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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Mark Rolofson


Point Rank: # 1,979
Total Points: 296
Last Year: 35
Last 30 Days: 13
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 203 | Routes 17 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts 1 | Stars 59 | Ratings 40
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Slacks (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I did this climb several times between 1989 & 1991. In late October of 2013, I finally returned to climb it again. I would like to thank the person that replaced all the bolts. Unfortunately the pin was not replaced with another pin or better yet a bolt. This climb is much more committing after the crux, especially for shorter climbers who can't reach the good hold back on the slab. The route deserves to have the same amount of fixed protection it was established with.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Crack a Smile (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: I repeated this route in early February 2013 with Angus Wiessner and in November 2010 with John Welchands. I don't agree that you need supplemental gear. First off the 4th bolt is a ways above the ledge. Secondly, I clip the 5th bolt off a good hand jam. I use a long Petzl draw as to minimize the amount of rope I have to pull out. You are not very far above the 4th bolt when you are clipping the draw. Yes there is ledge fall potential if you fell with slack out while clipping. If you're reall... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Old Man and the Sea (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: A much harder route now due to the missing sidepull pinch. I got to watch Mike Cichon climb the route last Sunday. Pretty amazing, Mike is climbing really strong! I don't think to could do it this way. Shortly after, my partner Colby Richard found a right hand sidepull that Mike or I hadn't. He managed to do this crux twice, while working the route. I am psyched to go back & try it again!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Krishna & Serenity Spire : Higher Rites (5.11b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: Great climb and a pumpy warm-up for the Berlin Wall, but I am disturbed and disappointed by the bolts that are not 3/8" wedge bolts, like the bolts on "Vishnu", but 5/16" bolts with a 1/2" nut.
My guess is that these are not wedge bolts, but externally threaded 3/8" diameter sleeve bolts. If you are going to use this type of bolt, I think is best to use the 1/2" diameter ones (a 1/2" sleeve and a 3/8" diameter bolt). If they are wedge bolts, then that's really lame and dangerously weak.
If I am... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Scratch and Sniff (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: When I first led this climb in 1989, the hold at the lip of the roof was better and clipping the 2nd bolt was not so bad. I returned in 1995, after Ken Trout replaced the bolts that had been chopped in the 1989 bolt war. The handhold at the lip had partially broken off leaving a smaller, worse hold and a harder, scary clip. I recommend prehanging a long sling on this bolt so it can be clipped from under the roof. A long extension pole is needed. It really needs another bolt added in the ceilin... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Contest (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 26, 2013

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Comments: A great pitch that offers a good pump and quite stout for the grade.
I first redpointed the route in Fall, 1988. The first ascent recorded their ascent in a notebook at the Boulder Mountaineer. I remember that they rated the climb 5.11d/12a. I climbed the route numerous times between 1988 & 1993 and have occasionally revisited the route over the years since. Returning to it and comparing it to other Front Range sport climbs, I'd have to call it .12a. I have always felt it deserved that rating... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Discipline (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 14, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this route a few times in 1989 & 1990 & revisited it in 2011. It is great route with some thin, fingery climbing past the first 2 bolts. I would have never have considered placing a large cam in the hole between 2nd & 3rd bolts. It easy & juggy here. However, I do recommend bringing a few stoppers (#6-8) to place in a horzontal crack before the last bolt. I have always placed a couple nuts here, since you're above the 5th bolt before making a tricky move to get to the last bo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Next to Nothing (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 5, 2013

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Comments: I climbed this route many times since 1998. There are times when it hasn't seemed harder than 5.12b but this year it seems much harder to repeat than "Super Bon Bon" or "Shiny Dog". I beleive Chris Alber considered rating it .12c until Fred Knapp did it and called it .12b. I think I am inclined to call it 5.12b/c. It is very stout for .12b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Shiny Dog (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: Here's the scoop on "Shiny Dog". After watching Chris Alber on this route in 1998, I have climbed it many times ever since. Yes the route is squeezed, but it may be my favorite climb on this wall because there is no where to stop & rest until your hands are in the horizontal crack above 5th bolt. You don't use the large, drilled jug pocket on the neighboring route "Super Bon Bon", because if you do, it definitely changes the grade. You can hang out from this jug switch hands and shake out. A... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 19, 2013

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Comments: I have never felt as unsafe in Boulder Canyon from rockfall as I did in May 2012. My partners, my dog & I were luckily climbing in the area of "Little Stevie's Favorite Heifer" when two big rocks came flying off the top of the crag about 50 feet left. We yelled up to warn whoever may have been above us of our presence but got no response. I quickly ran left to grab some of gear over by "Ruff Roof" when I witnessed a huge amount of big rock come raining down over the mine hole (left of the fir... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Pirate Radar (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: Great route but this route description is a bit misleading. First, this route was originally done with 4 bolts & 3 pins. In 1999, (with Bob Horan's permission) I replaced the pins with 2 bolts. The upper piton was a large angle that I removed, the other 2 pins, I couldn't get out but are easily ignored. The 5th bolt allows you to make one clip instead of clipping two pitons from the very strenuous, thin crack in the ceiling. As for bringing gear for the upper crack, you've got to be kidding!... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Hideout : Freedom Fried (5.11b PG13)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Like most of the routes at the Hideout, this is my route established in March 2003. The reason the 2nd and 3rd bolts are right of where you climb is for good reasons. First, placing these bolts left of the tiny arete & corner would mean putting them in a hollow flake. Secondly, putting the bolts to the left would encourage climbers to stem to the dirty corner & ledge to the left rather than stay on the face & lieback up the flake. It is also possible to climb this section on the arete next to t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Hideout : Harrassment (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: This is my favorite route at the Hideout. Even though it is not as classic a 5.12 as Plan B & Hot Wire on Security Risk, or Global Gorilla at Animal World, Harassment climbs a very striking, vertical arete. The bottom half of the route climbs a face that starts out easy & then turns to .12a moves above 3rd bolt. The business is a desperate face crux at 5th bolt. From a tips lieback hold in a tiny, right-facing corner, reach tiny edges and dyno to a jug. This is technical with small edges for ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Eyes (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Orginally the crux was a bit harder, with poor holds on the sloping shelf around the 9th bolt. When I climbed this route in 2007, someone must have pulled out a small piece of quartz, leaving a nice incut.
This made a move easier. Still the route felt about .12a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Green Panther (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: A great route and definitely not as hard as "Buddha Belly", but I have to say I find it very much .13a. Quite sustained with the crux past the 4th & 5th bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Buddha Belly (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Here's the FA & FFA info on this fine route. I bolted the route & then made several one hang ascents in October 1998. I returned to the route on two warm days in December 1998 with visiting German climber Jorg Strassner. With draws on the route and my beta, Jorg redpointed the route on December 4, 1998. Two days later it snowed.
I finally returned & redpointed the route in September 2001. I think the route is harder than 5.13a & rated it 5.13b in my last guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Pat Thompson is responsible for bolting & cleaning this route. I was just the first person to freeclimb it. I bolted most of the other climbs at Eagle Rock. Yes, it could have been done with less bolts, but so what? I have climbed it many times to warm up for harder routes, and it's a great climb. If you don't like it, then don't clip all the bolts or go to another crag & leave this wall for those of us who like it. I have met many people who have climbed this route and loved all the bolts.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Lawyers, Guns, and Hilties (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 13, 2012

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Comments: Ken & I established this route in Spring 1994. I recently returned and climbed again, almost two decades later. What a great line and very well protected. There are 9 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. Stick clipping the 1st bolt is advised.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Voila (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: Great route that has cleaned up since the 1990s, when it had some friable holds. One that was glue reinforced and was the clip hold for the 4th bolt. Bob used the wrong sort of glue, and after it got wet, it was useless. I pulled this hold off around 1998 and what a rude surprise as I whipped off. Luckily I wasn't clipping. Ever since, the route has been harder than 5.12a. I climbed it again in 2008 & 2012, and it is solid 5.12b if not 5.12b/c. Sustained moves from the 2nd to 6th bolt. Gr... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: A great 5.11 steep slab. The difficulty varies a bit depending on how much the climber wanders and zig zags. If you follow the bolts and climb a direct line, the route is 5.11c/d.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: Remember me from Labor Day? You are the young blonde guy and girl with mom and small that were climbing to our left. Colby, Sally, and I were on MLK. When we were done with that climb, Sally walked left to climb Lightspeed. She set her shoes done at base. Shortly after you left the crag, Sally then found her shoes missing. Sally wants them back, and I won't forget your faces. I believe they posted them missing on this site's Lost and Found. It is time to give them back.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : MLK (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: My intent on Labor Day was to first climb "Wings Of Desire". After climbing the start of that line to its 5th bolt on a sloping shelf, I clipped a 6th bolt only a few feet away up right. Then I continued straight up the face. I got to hard moves at the 11th bolt and fell off a couple times before dogging to the anchor. I thought this is desperate for 5.11b. My partner had a similar go. We then realized that we were on "MLK". It is possible and recommended to start with "Wings Of Desire" t... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Little Dude : Hampster Monkey (5.11)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments: The crux is at the 3rd bolt! Not the 2nd bolt! If you find the crux at the 3rd bolt any easier than 5.11d, you must be over left on "Moonshine". I have done this crux many times & two different ways. A big lunge to a dish or a heel hook on the jug using small sidepull holds to reach the dish. It is not just 5.11. I have been here with many 5.12 climbers, & no one has an easy time if they can do the move.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Buster Brown (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: For me, this is the hardest climb on the crag. It took me a lot of tries to make the first redpoint ascent in June 2005. I returned in 2011 to repeat the route, & it took me 9 tries over 5 days to repeat it. I have a much easier time repeating "Major Dude", "Brass Monkey", or "Double Dominatrix", which I have done many times. "Buster Brown" has some small footholds and a tiny crux edge handhold. There are some precision moves on this sustained, vertical face. It is a forearm endurance route wi... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : Frozen in Time (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: Great route, except grainy, scaly rock still rains down on the overhung arete. Because the start, past 1st bolt & small bulge, is a slab, the belayer ends up in the line of fire. So definitely wear glasses or safety goggles to avoid an eye injury. It is best for the belayer to move downhill 15-20 feet after the leader reaches the 4th bolt. Clip out of the 1st bolt to keep the rope line straight. I dislodged a small peice above 5th bolt that landed on Kirk Miller's forehead leaving a small c... more >>


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