
By: Matt Seefeldt When: Jul 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just climbed this June 30th and have some tidbits to add:
1) The 5.8 handcrack start was completely snowed in, so we had to resort to the 5.5 chimney for the 1st pitch. Do not continue to follow this chimney up and to the right, since it will lead you off route with 5.9ish climbing with bad pro. At the 1st ledge after the starting chimney, keep heading up/leftish to gain the ledges at the start of the 2nd pitch.
2) After going through the 5.8 crack to the left of the roof on the 4th pitch,... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Direct South Ridge (5.9)
By: Matt Seefeldt When: Aug 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finding the bolted raps was still a bit difficult despite all of this beta. Some more info that might help: As you are scrambling down the gully you will see a gear anchor that consists of a pin, stopper, and some slung slings at the point where the gully drops off into the void. To reach the bolted raps, the ledge that needs to be traversed is about ten feet directly above this shoddy gear anchor (See Anonymous Coward, June 2002). Traverse this ledge on the left side (as you are looking dow... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral (5.8+ PG13)
By: Matt Seefeldt When: Jun 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was able to create a good anchor about six feet to the left of the large ledge on the top of pitch one. It's moderately hanging but took four strong cam placements in "crack pockets". At least you don't have to be sketched by the gear.
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