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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Baalbek (5.9)
By: Matt Toensing When: Nov 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Block is "solid" but looks as if it might fall out any minute. Fun climb.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Captain Nemo (5.10d)
By: Matt Toensing When: Nov 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is BURLY.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : The Hitch Hiker's Thumb (5.11 A0) : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Nov 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey what is that roof crack to the left of the tower visible in this picture?
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Location: Mike Willig : More Random Pics : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is the fin wall, close to cat wall though
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Blue Mesa (near Gunnison) : South Rim : Blue Balls (WI4) : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photo by Dustin Elliott.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Blue Mesa (near Gunnison) : South Rim : Blue Balls (WI4)
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is listed in the Colorado Ice book as being WI3 and 50m. This climb is 2 full rope lengths so closer to 120m (I know I put 350 ft on this page, but it is about 400 ft). If you are planning on climbing both pitches, then this climb is harder than WI3, so don't become confused with the guidebook beta.
Also, don't get caught trespassing and give ice climbers a bad rep with the locals. There are other ways of getting there without trespassing.
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Location: AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : Skagway : Incinerator Crag : Incinerater Crack (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed Terrence, very much sexy. How much???
This route is incredible, I've never been to Yosemite but this route is what I would expect separate reality to be like. Doesn't matter what hand size you have because it has thin hand and big hands, but I think bigger hands will have more of an advantage at the lip of the roof. Lower crux is stout as well.
Congrats Clay you Ol' rascal.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : The Point, Powderhorn, Colo...
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing backdrop. Great place to spend half a day climbing.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Curecanti National Recreati... : Curecanti Needle : Northwest Rib (5.9-)
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for posting, Kyle. Looks like you and Andy had a blast.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Matt Toensing When: Oct 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worst route ever?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only about three species of this genus in Colorado. Probably C. gunnisonii as Mike said.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Coffin Crack Crag
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The roped tyrolean is still up.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : PCP Pinnacle : Crystal Method (5.11a/b)
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route isn't listed in Gunny Rock (at least I don' think it is), but it is harder than 11a. It is bolted weirdly. The 6th or 7th bolt would be impossible to reach from the stance below the bolt if you are shorter than 5'10", and you would have to make a tricky clip. Such a great route, luckily it is just less than vertical, otherwise this sucker would be so hard. Have fun, Matt.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern... : The Lieback (5.5)
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did Katy sandbag this route?
I have never climbed this but she always told me it was a 5.5. Probably just to sangbag me as well haha. Next time I am out there I will see how it is for myself.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Juniper Wall : Amelie (5.12a)
By: Matt Toensing When: Jun 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why is the route called Amelie?
Just curious because my very recent ex-gf's name is Amelie, and I would crack up if it was indeed a choss pile. Next time I'm out there, I'll hope on it and see if the two have similar personalities.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Maria's Farewell (5.10+)
By: Matt Toensing When: Jun 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. The start of the second pitch is stout!! Very slippery but good gear nonetheless. I thoroughly enjoyed myself on the OW, it is great stuff.
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Location: Steve Levin : Trail Canyon : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: May 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks bomber!!!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Matt Toensing When: May 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony, I am not sure which bolt you are talking about when you mentioned the "Retro-bolt" but just to clarify there is the one bolt for the anchor where you can belay for the hanging stance. Past that there are three remaining bolts which get you through the overhang pending you have to aid.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+)
By: Matt Toensing When: Apr 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to be clear the 2 top bolts are missing and free moves are required on the ear. I would have wanted 3 #.75 (green) cams and 3 #3 (Blue) cams. There is a drilled pin on the fourth pitch that allows you to run out the first #3 placement for a little bit. Spend time reading the summit register, it is great.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Matt Toensing When: Apr 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last 2 bolts are missing hangers, make sure you bring some nuts to put around the bolt sticking out of the rock. It is possible and recommended to start free climbing here as it is a slab for 15-20 ft. to the summit. Have Fun!!!
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Location: clay meier : ME : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a bear hanging off of your schlong.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Pair a'grins aka Unknown Ro... (5.11+)
By: Matt Toensing When: Mar 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I have climbed this route, do you have any photos??
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Location: General Climbing : A Lee Smith Spin-off - Na... : Post : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Mar 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey that's me in that photo. Those ropes are sexy. They have been up the n. six shooter since then roughly one week ago.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Open Book (5.9)
By: Matt Toensing When: Mar 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jam the crux, don't lieback. Way more fun!!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Cabin Wall : Unknown Awkward (5.9+)
By: Matt Toensing When: Mar 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, I'll give it on the basis that this is Escalante and not the Creek. I just hate being a sandbagger.
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