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5.11a roof crack over the East China Sea.


Member Since: May 25, 2001
Last Visit: Nov 11, 2009
Contact Matt Robertson


Point Rank: # 1,411
Total Points: 146
Last Year: 36
Last 30 Days: 15
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Matt Robertson been climbing?


17 people gave this user's contributions a positive rating.











Matt Robertson

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (54) | Routes (7) | Areas | Photos (10) | Comments (26) | Posts (2) | Stars (9) | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Missing Link

5.10d

Trad, 1 pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak

Dec 8, 2001

Ginseng Junkie

5.10a

Trad, 3 pitches

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak

Dec 8, 2001

Fading Light

5.9

Trad, 2 pitches

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - top to Xanadu

Nov 11, 2001

Arnold! Arnold!

5.11d

Sport

CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

Oct 28, 2001

Chick on the Side

5.10b/c

Trad, 1 pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - Pony Express t...

Oct 26, 2001

Cannabis Sportiva

5.11a

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch

CO : Boulder Canyon : Animal World

4 people

Oct 24, 2001

Hand Crack (aka White Lightning)

5.10b

Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony...

Sep 30, 2001

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
First crux involves a long reach into an insecure flare.

First crux involves a long reach into an insecure flare.

International : Taiwan : ... : First Corner, (AKA: In and ... (5.11)

Nov 10, 2009

Anja on "First Corner" at School Gate.

Anja on "First Corner" at School Gate.

International : Taiwan : ... : First Corner, (AKA: In and ... (5.11)

2 people

Nov 10, 2009

Brian Soong on "Tiger's Tooth" (5.11b sport) at School Gate.

Brian Soong on "Tiger's Tooth" (5.11b sport) at School Gate.

International : Taiwan : ... : School Gate

Nov 10, 2009

Peihua Wu on Cunning Linguist, 5.10d, at the Cathouse, Long Dong, Taiwan.

Peihua Wu on Cunning Linguist, 5.10d, at the Cathouse, Long Dong, Taiwan.

International : Taiwan

4 people

Jun 6, 2009

View of Long Dong, Taiwan looking south.

View of Long Dong, Taiwan looking south.

International : Taiwan

Jun 6, 2009

View of Long Dong, Taiwan from the south.

View of Long Dong, Taiwan from the south.

International : Taiwan

Jun 6, 2009

One Way Ticket, 5.11a, on the Clocktower, Long Dong, Taiwan.

One Way Ticket, 5.11a, on the Clocktower, Long Dong, Taiwan.

International : Taiwan

3 people

Jun 6, 2009

Caveman offers a great position and nice views for the belay crew.  Photo by Kevin Stocks.

Caveman offers a great position and nice views for the belay crew. Photo by Kevin Stocks.

International : Thailand : ... : Caveman (5.11d)

2 people

May 6, 2008

Caveman, from the cave.  Photo by Kevin Stocks.

Caveman, from the cave. Photo by Kevin Stocks.

International : Thailand : ... : Caveman (5.11d)

May 6, 2008

5.11a roof crack over the East China Sea.

5.11a roof crack over the East China Sea.

Matt Robertson : Taiwan

2 people

Jul 2, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Taiwan
By: Matt Robertson When: May 28, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Long Dong currently has around 500 routes on high quality sandstone up to 70 meters high, including sport routes (5.5 to 5.14a), trad up to 5.12c, and bouldering. The area is on the Northeast Coast of Taiwan about 45 minutes from central Taipei City, and also offers great swimming and diving, hiking, amazing seafood and friendly Taiwanese culture.


Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Tonsai Bay : Dum's Kitchen : Jumping For Jugs (5.11b)
By: Matt Robertson When: Sep 29, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: If you can touch the first hold at all, you likely will find the subsequent steep climbing more difficult than the start. At 5'9", white, overweight and unable to touch a basketball net, I could latch the jug. I found the climbing above to be pumpy and nice; only the back-scratching tree branches detract from the quality.

It should be noted that this route is probably more like 12 meters right of Wake & Bake (the first route right of W&B is By Way of Deception, another nice route wi... more >>


Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Tonsai Bay : Generator Wall : Pearl Jam (5.12-)
By: Matt Robertson When: Jun 25, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: If you're missing Valley jams while on Tonsai, check out this route.

This is the most impressive limestone crack I've ever seen. It is steep, tall, wide, and unrelenting. It looks like a granite fist crack and appears from the base as if one could use #4 Camalots to protect it... about 20 of 'em. In fact it climbs more like limestone than granite, there are features, making for some gymnastic movement--complete with fists! Damn burly and inspiring route.


Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Railay West : The Thaiwand : Out of Sticks (5.12a)
By: Matt Robertson When: Apr 12, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: New bolts as of early '07.

Devious and sustained, with multiple cruxes.

Perhaps harder than Caveman and nearly as good.


Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Railay West : The Thaiwand : Lord of the Thai's (5.12b)
By: Matt Robertson When: Feb 28, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: The first two pitches can be linked. Doing so will be pumpy with runouts and/or rope drag. Pitch 3 is one of the finest bolted pitches on the planet.

In February 2007 Tim Emmett BASE-jumped off the top of this route after following every pitch free with a 25-pound pack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Matt Robertson When: Jan 10, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: The start of this outstanding route is vague and nondescript. If you find yourself wondering where to go on the first-pitch slab, look up and left. A sickle-shaped finger crack on the left wall of a right-facing dihedral, about a hundred feet up and visible from the ground, is a good landmark to shoot for. Best 5.8 in the canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Matt Robertson When: Dec 3, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Gear is good at the crux, but the 5.8 leader needs to be ready to punch through a few moves without stopping. There are a few feet of layback moves on which one COULD stop to place more pro, but doing so might bump the pump up to 5.8++. I think Reggae is a good indicator of the confidence your 5.8 leader has in her gear; as one of my very first trad leads I recall feeling quite concerned stepping up on the layback until I grabbed that fine jug above.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Practice Slab (5.8)
By: Matt Robertson When: Nov 13, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Those step-chipping bastards with the alpenstocks. We oughtta vow to lynch any bastard seen climbing with an alpenstock.

Where on the Spectrum does "chipping steps with alpenstock" lie?


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