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Member Since: Jan 4, 2008
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Mark Roth


Point Rank: # 18
Total Points: 12,095
Last Year: 408
Last 30 Days: 25
212 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Roth been climbing?










Contributions


All 4396 | Routes 179 | Areas 55 | Photos 1853 | Page Improvements | Comments 215 | Posts 441 | Stars 1563 | Ratings 90
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : No Solution (5.12a)
By: Mark Roth When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: Good job leading it. But I think there might be a mistake with your gear beta as there is no Blue C3?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Freight Train Boulder
By: Mark Roth When: May 11, 2011

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Comments: I seriously doubt there will be much increase in traffic here because of Mt. Project. It's not like this is a secret boulder. If people follow the directions I posted, impact to the area will be far less than what is occurring now (people aimlessly trampling across that meadow).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part F - The P...
By: Mark Roth When: May 10, 2011

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Comments: Almost as easy to approach from the Regarden Wall trail. More elevation gain, but maybe a little shorter distance.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: May 5, 2011

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Comments: FIREs (fee-ray) were the first sticky rubber shoe. They revolutionized free climbing in the '80s....


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Topographical Oceans (5.10b) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: May 3, 2011

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Comments: Looks like the first pitch of Bishop's Move....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: There is No bolt. You probably see one of the bolts from this route... C'est What?


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : The Whale (V3)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: The book lists this as V3. That's why I posted it as V2-3.... Not hard, but was hard enough for me. I'd imagine people who boulder a ton would say it's like arguing about the difference between 5.2 and 5.3.... Too easy for them to care. I thought it was a fun problem though.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 26, 2011

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Comments: You can't get far enough away to make this look good. But it kinda looks "easy" from this angle....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 22, 2011

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Comments: "If done as 3 pitches", belay @ the tree ledge, and not the pod over the roof....
No reason to break up the money pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Heddie La Rue (5.10- PG13)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 20, 2011

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Comments: Fun, but way harder than it looks! It's hard to smear on lichen I guess....

Oh yeah, save a #3 for the top out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 12, 2011

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Comments: Cool angle... (and by cool I mean I was FREEZING down there, finish the pitch!).


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : The Dog (5.7)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: You can reach up and place a green (0.75) Camalot above the crux on P2 before committing.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: The rappel bolts are both very loose....
You can back them up with a long sling on a flake until they can be replaced.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: The bolt anchor with chains for the rappel is in bad shape.... Both bolts move a lot in their holes. Someone should check these out... (I'm willing to help replace, but have no such experience). Anyone rapping off of these should probably back them up. There is a flake just to the left that would take a long sling....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall : Southpaw (5.9+)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 8, 2011

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Comments: 10 bolts and 4 cruxes...
1st steep face at bottom
2nd pulling off the ledge @ 4th bolt
3rd clipping 5th bolt (awkward!)
4th physical crux, pulling over overhang @ 8th bolt (these moves alone make the route worth while!)

Sounds like Dave Clark 5.10 may have missed the moves out left... if you stay to the right rather than pull over the overhang, you will miss two bolts and be on crappy rock....

No supplemental gear needed. Just draws....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall : Make It So (5.11 PG13)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 8, 2011

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Comments: Pulling the move at the first bolt is harder than 9 but not too much harder... then there is another 9 move by the 2nd bolt. After that, no move is harder than 5.7 (if you go the right way).


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Bunny (5.6)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 7, 2011

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Comments: I followed this route once in the early 80's on Easter sunday. All of the ledges had little piles of jelly beans. Very fun.

Another time I brought up a friend that was new to climbing. He froze up and refused to move up or down for a long long time. We had to finish in the dark when he finally decided to continue climbing...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Grease Gun Groove (5.6)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 7, 2011

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Comments: There is a fun 5.11 variation a few feet right of the start. Might as well top rope it while you are here... Really just a tall boulder problem, and being tall is also helpful.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Breashear's Crack II (V3) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 2, 2011

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Comments: About 20 feet, but the crux is in the middle....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 31, 2011

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Comments: There is a nice RP and or #1 Ballnut placement in that corner on the left. It protects the opening move nicely.... But then back-clean it after you clip the bolt, since you will want both pieces again....


Location: Dave Cummings : me on my redpoint : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 26, 2011

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Comments: What climb?

Swedin-Ringle


Location: International : Europe : Slovenia : Bled : Bohinjska Bela : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 26, 2011

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Comments: This water fall isn't right by this crag... it is at the western end of the lake in Bohinj.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Waiting Room (5.8+ PG13)
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 26, 2011

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Comments: It's nice to have a #3 or #4 for the belay. There is a nice crack on the left wall, and the rest of the ledge is a shattered mess. A #2 or a large hex might fit as well... Just save something large for the belay.

Also:
In case you are not up for the Northumberland Crack finish, it is possible to escape to the left at the top of this route. Maybe all the way to the walkoff but at least over to the Hot Spur.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: This is the Hot Spur finish (5.6).

Probably better than the regular finish, which starts around the right side of the tree.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Off the List (aka Genuine R... (5.10c)
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 23, 2011

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Comments: According to Levin's new book, this is: Genuine Risk 5.11a, R.
FA: Erickson, Garber, 1980.


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