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Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Bauman


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Feb 8, 2006
Contact Matt Bauman

Point Rank: # 1,567
Total Points: 487
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Matt Bauman been climbing?










Contributions


All 131 | Routes 39 | Areas 2 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 47 | Posts | Stars 39 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I have to agree that the 2nd pitch is as good as it comes....I led it yesterday as a 2nd pitch to Over and out...I still wanna climb the 1st pitch of Over the hill but haven gotten the nerve to, yet...soon, very soon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9+)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: GREAT route.....2nd pitch is STELLAR....lots of fun especially combined with the Rewritten finish....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : North Face Left (5.8)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Good climb, better than Northface Center and Northwest Corner IMHO....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: This is one of the best, if not THE best route in Boulder canyon that Ive climbed. 3 sustained, steep, exposed and FUN pitches.....half face and half crack....I wouldn call the 3rd pitch a dihedral (as Rossiters book says) but a flake/finger crack that peeters out with the awesome balancy crux above the crack......GREAT Route....Highly recommended....


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I disagree with Walter, I'd love to see some more South Platte stuff cuz I really don't know much about the areas and I'd love to go climb some good ones there (like the Center Route....although I thought it was on Cynical Pinnacle rather than Cathedral Spires).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Devin's Dihedral (5.9+ R)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I thought this was a quite fun route....5.6 climbing with very thoughtful pro (use slings) to a steep and slick dihedral with a seam (no pro) and a perfect bolt on the left wall to protect this balancy crux. Above the bolt is sustained 5.8 climbing for ~15 feet until a perfect Alien placement...eases off to 2 bolt belay. This exciting and fun pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I agree with George (by the way, your site is one of my faves George), the slick beginning of the crack seemed harder than 5.7 (Id say 7+). Also, a GREAT variation to the final pitch (avoiding the easy chimney) is to step right and head for the HUGE left facing dihedral with a wide crack....climb wide crack for ~10 feet and then take finger crack that angles up and left, becomes straight up and then opens to hands as it angles back right to the top of the dihedral.....GREAT 5.8 finish to this cl... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Quiver and Quill (5.10c)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I understand your point, Walt....but I don't use this site as a "guide" to the climbs, I use it as a supplement. I like to check out what others have contributed as fun or excellent climbs to do....then I get my guide or a friends and go do the climb. I think adding random climbs is great for someone like me who basically uses this site for ideas of possible climbs to do or to see what others have said about climbs I've done. My vote is to keep adding GREAT climbs to give me some more ideas of w... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The 2nd pitch is the only good pitch on this climb and the crux is a short slippery section protected by #4 Camalot...just one move and you are secure with a good hold...pretty cruiser I thought on my second lead, but first time up there I was a bit freaked by the slipperyness of this section also.... Best way to descend from the summit is to scramble to north and look for big ledge with pine tree that has chain and carpet around it...rappel from here to avoid the worst of the down-climbin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: It's interesting how different folks gravitate towards different styles of climbing....my partner wanted to lead Whiplash (10c roof crack left and up from the top of Xanadu) but after scoping Xanadu he said he didn't want to lead it, so I volunteered to lead Xanadu so he could lead Whiplash.....I love those balancy dihedrals (this one reminded me of Green Spur's crux) with THIN cracks, my buddy doesn but he likes overhanging hand/fist/offwidth cracks......needless to say we compliment each other... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: You can also do a nicer first pitch by taking the clean right facing dihedral with thin crack about 15 feet left of the original start. This is the Art's Spar start and is 5.8..... Did this yesterday as well as the Rover variation 2nd pitch...AWESOME overhanging crack in a large left facing and angling dihedral...., SOLID 5.9 with no rests.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Upside The Cranium (5.10b/c)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Richard, have you done Sunshine Dihedral (just left of Upside)? It looks like an incredible line in a beautiful dihedral...there are also numerous other cracks (and one other overhanging corner called Casual Corner) on this crag that look nice...done anything else here? Just curious...I went there to climb one day in January, but the sun wasn't shining on it, so we passed...can't wait to go back soon (I want Sunshine Dihedral...hehehe).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I loved pitch 1....almost 200 feet of steep jamming and stemming to the roof that takes a #1 Camalot and then you traverse straight left with no pro for 30 feet to large ledge with tree anchor. I loved this pitch but my partner at the time invited his "girlfriend" and she fell at the steepest section in the dihedral and got a bit banged up (rope stretch and she took an upside downer cuz her foot got stuck in the crack) and then, after recovering, she climbed up to the roof, pulled the @PO... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7+)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Agree this is excellent and exciting.....but I plugged a perfect #5 Camalot for the traverse.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: My buddy said that pitch 1 was the only pitch he liked on the route and that the rest of it was meandering and non-aesthetic....no matter, I just love big dihedrals with jamming and stemming....Right Dihedral on the Pear is very similar but much harder. I wanna do Grapevine, Guillotine, Mainliner and a bunch of the others also...Kor's Flake was a blast.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Eumenides (5.8)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I agree Charles, I've heard mixed reviews about Eumenides, and since there are plenty of other routes on Sundance I want to climb, I doubt I will get on Eumenides again anytime soon. The Nose looks awesome!!!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: The guidebooks all rate it 5.9.....when I led it I thought it was pretty easy for 5.9 but then most of the Dream canyon climbs seem a little inflated to me also (remember Long Dong Dihedral). Id say 8+ is fair since the 1st pitch is pretty sustained but the second pitch is definately easy 5.7. Theres an awesome one pitch line called Brief History in time on the right side of Dream dome thats also rated 5.9, is more sustained and has a much harder finger crack than Wrinkles crux finger crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: That's whats so cool about upper dream, its part trad, part bolted.....its not exclusively sport climbing by any means....the guide book says take some gear and QDs....Ive led Wrinkles with a light rack and really all you need is one nut or small cam for the finger crack and the rest is fine with the bolts.....GREAT climb.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Watchtower : The Watchtower Corner (5.9-)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I climbed this a few months ago (December I think) but it was a crappy day......it is such a nice looking line....I started up wet slabs for 25 feet of easy but slippery (it had been snowing the last week and this is north facing) slab to gain the HUGE corner. A decent crack with easy stemming on lichen covered and wet rock for 100 feet and you reach a roof/bulge and the crack widens to #4 Camalot (I had only 1). By now a snow storm was dumping wet snow and my rock shoes were not feeling... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island II : Candelaria's Crack (5.12a)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: I love this area....it is great when the kids fall asleep in the car and I can pull over almost right under Candelaria's Crack and do some easy but fun bouldering for 30 minutes. There is a great hand crack/lie back corner down the wall about halfway, there's an old piton protecting the upper moves (in case you want to lead it....great beginner lead but short, 25 feet topout). It is maybe 5.6 but great to just work on jams eliminating feet (only in crack) and toping out and down climbing it...... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Emerald City (5.9)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Led this pitch today and I have to say that it is one of my favorite, if not my favorite 5.9 pitch in Eldo...a great finger crack in the back of the dihedral, some cool stemming in the tight corner...the 2nd half has an awesome hand crack that goes all the way to the belay...very sustained and LOTS of fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Xanadu (5.10a)
By: Matt Bauman When: Jan 1, 2001

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Comments: Led this today as my first 5.10 trad lead...fun climbing but didn't feel as hard as Emerald City...go figure...recommended.


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