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Member Since: Mar 25, 2004
Last Visit: Apr 8, 2014
Contact Matt Chan


Point Rank: # 1,615
Total Points: 348
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Contributions


All (533) | Routes | Areas | Photos (53) | Comments (83) | Posts (13) | Stars (216) | Ratings (168)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem...
By: Matt Chan When: Mar 25, 2014

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Comments: It's been many years since I've visited Rushmore and I remember it being very hot and muggy in the summer. Anyone have a suggestion for an ideal time to visit to bag some routes? Thanks!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9) : Photo
By: Matt Chan When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: I encountered that relic a few days ago. Luckily, there is other gear nearby - though a newer bolt in its place would be nice ;D


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Matt Chan When: Jan 27, 2008

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Comments: My two favorite things in life... batman and dinosaurs.


Location: Tea : AVATARDS : Photo
By: Matt Chan When: Dec 22, 2007

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Comments: Awesome.


Location: CO : Empire
By: Matt Chan When: Jul 24, 2007

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Comments: Jim Shaw. You can pick up the guidebook from him or at Icebox Mountain Sports in Fraser. Decent climbing in a very pretty setting.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Matt Chan When: Jul 24, 2007

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Comments: Bringing one rope does sound like a nice option, but considering the chances of being weathered off the Petit - I'd opt for two. I'm not quite sure why Buzz thinks the raps described by James are "strange". Safe - yes, fast - yes, no scrambling - yes, takes away from the alpine experience - probably. Nonetheless, I found the raps to be a great option to keep you out of the bowling alley gully, which I've done before and never wish to do again.

BTW, the route is great and the no-pro section... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Left Wing (5.10c)
By: Matt Chan When: Jul 5, 2007

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Comments: Pretty sustained pitch. Off the belay ledge 5.8 face move lead to another stance below the crux which really zapped me of arm strength for the rest of the pitch. Good gear under the roof lead to a series of underclings to the flake, which is scary feeling. As mentioned above, the jugs at the top of the flake are a relief, but don't really provide much of a rest stop. Place a #1 Camalot in the undercling and jet through to the corner. I fell from this point, as I was totally blown out.... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Right Side (5.7)
By: Matt Chan When: Jun 25, 2007

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Comments: A lot more snow than the same time last year. Quite a considerable amount of rockfall from the top down the (climber's) left side of the face. The rest of the snow will probably melt out in the next couple of weeks.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Church Rock : Regular Route (5.9) : Photo
By: Matt Chan When: Jun 18, 2007

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Comments: Hope that's steel.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: Matt Chan When: Oct 2, 2006

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Comments: After doing this one, head down and do 'Hand Crack'. IMO, one of these grades are wrong, as I found them to be nearly identical in difficulty.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Cranial Prophylactic (5.8) : Photo
By: Matt Chan When: Sep 20, 2006

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Comments: Is that a bolt? Why?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+)
By: Matt Chan When: Sep 5, 2006

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Comments: "Anybody know if this route is still "in" and not iced up yet?"

It's getting cold up there (9/2/06), but the route is as clean as a whistle. To add to the route finding discussions, we were able to stay on route by using Charles Vernon's pitch by pitch description and the topo from Rossiter's guidebook. The only couple of notes I think I could add is that on P6, after leading out of the LF dihedral, there is a gold(ish) section of rock maybe 70 feet above your head that you can see from the d... more >>


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Training Day (5.11b)
By: Matt Chan When: Aug 21, 2006

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Comments: This weekend, I pulled off the jug you reach that finishes off the crux (P1). The 15lb stone went crashing down the hill, leaving an even bigger jug slightly lower. This may make the crux easier to pull through. Wear a helmet.


Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Miner's Delight (5.11b)
By: Matt Chan When: Aug 21, 2006

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Comments: There's a belay on a shelf about 85' up, which I'm assuming is not meant as the first pitch belay (though it is in terrific position to use as such). Using this belay breaks up the first pitch before reaching the crux and allows to you go at it with fresh arms, definitely making the pitch easier. The cold shuts are another ~30' further up from the first anchors you see. The second pitch is really good and continuous, but in the realm of 10+ (maybe... 11-).

Richard isn't kidding about the s... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Aprons : 2nd Apron Right Side (5.7) : Photo
By: Matt Chan When: Jul 31, 2006

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Comments: Hmmm... I started about 10 feet to the right of that pretty flake.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Center Thumb (5.9+)
By: Matt Chan When: Jul 24, 2006

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Comments: Great route that is very continuous from start to end. First pitch belay is at a pin midway up the 'Y' crack feature in the center of the thumb (5.7+). Pitch 2 belays at a nice ledge and belay perch about 120' (5.8). Pitch 3 also belays at a large ledge at ~100' or continue up to the left side of the thumb, just below the crux (5.8). If you do it this way, P3 is long (180'+), but allows you to talk to your belayer during the crux. The belay stance for this option is a small perch with a hor... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : The Green Adjective (5.9)
By: Matt Chan When: Jul 24, 2006

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Comments: Not recommended in 105 degree heat. We thought it was going to be in the shade most of the morning, but damn were we wrong. Greasy shoe rubber and sweat pouring from everywhere made this seam quite a humbling experience. Lesson learned.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10) : Photo
By: Matt Chan When: May 25, 2006

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Comments: Graceful as a swan...


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Gobbler's Grunt (5.9) : Photo
By: Matt Chan When: Apr 30, 2006

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Comments: Chimney... or classic SPlatte hand crack... Hmmmm


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Wholly Holey (5.8)
By: Matt Chan When: Apr 29, 2006

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Comments: Agreed... I did this route a few years back. I thought it was pretty poor back then, but now that I know the name - it's garbage. Keep the crusade to the church.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Lover's Leap : Unknown (5.9+)
By: Matt Chan When: Apr 10, 2006

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Comments: We did pitch one only and I thought it was worth the time. Probably falls in the 5.9 range. Regarding the anchor at the top of the pitch, the addition of either chains or webbing with rings wouldn't be a bad idea. When rapping, all the weight is placed on one bolt, which of course could be bad news if that bolt were to fail for whatever reason. Start the standard route with this pitch to increase satisfaction.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Berlin Wall : ... : Photo
By: Matt Chan When: Apr 2, 2006

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Comments: Hmmm... that's four bolts in ~12 feet. I've never seen anything like that before outside of a gym and even that's a stretch.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Hummingbird Way aka Snively... (5.9)
By: Matt Chan When: Mar 30, 2006

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Comments: I don't think I would bother dragging a #5 Camalot up this. I felt pretty good having a #3, 3.5, and 4. There were a few points where I walked the #4, but I'm not exactly comfortable in wide cracks. I combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches and I was very happy to have both my #3.5 and 4 still with me for the traditional 3rd pitch. For that part, I slammed in the #4 and stemmed the whole corner, which was a blast. Be careful if rapping with a 60m cord, I would guess t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Gorilla's Delight (5.9+)
By: Matt Chan When: Jan 26, 2006

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Comments: Great finish for Prelude To Kong, but expect it to be significantly more difficult. I found the crux to be in the corner above the traverse right, where you roll onto your right foot after a fairly sustained lieback. Really not that big of a deal, but it is a bit heady - as you are committed a few moves above your last piece and a good 5+ feet from your next one. It felt 9+/10- to me, but I think a second go at it would prove that the 9+ is more appropriate.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Sex Favor (5.8)
By: Matt Chan When: Nov 30, 2005

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Comments: No doubt - clip the Elusive Wapiti bolt or else face a 40+ foot runout. I actually downclimbed (downsmeared - yikes) to clip that bolt. Although the upper part of Sex Favor is easy, I wouldn't take it for granted. It's slick granite w/ good edges, but breaking (or crushing) one of those edges is a possibility. The lower section below the ledge felt consistent with other 5.8s in the area. The upper part is probably 5.6 in spots, but mostly easier (when staying left of the shoulder that separ... more >>


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