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Member Since: Sep 10, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 9, 2014
Contact matt evans

Point Rank: # 4,740
Total Points: 91
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has matt evans been climbing?


All 94 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 11 | Stars 36 | Ratings 21

Contributed Comments


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Utopia : Terma (5.9 PG13)
By: matt evans When: Oct 19, 2013

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Comments: fun climb! climbed this with j helms on Oct 17. weather was perfect, in the sun all day. 2 star sport climbing, 3 star last trad pitch (calcite reminiscent of castleton), and a 4 star view/summit. Base jumpers jumped off the top as we were roping up. Long approach! trail needs work, we scrambled quite a bit

oh, and most important beta of all, next person to climb this needs to haul up a water bottle full of whiskey to refill the flasks in the summit register! thanks for that g... more >>

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Blacksmith Fork Canyon : Left Hand Fork : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.10)
By: matt evans When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: There is now a shiny new bolted route that starts right and then joins the stairway crack. Anybody know its rating?

Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Eddie's High Somewhere : The Title Track aka Eddies ... (5.9)
By: matt evans When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Fun route. I had my eyes fixed on the splitter up pitch #2 so I ended up climbing the crack system just below it for the first pitch. It takes gear well, has a fun challenging bulge to get around (go left of the bulge!), but it's dirty and needs traffic. I'd rate it a 5.9+. Pitch #2 was a tricky 5.9 too. The rock is superb and I will definitely be returning to do some of the pitches on the main wall, iron Hayden.

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pathological Optimist (5.10)
By: matt evans When: Apr 28, 2013

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Comments: Jumped over to this route after getting stuck on bolt#4 of the classic totem route ( left a quick draw up there for the next group to earn/steal. This route is easier. I placed two medium sized nuts and 2 cams (one small cam and one bd 0.5) in the 2 sections that require/take gear. Great route. Crux is 2-3 bolts before first anchor. 5.10b

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Upper Devils Canyon : Pancake House : Cool Breeze (5.4)
By: matt evans When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: There are 2 bolted routes down and around on a ledge climbers left of this climb. The one just climbers left of cool breeze is a fun 5.7 that is all bolted... 5 bolts I think. The one climbers left of this climb is a bit longer, maybe 45 ft and is a mixed 5.8. I placed one small nut before the first bolt and then one large nut in a vertical crack. Next time I climb here I'll post them as unknowns (or perhaps pick up Marty's guide and see if they are named and rated on that one) because they ... more >>

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Hammerhead (5.10a)
By: matt evans When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Very fun route. First 15-20 feet before the 5 bolts is easy climbing.. protect if you want to/have gear. Route is a 5.9 if you use all the features available. Still very fun and the mystical tree that grows out the side of the rock at the top is fun to end up at. Solid anchor - two bolts that look less than 2 years old. I threw in a #4 between the last bolt and the anchor because it was run out and I had it.

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : ... : Razor's Edge (5.6)
By: matt evans When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: As usual, I lost something important after my last climb here on the 22nd. It's a small 3cm by 4cm white, disc shaped electronic device that's used to test my blood sugar continuously. It stopped sending a signal to my insulin pump at the first set of anchors, so I'm guessing it's in that area. I'm going to go looking for it sometime this week since it is pretty expensive, but just wanted to post this in case someone finds it and thinks it is trash.

By the way this is a classic route with ea... more >>

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Eagletail Mountains : Courthouse Rock : Idiopathic (5.9- PG13)
By: matt evans When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: This was a pretty fun route. First two pitches are three star dirty, crumbly climbing. Some of the loose holds add to the mental fun factor. If rock was solid it could be rated a 5.8. Last two pitches are only necessary if you want a summit shot, not too exciting. One to two stars.

I may just be a little bitter though since my phone dropped out of my pocket while rapping the final pitch. Screen on my fancy smart phone is broken and I lost my sd card somewhere -must have popped out (and my ... more >>

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Diaper Rash (5.10-)
By: matt evans When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: Sparse protection between 2nd and 3rd bolts, and before the anchor as well. Unless you have some small cams or stoppers you're risking taking some really nasty falls. Apart from not being safe though, a pretty fun route. 5.9 IMO

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Nothings Right (5.7)
By: matt evans When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: Tricky start. Very fun.

Here's some beta... even though it's scary, get up to about shoulder-height with the first bolt. Clip from there. There's isn't a great spot to clip from until that point.

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Mickey Mouse (5.7)
By: matt evans When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: This route is way harder than a 5.7. Perhaps a large flake has broken off in the past month or so. The first and fifth hangers are missing, like other posters have said. I would rate this route a 5.10a or harder. I led giggling marlin with ease, but this route sketched me out so bad. It's easy when you get up near the top though (I'd say a 5.10b start and a 5.7 finish actually).

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