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Member Since: Apr 19, 2006
Last Visit: May 1, 2012
Contact Matt McMurray


Point Rank: # 342
Total Points: 1,573
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
33 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (724) | Routes (67) | Areas (27) | Photos (87) | Comments (63) | Posts (81) | Stars (235) | Ratings (164)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Black Magic (5.8)
By: Matt McMurray When: Mar 29, 2010

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Comments: I highly suggest leading directly up the dihedral under the small roof at the start of the route rather than going up left and then traversing back right after the bolts (as the chalk misleads you). This is maybe a grade more difficult, but WAY better movement.

MM


Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Mary Jane Cliff
By: Matt McMurray When: Sep 18, 2009

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Comments: Not sure who you are Braveheart, but you obviously missed guideline #1- Don't be a JACKASS!

If you'd have read the disclaimers I posted on the main Charleston page about where all the information came from, you'd have noticed that I posted the descriptions from the Islands in the Sky guide. If anyone wants to post corrections for me to make just shoot me a PM.

Climb Safe.
Matt


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Sound of Power (5.12c) : Photo
By: Matt McMurray When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: Sweet perspective on this shot. Kudos.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Matt McMurray When: Jan 20, 2009

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Comments: Done in one pitch. Lots of rope drag if you belay from the top chain anchors, even with double length runners from the preceding pro. Great exposure, but I wouldn't call it classic....


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : Hot Wee Wee (5.9)
By: Matt McMurray When: Jun 24, 2008

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Comments: My partner and I did this route in three LONG pitches from the base to the final anchor cable with a 70m rope. I built an anchor on the second pitch after climbing over the roof. There are a lot of bolted belays (and rap stations) so it's best to have a plan before starting.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Matt McMurray When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: My partner and I had a good time. We had the route to ourselves so we climbed extra slow. =) I would also recommend bringing a #4 to move up the third pitch chimney with unless you are proficient/confident. Be careful where you place it though... I was walking it up without really looking and got mine stuck for 45 minutes while I worked it out. LAME! The chimney crux was tight/harder for me than expected (6'2" 190). The upper pitches are great face climbing. We simulclimbed the ramp placin... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : M & M (5.11-)
By: Matt McMurray When: Sep 5, 2007

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Comments: I changed the route "Awesome 5.11+..." to reflect its proper name, "Psycobilly."


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: Matt McMurray When: Aug 27, 2007

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Comments: Ron's notes will serve you well on this climb... Fun moderate, with the first two pitches being excellent.


Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon / Veyo
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 30, 2007

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Comments: Went to Crawdad last weekend (4/07)... prices went up to $10/climber/day! Ouch! It is worth it if the pool and burger stand are open, but they weren't. Perhaps someone should suggest a reduced entry fee when the facilities aren't up to par (ie- no TP in the bathrooms either).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Shady Ladies (5.7)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: This route is more like 100ft, as when you lower off it takes an entire 60m. I agree with Russ that continuing up through the roof seems like it would be a much better finish. Slightly better than 2 *'s.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Magellanic Cloud (5.9)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: I agree with Darshan that a crux fall would be painful, hence I gave the PG-13 rating. The protection is good up to that point, but swinging off the traverse would not be fun...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Cold September Corner (5.8)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 23, 2007

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Comments: Probably the best moderate at this crag. Good protection and fun moves.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Fear and Loathing, III (5.12-)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 17, 2007

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Comments: Climbed at WOC last weekend. Would whoever is putting the retarded tick arrows on F&L please move... or at least tick holds that you actually need to use on the route!?! IDIOTS!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9) : Photo
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 11, 2007

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Comments: I had this toy too, and it was AWESOME! Loading my Tonka trucks was never so much fun! =)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Elbows of Mac and Ronnie (5.11a)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 11, 2007

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Comments: I'm not sure is some holds have chipped off since Brock's book rated this 5.11a, but the holds following the obvious sidepull felt hard for 11a.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : A Man in Every Pot (5.8+)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 11, 2007

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Comments: The best moderate route at Cannibal Crag. FUN!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cannibal Crag : Ma and Pa Kettle (5.7)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 11, 2007

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Comments: Does anyone know what the 4th 'bolt' is? It looks like a huge nail with a ring on it, but I've never seen one of these things before on a route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Rose Tower - Original Route (5.7)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 9, 2007

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Comments: I mistakenly climbed this route in search of Olive Oil. By following close to the wall on your right you are lead up the first gully; where I tunneled under a large boulder to start in a left-facing offwidth with a huecoed face (just like Brock's description to Olive Oil). The route went like this:
P1: 5.7- climb up the good slab to a large ledge with a piece of slung cord. Continue up the face/bulge to the left and up the ramp to a huge ledge below and left of a large tree. Build an a... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Matt McMurray When: Apr 9, 2007

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Comments: Regarding my whining post about the approach... okay, I admit that a climb's approach shouldn't influence it's rating. I was tired, frustrated by the other groups we had to rap through, and by the hike out in the dark. The climbing itself was great. I could see the belay stations as not being as bad as I described if you didn't have to stay there long (it was my partner's third multi-pitch, and thus slow climbing and transitions). The exposure is awesome, and the summit rewarding. Okay, fine... ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Matt McMurray When: Mar 12, 2007

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Comments: I don't consider CC a 'Four-Star Classic,' maybe three-minus and here's why:
1) The approach hike is heinous, especially if you have the 'heavy' pack.
2) Several of the belay stances are awkward or hanging, which makes for sore ankles and a generally unpleasant belay. I too question some of the belay locations... why not place the pitch 4 belay on the huge ledge about 15 feet lower?
3) Rapping through the parties below can be time consuming and frustrating depending on their comfort and organiza... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Lewd, Crude, and Misconstru... (5.9+)
By: Matt McMurray When: Feb 6, 2007

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Comments: The start is lame...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Black Gold (5.10b)
By: Matt McMurray When: Feb 6, 2007

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Comments: This route can be a little reachy to the initial ledge and just past the second bolt. Requires some footwork...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : Gelatin Pooch (5.10a)
By: Matt McMurray When: Jan 29, 2007

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Comments: I thought that this was easier than 5.10, and the best of the easy warm-up routes at the Gallery. I would recommend going up and down a couple times to warm-up. A very fun route, even for beginners.

MM


Location: WA
By: Matt McMurray When: Jan 24, 2007

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Comments: Where's the Minihaha area?

MM


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Just Another Pretty Face (5.10a/b R) : Photo
By: Matt McMurray When: Jan 21, 2007

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Comments: I'd have climbed this route on a different colored rope than orange had I known the lighting would be so bad. Close-up the contrast wasn't that bad. =(


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