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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab
By: Mark Roth When: Jun 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know if Della-Terra minds if you walk up their driveway? This would be the best approach if it's allowed, since the well marked trail starts on the hill right behind/above the lodge. If you want to avoid their property, hike up the gully to the East, but make sure to traverse left to meet the good trail. We tried to follow the gully all the way up and wound up bush-whacking. At least we found the trail on the way down....
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Mark Roth When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, a 70 reaches for the first 2 pitches. Make sure to go around the right side of the tree so your rope doesn't "bother" it... Such a great beginner's route. Varied climbing with slab and crack moves on great rock with great protection.
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Location: CA : High Desert : Tehachapi
By: Mark Roth When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful of the lower angle routes. The jugs on these seem to collect broken glass. After cutting my finger on the first hold I touched, we decided to do the steeper routes on the left...
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Spy : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Jun 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's only about 5.4 to downclimb instead of "jump", but I guess that wouldn't be as fun.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Monkey Shine (5.10d)
By: Mark Roth When: Jun 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new book calls this 5.9! It was hard, dirty, and not the casual warmup I was looking for. I thought Face Full of Bush was way easier than this....
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Monkey Pause (5.12a)
By: Mark Roth When: Jun 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is NOT a variation to Monkey Shine. Rather Monkey Puzzle is a variation to this....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part F - The P... : Poor Man's Wendego (5.9 R)
By: Mark Roth When: May 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony, sorry if I lured you onto this by posting it.... Yeah, not the greatest route. If there was a flat ground landing, the route could be soloed as an easy boulder problem. Not a great idea with that jagged talus and the insecure lichen smearing....
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: May 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting on and off THIS tyrol was SOOO hard!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Convenience Cliff : Self Serve (5.10d)
By: Mark Roth When: May 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually 3 routes right of Corner Market. Fun climbing with one hard move by the last bolt....
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Pebbles (5.7) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: May 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just take a few steps back from the computer.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : No Solution (5.12a)
By: Mark Roth When: May 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good job leading it. But I think there might be a mistake with your gear beta as there is no Blue C3?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Freight Train Boulder
By: Mark Roth When: May 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I seriously doubt there will be much increase in traffic here because of Mt. Project. It's not like this is a secret boulder. If people follow the directions I posted, impact to the area will be far less than what is occurring now (people aimlessly trampling across that meadow).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part F - The P...
By: Mark Roth When: May 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Almost as easy to approach from the Regarden Wall trail. More elevation gain, but maybe a little shorter distance.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: May 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: FIREs (fee-ray) were the first sticky rubber shoe. They revolutionized free climbing in the '80s....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Topographical Oceans (5.10b) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: May 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like the first pitch of Bishop's Move....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Jack The Ripper (5.9+ X)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is No bolt. You probably see one of the bolts from this route... C'est What?
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : The Whale (V3)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The book lists this as V3. That's why I posted it as V2-3.... Not hard, but was hard enough for me. I'd imagine people who boulder a ton would say it's like arguing about the difference between 5.2 and 5.3.... Too easy for them to care. I thought it was a fun problem though.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can't get far enough away to make this look good. But it kinda looks "easy" from this angle....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "If done as 3 pitches", belay @ the tree ledge, and not the pod over the roof....
No reason to break up the money pitch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Heddie La Rue (5.10- PG13)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, but way harder than it looks! It's hard to smear on lichen I guess....
Oh yeah, save a #3 for the top out.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool angle... (and by cool I mean I was FREEZING down there, finish the pitch!).
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : The Dog (5.7)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can reach up and place a green (0.75) Camalot above the crux on P2 before committing.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rappel bolts are both very loose....
You can back them up with a long sling on a flake until they can be replaced.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt anchor with chains for the rappel is in bad shape.... Both bolts move a lot in their holes. Someone should check these out... (I'm willing to help replace, but have no such experience). Anyone rapping off of these should probably back them up. There is a flake just to the left that would take a long sling....
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rebel Wall : Southpaw (5.9+)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10 bolts and 4 cruxes...
1st steep face at bottom
2nd pulling off the ledge @ 4th bolt
3rd clipping 5th bolt (awkward!)
4th physical crux, pulling over overhang @ 8th bolt (these moves alone make the route worth while!)
Sounds like Dave Clark 5.10 may have missed the moves out left... if you stay to the right rather than pull over the overhang, you will miss two bolts and be on crappy rock....
No supplemental gear needed. Just draws....
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