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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Mark Rolofson

Point Rank: # 1,770
Total Points: 366
Last Year: 96
Last 30 Days: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 321 | Routes 19 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 126 | Posts 3 | Stars 94 | Ratings 69
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Sky Cafe
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: I have been very reluctant to post any of the 12 routes, I established at this crag. They are good routes. A few of them are excellent on great rock, but I like to get away from the crowds that inhabit the Sport Park. It is always nice to come up here & find solitude. The information is easy to find in the back pages of my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II (upper canyon)". This hasn't made this crag popular. There are about 100 copies of this book l... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Stone Cafe : Yin Pin (aka Stonefish) (5.10d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: The name of the route is "Yin Pin". I established this route with Sharon Kloepfer on July 13, 2008. I rated it 5.11b. I thought the start had a hard move at the top of the short arÍte to gain the slab at 4th bolt. The final overhang has interesting moves as well. I did not grab the chains as George did but climbed to where my hands were on top & I could stand on a hold. Interesting that you found the slab dirty. I did wire brush this line. I guess if you stray much it could be lichenous. Perhaps... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Flyer (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Thank you, Randy, for your historical account of Hot Flyer & complimentary remarks of my retrobolting the climb. There are a few things I would like to clarify. I was belaying Andy Parkin in 1982 when he took the 50-60 foot fall. He fell once at the roof on two fixed copperheads & they held. On his next try, he downclimbed rather than fall & grabbed the heads. His outward pull unseated them. Had the heads pulled in a fall from the roof, he would have possibly decked. As he fell, poor RPs & a @PO... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Bertha (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Worth doing especially for such a short route. Wow, Mike, it took you 4 tries! I can see why. It took me 3 tries, & I was glad I sent it. The rain had washed the chalk off many of the holds. On my first go, I missed a good edge for my right hand above 3rd bolt. After finding it, that didn't solve everything, because the hardest moves come after clipping 4th bolt. It is committing getting to this bolt (even though safe) with the 3rd bolt at your feet for the clip. At first I did not find the clip... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : The Formula (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: Here is some first ascent history. I established this climb on Feb. 18, 1981. There were originally 5 pitons. Two side by side knifeblades to protect the crux start & 3 poor upwardly driven pins in the .10d roof. I didn't trust any of the upper 3 pitons & finally removed the worst of the upper 2 pins because the route was controversial for the number of pins used. The rest of the climb was protected on RPs up the dihedral & a #1.5, 4 Friend, & 5 RP past the upper pins. The climb was origi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Boot Lead (5.11d X)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: Perhaps I am being picky, but if my memory serves me correctly, Skip led this route in 1982 not 1983. I guess I will have to dig up my old "Climbing" magazines in my storage & see if this info exists. As for the climb, it feels like .12a on a top rope. I have not led it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdeath/Candallegro (5.13b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: I redpointed this climb in December 1994 after 4 days of attempts. I thought it was a bit easier than than The Web or Captain Crunch that I did not redpoint. The climbing is 5.12a/b to the last bolt. Then it gets technical & powerful, moving right off an good undercling to poor rounded sidepull edge that I matched on. You are on the left side of the overhung arÍte at that point. I remember hooking a foot around the right side. Then reach or dyno up a series of tiny edges & to a jug hueco. Sudden... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Sheer Terror (5.12c X)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: Yes, Skip Guerin was truly the baddest and the best in The West. He may have had sticky rubber Fire shoes. I got my first pair in June 1983. They weren't available the first half of that year. Either way, this is one lead I had no interest in repeating.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Little Dude : Big Lebowsky (5.13b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 16, 2015

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Comments: Just two hard moves! I wish, but I do think the first crux has two moves that are more powerful than the rest of the route. The second crux seems pretty hard, too. Must be nice to be young & strong. My advice is you should stop wasting your time climbing 5.13s. There is a world of 5.14 & 5.15 climbs that you might not find so soft for the grade. I believe it's for you. Leave the 5.13b climbs for us old guys. This one feels hard from the 3rd bolt to the anchor. Good job sending!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : The Ancient of Days (5.9-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Truly a nice piece of stone. A beautiful place to climb when the flowers are blooming. The route length seems closer to 80 feet, not just 50 feet. You could rate it 5.8 or 5.9- depending on how you climb over the first roof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Tony. I am not sure how to turn a page over to someone else. If you know how, that would be great. Much appreciated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Yellow Tail (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Eric, Are you sure you were on this route & not the route to the right "Steel Pulse". I have climbed this route numerous times now. Seems pretty solid for the most part. There are several interesting sections: The start past first 2 bolts, past 3rd & 4th bolts & the wild, committing mantle over a bulge onto a sloping shelf, above 6th bolt. Love it! Good warm-up for Frisky Cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Short Sport Route (5.10+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: This is "Short Sport", what else could it be? Really, 5.10+! Wow I never thought the grade in Bob's book was incorrect at 5.11b/c. It is definitely not as hard as Steel Pulse (.11c) on these crags, so maybe I could see calling it .11b or as low as 11a/b. It is harder than Big Tuna (.11a). One thing it is not is 5.10d.
None of my partners questioned the 5.11 rating. Short but sustained for its length. Better than it looks too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Heat Wave (5.9)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Perhaps I am reading too much into your opinion. That said it really caught my attention to see this route rated 5.9 with a bomb for quality rating. First, the route was originally graded .10c. If you had led it with its original gear, I will bet no one would have called it 5.9. I could agree that in its original state you could bomb this route. There was a bail biner on the 3rd bolt when I led it rope solo. I went the easiest way finishing up the rotten arÍte. I thought there were 5.10 moves at... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Lower Security Risk : Ecstasy of the People (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: This is a very odd comment by Taylor Roy. I established the route on March 9, 1995. I redpointed it twice that month. I also cleaned a lot of lichen. It is hard to believe you could spend a hour more, but I guess it is possible. I also don't remember leaving a loose block below the anchor. I am curious now if the block is really loose or just a hollow flake. Perhaps it is too big to want to trundle. As for placing gear, it didn't seem necessary if you can climb this route.
It is interesting that... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Hot Wire (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Bobbi's redpoint was awesome, today, especially after the effort we spent working the route Friday & today. It has been 18 years since I redpointed this route. Chris Alber was the first to send the route on March 8, 1997. For him, the route flowed easily & he called it .12c. In fact, he'd sent it two or three times before I finally redpointed it on March 23, 1997. Hot Wire was my first hard tick after recovering from a shoulder injury. I thought it was .12d. It took me longer to redpoint it than... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Pinche Guey (5.12-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: Definitely the best route on the crag & worth repeating. As for the grade, when I first climbed this route in Fall 2008, it was originally rated .12c. I felt it was overrated & not as hard as "Caught In The Web" or other .12c climbs. However, calling it .12a is a sandbag compared to "Free Fall", "Warf Factor", or "Furious Howard Brown" (all .12a). I have always felt it was solid .12b, if not .12b/c. I've redpointed it at least once a year since 2008 & have yet to do it first try hanging the dr... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Yes, there is actually a comfortable no hands rest in the dihedral. I didn't find it until 2011. I orginally found a very dicey, no hands stem that took enough body tension that I couldn't relax & slow my breathing. So I preferred to rest switching hands using lieback holds with feet on good edges. Basically in the same spot with minor adjustment is a great rest which does make the climb seem a bit easier.


Location: CO : Coal Creek Canyon : Echo Canyon (aka The Scoop)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: Since July of 2014, many trees were chopped down, thus eliminating most of the blue paint dots & the pink survey tape. Many of the trees were along the trail, but even more were on the hill above & below it. A very significant number of pine trees were chopped down & left in big stacked piles as of August 2014. Is this just fire mitigation or is this the beginning of the Gross Reservoir expansion? It definitely made Chris's blue dots seem rather benign. The Gross Reservoir expansion is something... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : Second Coming (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 1, 2015

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Comments: I find it unfortunate that Tony Bubb from Boulder, Colorado wrote the description for this route & not a local. Tony uses the description to disagree with the quality other climbers have attributed to this fine climb. It is a classic overhung soft rock sport climb. Well worth the drive & repeating. Very well bolted with some small edges & engaging clips around 3rd & 4th bolts. The powerful sidepull / sloper finish makes for a sustained .12a. I don't remember the polish. If it's hot it might fee... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Plan B (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: Plan B has been one of my favorite climbs since it was established in 1994. It is always a super pump with fun moves. Here are the first ascent facts: F.A.: Ken Trout in Feb. 1994. F.F.A.: Henry Lester in April 1994. Finished added (F.A. of entire route) by Mark Rolofson in July 1994. Most people still stop at the first anchor. I find the finish, even though not as hard, rounds out the pump. It climbs the entire 95 ft. face rather than ending it on a slabby section. Ken was using 50 meter ropes ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Grande Finale (5.12d PG13)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: I have climbed at this crag many times over the past 15 years, but today was my first time on this route. Unlike its neighbor "Voila" to the right, "Grand Finale" is not perfectly bolted. It is impressively hard, but I feel it would be a much better route if the 2nd bolt, maybe 3rd bolt & 4th bolt were moved right. Peter is absolutely correct that you are wise to preclip the 3rd bolt. Moving the 2nd bolt right & maybe up as far as you can stretch would protect the hard moves off the ledge. Proba... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Little Crag : Smooth Operator (5.11d X)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: I led this climb twice in 1985. The first ascent & then months later, repeated it with Cindy Peiropan belaying me. There is actually a lot of protection, but most of it is tiny (#2 micro stoppers or RPs). The start is a very short, small right-facing corner with a #5 or #6 micro stopper, that protects the traverse right to the shallow thin seam ascending the steep slab. Marginal #2 RPs protect moves to the end of the seam.

Here is a deep, thin slot where a #2 and/... more >>


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : 49 (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: It has now been over 6 years since last visited Maple Canyon & redpointed this route in Oct. 2008. I didn't disagree with its original .12b rating and
that year I redpointed 78 routes between .12a & .13a. The hardest moves on 49 were only .11c but my god what a pump! True endurance climbing. Unlike most .12bs with multiple .12a cruxes or a real .12b crux, this climb is a jug
haul that overhangs 25 ft. in 80 ft. There are 10 protection bolts and the only great rest is on a stance below a final ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: I established this route in December 1993. It is still one of the best first ascents I've done. It don't remember leaving any loose rock on the route. I did pull off a huge, 5 foot block at the base of the climb. I was worried as the block crashed downhill, but it stopped long before the road in talus & boulders. The big concern about trundling here is making sure no one is walking up the hill. Pick a cold weekday, and rap in from above. Look to see if there are no cars in the parking lot. If yo... more >>


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