Mountain Project : Mark Hammond


Contributed Comments
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : The Moratorium (5.11b) By: Mark Hammond When: Nov 19, 2007	view comment >>
Comments: Excellent but desperate with the algae/seaweed in the crux tips section. Felt harder than other 5.11's on this trip such as the Rostrum. My experience linking the final 2 pitches would lead me to break them up next time.
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Texas Two-Step (5.10+ R) By: Mark Hammond When: Nov 15, 2007	view comment >>
Comments: Good work Steve and Greg. Really nice climbing. I guess I shouldn't have waited 3 years to get back to lead this, although it would have been a headpoint for me, the onsight is prouder. I was going to call it El Nino and blame the delay on parenthood. FYI, I gardened a bunch of mud out of the perfect cam (green Alien, I recall) placement right after the crux. It felt 11a to me, but I'm not too strong. Steve, let's get out and do some book research, I have another line to show you. Mark
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Isis Buttress : Ramses (5.10c) By: Mark Hammond When: Sep 4, 2007	view comment >>
Comments: Just a different take on the protection and rope drag issues described above, YMMV. I did not place any micronuts, used only about 2 sets of small cams and 14 slings (3 double shoulder and the rest shoulder length, no quickdraws). I did backclean a couple pieces to reduce rope drag. I felt the route was basically "sewn up" with this amount of gear. I carried a single set of Camalots of the green, red, gold sizes. I did use most of my mid to larger nuts. I climbed on a single line and had very li... more >>
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Crack of Fear (5.10d) By: Mark Hammond When: Aug 20, 2007	view comment >>
Comments: I placed a #4 Bigbro on the 2nd and 3rd pitches, it was nice to have. Not sure if a #3 would work. Also, the new #6 Camalot was soooopa! Seemed like a better size for this than the old #5. I had 1 of each. I agree with the 5.10d rating. You have to want it, but it is not technically that difficult. Mark PS- I vote for removing the old bolts. Or at least the 1st one on the crux pitch with that old ?? hanger. It appears ready to slice a falling climber to ribbons as you sli... more >>
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Zot Face (5.8+) By: Mark Hammond When: Mar 31, 2004	view comment >>
Comments: Edward.5.11+ trad? Never knocked a rock off?? Can't just take gym climbing to Eldo??? Wow Edward, what ARE you talking about?
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Zot Face (5.8+) By: Mark Hammond When: Mar 31, 2004	view comment >>
Comments: You're right Russell, my comment wasn't fully informed. I made an assumption and we all know what can happen when we head down that path.I based that guess on the fact that you posted the day of the rocks falling off the face, with no other posts about the route for a year and a half and no other posts about loose rock. Look at your original post. I think you might see why I might have thought that it sounded like you were speaking from experience, rather that in a theoretical way, about flakes ... more >>
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Zot Face (5.8+) By: Mark Hammond When: Mar 23, 2004	view comment >>
Comments: Hey Russell, Nice of you to warn people to wear helmets, but how about not prying flakes off the wall and trying to kill us all! My helmet wouldn't have done much to slow down the rock you (or your partner?) sent down at us. Climb under control and within your abilities? Learn to recognize loose rock and don't protect behind it?
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9) By: Mark Hammond When: Aug 1, 2003	view comment >>
Comments: Hey Myke, Sorry to disuade you from doing the route unnecessarily. Also glad the blocks are stable enough to kick. When I was up there, they did slide, not just wobble (and without kicking or stepping on). I thought it was worth being adamant about, since it seemed pretty dangerous. My two partners thought so too, so I posted.Anyone who climbs in Eldo knows there is loose rock everywhere, "just don't pull on it" usually suffices. This situation seemed different; at the time, to me.Grea... more >>
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Obelisk (5.11a) By: Mark Hammond When: Jul 20, 2003	view comment >>
Comments: Brad, noticed your comment says 3-#4 Camalots. Glad you gave me the right beta instead. #4.5s fit perfectly, I think #4s would be worthless, no?
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Heavy Weather (5.9) By: Mark Hammond When: Jun 5, 2003	view comment >>
Comments: WARNING, DEATH BLOCKS/FLAKES! At pitch3/pitch 4 belay, the rock is highly unstable. Please do not do this route right now. Yesterday, a flake big enough to kill a couple climbers shifted twice while we were near it, VERY SCARY.This should be trundled with the area cordoned off. The big snows of this spring must have moved stuff around. I have done the route several times in the past and it has changed. Right now it (and the blocks around it) are just waiting for someone to breathe on it. Strongl... more >>
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... By: Mark Hammond When: Dec 23, 2002	view comment >>
Comments: Climbed here today. RD is fat and easy. Lots of pick holes and steps for feet. For a challenge, climb it with no tools. Fang is skinny but connected. It's probably still a bit stupid to lead but fun to TR. Not much on the mixed walls. 7th Tentacle is doable but has a sporty start, Teriebel Traverse is dry as are Amphibian, Fatman & Robin, etc. Some new totally dry lines on the 7th Tentacle/Little Thang wall. Spiral Starcase is broken. Have to dry tool up 20' to get to the ice.
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Umph Slot (5.10) By: Mark Hammond When: Oct 13, 2002	view comment >>
Comments: The 150ft length is a Very Rough estimate. If you try to do it in one pitch and come up short......you have been warned.