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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall : Make It So (5.11 PG13)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pulling the move at the first bolt is harder than 9 but not too much harder... then there is another 9 move by the 2nd bolt. After that, no move is harder than 5.7 (if you go the right way).
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Bunny (5.6)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I followed this route once in the early 80's on Easter sunday. All of the ledges had little piles of jelly beans. Very fun.
Another time I brought up a friend that was new to climbing. He froze up and refused to move up or down for a long long time. We had to finish in the dark when he finally decided to continue climbing...
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Grease Gun Groove (5.6)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a fun 5.11 variation a few feet right of the start. Might as well top rope it while you are here... Really just a tall boulder problem, and being tall is also helpful.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : The Dark Side : Breashear's Crack II (V3) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: About 20 feet, but the crux is in the middle....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a nice RP and or #1 Ballnut placement in that corner on the left. It protects the opening move nicely.... But then back-clean it after you clip the bolt, since you will want both pieces again....
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Location: Dave Cummings : me on my redpoint : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: What climb?
Swedin-Ringle
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Location: International : Europe : Slovenia : Bled : Bohinjska Bela : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This water fall isn't right by this crag... it is at the western end of the lake in Bohinj.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Waiting Room (5.8+ PG13)
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's nice to have a #3 or #4 for the belay. There is a nice crack on the left wall, and the rest of the ledge is a shattered mess. A #2 or a large hex might fit as well... Just save something large for the belay.
Also:
In case you are not up for the Northumberland Crack finish, it is possible to escape to the left at the top of this route. Maybe all the way to the walkoff but at least over to the Hot Spur.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the Hot Spur finish (5.6).
Probably better than the regular finish, which starts around the right side of the tree.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Off the List (aka Genuine R... (5.10c)
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to Levin's new book, this is: Genuine Risk 5.11a, R.
FA: Erickson, Garber, 1980.
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Location: JSH : Julie's pics : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not for sale anymore?
That is Splashtic... right?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Airborne Froth (5.11 PG13)
By: Mark Roth When: Feb 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Monty, this is listed in my '88 Hubbel book....
FA: Steve "Norman" Dieckoff, Noel Childs, Strappo Hughes, and Jerry Rock, 6/88.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Feb 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah Mike,
We didn't find it on the way out the day we saw you. We all hiked out together and thought we were on it, but ended up back on the other one....
But I came up it next time. It was steep as hell! But, maybe better. I didn't see any ruts or wash outs. And it is more on the crest of a ridge, so it will dry faster after snow and be less prone to erosion.
So I guess my vote is yes, it's better.
Plus you get this view....
Let me know when it's time to volunteer for trail work.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Ellingwood Chimney (5.8) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Feb 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My old book showed 4 bolts on the topo. So we were a little surprised by that one sad little bolt hanging out of the rock. Very safe with a big enough cam though....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : The Meat Cleaver (5.10+)
By: Mark Roth When: Feb 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Monty....
Thanks Jason,
I figured you must have been up it as research, and we almost asked you about it but didn't want to ruin the surprise.... I slipped a few times on that ramp up to the roof, scary stuff. I only say it is 5.10 since the Umph Slot is only 5.8 right? A Valley Giant certainly isn't required, but it got placed. That thing was like a hot potato, no one wanted to carry it.
I'll do the right variation on the 3rd pitch "Next Time", ha ha ha. But seriously, this might... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Trad Lands : Tootsie Roll (5.8)
By: Mark Roth When: Feb 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice easy lead, not even polished like others of the grade here. Beginners should bring some gear though. Not many bolts....
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Location: -sp : sp115 : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Jan 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's ME
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Green Thumb : Bazooka (A3 R)
By: Mark Roth When: Jan 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is aid climbing with a hammer legal in the Flatirons??
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Table Top Area : Risky One (aka Best Route E... (5.10a)
By: Mark Roth When: Dec 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Stem across dirt and pigeon shit..." Welcome to Table.
Best Route Ever = sarcasm and maybe a better name than unknown? Sorry to lead you astray.... Not one of the better routes here, but I did enjoy it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Dec 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can't be too careful!
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : North Quarry / Pinnacle Are... : Hardly Huge Hanger Holes Hi... (5.10c)
By: Mark Roth When: Dec 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty nice hangers for being home made, beveled edges and not even rusty. I think I liked these better than the old gold shuts on the other routes....
The rock is mostly solid and there are really good moves. Much more fun than it looks.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hang Ten (5.8-)
By: Mark Roth When: Dec 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It would be very easy to set up a top rope on this one, and a good route for beginners to practice hand jamming....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Leg of Ilg (5.8-)
By: Mark Roth When: Dec 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Might as well climb this on the way to Earnest Stemmingway.... Can't climb the CLASSICs everyday.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Nov 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: They were good shoes, but the funkiest smelling shoes I've EVER owned!
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : The Bowels (5.8-) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Nov 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Figured a "butt shot" would be OK for this climb.
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