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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Mark Rolofson

Point Rank: # 1,812
Total Points: 354
Last Year: 85
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 290 | Routes 19 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 114 | Posts 2 | Stars 84 | Ratings 61
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Short Sport Route (5.10+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: This is "Short Sport", what else could it be? Really, 5.10+! Wow I never thought the grade in Bob's book was incorrect at 5.11b/c. It is definitely not as hard as Steel Pulse (.11c) on these crags, so maybe I could see calling it .11b or as low as 11a/b. It is harder than Big Tuna (.11a). One thing it is not is 5.10d.
None of my partners questioned the 5.11 rating. Short but sustained for its length. Better than it looks too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Heat Wave (5.9)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Perhaps I am reading too much into your opinion. That said it really caught my attention to see this route rated 5.9 with a bomb for quality rating. First, the route was originally graded .10c. If you had led it with its original gear, I will bet no one would have called it 5.9. I could agree that in its original state you could bomb this route. There was a bail biner on the 3rd bolt when I led it rope solo. I went the easiest way finishing up the rotten arÍte. I thought there were 5.10 moves at... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Ecstasy of the People (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: This is a very odd comment by Taylor Roy. I established the route on March 9, 1995. I redpointed it twice that month. I also cleaned a lot of lichen. It is hard to believe you could spend a hour more, but I guess it is possible. I also don't remember leaving a loose block below the anchor. I am curious now if the block is really loose or just a hollow flake. Perhaps it is too big to want to trundle. As for placing gear, it didn't seem necessary if you can climb this route.
It is interesting that... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Wire (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Bobbi's redpoint was awesome, today, especially after the effort we spent working the route Friday & today. It has been 18 years since I redpointed this route. Chris Alber was the first to send the route on March 8, 1997. For him, the route flowed easily & he called it .12c. In fact, he'd sent it two or three times before I finally redpointed it on March 23, 1997. Hot Wire was my first hard tick after recovering from a shoulder injury. I thought it was .12d. It took me longer to redpoint it than... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Pinche Guey (5.12-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: Definitely the best route on the crag & worth repeating. As for the grade, when I first climbed this route in Fall 2008, it was originally rated .12c. I felt it was overrated & not as hard as "Caught In The Web" or other .12c climbs. However, calling it .12a is a sandbag compared to "Free Fall", "Warf Factor", or "Furious Howard Brown" (all .12a). I have always felt it was solid .12b, if not .12b/c. I've redpointed it at least once a year since 2008 & have yet to do it first try hanging the dr... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Yes, there is actually a comfortable no hands rest in the dihedral. I didn't find it until 2011. I orginally found a very dicey, no hands stem that took enough body tension that I couldn't relax & slow my breathing. So I preferred to rest switching hands using lieback holds with feet on good edges. Basically in the same spot with minor adjustment is a great rest which does make the climb seem a bit easier.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Echo Canyon (aka The Scoop)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: Since July of 2014, many trees were chopped down, thus eliminating most of the blue paint dots & the pink survey tape. Many of the trees were along the trail, but even more were on the hill above & below it. A very significant number of pine trees were chopped down & left in big stacked piles as of August 2014. Is this just fire mitigation or is this the beginning of the Gross Reservoir expansion? It definitely made Chris's blue dots seem rather benign. The Gross Reservoir expansion is something... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Second Coming (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: I find it unfortunate that Tony Bubb from Boulder, Colorado wrote the description for this route & not a local. Tony uses the description to disagree with the quality other climbers have attributed to this fine climb. It is a classic overhung soft rock sport climb. Well worth the drive & repeating. Very well bolted with some small edges & engaging clips around 3rd & 4th bolts. The powerful sidepull / sloper finish makes for a sustained .12a. I don't remember the polish. If it's hot it might fee... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Plan B (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: Plan B has been one of my favorite climbs since it was established in 1994. It is always a super pump with fun moves. Here are the first ascent facts: F.A.: Ken Trout in Feb. 1994. F.F.A.: Henry Lester in April 1994. Finished added (F.A. of entire route) by Mark Rolofson in July 1994. Most people still stop at the first anchor. I find the finish, even though not as hard, rounds out the pump. It climbs the entire 95 ft. face rather than ending it on a slabby section. Ken was using 50 meter ropes ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Grande Finale (5.12d PG13)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: I have climbed at this crag many times over the past 15 years, but today was my first time on this route. Unlike its neighbor "Voila" to the right, "Grand Finale" is not perfectly bolted. It is impressively hard, but I feel it would be a much better route if the 2nd bolt, maybe 3rd bolt & 4th bolt were moved right. Peter is absolutely correct that you are wise to preclip the 3rd bolt. Moving the 2nd bolt right & maybe up as far as you can stretch would protect the hard moves off the ledge. Proba... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Little Crag : Smooth Operator (5.11d X)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: I led this climb twice in 1985. The first ascent & then months later, repeated it with Cindy Peiropan belaying me. There is actually a lot of protection, but most of it is tiny (#2 micro stoppers or RPs). The start is a very short, small right-facing corner with a #5 or #6 micro stopper, that protects the traverse right to the shallow thin seam ascending the steep slab. Marginal #2 RPs protect moves to the end of the seam.

Here is a deep, thin slot where a #2 and/... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : 49 (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: It has now been over 6 years since last visited Maple Canyon & redpointed this route in Oct. 2008. I didn't disagree with its original .12b rating and
that year I redpointed 78 routes between .12a & .13a. The hardest moves on 49 were only .11c but my god what a pump! True endurance climbing. Unlike most .12bs with multiple .12a cruxes or a real .12b crux, this climb is a jug
haul that overhangs 25 ft. in 80 ft. There are 10 protection bolts and the only great rest is on a stance below a final ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: I established this route in December 1993. It is still one of the best first ascents I've done. It don't remember leaving any loose rock on the route. I did pull off a huge, 5 foot block at the base of the climb. I was worried as the block crashed downhill, but it stopped long before the road in talus & boulders. The big concern about trundling here is making sure no one is walking up the hill. Pick a cold weekday, and rap in from above. Look to see if there are no cars in the parking lot. If yo... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Old Man And The Sea Direct (5.12c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: I should probably pull this post. In 2010, when I led the direct finish that leads to the shared anchor with "Deepwater Horizon", it became the crux of "Old Man & The Sea" that originally finished to the anchor on the left for "Nurse Shark". I did this finish without the last bolt. Then the route changed dramatically when a large, sidepull flake left of the 5th bolt was pulled off, changing the section of the climb from 5.11 to 5.12. Personally, I find it this move harder than any move on "De... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Cosmic Thing (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: I don't like to down rate climbs just for sake of flexing my ego. I climbed this route more than twice many years ago. It's a great climb established by two old friends and all time legends. The crux was low on the route. The upper section was overhanging with good holds, not your typical Shelf Road climb. I'd call it .12a and easier than Sundogs at .12a/b.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Mural Wall : Motif (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: This is definitely my favorite route on The Mural Wall. The Mural has some hard climbing, but the bottom part of the route is nothing special. It's approach climbing. Motif is interesting the whole way with the hard start using a mono, a second crux at 4th bolt, and more hard sections to the last bolt. Well worth repeating. Good value for your crag dollar.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Illegal Smile (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: One of the best 5.11 routes at Shelf Road. A good length climb with a few cruxes.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Hot Beach (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: It has been 23 years since I redpointed this route. I do remember getting back on it in the early 2000s. It is a great climb but not as hard or pumpy as "Tits Up". If it's .12b, then "Tits Up is .12c. "Hot Beach" has a great rest below 4th bolt.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Tits Up (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: It has been over two decades since I redpointed this great forearm endurance route in December 1991 and again in 1992. I remember it having 10 bolts with the crux at 8th bolt. It is possible to avoid the straight up crux next to the bolt, by instead traversing right and using a hold on "Hot Beach" then moving back left. I didn't go this way, but I know someone who did, and it makes the route a little easier but still .12b he thought. I thought climbing the crux straight up and keeping the route... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Paleolithic Tool Traditions (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: I have done this great route on several occasions. There is more than one way to do the crux. This makes a big difference on the rating, and I agree with the .11d/12a rating in Sharp End's 2005 guide for this reason. But really 5.11c? Give me a break. Compared to classic like Unusual Weather, this is a harder climb.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") (5.13d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: Yes, this is one of the most striking lines at Shelf Road. Good job sending this one. It was above my ability in the early 1990s, and I was climbing well then. I knew it would eventually go. What a prize. I bolted it in Fall 1992.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : World Peace (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: The original line was rated .11d/12a, but it traversed right below the crux. I retrobolted this line in Fall 2002 with the direct finish. The line now takes is harder than the original. I disagree it's only .12a. It seemed like solid .12b, and I redpointed it twice. I got the opinion of several climbers around 2003, who thought it was .12b. It seemed much harder than Eutopia at the Vault, Freeform, or The Gym ArÍte. It is definitely not as pumpy as Heavy Weather, but the crux moves are consi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sin Gaz (5.12c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Sinopia is one of favorite climbs in Boulder Canyon in recent years. Sin Gaz is a bit contrived. Most all of Matt and Ted's sport routes are excellent. Van Damage on this crag is very worthwhile. There is a long list of great routes you guys put up and this is not one of them. I found myself using most of the handholds on Sinopia as footholds. I guess it would be possible to stay right of Sinopia's 5th bolt for different crux than climbing the same moves as Sinopia to 6th bolt. This might im... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Golden Rose (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: A fun route with great rock and nice goods. That said, it's not 5.12a but more like 5.11c/d. Compare it to any number of 12a climbs - The Good, The Bad & The Jacked, Free Fall, Boulder Quartz System, Empire Of The Fenceless, Mercy Drilling, and even Days Of Future Passed (which seems a little light for the grade) this route is not as hard. At the 5th bolt, it is possible to finish directly above the bolt (.11d) or move left then up, which is a bit more committing but easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Grizzly Rose (5.10c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for bolting this line. It's a great climb with nice jugs and several interesting 5.10 sections. A perfect warm up.


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