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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Birthday Suit (5.10a)
By: Matt Richardson When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Better than advertised. I think that Percious may not have gotten his route right given the 10d rating and the manufactured hold comment. A couple of cams for the bottom and the crack after the 1st bolt make this a little less sporty.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Oct 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, if you toss your rope to the left (east) then it is a single rap - 70 m definitely gets you down, not certain about 60 though. The descent is fairly straightforward; the rap puts you at the base of Bat Rock so it should be fairly straightforward getting down.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Central : Claim Jumper (5.10c)
By: Matt Richardson When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line has a more traditional feel to it, so those used to placing gear shouldn't feel too intimidated by it (if this was a route in Lumpy, it would likely be 9). The bottom is fairly slick at this point, but the flake is pretty featured and provides bomber hands.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Buckskin Billy (5.10a)
By: Matt Richardson When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route s in your face right off the ground. But, once you have surmounted the opening bulge, it eases up to no harder than 8 or 9. I thought this route was kind of bland (as well as the 10c to the right) - some fun pockets but not particularly interesting movement.
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall : Cowboy Joe (5.10c)
By: Matt Richardson When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The top gets fairly thin. But, if you look closely, there is a nice sidepull to the left near the last bolt that is very difficult to see. I don't know if this gains you much for finishing the route, but it may make a better rest than some of those shallow pockets.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Lower Great Face : Left Center (5.9+ R)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route. Did this last Saturday - was about 90 degrees down on the Front Range and was cool enough that I needed long sleeves and pants up on the wall. Seems to stay in the shade in late summer until about 1. We did the direct route which is very nice. Bolt spacing is typical for this area (don't expect Boulder Canyon comfort) - for the 6 bolts to the lower "anchor" we spanned half a 70 m rope. The "anchor" at the the top of P1 consists of a single rap bolt and a wire tied tight together... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty certain that where that rock where the piece near his foot resides is no longer there....
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Location: TX : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like the climber is stressed. Could it be the belay is a little tight? ;)
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : The Minister (5.11b)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome warm up! Unfortunately (as with a lot of climbs at Maple) I got suckered left at the top when I should have gone right. Probably pretty obvious to the non-trundler...
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : Oneida (5.11b)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Warmed up on this one and found the bouldery little section at the beginning to be pretty pumpy. For stronger creatures, this would pose no big deal as the next 60' or so are no harder than 10, but I was pretty gassed and didn't have the umpf to actually piece out the top. And like a lot of climbs at Maple, the top requires a little thought because it is thin and difficult to read. My personal opinion is that the crux lay in surmounting the bulge after powering through this long route (about ... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Jungle Mountaineering (5.10a)
By: Matt Richardson When: Sep 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is most excellent in my opinion. Both time I have been up this route, I have found myself 15-20' past my last bolt (P2 or P3 I believe, my memory no longer serves) and about 10' to the left of my next bolt when I finally realized I was slowly meandering off route (the traverse was never fun).
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Location: Colin Kenneth : Miscellaneous : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Jul 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha! I am fairly certain I have this exact same pic of him on Mainliner!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Wars (5.8)
By: Matt Richardson When: Jul 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: From top to bottom, a beautiful climb. I don't know if it is a size thing or what, but on P2 I felt the hands were good enough, but I could never really get a good foot in that crack - just seemed a little small for some reason (my inherent weakness?). Having not been out in a while, that second pitch provided a little more pump than I expected for a 8. Definitely do this in one pitch - there should be no problem with rope drag on this thing.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Hardware Wall
By: Matt Richardson When: Jun 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know what the 10d to the right of WWW is?
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Kalahari Sidewinder (5.8)
By: Matt Richardson When: Jun 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route had a very trad feel to it. Ended up jamming on a lot of the bottom section. The final moves to the bolt are not difficult but seem a bit smeary for the 5.8 rating it gets.
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Location: TX : Big Bend National Park
By: Matt Richardson When: Mar 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoops. This has slowly evaded my attention. I have intended to expand what I put up there so I will apologize now for the late response, Sara. When I was last there (about 10 years ago now), we climbed over near Indian Head. We didn't have a guide and I put this up hoping that someone would be able to populate using there own experience. At Indian Head, there were actually a fair amount of sport climbs as well as bouldering and I couldn't discount trad (although I didn't look closely). Th... more >>
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Motorboat Rock : Shocker (5.12a R) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Mar 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look at Ben go! When was this taken, Josh?
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Location: Adam Winters : ProfPic : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Jan 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Arrrrrrrrgh!
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Dec 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Head on down to Texas, Josh! I think that you will find the people genuinely friendly, the climbing good and the state big enough so that there is something for everyone.
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Location: TX : Mineral Wells State Park : Scenic Overlook : Practice Wall (5.8) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know bolts are a nono, but what about gear? Both cracks look like potential fun leads (the offwidth as well as the diagonaling crack to the left).
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Lower Blair I : Random Crystals (5.8+)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Haha...not so sure about that Kate.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Royal Arch : ... : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love the socks! Are those shoes rented?
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Warm Up Boulder : Thunderbird (V1+) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice! That looks awesome.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Knothole (5.8)
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route starts about 100 yds to the left of the Friday the 13th Buttress and is apparent by the gaping start of the off width about 30' up (the so-called Knothole). Start in a left leaning chimney that will probably go at about 5.4. Follow this for about 30' to a ledge. Notice the gaping maw of the crack above that you will be struggling to jam your tired body into. This thing definitely deserves a picture. The crack here is wide and deep, tapering down into pure offwidth misery. Here i... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Finally (5.9) : Photo
By: Matt Richardson When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice perspective! I like the people chillin' below.
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