Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Mall
By: Matt Kuehl When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a bad idea. You should write the Red Rock admin (Scary Larry De) and suggest the name change. I agree it's a little confusing.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Allen's Ridge Area : Trench Warfare (5.12+)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Mar 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's been sent as a freesolo, but it's certainly not a boulder problem. Pads and spotters would not be legitimate protection. The ground is briefly near but is more or less just a small precarious dirty ledge, not a landing surface. All the rest is jagged rocks. Probably best to rope up unless you got some super honed OW skills.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Mall
By: Matt Kuehl When: Feb 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: These routes are already posted on MP under the area The Playground
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Resin Rose (5.11d)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Feb 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually pretty sweet even with all the petrified bird shit. Not a classic, but a damn fun OW section with pretty engaging climbing throughout. I brought big gear, placed it, and would do the same again.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Bus Stops Here (5.8-)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Jan 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb (follow) for those new to chimneys. Kinda run out for a lead, but it'd be pretty hard to fall. Fun top out on the pillar then rap off good bolts with two 60's to the ground
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Stick Gully : Stick Right (5.9)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Dec 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is 90' so a single 60m is plenty.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Dentist Chair (5.11+)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Falling onto any gear before the flare/squeeze would not be good, the large flake/crack you climb flexes significantly. As for the rest of the route, it's excellent rock up a very challenging offwidth. Recommended to save a #3 or #4 for the top portion of this climb.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Sport Wanker Extraordinaire (5.11+)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think you gotta send before you can downgrade my friend!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Bro's Before Holes (5.10c)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Nov 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a very hollow hour-glass feature near the top of this climb (after the wideness) that could easily be ripped off. Heads up!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Slot Club Wall
By: Matt Kuehl When: Nov 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A two bolt anchor has appeared mid-way on The Closet and is accesiable for the left finish of Pinball Crack, making this the easiest method of descent for these two climbs.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Slot Club Wall : Pinball Crack (5.9+)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Nov 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it should be noted that there is a detached block with a bunch of choss that sits above the roof on this climb. It is hard to avoid and if provoked could be disastrous. I went left to the bolted anchor and wished I had a #6 with me to protect the traverse after the looseness. That being said this is a really fun and varied pitch that is worth the hike.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Walker Spur (5.10b/c R) : Photo
By: Matt Kuehl When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gonna have to call out the obvious back clip on this one...
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Sheep Skull Crags : Intestinal Flu (5.8)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Oct 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To me the line seemed to climb/squeeze under both chockstones, eventually exiting the bat cave into the wide crack. The second chockstone is a lot longer and is the tightest, darkest, sandiest tunnel I've done in RR... classic!. Not for the claustrophobic/overweight. The tat anchors on top are total garbage so I'd recommend venturing a little further up and trending right to find a bolted anchor. We rapped here with two 60m's.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Meyer's Cracks : Meyers' Crack (Scarred But ... (5.10c)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Without spoiling too much... let me just add that this route is between 35' and 115' feet long and requires climbing equipment between the size of small to large with an emphasis on carabiners and shoes.
|
Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Flake Route (5.10d PG13)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route of the year! Any year!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Photo
By: Matt Kuehl When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wonderfully bizarre
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Playground : The Figurine (5.10a)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion this thing is not worth leading due to poor rock quality. If you're looking for a fun moderate wide lead walk a little further into Gateway Canyon and do Harsh Width. Much better route and way more fun...
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Playground : Repo Man (5.11b)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent face climbing and the best stone at this crag...
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Playground : Electric Orange Pealer (5.10)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Sep 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #5 Camalot saved my friend's ass on this thing when his foot AND hand holds broke off simultaneously at the top. The climbing get easy but the rock never really improves.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Wish Bone (5.9 R)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fine old school climb. Much better than the above comments would suggest. Bring plentiful small gear and nuts with a few larger cams no bigger than #4. The anchor at the top could be improved so bring some new rappel cord if you're concerned. Not your brainless 5.8 so get psyched!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : Left Out (5.10+)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb, very sporty moves.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Photo
By: Matt Kuehl When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strong, when did you go to Ved???
|
Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : Good for the soul : Photo
By: Matt Kuehl When: May 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The trees up at the top of this hike are awesome, Rain Tree is esspecially impressive. You've got a lot of nice photos Gigi!
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Return To Forever (5.10d)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Apr 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw the broken drill bit below the roof, it was my high point after running out of gear on my first attempt. The second attempt proved more successful and I finished the whole thing. The anchors at the top should be replaced, but luckily some other bolted lines exist near by the bail from if you don't mind a little airy traversing. This is certainly a heads up route, with great climbing! I think a bolted anchor/rap above the obvious end of the wide crack would be a pretty ideal pitch, maki... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Mazatlan (5.10d)
By: Matt Kuehl When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, the opening super-thin crack doesn't take very trustworthy RP's. The thin crack itself is also of questionable quality and sounds brittle/hollow, so heads up! The top is really fun and totally cruiser by comparison.
|
RSS Feed
