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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Willit Pillar : Unknown Highway (A1)
By: Matt Marino When: Nov 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice place to learn some aid techniques. If you don't mind some suspect pro I highly recommend it. That being said I did this route today and about 1/3 of the bolts rotate freely and need to be replaced. The first bolt is completely gone and near the top one bolt is about 2/3 out of it's hole. You top out at an old anchor made out of 2 rusty bolts and some 3 year old webbing. Reason enough to start carrying a bolt kit.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy
By: Matt Marino When: May 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have any information on Riva Ridge in Lizzano Italy? It was the sight of the 10th Mountain Division's first combat in WWII and being a former 10th Mountain Soldier I'm trying to make a pilgrimage.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : The Trough (5.5)
By: Matt Marino When: May 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The chains are still intact at the midway anchor but one of the rap rings is missing. You can safely thread a 10.5mm rope through the one rap ring but if anyone wants to replace the second ring it would be appreciated considering this is one of most heavily used routes at Big Rock, especially among those with little experience.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Boogaloo Direct (5.9)
By: Matt Marino When: May 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As you approach the anchor you'll be run out about 30ft from you're last bolt. The second bolt is about 50 feet up so you shouldn't deck but it could be a nasty fall/slide (hence the R rating). If you want to manage the risk you can traverse over and borrow a both from Wedunett about halfway between the anchor and the second bolt or if you brought some pro you can slot a nut in the crack that's down and left of the anchor.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Crater Maker (aka Dark Side... (5.7 R)
By: Matt Marino When: May 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route this weekend and I think the 5.7 rating is negotiable now.There is one move a little up from the first bolt where a fairly easy foothold has broken off. It went from a 3/4 inch mini ledge to a dime hold. Overall a fun climb.
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Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horseman's Center : The Cemetery : ... : Exhumed (5.10c)
By: Matt Marino When: Apr 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route and a lot of fun but I think 5.10c is inflated. This seemed to be more of a 5.9 or 5.10a if climb straight up the bolts.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Mount Rubidoux : Island Area : ... : Photo
By: Matt Marino When: Mar 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lesson: Use a rope or at least a spotter it's a long fall onto a steep ramp.
Chris's definition of mostly unscathed: Permanently dented my left cheekbone (minor broken bone, can't even tell), bruised shoulder with lacerations, laceration on the right upper back, deep bruises to the left thigh (very sore). Took about a month to heal. Thank you Airborne school for teaching me to fall.
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