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Location: TX : Mineral Wells State Park : Scenic Overlook : Practice Wall (5.8) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know bolts are a nono, but what about gear? Both cracks look like potential fun leads (the offwidth as well as the diagonaling crack to the left).
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Random Crystals (5.8+)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha...not so sure about that Kate.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Royal Arch : ... : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love the socks! Are those shoes rented?
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Warm Up Boulder : Thunderbird (V1+) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice! That looks awesome.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Knothole (5.8)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route starts about 100 yds to the left of the Friday the 13th Buttress and is apparent by the gaping start of the off width about 30' up (the so-called Knothole). Start in a left leaning chimney that will probably go at about 5.4. Follow this for about 30' to a ledge. Notice the gaping maw of the crack above that you will be struggling to jam your tired body into. This thing definitely deserves a picture. The crack here is wide and deep, tapering down into pure offwidth misery. Here i... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Finally (5.9) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice perspective! I like the people chillin' below.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Slot and Upper Slot (5.7+) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the Kelman book, the two lower slots are labeled Lower Slot Left (7+) and Lower Slot Right (8). Directly above Lower Slot Right is a 10b that has an intimidating overhanging start to it that eases up into an ever widening crack. The Upper Slot is on the right and the roof on Finally (9+) is visible around the corner.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Slot and Upper Slot (5.7+) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Brian is right on with this one. Although this is pretty vertical for a 7, the jams are solid in this section. That being said, every time I get on this pitch I always ask myself why this doesn't feel any easier than the first time I did it. Most people in my party felt that exiting onto the slab with the wide layback was the crux. It gets thinner, but the angle is pretty mellow, so it's probably just mental.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Observatory Rock : 99% Pure (5.9)
By: Matt Richardson When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is definitely all about style - if you don't have the jams down you will get in trouble (as I did). The crack is right leaning and off-hands (depending on the size of the meat hooks - for Scarpelli this would probably just be hands). I climbed it with three people and each person seemed to climb it a little different - I wasn't able to get a good fist so I had to arm bar, the guy following me used fists and his wife said forget the crack and just laid the thing back the whole way. ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : US 36 (between Estes Park &... : Buttonrock
By: Matt Richardson When: May 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The area mentioned by camerones looks like it has a lot of potential. But the slabs look as if they would need some fixed hardware.
EDIT: This section is referred to in the new Gillett guide as Below Price (as in below Price Dam).
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Devil's Slide : Easier Than It Looks (5.5)
By: Matt Richardson When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A long time ago, I had a really noob experience on this route. We were planning on only doing the first pitch, so one person was going to go up and top belay. My friend decided to take the first lead and be the one to haul everyone's ass up afterwards. He had no experience on longer routes and hadn't ever top belayed before. I tried to impress on him how important it was to maintain control of the rope, but it didn't quite sink in.
Problems set in when he got to the top and only had two qui... more >>
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Cave : Elephant Man (5.13-) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like it, Lee! Excellent perspective.
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall : Bolt Talk (5.11a)
By: Matt Richardson When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Lee. I think you are right - it's been a while since I have been on any of these.
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Location: rob rebel : IC : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice rack...
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : The Coliseum : Lost in Time (5.10b)
By: Matt Richardson When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock on this first pitch is definitely more friable than the second making for a not so nice P1. The second pitch is definitely the beauty. I made the mistake of letting my partner take this one and you would have thought the bolts were 20' apart (rather than 6') the way he whined.
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Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie'... : Slimy Crack aka Icecubes, P... (5.10-)
By: Matt Richardson When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Jeff - I haven't done that one and was just regurgitating what was in Jeff Jackson's original guide.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Intimidation (5.9+)
By: Matt Richardson When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regurgitator? I am not even sure what that means. And that comment was not necessarily directed at anyone in particular. Feel free to rate it 9+ if you wish, Tyler. I am just pointing out the fact that there are some inconsistencies in terms of the grading here. Let's take a look at what's in the area - would you recommend this route to someone breaking into 9s that just cruised A Dream of Fat Antelope, suggesting that this one is just "slightly" more difficult? Or do you think that Jogging to Vedauw... more >>
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Gaucho (5.10d)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route really seems to play to my weaknesses. It's all there - big moves to nice pockets on a bulgy face. I really don't think this is much easier than Zorro; but then again, I didn't attempt to lead Zorro.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey C K, how have you so successfully masked your comings and goings on Mountain Project? According to this site, your last visit was about 2 years ago, but now here you are, with a comment nearly 3 minutes ago. How odd...
Of course he loved it - who wouldn't?
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : El Matador (5.10d) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did Dede take this pic, Guy? I am assuming that's you...
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Intimidation (5.9+)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am not one to typically pay attention to grade fights, but can we all please stop regurgitating ratings in the books. Most will agree that where the consensus in the guide books was 9+ at Vedauwoo, this typically refers to a period in time when ratings stopped at 9. This is yet another example of one of these old school ratings where the aspiring 9 leader will find themselves first flailing and then probably aiding their way up or running around the backside to rap off and retrieve their gea... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Random Crystals (5.8+)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, after having done what is a worthwhile warm up for this area, here's the lowdown: this route is located about 10' left of Go Left and is the first route after this one. The first 30' probably go at 5.5 on a low angled slab split by a crack (as does Go Left). The business starts at the end of this slab where a wide, steep, and flaring crack diverges into two distinct hand size cracks. To surmount this, throw a jam in on the left hand crack (a hand-size piece will protect his move, althou... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Random Crystals (5.8+)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is located probably about 20' left of Go Left, Old Man, Go Left. Similar to that route, the first section is garbage-y with all of the solid climbing located in the last 20' of the route.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Saigon to Pearl Harbor (5.10d)
By: Matt Richardson When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way to go Christa and Christina, but I think that I definitely agree with Allen. I am guessing that Christa and Christina may be missing something here, as I was able to rock up and over on relatively positive feet and hands.
I believe that right off of the belay, P2 gets in your face and really doesn't let up. I think that no move is much harder than the crux of the first pitch, but there aren't many easier either. The whole second pitch was thin and balancey, adding a certain level of commi... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Jurassic Park : First Iteration (5.9+)
By: Matt Richardson When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, now I have to weigh in on this. I have been climbing slab recently and feel fairly comfortable on it and, agreeing with Dylan and Chris, this thing is way harder if you stick left on the little ledges - maybe 11a/b with reach (I'm 6'2" also)? However, it is unclear to me how you continue right as you get the best clipping stance from those ledges. I didn't get a chance to go back and try it, but maybe you could back off the ledge once clipped and then traverse right.
But, if you do choos... more >>
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