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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Suicide Rock : Graffiti Suicide (5.9 PG13)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you think if I bolted this rock, it would take away from the fine graffiti art?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : The Green Adjective (5.9)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Jun 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If finger locks and slab footwork are your thing, this climb is an ultra classic.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Mullein Land
By: Matt Brodhead When: Jun 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock can be particularly dicey in this area. My friend and I used to climb the trad lines in this area until I pulled a huge chunk of rock off the wall and took at huge pendulum swing on a manky placement. The rock I pulled off wasn't a detached block and didn't look suspect, so be warned!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Callitwhatyouplease (5.8)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Jun 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. The start had some really fun moves, and the wide section was pretty decent. Hint: knee jams.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan
By: Matt Brodhead When: Apr 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: www.safeclimbing.org/education/bomberbolts.htm
Evaluate bolts in Logan Canyon with caution. There are a few routes that should be avoided until bolts are replaced.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: Matt Brodhead When: Apr 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most of the sites are fine. I see campers all the time and everyone seems happy.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : East Comfort Route (5.4)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Apr 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My first trad lead... oh... the memories!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack (5.7)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Apr 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. Pitch 1 had a ton of fun jams and lots of cool stemming action. I built a belay at the trees, but if I could do it again, I'd keep climbing to the bolted anchors below the off-width.
In my opinion, awkward pitches are part of the trad experience. With that, the off-width section is fine. It's easy to protect and the beta is really obvious if you take some time and analyze the section before you commit to it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Beckey's Wall (5.7)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Nov 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clip the old pin above pitch #1 chains for nostalgia.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Follow the cairns @ the top of the dome to locate the rap anchors.
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face : Big Time (5.7)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: My buddy and I climbed this in the dark with headlamps. The last pitch is pretty fun and finishes on big granite plates.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Ogden Canyon : Utah Wall : Utah Crack (5.6)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Sep 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good place to take beginners.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Kentucky Fried Penguin : Kentucky Fried Chicken (5.8+)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Sep 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: People actually climb here?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: Matt Brodhead When: Sep 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb. Take a 6 pack of beer, because you'll need it after you lead the last pitch!
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