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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : The Great Escape (5.12c)
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fourth draw, aka the second draw after the first two edelrid fixed draws, is in really bad shape. The rope biner is really worn through (probably because a lot of people lower before the crux) and the bolt biner is also in bad shape. I fell onto this bolt and then examined the draw and decided it probably wasn't a good idea to fall onto it again. Maybe someone will be willing to donate a draw, but for now, it is highly advised to use your own draw and then tr clean it when you are done.
Gr... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12b)
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to add some beta, there are 2 bolts on the second pitch to avoid placing gear in the death block. We belayed on two drilled pins after the chimney/death block at a hanging stance, but the pins are in great shape. I recommend 5-6 #0.75 cams for this second pitch. The last pitch is a little sandy and takes a lot of hand-size pieces.
Great tower and the jug out is recommended but a hell of a work out after climbing the tower.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Hound Dog (5.11a)
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: They should have named this route something to do with the fact that if you fall at the start, you are going to be violated mercilessly by the tree. It would be a very unpleasant experience, but the climbing is pretty easy at the start.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Piz Badille : The Ridge (5.8)
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this a few years ago. All I can remember is some loose holds. Fun outing, though.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Holy Cow! That looks like a great big mess. Glad everything ended up alright.
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Location: CO : Help to Save Red Rock Canyo...
By: Matt Toensing When: Aug 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: They can't build a new housing development!!! Hopefully people rally and do whatever it takes.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Wired (5.10a PG13)
By: Matt Toensing When: Jul 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route today, and it wasn't much fun. The climbing is very very dirty. We continued 3 pitches to the top of the Black Widow Slab and walked off in between Sleeping Beauty and Black Widow. The climbing is easy on the first pitch, but the gear does suck pretty bad and the moss is plentiful. Barely 1 star, more like 0.5 stars.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Le Stat (5.11d)
By: Matt Toensing When: Jul 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha, I agree with Aaron's 5.11++ rating. It makes things more interesting.
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Location: CO : Another Climbing Zine Thing...
By: Matt Toensing When: Jul 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 'Murica.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Spring Creek : Spring Creek Tower : Mountaineer's Route (5.8)
By: Matt Toensing When: Jul 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: New rap cord and rap rings.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : God's Crag
By: Matt Toensing When: Jul 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't forget your helmet!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Romancing the Stone (5.9)
By: Matt Toensing When: Jul 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route isn't good at all. The looseness of the rock makes it kind of serious, so make sure your belayer wears a helmet for sure. I tried to avoid the loose sections as best as I could making it probably a bit harder, but if you just tromp around on the flakes, it is probably 5.8. Anyways, super crappy climb. Not recommended at all.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : ... : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Jun 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did you get enough gear in that crack?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank : North Bank Middle : Uncle Fester (5.10c)
By: Matt Toensing When: May 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, but the start kind of sucks. Getting to the second bolt is not super hard, but don't blow it. Crux is awesome but not very straight forward. The crux for me was staying on route, there was chalk everywhere. Good stuff though.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11)
By: Matt Toensing When: Mar 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a heads up, the last pitch is interesting. After the bolt/pin ladder, we went left towards the arete. This may not be the way to go but to the right looked harder. No real pro after the bolts though.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Learning to Crawl (5.11)
By: Matt Toensing When: Mar 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with using a #3 or #4 nut before the crux. I didn't expect as much exposure and hugging the arête was way awesome. The top anchor is fine and the tat has collected some newer looking spectra.
Overall super great climb
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : The Iron Lady Tower (5.7 C1)
By: Matt Toensing When: Mar 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch out when pulling your rope. We got our rope slung on a big block in the dihedral. Ended up pulling the block down right on top of us and it landed straight on my pack. Fun little tower but what a hike! Geez!!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Blue Mesa (near Gunnison) : South Rim : Gandalf's Beard (WI4-5)
By: Matt Toensing When: Feb 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vic, I went back today and found the bolts. It was snowing like crazy last year and the bolts must have been covered in snow. They were easily spotted today. I agree, you can climb this whole climb at like WI3. But there are some sweet harder lines.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Blue Mesa (near Gunnison) : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Feb 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice photo.
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Location: CO : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Feb 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The red flowers are castilleja, and I think the blue/purple flowers are lupinus. I can't tell what the yellow flowers are though.
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Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Idyllwild County Park : Sites 38 - 41 : Campsite Wall : Right roof crack (V0)
By: Matt Toensing When: Jan 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friends and I called this route "Sexy Time" because it was a pretty fun crack to climb. A fall from the start wouldn't be that bad, but a fall from the top could be very bad. Fun route.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Dec 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahh, I should have known, you can kind of see the epipetalous stamens. Nice photo.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Nov 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Which family is this flower from??
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Photo
By: Matt Toensing When: Nov 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The man in action! This is an unbelievable photo. Thanks for posting.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Canyon Rims Recreation Area : Raven (5.11+)
By: Matt Toensing When: Nov 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: hey this route sounds great but can you give a more detailed route description?
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