Contributed Comments |
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Location: ME : Camden Hills : The Rampart : Prospero (5.10d)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second the stick clip advice...
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Location: ME : Camden Hills : The Rampart : Ariel (5.11d)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sent this today, great line.
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Location: ME : Camden Hills : The Rampart : Dream Weaver (5.11a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think .10c is appropriate.
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Location: ME : Camden Hills : Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt... : Exasperator (5.9)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Better than it looks from the ground!
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Location: ME : Camden Hills : Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt... : Groovey Grubworm (5.9+)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb, pretty dirty right now but I'm guessing that is par for the course based on the amount of traffic. Anyway, 5.9 felt pretty on for this one. Not sure about the plus, the slab isn't bad at all, imo. The trickiest part is getting around from under the roof. You are close to a bolt, but a blue camalot protects this move nicely (if you can place it...)
This is also a fun route to experiment with OW technique.
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Location: ME : Camden Hills : Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunt... : Kudzus Corner (5.10d)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guide has this as .11b...
Haven't been on it, so I can't offer any additional information.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Drilling for Dollars (5.8)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not one to complain, but this is a pretty bad route imo. Can't believe it gets any stars....
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Frosted Flake (5.9)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good first 5.9, good gear, crux near the end.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Wavy Gravy (5.10)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definately give this a shot if (or, more appropriately, when) you go to Scarface. Great hands and a standout line for the creek.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Marshall's Madness - Crack ... (5.10a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good amount of exposure up high on this one. Definately a Seneca classic, terrific line.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Broken Neck (5.10b)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I placed a blue TCU or a #1 metolius nut toward the top...at any rate, save something small.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Angel's Crest (5.10b)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Get there early, it's crowded. Rig the pitches so you get to lead the Angel Crack and the last .10 crack. I remember the latter being the best pitch on the route, great finale. .8 chimney to the top is a squeeze.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Snake (5.9)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Skip Diedre and do this instead. I don't remember the .9 sections being too difficult, and it's a way better route with half the crowds.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Edge of Anxiety (5.10d)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Traverse is spicy, but not too bad overall. .10a is probably a fair grade, but I agree that it gets easier the farther left you go. Don't fall.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : East Buttress (5.10c)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was looking forward to doing this route for several years, and it's every bit as good as I'd hoped. Quality climbing the whole way. Definately combine P1 & 2.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Pee Pee Pillar (5.10a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pro from what I remember, short crux. Not a bad first .10 lead in the valley
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, P1 isn't as bad as they say, it eats gear after the initial section.
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Location: NH : Whitehorse Ledge : The Slabs : Sliding Board (5.7 R)
By: Matt Desenberg When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I too "discovered" the variation described above. Quite runout, but not a bad way to climb the route. I was also able to clip a third bold on the right side of the white streak. From there, run it out to the V-shaped flake and it's almost a full pitch.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : The Zip (5.10a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree, perfect first 5.10. Eats gear in a variety of sizes.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Partners In Crime (5.11a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pro, very apparent crux section.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Flying Circus (5.10a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, felt more 5.10 than some of the other stuff in the Bluffs.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Kangaroo Corner (5.11a)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good gear, sequency...
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : The Changling (5.11c)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Mar 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, it's a bit to the right of Conn's East regular start, not the direct start. Conn's East Direct is way farther up Broadway, near Pollux.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Lucky Streaks (5.10c/d)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wonderful route! A different experience than the Reg, for sure.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : The Beast Flake (5.9)
By: Matt Desenberg When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm, I've never even climbed the original Recompense route, always the beast flake variation. Looks like that might change.
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