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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Unknown Awkward (5.9+)
By: Matt Toensing When: Mar 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dustin,
I don't think Rednekk is 12+ or even close. I rated this route on the basis of how I felt about it after I climbed it (although I know someone else has the FA of this route and rated it on their basis). What would you rate it?
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Unknown Awkward (5.9+)
By: Matt Toensing When: Mar 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will try to post some pictures to lessen the confusion. There are two routes here that both have sandy flakes on top, one is wide and there is this climb, with is thinner.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Blue Mesa (near Gunnison) : South Rim : The Real Blue Creek (WI4-5)
By: Matt Toensing When: Feb 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach took us an hour and a half on skis, but there was a ton of new snow. Not any real significant avy danger on the approach which is a relief. We rapped off of a tree not knowing where the bolts were. On the top of the second pitch (crux) there is a 2 bolt belay on a ledge. We rapped off of that to the piton belay. The ice was aweful and it was warm so we decided to toprope the climb. It was "slush" - aneering at its best, just the worst ice. We both fell a couple of times due to ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butt... (5.11-)
By: Matt Toensing When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route takes the fingers-to-tight-hands splitter just left of Big Guy. Begin with some soft and sandy climbing to gain the ledge at the base of this striking crack. Work through some bomber finger locks with good feet (red aliens/0.5 camalots), a short section of .75-camalot size, followed by tight hands (very tight #1 camalots) through a curve, finish on soft rock.
Doubles though #1 camalots.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Blue Mesa (near Gunnison) : South Rim : Gandalf's Beard (WI4-5)
By: Matt Toensing When: Feb 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry I wasn't able to upload any pictures. The day we climbed this, 2-21-10, it was dumping snow and conditions were not ideal for photographs. On a side note, we got back to the car around 6PM and started the trek back to Gunnison. It was puking snow and our top speed was about 30 mph. About half way back a cop turned us around due to avalanches on US 50. Avalanches!!! Crazy stuff. We had to spend the night in Montrose.
Anyway this is a fantastic climb. Some of the best views I have ever... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: Matt Toensing When: Dec 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: AMU isn't in as of 12/30. We hiked up near the base and could see little ice and no ice at all on the second pitch. There was low avy danger though.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Lake City : Cottonwood Creek (Sherman t... : Sherman Climb (WI4)
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the first two pitches yesterday. Not much ice. The third pitch pillar needs about a month.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Spring Canyon : Plumb Tower : Low Hanging Fruit (5.11 C2)
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will this go free??
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We didn't bring a nut tool with us yesterday on fine jade and got a hex stuck on the first pitch and a cam stuck on the second pitch. Sorry kind of lame but it happens. If anyone happens to retrieve those pieces I am willing to pay for shipping. I talked to some of you out there who were going up there today so hopefully you guys got those pieces.
Thanks a lot everyone,
Matt
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Texas Finger Crack (5.10+)
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Craig Luebben.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Coffin Crack Crag
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is apparently a roped tyrolean that is right next to the coffin. Pull off the road when you see the coffin and cross the river via the tyrolean. This eliminates the need to take the cable wire high in the tree.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Beginner's Slab : Ferringy (5.7)
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun free solo.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can you get these resoled?
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Right ... : The Plague (5.7)
By: Matt Toensing When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guidebook calls it a 5.8 but I pulled the crux on the second pitch and expected a little more. Pretty fun climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Matt Toensing When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have been to The Creek a lot recently and this climb was a fantastic Creek-style climb. One of the best I have climbed in Eldo. Easier than Handcracker. I just wish it was a little longer, but don't we all?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Matt Toensing When: May 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: one 70 meter will get you to the ground
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Dos Hermanos (5.12-)
By: Matt Toensing When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely Fantastic!!! Bloom's guidebook calls it a 5.11+.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : God's Crag : Mileski Wall : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What does the seperation of Meat and Dairy have to do with a little mixed climbing on that wall? There are established mixed climbs on this wall.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : God's Crag : Mileski Wall : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Dec 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like good dry tooling.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Elephant Arches : Black President (5.11a) : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Nov 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: YES!!!
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Location: CO : Crested Butte : Skyland Boulders : The Hone Stone : Weeping Warrior/Berholtz Ar... (V9-)
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The G-spot book calls this V8/9, I agree.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Hartman Rocks : Best Crack Wall : Best Crack (5.10a)
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fixed stopper protects the beginning, you just have to place a quickdraw on there blind. Good stuff. Splitter for Hartman.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Barfy's Favorite (5.7)
By: Matt Toensing When: Aug 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.7+. The only good move on the whole route was the move getting into the crack off of the boulder. Old school for sure. I thought i was on the wrong route, but I kept climbing and had some fun.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Rosy Lane : Mirror Crack (5.9)
By: Matt Toensing When: May 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route on Wednesday after a final. After the traverse, that flake is way sketchy and a little focus is needed to get to that other flake. I definitely give the traverse section to the other flake, about 20 feet, a PG-13 or S rating. #3 cams can be used in the flake above to get to the other ledge.
When I was on top of the last flake trying to mantel onto the last ledge, I broke a small rock off that I was using for my left hand and landed back on the ledge, thankfully. Watch o... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House
By: Matt Toensing When: Feb 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: NEW ROUTE ON the left side of the crag. Saw the guy drilling on the left side today. I can't wait to try but should be a great route.
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