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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Dehumanized (5.11)
By: Mark SLC When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route. Great moves, great gear and longer than most in Ferguson. Thanks for putting it up. Single rack to #2 camalot. But does anyone have beta on where to go on the topout? After clipping the last bolt before the chains, heading straight up above we found sandy slopers with no feet - stout for 5.11. Seemed like going right would have put us on drunk punk oi and going left using the rail would share the 10a sport finish...
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran : South Buttress Right, Mt. M... (5.11)
By: Mark SLC When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rock quality and exposure is outstanding, as is the more remote feel and canoe in.
Crux pitch has lots of fixed pins that seemed solid. Straightforward french free for our party w/ smaller c3s or equivalent.
Agree w/ earlier post. Tough slab moves with old bolts.
As for descent, no bolted rap stations (that we found). In fact one was backed up with a yellow c3. Save some daylight for descent and watch your ends (obviously a good idea anyway to get early start for decent temps for last 5... more >>
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Location: WA : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Liberty Crack (5.11- C2)
By: Mark SLC When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First (pitch) on 4th class a little spicy in tennies. Seems obvious in hindsight but scrambling up in climbing shoes probably better. Set up belay below pitch 2.
Also, the 5.10 and 11 sections can be french freed for a long 5.9.
We did the crux aid move w/o a hook. Not needed. But definitely do bring the offsets and micros.
Great (and popular) route, get there early.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Mark SLC When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Incredible route. Top it out! Pitch 4 is not to be missed - (though my belayer told me after that the block on the left was loose it felt solid when pulled down on). Good anchors. We brought trips in #2 & #3 camalot, plenty of stopper options, should have left the 4 at home.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Our Father (5.10 R)
By: Mark SLC When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree w/ the comment about pitch 2. 2 old(er) bolts protect the crux slab moves, then head up and right, and it's not hard but a bit balancy w/ no pro. If you have a small tcu (purple c3 maybe? - I didn't have) you might fashion a placement on the ledge you're standing on/by. I had only blue metolius and up so I had to pull the rail and slot a yellow or orange (can't remember) metolious in a horizontal. Pro is bomber from then on up the flake. And pitch 3 is worth it. So sweet.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: Mark SLC When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet climb. Tips to OW all in one pitch on amazing rock.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10a)
By: Mark SLC When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For me also the crux was just after the traverse. Climbing was so fun I got to the end of the 60 and had to downclimb a bit on the face to backclean for a hanging belay (we brought doubles). Never found anchors. 2nd pitch was shorter through the chimney up and right to Our Father anchors. Save some gear or bring trips in hands and set up a belay on pitch 1 when you find a good stance. Great climb, easy pro.
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Location: International : Thailand : Laoliang Island
By: Mark SLC When: Dec 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seemed to us like the best kept secret in Thailand. No crowds (and unpolished holds - at least for now...it's advised you keep the chalking up to a minimum), large variety of first rate routes, great food, amazing kayaking/etc. Do yourself a favor and build some time into the itinerary for Tonsi and make the trip...you'll be glad you did
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Location: International : Thailand : Laoliang Island : Golden (5.10d)
By: Mark SLC When: Dec 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: touted as best 6c in thailand. I have to agree. do this climb.
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Location: International : Thailand : Laoliang Island : Bangkok Coconut Mafia (5.10d)
By: Mark SLC When: Dec 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome jug haul. pretty sustained, but the holds are always there when you need 'em. crux for me was pulling the roof - avoid going right here and stay left/center under the bolt
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Triple Overhangs (5.10a)
By: Mark SLC When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route. Initial pitches are decent, but crux pitch is stellar and worth the hike. Ended up moving too high on the 2nd pitch hand crack into vertical smile - wasn't sure when to cut left into chimney. Agree w/ the 9+ comment about LCC. Felt easier than crux on Gordon's Hangover, and pro is all there. We brought and used a #4, doubles of everything else - but agree that a 3rd #2 would have been more useful instead.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Pfeifferhorn : North Ridge (5.4 Easy Snow)
By: Mark SLC When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed. Traverse on lower ridge w/ old fixed line clipped to old questionable pitons if I remember right. March '08. Awesome route when done together though - plan on full day
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