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 ADVANCED
1 day only.  Straight to a Layton Kor line.  Loved it.


Member Since: Jul 3, 2010
Last Visit: Jun 6, 2014
Contact Matt Twyman


Point Rank: # 2,916
Total Points: 166
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt Twyman been climbing?










Contributions


All 65 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 28 | Page Improvments | Comments 16 | Posts 3 | Stars 16 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Urban Assault Wall : Starfish (5.13a)
By: Matt Twyman When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: PS. Mind the wasps or hornets (not sure which... Either way, flying insects with painful butt daggers) at the lip. Craig kicked his heel right into them. This rather pissed them off. Somehow he escaped without any battle scars.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Urban Assault Wall : Starfish (5.13a)
By: Matt Twyman When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: There are some doctored holds, but otherwise, it would have remained an unclimbable choss like. Instead, it's a bad ass choss pile. Not closed. Humidity adds many grades. Exposure is rad and moves are some of the best fun around. Anyone have the video of Rick Watson walking this?

Ferris, 13a grade may be a little high. But whatev.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : ... : Photo
By: Matt Twyman When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: Jason,
Because of the very concern you site, we didn't apply any sealant to any of the bolts we installed.

Craig,
I don't disagree with you. Had I had chain I would have supplied, but for whatever reason we only had this setup available with us that day. Feel free to replace biners & rings with chain.

cheers,
matt


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : ORP : Photo
By: Matt Twyman When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: You seem to have a lot of outings with awesome lighting.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : North Rabbit Ear : ... : Photo
By: Matt Twyman When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: 127 hours later...


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Needle and Squaretops : Minerva's Temple : Photo
By: Matt Twyman When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: I want to go to there.
; )
curious about approach and where the line goes.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Photo
By: Matt Twyman When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: whoa. Lucky you. Everything feels just right.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : Many Times (a.k.a. Backside... (5.10+)
By: Matt Twyman When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: totally worth it. Great in the sun during winter.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf
By: Matt Twyman When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: Also, the first rap station when you reach the ledge at the bottom of the south summit ramp is missing rings. Looks like someone replaced them with regular hangers. Totally confounding and a bummer.

We just installed two belay/rap stations for Crescendo that offer a quick 2-rap descent from the south summit ridge to the saddle if you have a 70m rope. First rings are about 1/2 way down the ramp on the left. ~ 33m rap takes you to a nice ledge with another rap station. At the time I only ha... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff : Seams to Me (5.10c)
By: Matt Twyman When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: doubles or triples of everything from BD .1 to 1.
Particularly used several .1, .2, .3, .5, 1 plus a few smaller nuts.
Perfect stone the whole way. Mental crux never let up for me but gear placements are all bomber. Powerful 5.10 crux immediately after the pillar with 2 or 3 strenuous gear placements. Big rest, less powerful crux, BIG rest, fair mental crux to top.
My slightly chopped 70m just barely reached. Depending on how much stretch you get out of your 60m, it may not make it.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : One Of These Days (5.10b/c)
By: Matt Twyman When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: no joke on the 70m. my slightly chopped 70 didn't exactly reach. Had to tie in on the upper boulder then stretch it down to the start for TR.

What a freaking classic line. Wonderfully sustained with a few moderate cruxes. Pulling the roof isn't as bad as it may look. Most fun. Really just holding out through the end is the crux. Great power-endurance trainer!

Only a few sections with suspect rock (the undercling flake, just before the obvious giant flake, really should be considered f... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Cloudburst Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Matt Twyman When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: That's the $$$ shot! well done going across the canyon to get it.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Fear of Flying (5.9)
By: Matt Twyman When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: I read all the comments before setting off but still was rather dumbfounded when I hit the crux section in the beginning of the dihedral. Typically confident on 10s & 11s when onsighting but I took twice in this section. Spooks got me. Definitely funky. Consumed all the nuts I was comfortable sparing. Would have plugged more had I any more. Recommend brining doubles or triples of small nuts.

Linked the two pitches and I'm glad I did. Getting out from under the roof and racing up the la... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Lesbian Love (5.11c) : Photo
By: Matt Twyman When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: What a freaking perfect name. That dike feature is jaw dropping cool.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Candyland (5.10c)
By: Matt Twyman When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: I can't fathom how this route would receive anything less than the max # of stars. Absolute joy to lead. The combination of a wonderful setting, fun moves in a funky head space, wild protection on/in perfect stone and reasonable height make this a definitive classic in my mind. I couldn't wait to get on this and was so psyched to onsite it. Felt like I should be paying for this much fun.

4ft runners are ideal for slinging. those aren't really knobs or chicken heads... more like bowling b... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Price For Fire (5.13a)
By: Matt Twyman When: Jul 3, 2010

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Comments: Amazing Line!
I'm very impressed... great vision for finding the line.
Had a blast.

However, time to upgrade the hardware.