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Rock Climbing Photo: Stairway to Heaven


Member Since: Jul 16, 2003
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact Martin le Roux

Point Rank: # 3,054
Total Points: 210
Last Year: 55
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Martin le Roux been climbing?










Contributions


All 509 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 28 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 41 | Posts 416 | Stars 16 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : The Ribbon (WI4)
By: Martin le Roux When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Just because the CAIC rates the avalanche danger as low-to-moderate doesn't mean this route is safe. We had a very narrow escape this past weekend when the bowl above the climb released just as we'd finished climbing and were preparing to rappel. Fortunately we were tied in and the anchors were out of the way of the worst of the avalanche, but we were pounded with snow, and I was swept off my feet. The avalanche ran for about 1,000' below the climb. If we'd been climbing at the time or half-way ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : A Walk in The Park : A Walk In The Park (5.5)
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: One can also get from the Chief's Head/Pagoda col to the summit of Pagoda via a traverse ledge on Pagoda's SW Face. It's almost all 4th class or easier except for one or two easy 5th class moves. Details here: mountainproject.com/v/west-rid....

Peter: to add to the confusion, there's another version of the "Glacier Gorge Traverse" at mountainproject.com/v/glacier-.... That version starts with the Arrowhead/McHenry's ridge and leaves out Storm P... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Glacier Gorge Traverse (5.7+)
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: For those that don't want to carry a rope or solo 5.7, there's an easy alternative to the W Ridge of Pagoda. See mountainproject.com/v/west-rid....


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie : South Face (5.8+)
By: Martin le Roux When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: In case this isn't clear from the above comments, there are at least 5 different finishes.

1. The original finish: Off-width on the L side of the S face. This is the one in the main route description.
2. Finger crack to its right. See Leo Paik's 2002 comment.
3. Steep crack with pins up the middle of the E face (the original finish of the "standard route", not to be confused with the standard finish of the S Face route). See Erik Corkran's and ac's 2002 comments, and J1's 2010 photo.
4. Off-wid... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Otis Peak : Zowie
By: Martin le Roux When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Bring hiking shoes for the descent. It's not rappels all the way like the Petit Grepon or Saber. There's a long scramble down a loose gully. Not fun in rock shoes.


Location: North America : Canada : Yukon Territory : Mount Logan
By: Martin le Roux When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: As of the 2015 season it's no longer possible to (legally) access Mt Logan from Alaska. Canada Border Services Agency is no longer giving permission to cross the Alaska/Yukon border in remote locations, and without CBSA permission Parks Canada won't issue a mountaineering permit for trips starting in Alaska. Hopefully this will change in future, but right now that's the case.


Location: North America : Canada : Yukon Territory : Mount Logan : Photo
By: Martin le Roux When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Nice picture. That's Mt St Elias and Mt August in the foreground; just the top part of Logan is visible behind them.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Peak 11,300 : South West Ridge (5.8 M4) : Photo
By: Martin le Roux When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: This is highly foreshortened. Photo was taken at 8,000'; 1st col is 9,000', Grey Rock is 9,700'. Summit is out of sight and another 1,600' above Grey Rock.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Peak 11,300 : South West Ridge (5.8 M4)
By: Martin le Roux When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Excellent route. We climbed this in May 2014.

- Snow levels were low this year and we had to climb rock in a couple of places we weren't expecting, e.g. above the Thin Man Squeeze and getting up to the notch before the 2nd col.

- We found the last 500' of 50-55 degree slopes below the summit to be mostly ice with minimal snow cover. Don't skimp on ice-screws unless you're comfortable soloing that kind of terrain.

- Don't underestimate the descent. The first part is a long descending traverse... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski De... (R)
By: Martin le Roux When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: If you're starting at Sandbeach Lake trailhead, don't go all the way to Sandbeach Lake. Stay on the trail for about 2/3 mile past the Hunter's Creek crossing, then head NNW through open forest for about 1/2 mile. If you do it right, you'll rejoin Hunter's Creek just below treeline. This is shorter than going all the way to Sandbeach Lake but avoids dense forest lower down in Hunter's Creek.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Enter The Dragon (aka Old R... (5.7 M4)
By: Martin le Roux When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Added a photo showing pitch 6. This is a lot steeper and more sustained than the pitches lower down. When we climbed this in April 2014 there was no sign of anyone having done this pitch in a long time. It ends at a large, rubble-strewn ledge. We rappelled the pitch and downclimbed to get back to the rap point at the top of pitch 4 (see above comments from 2013). According to Gillett's book, it's possible to continue along the SE ridge, but that looked like it would be a long way and would invol... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Glacier Gorge : ... : McHenry's Notch Couloir (5.4 AI2)
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Do not - repeat, not - do as we did and attempt this in late August. The top of couloir had melted out, and we had to climb up loose, microwave-sized blocks perched on 50 degree mud. It might be a nice climb earlier in the summer.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : North Face Highlight Tour (5.8)
By: Martin le Roux When: Aug 7, 2013

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Comments: For more beta on the approach via Owen & Gunsight Notch see mountainproject.com/v/the-gran....


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8)
By: Martin le Roux When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Went back and completed the traverse over 3 days from Aug 2-4, 2013.

- There are at least two different ways to get from Owen to Gunsight Notch. (i) Follow Rolando's description and cross to the W side of Owen's S ridge at the first notch S of the summit, or (ii) stay on the E side of the ridge for a couple of hundred feet, then cross to the W side at a notch further south. Either way there's much exposed down-climbing and for most people a couple of rappels. Alternative (i) has more loose rock... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Glacier Gorge : ... : The Hourglass Couloir (M4)
By: Martin le Roux When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: As of June 8 2013, this was melting fast. We managed to get up pitch 1 despite running water at the first chockstone (my partner Steve did the leading). It might have been possible to climb further, but we bailed because of icefall from above. Another party was starting the climb as we hiked out; don't know how they fared.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Martin le Roux When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: Don't be distracted by the shiny new bolts a few feet to the right of the dike on pitch 3. Those belong to Eye in the Sky.

If you're climbing with an inexperienced second then double ropes help minimize the pendulum potential when following pitches 1 and 3. But they're sure heavy to carry all that way.

Most of the belays are semi-hanging. Bring comfy shoes and avoid climbing as a party of three.


Location: Africa : South Africa : Table Mountain : Touch and Go (5.10c)
By: Martin le Roux When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: First ascent (1961) was by Richard Williams, Paul White and Barry Fletcher. I've posted some scanned photos from their original trip report.


Location: Africa : South Africa : Table Mountain : Jacobs Ladder (5.8)
By: Martin le Roux When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Maybe it's not done this way any more, but the original route was done in four pitches (not counting an approach pitch):
P1. Same as Davecro's P1, except I don't remember a semi-hanging belay.
P2. Continue up a juggy crack through the overhang, then traverse left to a stance on a bushy ledge (about 10m, S African grade 15).
P3. Traverse back right past the top of P2, then continue up and right to join Daverco's P2. Alternatively, you could set up a hanging belay at the top of the juggy crack on ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale & uphill : Northwest Face Route - That... (WI3-4)
By: Martin le Roux When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this on Nov. 4, 2012. Lots of ice and hardly any snow.

We started down the descent gully mentioned by Leo Paik, but it was very loose and we changed our minds. If you need to get back to the base of the 1st pitch, then it might be better to bring double ropes and rap the route. There are rap slings in place most of the way up.

We ended up going down the way described by Scott Bower. For those with compasses, note that you start by heading NE (not E), and the gully drops down to the N, ... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : El Matador (5.10d)
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: To answer Micah Kurtz's question: Your guess is correct. Pitch 2 ("the pitch you've heard about") is indeed the 10d pitch.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8)
By: Martin le Roux When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: We did the Cathedral Traverse on July 20-22, 2012, which would normally be considered early season, but it was a low snow year, so maybe this counts as mid-season.
- We used crampons and an axe to get down to & across the Koven col, and in a couple other places. Lightweight aluminum crampons were fine.
- There's a good bivvy spot just below the summit of Owen, on the E side of the S ridge.
- The Ortenberger/Jackson book describes a descent of Owen's W Ledges that's different from Rolando's descr... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka : Whorehouse Hoses (WI4-5)
By: Martin le Roux When: Feb 14, 2012

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Comments: Pitch 1 is a bit longer than 60m, at least on lead. We had to simul-climb for a few feet. Double 60s were fine on rappel.

As of Feb. 2012, the base of pitch 2 (the easy pitch) was a snow bridge above flowing water. We discovered this because my parter punched through when rappeling.


Location: General Climbing : Beckey's New Book : Post : Photo
By: Martin le Roux When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: Yes, it's copyrighted, but I think this is fair use.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale & uphill : North Face Icefield
By: Martin le Roux When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: This is called the "Thatchtop-Powell" icefield in a couple of guidebooks (e.g. Gillett, Cooper "Colorado Snow Climbs"), which is an odd name since it doesn't actually finish between Thatchtop and Powell -- it finishes on the Taylor Peak side of Powell. Powell North Face is a better name.

As of late Sept 2011, this was hard neve with a thin layer of new snow. Angle was about 45 for the most part, maybe 50-55 degrees at the top of the couloir right of the rock rib. Cooper's book says 65 degrees, ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Southwest Corner (5.10-)
By: Martin le Roux When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Great climb. The only reason I give it less than 4 stars is that there's some suspect rock on the upper pitches, especially if you climb too far to the left on the last two 5.8/5.9 pitches. The crux pitch is sustained, but I think 5.10a is a fair rating. I didn't find it as hard as the 5.9+ pitch on Syke's Sickle, for example.


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