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 Matt Hoffmann - Matt on 3AM crack


Member Since: Apr 19, 2012
Last Visit: Jan 8, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,311
Total Points: 237
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 281 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 35 | Page Improvements | Comments 52 | Posts 24 | Stars 112 | Ratings 57
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Good Times (5.11a)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: Crazy fun climb! Great climbing throughout with a finish that is way to much fun.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Flake (5.10b)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: Didn't really enjoy this pitch. The climbing felt quite awkward and surprisingly tricky for 10b. Managed to get up it, but I don't think I'd do it again with such a pleasant option right beside it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Sphinx'ter Quits (5.8)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: Surprisingly fun! Neat movement that feels quite secure. Gear appears where you need it even though it doesn't look like it. Well worth doing.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Supervalue (5.10c)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Really really nice route. I was surprised at how much I enjoyed it!

The start is a pain as you pretty much have to back clean aggressively or really extend your pieces to avoid heinous rope drag. The start is fun and a touch exciting. The face climbing has cool, well protected movement and the crack and slab are just fun.

Get on it!

Also, yes, you can rap with a 60. Probably can't lower, though.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face Angling Crack? (5.10b)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: Really enjoyed this start. Went up this so we wouldn't have to wait as we had multiple parties and it sounds a lot better than the 5.6 start. Great pro the whole way and a fun finger section.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scarface (5.11)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: Beautiful line with a fun cruxy start and bomber hands the rest of the way. Once you get past the first 6 meters it's pretty much in the bag and fun as hell.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Sinestra (5.11)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: Seriously one of the funnest routes I've ever done. The crack switch is unbelievable and you feel so badass when you do it (once you are established, while you are doing it is scary as hell!). The roof at the top is stellar and it is totally achievable at the grade. I'm psyched to get on this beast again!

Just remember how long it is and bring a tag line! I had to rap as far as I could on an 80m then down aid to the boulder.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : High Mountain Woody (5.8+)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Fun, straightforward route. Lot's of rests and nice and long so, it is great for those just starting to plug gear.

Beautiful setting.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : A Pitch In Time (5.10b)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Definitely fun jamming and steeper than most of Squamish. Good gear and shaded nicely.

Surprised this isn't more popular!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : West Ridge (5.4)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: Great first route in the bugs. We ran up it our first time up there just bringing a tagline for one rap. Beautiful line and well worth doing despite the technical ease.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Rock On Direct (aka Hard On... (5.10c)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Some tricky finger locks but, a lot of fun! Well worth doing especially if there is a line and you can get up it quick!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Karen's Math (5.10a PG13)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Really good! Traverse was surprising when I got to it but, turned out to be solid.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Calculus Crack (5.8)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Mega classic for the grade. Solid jams the whole way and fun fun fun.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Rambles (5.8)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Pretty fun and straightforward. Best done as 2 pitches or simul the whole thing.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Thriller on the Pillar (5.10b)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 11, 2012

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Comments: Fun route with interesting sequences that keep you thinking. Bring a lot of pro. It is possible to rap with a 60 but, tie knots in the end and rap to the right.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Amazing Amazing Amazing!

Swung leads up Freeway last weekend and loved it. We did the original finish and I thought it was great (though, I haven't done express lane). The first 5 pitches really beat me up which made the end feel a hell of a lot harder than I think it should have. Fell on the 11c dihedral pitch at the crux 5 times before we made it up the pitch. And the roofs are just unbelievable.

Cannot say enough about this climb. Go. Do it. Love it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Pipeline (5.10+)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 9, 2012

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Comments: Amazing offwidth! Got on this last week armed with 2x #6 camalots and 2x VG9! Overkill for the rack but, I didn't mind having them.



Beta Alert! Don't read further if you want to avoid beta:





First thing to note is to bring a 6 to get to the anchors below pipeline. (ie. when doing the second pitch of birds of prey but, going right instead of left). It's easy climbing up the ramp but, I was happy to be able to protect it and keep my second from swinging like crazy if he slipped climbi... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Jungle Warfare (5.10a)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Pulling the steepness at the start is great fun. The rest of the pitches are worth going through but, not terribly exciting.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Birds of Prey (5.10b)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Eagles Domain (First pitch up the splitter) is amazing. Maybe 70m long. Fairly simple to simul climb. (this is p1-2 linked)

Second pitch is a beauty but, can be scary for the follower stepping over after the splitter crack.

Last pitch (third) is dirty. Didn't really enjoy it. (this is p4-5 linked)


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Beginners Luck (5.5)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: Kind of disagree that this is a good first lead just because of the "traverse" at the start and pro in the flakes. It's super easy and short and not that much fun. For my money there are tons of better "first leads". Klahanie crack comes to mind first but, just look around the bluffs for a nice easy crack climb.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Arrowroot (5.10b)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: Fun pitch. The only hard part is pretty short (finger crack) but, the pro is super solid. Just go for it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Merci Me (5.8 R)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: Very real runout on positive edges. Just keep breathing and it's all there.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Peasant's Route (5.10c)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: Enjoyable route. Fairly straightforward climbing except pitch 2. The crux feels a lot easier if you can manage to reach the bolt before pulling it. Top stays wet quite a while but, is straightforward.

Linked pitch 3, 4 then 5, 6.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Exasperator (5.10c)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: Considered by many to be the best 5.10 in Squamish.

Stellar route, great pro, fun movement. Just go do it.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Quarryman (5.8)
By: Matt Hoffmann When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: Great beginner route with lots of pro but, make sure you place the gear properly. I watched a beginner trad leader take a massive whipper from the very end, have a piece pull and pendulumed into the initial ramp.


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