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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: Oct 17, 2014
Contact Mark Rolofson


Point Rank: # 2,030
Total Points: 283
Last Year: 23
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 173 | Routes 17 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 1 | Stars 48 | Ratings 34
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Eyes (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Orginally the crux was a bit harder, with poor holds on the sloping shelf around the 9th bolt. When I climbed this route in 2007, someone must have pulled out a small piece of quartz, leaving a nice incut.
This made a move easier. Still the route felt about .12a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Green Panther (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: A great route and definitely not as hard as "Buddha Belly", but I have to say I find it very much .13a. Quite sustained with the crux past the 4th & 5th bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Buddha Belly (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 11, 2012

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Comments: Here's the FA & FFA info on this fine route. I bolted the route & then made several one hang ascents in October 1998. I returned to the route on two warm days in December 1998 with visiting German climber Jorg Strassner. With draws on the route and my beta, Jorg redpointed the route on December 4, 1998. Two days later it snowed.
I finally returned & redpointed the route in September 2001. I think the route is harder than 5.13a & rated it 5.13b in my last guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Eagle Hardware (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Pat Thompson is responsible for bolting & cleaning this route. I was just the first person to freeclimb it. I bolted most of the other climbs at Eagle Rock. Yes, it could have been done with less bolts, but so what? I have climbed it many times to warm up for harder routes, and it's a great climb. If you don't like it, then don't clip all the bolts or go to another crag & leave this wall for those of us who like it. I have met many people who have climbed this route and loved all the bolts.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Lawyers, Guns, and Hilties (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 13, 2012

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Comments: Ken & I established this route in Spring 1994. I recently returned and climbed again, almost two decades later. What a great line and very well protected. There are 9 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. Stick clipping the 1st bolt is advised.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Voila (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: Great route that has cleaned up since the 1990s, when it had some friable holds. One that was glue reinforced and was the clip hold for the 4th bolt. Bob used the wrong sort of glue, and after it got wet, it was useless. I pulled this hold off around 1998 and what a rude surprise as I whipped off. Luckily I wasn't clipping. Ever since, the route has been harder than 5.12a. I climbed it again in 2008 & 2012, and it is solid 5.12b if not 5.12b/c. Sustained moves from the 2nd to 6th bolt. Gr... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: A great 5.11 steep slab. The difficulty varies a bit depending on how much the climber wanders and zig zags. If you follow the bolts and climb a direct line, the route is 5.11c/d.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 20, 2012

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Comments: Remember me from Labor Day? You are the young blonde guy and girl with mom and small that were climbing to our left. Colby, Sally, and I were on MLK. When we were done with that climb, Sally walked left to climb Lightspeed. She set her shoes done at base. Shortly after you left the crag, Sally then found her shoes missing. Sally wants them back, and I won't forget your faces. I believe they posted them missing on this site's Lost and Found. It is time to give them back.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : MLK (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: My intent on Labor Day was to first climb "Wings Of Desire". After climbing the start of that line to its 5th bolt on a sloping shelf, I clipped a 6th bolt only a few feet away up right. Then I continued straight up the face. I got to hard moves at the 11th bolt and fell off a couple times before dogging to the anchor. I thought this is desperate for 5.11b. My partner had a similar go. We then realized that we were on "MLK". It is possible and recommended to start with "Wings Of Desire" t... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Little Dude : Hampster Monkey (5.11)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 27, 2012

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Comments: The crux is at the 3rd bolt! Not the 2nd bolt! If you find the crux at the 3rd bolt any easier than 5.11d, you must be over left on "Moonshine". I have done this crux many times & two different ways. A big lunge to a dish or a heel hook on the jug using small sidepull holds to reach the dish. It is not just 5.11. I have been here with many 5.12 climbers, & no one has an easy time if they can do the move.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Buster Brown (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 25, 2012

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Comments: For me, this is the hardest climb on the crag. It took me a lot of tries to make the first redpoint ascent in June 2005. I returned in 2011 to repeat the route, & it took me 9 tries over 5 days to repeat it. I have a much easier time repeating "Major Dude", "Brass Monkey", or "Double Dominatrix", which I have done many times. "Buster Brown" has some small footholds and a tiny crux edge handhold. There are some precision moves on this sustained, vertical face. It is a forearm endurance route wi... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : Frozen in Time (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 23, 2012

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Comments: Great route, except grainy, scaly rock still rains down on the overhung arete. Because the start, past 1st bolt & small bulge, is a slab, the belayer ends up in the line of fire. So definitely wear glasses or safety goggles to avoid an eye injury. It is best for the belayer to move downhill 15-20 feet after the leader reaches the 4th bolt. Clip out of the 1st bolt to keep the rope line straight. I dislodged a small peice above 5th bolt that landed on Kirk Miller's forehead leaving a small c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : The Flying Beast (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 25, 2012

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Comments: "Flying Beast" has been one of my favorite routes in the canyon since I established it in 1995. The reason that I gave the route a slash grade is because it is a very height- & reach-dependent climb. For me, it is 5.12d, not 5.13a because I am tall. I find "Nevermore" to be just a bit harder, even though it could be rated 5.12d/13a as well. Slash grading makes a lot of sense to me. It is easy to argue over grades, and as a guidebook writer, I have learned no matter hard you try, you will nev... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 12, 2012

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Comments: The routes listed here on this website are only some of the climbs on this ridge. Just left of "Wild Blue Yonder", are two excellent 5.12c climbs called "Ejaculator" and "Ganas". Scramble up to a ledge to begin. Both route are overhanging, especially "Ejaculator" which is the right of the two. My old guidebook "1995 Boulder Sport Climber's Guide" has much info to this area known as the West Bank (Aka: Wild West) that is not included on this website. Ridge 1 is called Ridge 7 in the guide. R... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Guenese (5.11a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 18, 2012

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Comments: I first climbed Guenese in Spring 1980. It is still one of favorite climbs in the canyon. I have always considered the 1st pitch to end above the roof at the 2nd two bolt anchor. The first anchor like Chris Archer mentions replaced a fixed nut and piton that people would bail out on. I have always considered this lead to be 5.11b and a pumpy one at that. In 1980, the route was more serious. Where the 2nd bolt is now, you placed a nut behind an expanding flake. You could lower on the nut, but ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Ticket (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 22, 2012

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Comments: Much misinformation by Anonymous Cowards on this website. Thanks Zach for setting the record straight. Here's a bit of history on the route. When the route was first established in 1987 by Dan Hare, Marc Hirt & Tim Hudgel, the difficult 4 bolt start was avoided and a thin crack to the right was climbed to the ledge. The upper face was climbed with 2-3 bolts. When I first climbed the route in 1990, the direct start had been added by the first ascent party in 1989, but the crack above the le... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: Great route for a summer morning. The trick for me was figuring out the move off the sloping shelf past the 5th bolt. There are several ways to do this lunge move, but only one worked for me. A second crux past 6th bolt was powerful but more obvious. Still more 5.12 above. This climb has a total of four 5.12 section in a row. The 5.11d dihedral start can feel pretty burly too.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Sideline (5.9+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 20, 2011

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Comments: Here are some corrections to the First ascent info. I was not on the first ascent of "Sideline" with Reed Dowdle and Neil Backstrom. I was sitting by the lake relaxing after a hard climbing the day before. Dianne Barrow & I hiked in there with Reed, Neil and Mort two days earlier. The date was not 1987 but August 1992. The day before their ascent of "Sideline", Dianne and I climbed the "Direct Beckey" (5.11d) on the Elephant's Perch. It was a great day on a great route with a great partner and... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : The Grendel
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 19, 2011

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Comments: For complete, detailed information to the approach and all the routes on this crag, see the final pages of my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs". The Grendel was a well kept secret for many years. It has a brilliant 100 foot 5.9, a few good 5.11s, and two 5.12s.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Caught in the Web (5.12b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 24, 2011

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Comments: I redpointed this in the Fall of 2008 just before my partner Kaelen Williams did. He redpointed both "Resinator" (5.12d) and "Caught In The Web" that day. As for me, it is my second day on this route in 2008. I had tried the route years before that. This route has some sustained, technical, vertical to overhung climbing on it. I enjoyed the unusual nature of the climb. It was very challenging. There are some things that detract from its quality. The belay zone in the talus is not great. Lowe... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : The Bruise Collector (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 24, 2011

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Comments: Great route. In the Summer of 2001, my friends and I may have been the second party to climb the route. I remember returning with a wire brush because Richard Wright (the first ascentionist) did not brush much lichen off. It was very dirty. After cleaning the route, I thought it was a brilliant 5.12a. I climbed it numerous times in 2002. I was shocked to see it rated 5.11c in Bernard Gillett's guidebook to the South Saint Vrain.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Mighty Dog (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 10, 2011

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Comments: The first free ascent of this route was by Jimmy Menendez in Fall 1999. After having climbed in Clear Creek since 1991, I have a very hard time calling this route only 5.12c. I have done Sucking My Will To Live, Anarchitect, Great Escape, Ken T'ank, Maestro, Head Like A Hole (to mention a few 5.12c & 5.12d climbs). All these routes were easier than Mighty Dog. I have also watched other climbers on this route. Some of them 5.13 climbers. The ratings I have heard vary from 5.12d to 5.13a/b. ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Wooly Bully (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 10, 2011

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Comments: This is one of the best climbs I have ever done on North Table Mountain. The first 5.12 crux is past the 3rd bolt. The real crux is past the 4th bolt. I was very close to redpointing it in the Spring 2010 (or so I thought), so I did not list it as a project in "Golden Rock Climbs". I finally had to discover new beta for the crux after using two other sequences with poor foot smears. There are still hard moves past 5th bolt to a jug from where to clip 6th bolt. Then, it's 5.11 tricky climbi... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 19, 2010

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Comments: For the complete beta to Dude's Throne, Little Dude's Throne, and the Grendel, I just released a new guidebook titled "Golden Rock Climbs" (September 2010) that retails for $20.00. The guide is a complete guide to North Table Mountain including its four quarry walls. The latter part of the book is devoted to the sport climbs near Dude's Fishing Hole in Golden Gate State Park. Yes, it is quite the contrast to North Table's slick basalt and urban setting. For the warm season when the rattlesnak... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: "Golden Rock Climbs is now available for $20.00 retail and features 144 pages including 32 cliff diagram photos, 14 climbing photos, topo drawings, maps and text. The new guide includes the basalt climbs of the Golden Cliffs, South Quarry, East Quarry, Sea Cliffs, Crater Crag on North Table Mountain. For the warmer months, it includes the sport climbs of Golden Gate State Park near Dude's Fishing Hole (about 50 granite climbs).


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