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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck
By: Matt Rutledge When: Jul 17, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I do agree this is a pretty good area for small group climbing. However, please be thoughtful of those around you. A group of four probably doesn't need to set up four ropes on the same rock.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Surprising Slab (5.8)
By: Matt Rutledge When: Jul 15, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this is the route I think it is, I'm going to have to disagree with the bomb rating. Sure, there is little to no gear for leading, but this is a fun TR. The hand holds are far apart and maybe not so good, but the feet just appear like magic.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Dihedral (5.4)
By: Matt Rutledge When: Jul 15, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The top flake can also be protected by a #2 camalot with a long sling. Just bury it deep. In fact, I wasn't very happy with the large cam placement I found under the flake.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Boulder Falls - Ice
By: Matt Rutledge When: Apr 1, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Upper falls are pretty much gone. Much of the lower falls is still around. Saw people climbing the short stuff on the east end. That side still looked blue and good. Hopefully the cold snap due tomorrow will give a couple more days of ice.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Spiral Staircase (WI4)
By: Matt Rutledge When: Mar 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the [Staircase] and the flow to the left of the [Staircase] on 3/22. The ice was in the shade and pretty solid. The staircase was so stepped out, one could probably climb it without tools. The [Fang] looked bigger than I've seen it. The [Designator] looked a little small.
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Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag
By: Matt Rutledge When: Feb 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the greatest rocks I've ever had a chance to play on. It has just about everything. The approach is about thirty seconds to the top of the rock. Once there you can rap down (if there is an open anchor), or scrable down a nice gully. The climbing is great. Everything from cracks to thin face moves. Almost everything has a roof to work your way over. Long slings will enable you to TR just about every route on the rock. A little gear will make it even better. (Please don't p... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : South Ridge, White Twin Spi... (5.6)
By: Matt Rutledge When: Feb 11, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice view of the park from the summit. I've found a #2 camalot can be creatively placed down low - in the top of the crack right after the first few moves. Then I usually place one more piece before the first pin. I know. I'm a wus. On the other hand, those pins look to be older than I am.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice
By: Matt Rutledge When: Jan 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ice was pretty thick on the main flows Saturday (Jan. 26, 2002). A little wet in spots, a little fractured and scary looking (but solid) in others. Overall, conditions were very good for the warm temperatures. (First ice lead. Go me!)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail
By: Matt Rutledge When: Jan 11, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great rock for people who want to get into leading. The crack numbered (1) goes about 5.2 with pro placements at about every move. The crack numbered (3) goes about 5.4 with even more pro placements than the other crack. Both anchors are solid, and can be backed up if so desired. The face (2) is easily TR'd from the anchor for the first crack. It goes about 5.easy.
I think the crux of this entire face is getting to the belay ledge.
Oh. A 60m rope is really nice to have for rapi... more >>
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