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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: markguycan When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: 20yrs and it's still ingrained on my brain, thx -for the reminder.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : Jap Head : Authentic Life (5.10 C1 PG13) : Photo
By: markguycan When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: actually I used a couple small nuts, a large cam and one finger sized cam on the 1st pitch lead. Second pitch really isn't chossy- a little mossy up top. Third pitch- is pretty cool- if only I were stronger!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : Jap Head : Kamikaze Corner (5.10d R)
By: markguycan When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: location should read NE corner!
There is now a bolt and fixed piece atop the first pitch, would be nice to have another bolt!
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Location: AZ : Sedona
By: markguycan When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: heard from wolfe it hasn't been fully edited yet- maybe next summer?
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: markguycan When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, bolting near a crack is BAD STYLE.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : Grand Orcaface Tower : Maid in the Shade (5.8+ C1-2 R) : Photo
By: markguycan When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I dig yer style, dude!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : West Temple : Big Lie (5.10+ R)
By: markguycan When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=37.20335,-1>>>>>
copy and paste that for a good map
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Location: AZ : East Clear Creek : Full Value (V3-) : Photo
By: markguycan When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: the top is scary but it gets easier- I rate it only 10c. We called it Ecstasy after the difficult arete in Pine Crk Canyon in the Eastern Sierra. Then the second time, my buddy Mike yelled "Take" when he was coming off. We all appreciated the ide of taking while DWS!!
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Photo
By: markguycan When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's "Green Lantern"!
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Redneck Protester (5.11a/b)
By: markguycan When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes Jimbo the 2nd roof does pull to the right, yeah maybe it is contrived to avoid the tree over there but I do it on thin holds and firmly believe it is only 5.11; The hardest part of sending this route is reading the line. As far as loose stuff- if you stay away from the right corner below the 1st roof you'll be fine.
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon
By: markguycan When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: rattlers are out, saw two last week. be careful!
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Photo
By: markguycan When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ok, now I see the reason for the fixed line! Also it makes a nice belay anchor for Indecent Exposure.
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Location: OR : Mt. Jefferson : Center Ridge (Easy 5th Mod. Snow)
By: markguycan When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tierra Infirma-
aesthetic peak, arduous suffering!
2pm start-approached via Pamelia Lk trail head (elev.3,000ft) to Milk Creek to PCT (head south) about a mile to the first major gully. followed poor climbers trail up steep to approx 5,600ft -camped still in trees with about 50% snow coverage at this point. 6am start- low temps only to the 40's caused loose snow conditions- post-holing and kick stepping interspersed with loose scree stumbling. As I live at 7,000ft I expected to find this climb e... more >>
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Goode : North Buttress (5.9)
By: markguycan When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: did a version in 1996 w/ Lane Taglio. missed the 4th class approach pitch and went straight up a dihedral from a pretty good bergschrund (below start of traverse)-this was the crux pitch. Had lunch on a sweet ledge in the sun above the (not too) ugly chimney. then on pitch 6 we climbed a nice hand crack hidden behind a huge flake, this took us to a final short blocky pitch and the summit. I remember sleeping the night before at Saddlebag lake and the mosquitos were horrible!
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Location: AZ : Grand Canyon National Park : Brady Peak (5.6) : Photo
By: markguycan When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: wish it were bigger!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Super Crack Tower : Turkish Bride (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: markguycan When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: the diagonal finger crack heading up from the roof is Dancing with the Other Woman---AWESOME!!!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Lower Mt Wilson Wall : OST (overly stimulated tain... (5.11a/b)
By: markguycan When: Mar 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: BNB is what I like to call the line further to the right; Hang a directional from the anchors to get there. It is a difficult 11+ or 5.12 incipient crack/seam thru a bulging roof. It would require several bolts to lead.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Super Crack Tower : Tofurkey (5.9)
By: markguycan When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, you beat me by a week! I lead it yeterday not realizing it'd been done till I saw a bit of chalk and shoe scuff. I agree 5.9, maybe 9+ ...or I'm just out of shape...Turkish Delight sure made me feel like it this time!
While the initial rock quality is not great the top half the route is stellar desert varnished sandstone. I used nuts and cams to a #3camalot.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Christianity Spire : Blast from the Past (Isaac'... (5.10)
By: markguycan When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks Kole, we continued on up missing the bolts onto some run out face, decided that WASNOT the way to go and doun climbed to find the anchors.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Super Crack Tower : Walk the Plank (5.3 PG13) : Photo
By: markguycan When: Jan 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This little piggy went WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE WEEEEEEEEEEEEEE all the way home!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Super Crack Tower : Photo
By: markguycan When: Jan 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: crawl thru here to the south side to do "A Marriage Reality"
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Christianity Spire : Blast from the Past (Isaac'... (5.10)
By: markguycan When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: possible, even recommended to climb and rap from the top of the first pitch; do subsequent pitches only if you want to bag the killer summit.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Super Crack Tower : Hotdog in a Hallway (5.8+ PG13) : Photo
By: markguycan When: Dec 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: sounds kinda dirty and loose!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Super Crack Tower : Shotgun Wedding (5.11) : Photo
By: markguycan When: Dec 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: sweet pic Manny! I like that you can see the window above the "dirty hotdog chimney" thanks--M
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : Photo
By: markguycan When: Nov 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 4Flying Apaches (Scenic Cruise) takes the coconino sandstone skyline or the right.
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