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Matt Ford

Colorado Springs
Male

Member Since
Sep 10, 2006
Last Visit: Mar 20, 2024
10 Points
Point Rank: #32,213 DetailsDrop down

Likes Sport, Boulders
Leads Follows
Sport 5.10a 5.11c
Boulders V4
Member of
More Info


Ticks View All 144

5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 81
Family Jewels
Mar 10, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Several tries today but didn’t send cleanly. Make sure to use the no hands rest after the first portion. Then really thin but manageable. Then brief easier section (11a?) in middle w rail and decent feet. Make next two clips from pockets. At crux, go left hand to side pull, then right to a terrible, shallow 1-1/2 finger pocket out right, then left foot up in center line, finally right foot light flag to the right. Stand up, left hand to upper rail. Then make last clip from decent jug. Feet are awful here but stand up to left hand up to thin, sharp, horizontal hold, then bump to angled higher flake. Still thin but positive. Almost home free now.
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 150
Staying Power
Mar 10, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Bolt to bolt after a long day. Could RP later. Start probably better with little chock stone around left of the arete. Move after the roof reachy but probably best done dynamically. Very hollow flake under the roof on the left but don’t really need it. Definitely stick clip b1 or 2.
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 264
Flesh Tuxedo
Feb 19, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. very crux-rated. Most of climb is mid-10's. Crux at the bulge is fairly difficult, but just 2-3 moves. Good as part of a warm-up.
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 105
No Rest For the Wicked
Feb 19, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. followed nat on TR through B3 or 4. Then led remainder. Very technical, requiring precise movement. Hard moves but not powerful. Crux into the bulge requires left hand (deep) into crack, get feet up as high as possible before the bulge, bump right hand to intermediate pocket to the far right. Then right foot onto nice foot hold in the crack. This frees right hand to come into the crack (and bypass the 2-finger pocket 6" right of the crack). This will set up for better left hand placement next. Step L foot higher and about 12" left of the crack to provide opposing tension for side pulls. Now left hand can move higher into the crack, just above right hand. Right foot has to come up higher at some point here (earlier?) otherwise won't be able to reach the clipping stance. Whole sequence requires body tension pushing to the right and hands in the crack. took 5-6 tries. Remainder done with several cheats (grabbing draws), but quite tired and difficulty remains in mid/high 11's throughout this whole climb. Oh - stick clip is required. Very high first clip.
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 275
Back to the Future
Feb 19, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. strenuous climb! several semi-cruxes, but overall very sustained. Crux 1 going from bolt 1 to 2. Crux 2 at the bulge. Crux 3 thin uppermost 10-15 feet. Go for the redpoint next time. Today, fell near crux 1 when I went right and should have stayed left (or vise versa?). Also, exiting crux 2 just stepped up without any plan really and took a rest.
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 161
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead / Flash. fun. Easy to set up TR for Family Jewels. Jams, pockets, face, lay-back, and sharpies. A little bit of everything.
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Family Jewels Canon City > Shelf Rd > Vault
 81
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Mar 10, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Several tries today but didn’t send cleanly. Make sure to use the no hands rest after the first portion. Then really thin but manageable. Then brief easier section (11a?) in middle w rail and decent feet. Make next two clips from pockets. At crux, go left hand to side pull, then right to a terrible, shallow 1-1/2 finger pocket out right, then left foot up in center line, finally right foot light flag to the right. Stand up, left hand to upper rail. Then make last clip from decent jug. Feet are awful here but stand up to left hand up to thin, sharp, horizontal hold, then bump to angled higher flake. Still thin but positive. Almost home free now.
Staying Power Canon City > … > Bank > 06. Surreal Estate
 150
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mar 10, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Bolt to bolt after a long day. Could RP later. Start probably better with little chock stone around left of the arete. Move after the roof reachy but probably best done dynamically. Very hollow flake under the roof on the left but don’t really need it. Definitely stick clip b1 or 2.
Flesh Tuxedo Canon City > … > Bank > 01. Piggy Bank
 264
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Feb 19, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. very crux-rated. Most of climb is mid-10's. Crux at the bulge is fairly difficult, but just 2-3 moves. Good as part of a warm-up.
No Rest For the Wicked Canon City > … > Bank > 07. Back To The Future
 105
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Feb 19, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. followed nat on TR through B3 or 4. Then led remainder. Very technical, requiring precise movement. Hard moves but not powerful. Crux into the bulge requires left hand (deep) into crack, get feet up as high as possible before the bulge, bump right hand to intermediate pocket to the far right. Then right foot onto nice foot hold in the crack. This frees right hand to come into the crack (and bypass the 2-finger pocket 6" right of the crack). This will set up for better left hand placement next. Step L foot higher and about 12" left of the crack to provide opposing tension for side pulls. Now left hand can move higher into the crack, just above right hand. Right foot has to come up higher at some point here (earlier?) otherwise won't be able to reach the clipping stance. Whole sequence requires body tension pushing to the right and hands in the crack. took 5-6 tries. Remainder done with several cheats (grabbing draws), but quite tired and difficulty remains in mid/high 11's throughout this whole climb. Oh - stick clip is required. Very high first clip.
Back to the Future Canon City > … > Bank > 07. Back To The Future
 275
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Feb 19, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. strenuous climb! several semi-cruxes, but overall very sustained. Crux 1 going from bolt 1 to 2. Crux 2 at the bulge. Crux 3 thin uppermost 10-15 feet. Go for the redpoint next time. Today, fell near crux 1 when I went right and should have stayed left (or vise versa?). Also, exiting crux 2 just stepped up without any plan really and took a rest.
My Testosterone Poisoned Fr… Canon City > Shelf Rd > Vault
 161
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead / Flash. fun. Easy to set up TR for Family Jewels. Jams, pockets, face, lay-back, and sharpies. A little bit of everything.

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 5 5 2
Last Year 50 43 13
5 Years 154 142 52
All Time 156 144 54

Where Matt Climbs

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