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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mindless Cliff
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the routes here were fun but very short. The approach is one of the worst I have seen in Boulder Canyon. Very loose. Don't park right under the crag or you might crush your car!
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Submitted By: Mark Roth on Apr 29, 2013
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mindless Cliff : Aqua Regia (5.11-)
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb... thin and sustained on good rock. It is slightly contrived, since you could stem, but it has very fun moves if you don't....
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Location: International : Europe : Poland : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jacek
I heard that you nearly decked from the top of this wall. True story? Sounds like a good one...
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Lost in Space (5.9) : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This anchor is on the rap route, not the route itself....
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Glenwood Canyon Ice : Leftmost Corner at Hidden F... (WI5+ M5+) : Comment : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not just an American death triangle, it's actually coffin-shaped!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : Lincoln Lake Slabs
By: Mark Roth When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Isn't this the same as Lincoln Lake Slabs ?
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Mohare Eclaire (5.11c)
By: Mark Roth When: Jan 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is at the 5th bolt. It's by far the hardest move on the route. Then a good clipping hold and another pretty hard (while pumped) move....
Did anyone leave a draw on the last bolt? I have it. Describe and I'll return it to you....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Mount Sanitas : Hawthorn Block
By: Mark Roth When: Jan 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun boulder! If I lived in North Boulder, I'd climb here a bunch....
Besides the listed problems, there are tons of possible variations. There are so many interesting holds you could do most of the problems a few different ways (the easiest possible ways were hard enough for me). A nice easy right to left lip traverse is a good V0 warm-up.
I'm surprised this boulder hasn't seen more attention. It's sunny, scenic, and close to town with flat landings and mostly solid rock.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead
By: Mark Roth When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No reason not to solo this. But if you're too chicken, like me to down-climb Yodeling Moves, the anchor has a fat new piece of cord to rap from as of 10-31-12....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Freezer Burn (5.10a)
By: Mark Roth When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great to do as 1 pitch. There is still enough rope to lower back to the 2nd anchor and a great stance. One rappel from here to the ground....
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Expect No Mercy (5.10b)
By: Mark Roth When: Oct 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #3, 2, and 1 is perfect advise.
Although you don't need the crack, I was glad to get a jam. But I'd recommend a little tape on the right hand... My skin got no mercy.
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Zinger (5.8)
By: Mark Roth When: Oct 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way better than the snack cake! You couldn't find holds this good in a gym!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock : Miki's Six (5.6)
By: Mark Roth When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.5 at most. If you don't use the tree, the log, or a shoulder stand to get off the ground it's more like hard 5.11.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Ottoman Empire (5.12)
By: Mark Roth When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. I'd give it another star if it wasn't so short. One tough move getting past the 2nd bolt then fun 5.10- climbing to the anchor....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Loveseat (5.11d)
By: Mark Roth When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "You do not need to touch the guano."
I didn't touch it, but it was less than an inch from my face!
A little dirty but packs a lot of fun for such a short route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Lazy Squaw Spire
By: Mark Roth When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The comments about tickets got me paranoid about parking, even in the obvious pullouts near the ranch.
The mouth of the Aspen Meadow Campground has plenty of parking.
If you follow the well marked and well described approach for The Grendel, you can hang a left a little before reaching The Grendel and sneak up on the back of the spire. That way you have legal parking and are on a good trail for most of the approach.
The bolts on this were not as modern as I had hoped. Especially the... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not Rewritten that way....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag
By: Mark Roth When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: DShaw I think this is the route you describe... What's Mine Is Yours
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : 5.11 Crack (5.9+)
By: Mark Roth When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: big puddle of blood under this today... Everyone OK?
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Clam Shell (5.5)
By: Mark Roth When: Aug 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like this has 2 bolts and an anchor now....
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Mark Roth When: Jul 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No fixed anchor, but if you belay where I did, you can close your eyes and throw a hex toward the rock and chances are good you'll have a bomber anchor.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roth When: Jun 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Raps are easy to find. Just make sure to go west on the third one. The Third Flatiron is still closed for raptor nesting, and all of the Flatirons are closed now due to the fire....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Gluten Free (5.10)
By: Mark Roth When: Jun 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Still a little dirty, but super fun. Climbs way harder than it looks. I never saw where the #3 would go? If you can manage the crux, you would be fine without any supplemental gear. I placed a #0.5 Camalot before the anchor and noticed other possible placements as well, but not for the #3....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Northwest Face (5.8)
By: Mark Roth When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The eggs have hatched.... Little ones there now.
Also, if you left some gear and want it back... Found: Booty at 4th Elephant Buttress.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : 1911 Gully (5.5)
By: Mark Roth When: Jun 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jim, Don't forget about the raptor closure....
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