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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Mary Jane Cliff
By: Matt McMurray When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure who you are Braveheart, but you obviously missed guideline #1- Don't be a JACKASS!
If you'd have read the disclaimers I posted on the main Charleston page about where all the information came from, you'd have noticed that I posted the descriptions from the Islands in the Sky guide. If anyone wants to post corrections for me to make just shoot me a PM.
Climb Safe.
Matt
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Sound of Power (5.12c) : Photo
By: Matt McMurray When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet perspective on this shot. Kudos.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Matt McMurray When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Done in one pitch. Lots of rope drag if you belay from the top chain anchors, even with double length runners from the preceding pro. Great exposure, but I wouldn't call it classic....
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : Hot Wee Wee (5.9)
By: Matt McMurray When: Jun 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I did this route in three LONG pitches from the base to the final anchor cable with a 70m rope. I built an anchor on the second pitch after climbing over the roof. There are a lot of bolted belays (and rap stations) so it's best to have a plan before starting.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Matt McMurray When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I had a good time. We had the route to ourselves so we climbed extra slow. =) I would also recommend bringing a #4 to move up the third pitch chimney with unless you are proficient/confident. Be careful where you place it though... I was walking it up without really looking and got mine stuck for 45 minutes while I worked it out. LAME! The chimney crux was tight/harder for me than expected (6'2" 190). The upper pitches are great face climbing. We simulclimbed the ramp placin... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : M & M (5.11-)
By: Matt McMurray When: Sep 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I changed the route "Awesome 5.11+..." to reflect its proper name, "Psycobilly."
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: Matt McMurray When: Aug 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ron's notes will serve you well on this climb... Fun moderate, with the first two pitches being excellent.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon (Veyo)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went to Crawdad last weekend (4/07)... prices went up to $10/climber/day! Ouch! It is worth it if the pool and burger stand are open, but they weren't. Perhaps someone should suggest a reduced entry fee when the facilities aren't up to par (ie- no TP in the bathrooms either).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Shady Ladies (5.7)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is more like 100ft, as when you lower off it takes an entire 60m. I agree with Russ that continuing up through the roof seems like it would be a much better finish. Slightly better than 2 *'s.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Magellanic Cloud (5.9)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Darshan that a crux fall would be painful, hence I gave the PG-13 rating. The protection is good up to that point, but swinging off the traverse would not be fun...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Cold September Corner (5.8)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably the best moderate at this crag. Good protection and fun moves.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Fear and Loathing, III (5.12-)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed at WOC last weekend. Would whoever is putting the retarded tick arrows on F&L please move... or at least tick holds that you actually need to use on the route!?! IDIOTS!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9) : Photo
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had this toy too, and it was AWESOME! Loading my Tonka trucks was never so much fun! =)
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Elbows of Mac and Ronnie (5.11a)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure is some holds have chipped off since Brock's book rated this 5.11a, but the holds following the obvious sidepull felt hard for 11a.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : A Man in Every Pot (5.8+)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best moderate route at Cannibal Crag. FUN!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Ma and Pa Kettle (5.7)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know what the 4th 'bolt' is? It looks like a huge nail with a ring on it, but I've never seen one of these things before on a route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Rose Tower - Original Route (5.7)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I mistakenly climbed this route in search of Olive Oil. By following close to the wall on your right you are lead up the first gully; where I tunneled under a large boulder to start in a left-facing offwidth with a huecoed face (just like Brock's description to Olive Oil). The route went like this:
P1: 5.7- climb up the good slab to a large ledge with a piece of slung cord. Continue up the face/bulge to the left and up the ramp to a huge ledge below and left of a large tree. Build an a... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding my whining post about the approach... okay, I admit that a climb's approach shouldn't influence it's rating. I was tired, frustrated by the other groups we had to rap through, and by the hike out in the dark. The climbing itself was great. I could see the belay stations as not being as bad as I described if you didn't have to stay there long (it was my partner's third multi-pitch, and thus slow climbing and transitions). The exposure is awesome, and the summit rewarding. Okay, fine... ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Matt McMurray When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't consider CC a 'Four-Star Classic,' maybe three-minus and here's why:
1) The approach hike is heinous, especially if you have the 'heavy' pack.
2) Several of the belay stances are awkward or hanging, which makes for sore ankles and a generally unpleasant belay. I too question some of the belay locations... why not place the pitch 4 belay on the huge ledge about 15 feet lower?
3) Rapping through the parties below can be time consuming and frustrating depending on their comfort and organiza... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Lewd, Crude, and Misconstru... (5.9+)
By: Matt McMurray When: Feb 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is lame...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Black Gold (5.10b)
By: Matt McMurray When: Feb 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be a little reachy to the initial ledge and just past the second bolt. Requires some footwork...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Gelatin Pooch (5.10a)
By: Matt McMurray When: Jan 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that this was easier than 5.10, and the best of the easy warm-up routes at the Gallery. I would recommend going up and down a couple times to warm-up. A very fun route, even for beginners.
MM
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Location: WA
By: Matt McMurray When: Jan 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where's the Minihaha area?
MM
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Just Another Pretty Face (5.10a/b R) : Photo
By: Matt McMurray When: Jan 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd have climbed this route on a different colored rope than orange had I known the lighting would be so bad. Close-up the contrast wasn't that bad. =(
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Wake-Up Wall
By: Matt McMurray When: Jan 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I was at this wall in December I noticed another new route to the left of "Shut Up and Climb' that had 5 bolts to some brand new anchor chains. I wasn't sure if this was a new route or if someone had added some bolts/rebolted First Born. If anyone has any information about this please let me know so I can update the routes. =)
MM
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