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Rock Climbing Photo: On Rabbit Ears


Member Since: Dec 10, 2011
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
Contact Marta Reece

Point Rank: # 284
Total Points: 2,336
Last Year: 611
Last 30 Days: 216
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 574 | Routes 69 | Areas 15 | Photos 269 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts 21 | Stars 103 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : ORP : West Face (5.8+)
By: Marta Reece When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: The rap line has issues, the major one being the tendency to get the rope stuck behind the chock stone near the bottom of the second rappel, so that someone has to climb up and then down-lead the chimney at the start of pitch 2.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Bastion Wall
By: Marta Reece When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: The quality of the old topo appears to be rather poor. A route shown to go sharply and far right goes right only minimally. Then where it is supposedly headed up, it needs to go left. That sort of a thing. It should be considered a rough guide only.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Rabbit Ears Slabs : Mother's Day (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Pitch 3 can go directly up from the tree at top of Pitch 2. Go up the head wall near the right end of doable to a large tree. Continue up the slabs as you wish. Can run for nearly a full rope worth to the top. Scramble along the ridge line down to the rappel at Bucky Blue.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : Lost Peak : South Face (5.6)
By: Marta Reece When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: We have rappelled off the south side with a single 60m rope. This was not enough to get us to the ground, but the ramp on the south side is easy enough scramble down to make this a viable rappel option.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : The Citadel : ... : Photo
By: Marta Reece When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Please do NOT follow the route as pictured here. A loose block on the left makes this unsafe. See other images for new version of Pitch 3.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : North Rabbit Ear : ... : Photo
By: Marta Reece When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Warning: The 5.6 rating, along with all of the topo, are based only on old records. The ratings of other routes in vicinity have gone up about two points in that time, and some feel sandbagged at that. Even the rock may have changed.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Middle Rabbit Ear : Photo
By: Marta Reece When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: According to Pat Geoannini the rope has been a part of that anchor back in early to mid 80's. What's more, it had a lichen on it then!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Middle Rabbit Ear : West Face (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: Alternative start of Pitch 3:

From the tree instead of going up the corner start left and take the narrow open book on the side of the bulge there. It's easy going and fully protectable up to the location where it meets up with the two parallel cracks of the description above. From here you can continue up the crack, as per description, or go left to a piton (which can be backed up). Above the piton is an easy but intimidating slab with no pro possibilities. Fifteen feet of... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda : Fun and Games (5.9)
By: Marta Reece When: Aug 6, 2016

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Comments: Alternative finish to Pitch 5 is to exit the dihedral to the right when less than half way up it. Go right on large cracks, then follow a crack under a roof the rest of the way. More protectable and fun, except for a bush you have to get through at the very top.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Rabbit Ears Slabs : Bucky Blue (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: The large tree functioning as an intermediate rap station was a juniper and it died in the big freeze in 2011. Juniper wood is quite durable. That and the size of the tree make the rap station probably acceptable at this time, even though the tree is dead.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : East Slabs : Normal Route (5.7 R)
By: Marta Reece When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: On Pitch 3 you need to head somewhat to the right to hit the good right-facing corners. Going left does end in a right-facing corner, but it sets up Pitch 4 with a huge runout which can be completed only by simul-climbing.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Cross-trainer (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: Found under Checkerboard: an instrument manufactured by Motorola. If it's yours,contact Marta Reece.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall
By: Marta Reece When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: Found under Checkerboard: an instrument manufactured by Motorola. If it's yours,contact Marta Reece.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of Bat C...
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: We found the rock in this area decidedly chossy, or at least choosy looking (to the point of scary). This was in sharp contrast to Superhero Wall. Could be because it's new, but the rock type seems different as well.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Punch In The Nose (5.8) : Photo
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 1, 2016

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Comments: Going for the top out of King Me, as was done in days of old according to Karl Kiser, makes even more sense now as it makes the pitches much better balanced in terms of grades. When the description of Punch in the Nose was first posted on Mountain Project, the route was rated 5.6 and provided an easy way to the top of Checkerboard. But then a hold came off and the crux became two grades harder. Suddenly having two pitches of 5.5 above it didn't make all that much sense. To top it off, the last p... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Punch In The Nose (5.8) : Photo
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 1, 2016

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Comments: There are two protection opportunities before climbing the crux, under the lip as shown (red 0.1 X4) or in the hueco (#4 Camalot). Climbing directly above them is possible but holds become desperately small, definitely above the 5.8 rating. Going up the admittedly somewhat chossy slab to the left is how I have done it. Either one way leads to a horizontal crack below the diamond-shaped roof. Following this crack to the right is easy. There is one more slabby step of some interest, not as h... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Marta Reece When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: A partial list of the loose rocks along the route: (1) The obvious pile that looks about ready to go on Pitch 7 still won't trundle, but at least no one is likely to protect under it.

(2) More worrisome - a large sheet short distance above this. The crack to the right just before the piton has widened from a #2-crack to a #4-crack recently. And it grew a secondary crack to the left of it. That entire sheet is on the move. This is where we used to protect, as any pro gets small and ... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Card Deck
By: Marta Reece When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Here is what I heard about climbing on the Card Deck from Karl Kiser: "Edmund Ward did most of the exploration in the area. If one climbs on the left side of the formation, the pro may be thin (up to R). Jokers Wild is the climb to do. Be prepared for old school 5.8. A small bolt kit might be useful but I remember one could bypass the bolt protected face at the top."

I have climbed what I thought was the first pitch of Joker's Wild (Approached from Lambda Wall). The climbing was about 5.6 and p... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Wedge : Normal Route (4th)
By: Marta Reece When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: I have led the route using only a single sling, a cordelette, and one 60m half rope. This minimal equipment was perfectly adequate for a comfortable lead. There is nothing other than the rope needed on the jam crack. (I scrambled it, but in the past I have tossed a rope over an oak branch for protection.) The half rope can be folded over for the short lead on the summit pitch. The piton looks trustworthy, and there are enough bushes and pinches available. The rappel is clean and goes to the star... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : North Organs : Lambda : Yellow Brick Road (5.7+)
By: Marta Reece When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: There is an active bee hive in the small oak tree just a few feet from the path pitch 1, about quarter of the way up it.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : La Cueva : Sunny Side : Black Streak (5.10)
By: Marta Reece When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: A top rope can be easily set up by scrambling over from the bolts of The Bulge.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : La Cueva : Sunny Side : Shortcut Scramble (4th)
By: Marta Reece When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: If you can scramble it, which is plenty easy to do, it is a shortcut. If you are not comfortable doing that, go left around the whole rock and walk up the back. The gaping off-width the route follows doesn't take gear with any grace at all. You can protect your first move, and sort of protect the step at the top, with maybe one marginal #4 placement in between, but it really is fourth class - to be treated as such.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : La Cueva : Sunny Side : Welcome to Las Cruces (5.5)
By: Marta Reece When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: If soloing the route, you can skip the steep, pocketed face and walk behind the formation for an easy step-up onto the platform leading to the bolts of Piton Power. This avoids the crux of the route and drops the rating to barely fifth class if that.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Middle Rabbit Ear : West Face (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: Bail option: If you were to set up your rap anchor at the Pitch 3 belay, two 60m ropes would take you to the ground in a single rappel. All you'd have to do is go down the clean, vertical plane next to Church Key (not down the route). From there you can scramble toward the Middle Rabbit Ear/North Rabbit Ear saddle by going north and up over the top of a bit of a buttress, then down to the saddle, and down the gully and then left to the start of the route.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Middle Rabbit Ear : West Face (5.7)
By: Marta Reece When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: The original rap line on the south to Normal Route was set up for a single 60m back in the day. However, the intermediate rap station has deteriorated into unusability. Two ropes are required.


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