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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Enter the Sandman (5.10a)
By: Marty Brenner When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route but lots of still soft rock in the middle. Should clean up nicely with use. Fixed nut in crack is gone, but you could place a small piece or just skip it and not worry.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Chambered Round (5.10)
By: Marty Brenner When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is a total Variety Package - it has a little of everything. Which makes it a lot of fun!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles In The Sky : Celebrated Beast (5.8+)
By: Marty Brenner When: Nov 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it actually starts with a couple balancy face moves past a bolt (crux). Then it goes a bit past groundfall level before getting into the crack. The fixed pin is near the top of the crack, before going back to face climbing past more bolts.
Don't let the groundfall potential fool you, though. The harder moves are well protected and the moves are easier getting to the crack. Definitely a route worth doing if you are already at the Isles in the Sky.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : El Cracko Diablo (5.10a)
By: Marty Brenner When: Oct 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought it was hard and awkward, especially with the (for me) off-fingers crack in back. Then I realized I was actually secure and not falling out of the thing. Its good to challenge yourself with something a little less straightforward sometimes. Plus, no lines for this one. Enjoy!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: Marty Brenner When: Sep 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route IS 5.7+ and well protected. You can place AT LEAST two good pieces getting to the crack. A #4 Camalot down lowish, a yellow (?) Metolius TCU a little higher, etc.
Some people screw up by taking the wrong line to the crack (off route). They climb straight up for it. My friend Dion made that mistake and almost died. His head landed right between two rocks at the base and he only broke his knee. Maybe we just need painted connect-the-dots on the rock to show the correct line... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : Lama (5.10b)
By: Marty Brenner When: Sep 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. I'd give it two more stars if it was just longer.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Cracked Wall : 60 Seconds Over Soledad (5.6)
By: Marty Brenner When: Sep 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely 5.6. Remember that flares, offwidth, etc. seem to have a different rating system to them...
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Powerplay (5.8 R)
By: Marty Brenner When: Sep 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, we used to TR it when rapping down that side of the wall. I know for certain that Rich Jollisaint TR'd it in about '90. But I'm sure that it was done at least 10 years before him...
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Knee Surgery (5.9+)
By: Marty Brenner When: Sep 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I only placed three bolts. A fourth bolt would be nice for a direct finish through the bulge (probably mid.11). I'm living in CO now and won't finish that project, so have at it. The holds are sharp, but it is all there.
Also, Ross Newby should get credit for doing the first ascent with me.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Shadow (5.7 R)
By: Marty Brenner When: Sep 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's with the rating? This used to be regarded as the benchmark 5.7 (maybe 5.7+ on a high-gravity day). Maybe call it 5.7+R.
A leader should definitely consider this a RUNOUT climb. You can place a bomber nut/cam near the start, but you are definitely at groundout level before clipping the first bolt.
I highly recommend this climb! Most excellent. For added fun, set up a TR and play around with variations: stay left of bolts, climb straight over the bolts, climb Lycra, etc.
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