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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : ... : Justice of the Peace (5.11+)
By: markguycan When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: this looks awesome!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : ... : Thumbs Up (5.12)
By: markguycan When: Feb 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somebody should link the top of GPH with ThumbsUp. This would require about 20ft of FA climbing with probably only a short crux of 11+ fingers to thin hands.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : ... : DPH (5.10+)
By: markguycan When: Feb 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somebody should link the top of GPH with ThumbsUp. This would require about 20ft for FA climbing with probably only a short crux of 11+ fingers to thin hands.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Photo
By: markguycan When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: congratz Dave! It looks sweet! I think I remember you telling me about this a couple of years ago.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: markguycan When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah Scott- time to get back to it!! we replaced the anchors last year- it's good to go!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Photo
By: markguycan When: Nov 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I seriously doubt rockfall would cause both hangers to be so perfectly flattened. I suspect a crack climbing purist has enforced his ethics on everyone. It's unfortunate since this testpiece will be harder to back off from if it can not be finished for reason.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Damfino Canyon : Damfino Spire (5.11- PG13)
By: markguycan When: Oct 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the "bad" bandito bolts are actually pretty good. the rusty button-heads up higher need to be replaced though. On the bright side- you can now skip those upper anchors and rap down on bomber 1/2" x 5"bolts from the summit -down Damfidont. PindrycMilan- the name is the same as the FS sign that used to mark the trail before someone decided to take it home.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : Middle Section : Into the Maelstrom (5.12- PG13)
By: markguycan When: Oct 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: looks pretty sweet Scott!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : John Doe Wall : Jane Doe (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: markguycan When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: looks like you could push a couple variations up higher. the arching crack above the roof looks pretty sweet!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : West Clear Creek : John Doe Wall : Jane Doe (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: markguycan When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: do you use that flared finger and hand crack to your right?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Wanting a Hula Hoop, Hammer... (5.9 V2)
By: markguycan When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: @Steve- yeah we should have listed before we went out- we forgot all three items on the FA!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Photo
By: markguycan When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super dog pinnacle in the distance.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Dangling Monkey (5.12-)
By: markguycan When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: first pitch is pretty sandbag for 10- Actually more like 11- but good! I used a full set of dbls to #2 camalot plus 1 #3. Scoped out the upper pitch for next time: looks like dbl #4 and a #5 would be useful. I'll be back!!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Unknown (5.10c)
By: markguycan When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard this is route was named Winnebago.
The second pitch is pretty exciting but I'd give it 10.c & PG13 at most.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Trundlers Club (5.11-)
By: markguycan When: Nov 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, approach is too sketchy to bring the pooch. I'd recommend bringing dbls to #4 and don't forget to eat your Wheaties!!Rap #1 is almost 100ft- watch your tails as you swing in to grab the anchor!! Rap #2 is short down and right. Rap #3 follows a sweet hand crack which has already eaten at least one rope (almost got ours). From Rap #4 we TR'd the first pitch of PMT- intriguing & hard face climbing with safe but spaced bolts: this would make this a very exc... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Footprints in the Sand (5.10c)
By: markguycan When: Nov 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: looks like the lower 2/3rds of this line is what I used to call "Ten Roof Rusted" - a diagonal toprope climb left of Indecent Exposure. Thanks Manny for making this a lead climb.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Indecent Exposure (5.11b/c)
By: markguycan When: Nov 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: as for the rating- I've been told it's harder than either No White Flag or Submission. That said I believe it is at most 11c. It is more technical but less pumpy than either of the afore mentioned routes.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Indecent Exposure (5.11b/c)
By: markguycan When: Nov 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: on the bright side, if you do blow the third clip you are already way out over exposed air. If you've thought to anchor your belayer in you surely will not hit any(thing/one).
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : South Buttress (5.8)
By: markguycan When: Sep 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leisurely start- left camp after 9am. Climbed it as 4 pitches: linked first two- minimal pro placed to diminish drag, then short corner to traverse- easy with great views, then the long dihedral pitch -felt the most difficult, then finished on the "Best 5.6 Ever" left of the K Crack, also did and enjoyed the K Crack but IMHO the 5.6 was more memorable. Late lunch on top, napping in the meadow by mid afternoon. 1 70M easily gets you off, a 60M would work with 2 short easy downclimbs. Rack... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Pumphouse Wash : The Ultimates/Mexican Pocke... : Teddy Bear's Picnic (5.9)
By: markguycan When: Jun 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: no Rusty-
The canyon winds around quite a bit and this section is either sunny (mostly south facing) or shady and (mostly north facing)so exact directions aside lets put it in context of flow. As water moves down canyon; river right holds routes like WW and UFC. UOW, UD and TBP are on canyon left.
I'm not sure what it was you did, but am glad it worked out for ya!
I'll have to look for it next time I'm own there. -M
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Skyline (5.10+)
By: markguycan When: May 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: google map image
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Photo
By: markguycan When: May 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I traversed into the crack after the 3rd bolt then climbed up the crack, reached left and clipped the last bolt before leading up the crack which is pretty sustained in the 1/4" size so would recommend several blue TCU's or similar sized nuts.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall
By: markguycan When: Apr 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: copy of MP topos/descriptions left at the base of Lord Humongous for everyone to use.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Flight of the Anasazi (5.11+)
By: markguycan When: Apr 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led the second pitch; Xciting!!! but much easier than the first.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Happy Ending (5.7+)
By: markguycan When: Apr 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2 bolts were left hangerless as the rock is so soft the the bolts would not tighten. Epoxy was added to try to remedy this. The bolts are 6in x 1/2in monsters so with a small nut noosed around them they should be plenty safe. The climbing is not particularly difficult at these points. While I am a bit over 6'2" I have had 5'0" partners successfully negotiated the crux without much difficulty.
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