Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Mark Rolofson

Point Rank: # 1,774
Total Points: 365
Last Year: 95
Last 30 Days: 12
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 321 | Routes 19 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 126 | Posts 3 | Stars 94 | Ratings 69
Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Price For Fire (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: Here is the first ascent info: F.A.: Ken Trout in January 1993. (5.12d A0). F.F.A.: Mark Rolofson on January 31,1993.

My friend, Ken bolted this superb, wildly overhung climb & then received a lot of shit from the bouldering elite for putting up a sport climb at THEIR bouldering area. Then he invited me to join him. We worked on it together for 3-4 days before I redpointed it. Ken had already done all the moves, so I owe him much credit.

Before redpointing it, one local had already unscrewed t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Tell-Tale Heart (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This was the first sport route established at this crag in May 1995. I originally rated it .12a. For me, it is much easier than Plan B or Joyride. It was only after watching many good shorter climbers struggle & call it 5.12 that I decided to rate it .12b. Shorter climbers climb the crux differently making more moves. This route was the beginning of a long, wonderful summer of putting up new routes at the crag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock
By: Mark Rolofson When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This year is the 20th anniversary of most sport routes at this crag, including the first ones I established in May 1995. These were Tell Tale Heart, Elanor, & Evermore. Beginning with my early guidebooks to the crag, I made some strong recommendations. First, the ledge approach is serious. Bringing young children or dogs warrants real caution. Put a harness on the dog & the kids. Better yet, go somewhere else. I have climbed much less at this crag, since I have had a dog. There are plenty of oth... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Nevermore (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: In response to Jay Samuelson not understanding the anchor placement: Evermore was established before Nevermore, & the anchor works good for it. Secondly, I did not want someone doing Tell Tale Heart to go to this anchor. Climbers can climb Evermore & Tell Tale Heart at the same time, but not if they mistakenly arrive at the same anchor. Thirdly, before drilling, I always hammer tap the rock to make sure it is solid & not hollow sounding. I can't remember if this could have a factor.
As for clean... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Terminal Velocity (5.11b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: One of my old favorite Eldo gear routes. The actual first ascent date was November 29, 1980. We originally did it as a 2 pitch climb, since there is a big ledge in the middle. I led the first pitch (5.11 R), & Alfredo Len led the second pitch up the dihedral (5.10). We later learned that Eric Doub had already led the second pitch in August 1980, via an easier, indirect start to avoid the 5.11 first pitch.
The upper dihedral can be climbed using holds on the arÍte to the right (5.10b) or climbed ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This was the third sport route established at the crag in May 1995. I don't know how you can call it contrived or .12b/c. The final crux is the same as Nevermore, but getting to the last bolt presents an interesting dyno as well. After clipping 7th bolt, I make a big dyno with my right hand to the good hold to clip last bolt from. Yes, you could avoid this dyno by traversing more left & doing this section the same way as Nevermore (.12a), but it feels run out enough I have always done the dyno. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Nevermore (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely one of my all time favorites. Tell Tale Heart was the first sport route on the crag, followed by Elanor, then Evermore (the easier way to get to the same crux from Elanor), then Empire Of The Fenceless, then Flying Beast. After that, I put up Nevermore in July 1995. I had the crux move wired doing it on "Evermore" but fell just shy on the horizontal jug break for almost 5 days on Nevermore. I had to find a better way to dyno this crux. I finally redpointed it on day 6. After the first... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Hideout : Brat Slamet (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The name of this route is Brat Slamet (not Slamit). I cleaned, bolted, & led the climb with a hang. F.A.: (5.12 A0) in April 2001. F.F.A.: Henry Lester on March 15, 2003. I belayed Henry, my friend & longtime climbing partner, on this desperate thin, shallow seam. It tweeked my right hand ring finger tendon badly. I was forced to stay on jugs for a couple months to heal it. I returned on January 10 2004 to finally redpoint it. We rated it .12c. It definitely earns its grade.

I have ignored Tayl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Wyoming Prairie Dogs (5.10a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty funny! chipped!? Try dynamited up to 3rd bolt, to put the aqueduct in. Isn't it amazing how climbers worry about a possible chipped hold & ignore the greater impacts that we humans are creating. This route is a great addition to the crag. Interesting slab climbing on solid rock.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Green Chile (5.11b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This was the second route on the crag established on June 9, 2003. After Open Space Cowboy, June heated up, so we went to find the shade.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Open Space Cowboy (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This was our first route on the crag & in Golden Gate. First ascent date was June 8, 2003. Always fun to repeat, but I keep cutting my left arm below 5th bolt unless I tape or wear a jacket.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty cool seeing these old photos on MP of me & Terry Lien from February 1979 when we made the second ascent with Brian Smoot (the first ascentiinist). Thanks Brian for posting them. It was a very memorable route & day, plus a great intro to Little Cottonwood. Thanks for showing me around back then. Those were fun times.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Little Dude : Big Lebowsky (5.13b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Monty, I deleted my last two comments. I suggest you do the same. Why? I feel we have digressed, & comments on this page should be about this route. Kevin has sent the route & thus earned the right to call it soft for the grade or downrate it if he chooses. I think you should post your YDS rating opinion after you have redpointed this route, rather than dish out broad insulting statements based on 4 of my many routes. I haven't redpointed this route either, so perhaps my opinion will change once... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, there are two ways to climb this route. In September 2009, I redpointed this route & thought it was the easiest .12d I had ever done. My partner, Henry Lester, was working on this route moving onto the arÍte above the roof, at 6th bolt, & then following the arÍte. I tried this briefly, & it seemed quite hard. So I followed the seam up the face. Just past 7th bolt, the short, discontinuous hand crack provides a nice rest before the crux traversing left to the arÍte. Being tall, I am able to ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Pterodactyl Traverse (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: In August 2000, I actually did more than just equip this climb. I redpointed to where I was able to grab the right anchor (.12c). My intent was not to stop here but to traverse more left to the jug on the lip of the giant overhang. Here the anchor can be clipped. So I took the right anchor bolt out & put a new left anchor bolt in. The original left bolt becoming the right, so you couldn't end the route this way. I then added the last protection bolt which is a hard clip. The last moves to the ju... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Buddha Belly (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for your analysis, Train 4 Life. If my memory serves me correctly, Peter Beal made the second ascent in Summer 2000 & told me that he thought it was solid 5.13b. Obviously he changed his opinion, which is valid. What makes it valid or not is why. I don't know the answer. Did he return & repeat the route & decide it wasn't that hard? Or did he just decide to agree with others that were calling it .13a? In any case, it's a great climb that delivers a great pump without hurting your fingers.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for your comment, Jack. Bob's book is just wrong about climbing the crack on the upper part (pitch 2) of the climb & so is the route description posted on this page of MP. The crack is Bong Session. I have climbed both routes, & I love Pipe Dreams. Please refer to the earlier guidebooks such as Richard Rossiter's or my "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". The climb ascends the face which has some nice pockets. I really like this part of the route.

Yes,... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Major Dude (5.12c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty funny. I'd have to totally disagree. I find this to be the easiest of all the five hard routes (5.12c/d to 5.13a) on Dude's Throne. The fifth being the variation to Major Dude's finish that you are asking about. That info plus the linkup can be found in my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs". To my knowledge, Vaino Kodas is the only one who has done it.
As for Major Dude, it was our first hard route on the crag. John Flunker sent it twice on the same day when he made the first redpoint & was r... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Mutant Overload (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great pitch with a few manufactured holds. There are two ways to do the crux at 6th bolt. The more direct way using the undercling for the left hand then dynoing to the jug with the right has always felt quite hard (.12d). This is how I climbed it numerous times over the years. In 2012, I figured out I could traverse left another move to to big sidepull flake & then reach the jug. Then way is less obvious but easier to execute (.12c).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Go Dog Go (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: One of my favorite routes at Sport Park. This gives Butt Lucious an interesting direct finish. I skip the next to last bolt in the middle of the crux. It takes more energy to clip it than it's worth, considering it is a clean fall. It is a nice dog bolt to work the moves. Some people do clip it. Great moves & not with big holds. Small edges, an undercling, & a high step.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: After watching someone climb the indirect start, it seems very apparent that it wouldn't be a nice fall way to the left of the 2nd bolt. There are good reasons that until 2013 (the first 9 years of this climb's existence) no one went this way. First the direct line is the obvious weakness following a seam crack/vertical edge. Secondly, the less obvious indirect variation looks dangerous. Has anyone fallen off of it? This pendulum fall seems like it would land you crashing into lower angle rock o... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Shiny Dog (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hey, Curt, if you don't like it that's just fine with me. Go somewhere else. I find myself returning to this wall many times over the years. It has a quick approach, & it is more sheltered from the wind than most areas in the canyon. The fact that I can do five 5.12 routes & barely move my rope bag is a plus. It's a great training wall with much to offer. I am not condoning this route density at most crags, like really classic areas. Let's be real too, Dude. The bolts aren't 6 inches apart. They... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Consilience (5.11b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great route. Thanks, Vaino, for doing such a fine job bolting & cleaning. That said, shame on Bob D'Antonio for putting it in his Boulder Canyon guidebook that you can get down this climb with a 60 meter rope & to Ron Olsen for doing so in this post. Please refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II (2005)" that states bring a 70 meter rope or two ropes to descend. A guidebook writer shouldn't given a pass by the climbing community or industry fo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Global Gorilla (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: As first ascentionist of this route (and the first to guidebook it), I find it pretty bizarre to see it described as a 3 pitch climb. We never attempted this route in multi-pitch fashion, only as one long pitch. In fact, if you were to belay atop pitch 1, it would create a point of aid to rest. I can't imagine falling off with your belayer right below you to crash into. I describe each stage as lower (.11b), middle (12c) & upper (.12b/c).
I established the middle stage in 1996 & originally ca... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Stone Cafe : Gruel Shoes (5.8)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route was established by Dan Hare. I rope soloed it in 2008 & have repeated it. I didn't find any gear necessary. You can always used a locking biner on the bolt hanger if you are worried about leverage.


Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!