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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Tips City (5.10a) : Photo
By: MarkEMark When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ... at least I think this is Tips City. I'm not familiar with the area and this may not be a picture of this route. Anyone know for sure?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Red Rock Wall : Reasoning With The Unreason... (5.11a)
By: MarkEMark When: Jul 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I pulled off a pretty hefty sized rock on this today. Nearly took out my belay. It was pretty scary to say the least.
I would suggest all climbers wear a helmet in this area due to a little loose rock, and the occasional brief case stones. Great Route for sure!!! But tread lightly.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Black and White John and Ma... (5.10c)
By: MarkEMark When: Jul 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Ruckman book has the top of this route traversing left and sharing the same chains as Hal-A-Finger. There are another set of chains if you continue directly op some scary flakes. I was wondering if anyone knew which is the "true" top of this climb?
I tried to reach the upper chains, but it was a bit intimidating, so I followed the Ruckman route to Half-A-Finger. The direct option seemed a bit harder and a little runout...
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Location: john gilchrist : question photos : Photo
By: MarkEMark When: Jul 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is the Houndstooth. There are 2 main routes on it. The rock is pretty bad. The best approach is up Deaf Smith Canyon. Did I mention that the rock quality is really bad? Yeah...
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Oracle (5.11a)
By: MarkEMark When: Jun 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I personally felt like this was harder than the grade. The cruxy start felt more like 11c or d. I also felt like the climb to the left of this one was harder than it's grade. (Aftershock, 10c)
Although this could be because I'm only 5'6", but the people I was with also felt they were both a bit hard.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Nosferatu (5.10b)
By: MarkEMark When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short, pumpy, and fun is a great description. There are a few loose holds as you head up the roofs, so pull carefully. But with some traffic, this should clean up a bit. Good addition to the area for sure.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Western Grebe (5.8 R)
By: MarkEMark When: Oct 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be rappelled with one 70m rope, barely. Rapping the 3rd pitch brings you to a bush with a couple of super suspect pieces of webbing about 30ft above the anchors of the 2nd pitch. (no rap rings) I left a nut, a sling, and a 'biner to back it up. This may be an option, but I think adding a more secure rap station would be nice.
On a lighter note, I think this is some of the best slab of it's grade in the canyon! Due to the lack of use, it is in need of some ex foliation, but is sti... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area
By: MarkEMark When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left of the 3 chains at he top of the "2nd" pitch is VERY loose. The nut that holds the chain on seems to be hand tightened. I suggest to use the piton and the two chains to the right for your anchors.
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