Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: International : Asia : Singapore : Dairy Farm : American Pie Section : American Pie (5.11-)
By: Matt Price When: Feb 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bottom section is a little thin, but don't let that scare you away from this climb. The top has good holds and the easier variation. Overall this is a long clean clean that should not be missed.
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Unknown (5.10b)
By: Matt Price When: Nov 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is pretty fun, and worth doing (at least once). However, it is a little scary being about 25ft off the ground and wondering if you could deck if you somehow botched the clip. Not the greatest choice for bolt placement in my opinion.
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11b/c)
By: Matt Price When: Nov 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also think that the crux of this route comes at the last bolt. The moves I make for the mantle feel 5.10 at most.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : Butler Route (5.5 PG13)
By: Matt Price When: Oct 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is a little loose at the top, but a good lead for a trad beginner.
|
Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : The Pit : The Odor Takeda (5.8)
By: Matt Price When: Oct 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb and probably the best 5.8 sport route in White Rock. From the top of this route you can traverse to the right and set up Gralissa Lean for TR.
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Second Tunnel : Double Sidewinder Splitter (5.10)
By: Matt Price When: Oct 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't like pain, and the hand-size crack in the dihedral just looked too nice to pass up. Be careful if you go this way, there are a LOT of loose rocks. Part of the crux is just figuring out how to move up w/o pelting your belayer with rocks. We also had the added danger of numerous wasps on this wall :(
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : The Maiden Voyage aka The R... (5.9) : Photo
By: Matt Price When: Oct 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sure this is me on lead and Walt W. on belay. This is a great climb, no surprise it's so popular.
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : A Midsummer's Night Dream (5.11a) : Photo
By: Matt Price When: Oct 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Peter - thanks for the correction. Apparently I cannot delete the photo?? so I will add it under the correct climb.
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Casually Off-Route (5.9)
By: Matt Price When: Oct 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route, but not as direct as Maiden Voyage. Pitches 1 & 2 are easy and go quickly. Pitch 3 seemed to be obvious, be mindful and stop in a good location for the start of the next pitch. Pitch 4 was scary for me, but should not have been (had a badly placed nut come out while I was trying to bushwack up the crack, missed my chance for pro & ended up running out the last part of the layback crack). The crux pitch 5, half moon crack, was fun and easier than expected, we ended up staying... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes...
By: Matt Price When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stewart,
Thanks for the info! I guess the description on this page does say that most of the routes go to the top. I just assumed there would be an anchor near the top, or enough bolts to not face a 30ft runout. I'm sure this is nothing compared to Yosemite climbing, or other slab granite areas, but there's nowhere at the top to supplement with trad gear, and I'm a pansy :D .
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Knot Head (5.9)
By: Matt Price When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It seems like the bolted route is mostly on the face left of the cracks / trad route. Either way, it is very easy and tempting to use the cracks, which makes it an option for a beginning leader.
|
Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Suburbia (5.10b/c)
By: Matt Price When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route, pretty consistent at the grade, with fun moves and lots of chances for a rest. Save some strength for the top! Making the 1st & 2nd clips could be substantially harder and more dangerous for a shorter person.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes...
By: Matt Price When: Oct 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area seems really nice for friction climbing experience on some good granite. I unfortunately discovered that one of the hangars is missing from the anchor on Reality Check and the next climb to the left. It seems that this is a common problem for this area (stolen hangars) which is unfortunate.
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes... : Reality Check (5.8)
By: Matt Price When: Oct 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route today and found that the right anchor was missing its hangar!! I ended up having to run the climb out to another bolt (~10ft) and then to the top of the crag to set up a TR & retrieve my gear. The route on the left was also missing 1 hangar or I could have traversed over :(
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Warpy Moople (5.9 R)
By: Matt Price When: Oct 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to Chuck and Tamara for the nice route topo pic. This really helped us to avoid any route-finding problems. As we were told by another party, just about every pitch has its "spicy" parts. We found some use for a #4 BD cam, but it probably wasn't absolutetly necessary.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : The Other Side : The Other Side (5.10b)
By: Matt Price When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Except for the bad "rock" you have to get past to start this climb, its one of the best climbs I've done at Coxcomb so far (haven't been to poutrygeist). A variety of cool moves with route options.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Chicken Little Area : Cruisin for Chicks (5.10c)
By: Matt Price When: Sep 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Decided to give it a try cause it just looked fun! Suprised myself by keeping it together through the overhang, but the holds are awesome! Definetly gets your attention right off the ground.
|
Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Chicken Little Area : The Chicken (5.10a)
By: Matt Price When: Sep 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: As with other climbs in this area, the route is probably harder (10b?) if you stick to the face.
|
Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Pirate's Wall : Oxymorons (5.11a)
By: Matt Price When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route does have its problems. I was pretty freaked out leading it cause I thought I was going to deck trying to clip the second bolt. The top is fun & mellow, but is inconsistent w/ the bottom.
|
Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Bizarre Ritual (5.10b)
By: Matt Price When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know why, but this is one of my favorite climbs at A37, or even Los Conchas area. Varied moves that are technical enough to keep you thinking, good rests, and a final crux!
|
Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : West Rock : Alien (5.9)
By: Matt Price When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just did this route yesterday, it was awesome just like the guidebook said! The old webbing was still there and we didn't have any to replace it :( The bolt with the webbing is a couple inches lower that the bolt with the chain. It would still need several links of chain ~6-7? Sorry I don't know exactly.
|
Location: NM : Socorro Area : Major Wall Area : Major Wall : Juckets & Bugs (5.10a)
By: Matt Price When: Sep 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually one of my favorite routes as a moderate in this area. The tricky start will get your attention, and you get a nice rest before doing the pumpy finish.
|
RSS Feed
