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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: Jul 9, 2016
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Point Rank: # 1,878
Total Points: 399
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 420 | Routes 20 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 149 | Posts 42 | Stars 113 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fang : Perfect Stemetry (5.12c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: This was the second route that I established on The Fang. Belligerent Buttress was the first. Both of the these lines were bolted & soon redpointed in September 1992. This is a very clean & unique line.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fang : Goldfinger (5.13b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: Here is the first ascent history of this technical vertical face climb. I equipped the line in Fall 1992. The weather soon turned too cold to work on the route. I returned several times in 1993 & 1994, with a variety of partners who were not interested to putting in the effort to send the route. The crimpy, small edges nature of the hard climbing isn't enjoyable at first. It's become enjoyable & exhilarating after conditioning the fingers for the holds.
In... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Botany of Desire (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: As documented in Bernard Gillett's guidebook "Rock Climbing St. Vrain Canyon" the first redpoint ascent to the original anchor (75-80 ft.) was made by Mark Rolofson, Mike Olson, & Henry Lester in 2002. We ended our effort at the chains. Gillett claims we grabbed the chains. Not true. We clipped the short draw on the anchor & then attempted one more move left to a jug, which we all failed to reach. Ending at the jug would have been preferable, but the climb ended at an anchor 15-20 below the top ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Boulder Quartz System (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: This climb has been one of my favorites, having climbed it many times. The amazing quartz system followed by steep climbing through a strenuous bulge offers some of the best climbing in Lower Dream Canyon.

I just repeated it & didn't find a loose sidepull. I am assuming Eric is talking about the good lieback hold in the shallow crack system that you clip the 5th bolt from. At this point, there are two ways to go. I go left to a flat edge then up to the undercling flake. It also goes up slightly... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : The Art of Dreaming (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: The original rating of this climb was .12c. I have redpointed it twice, first in 2003 & then returned in 2014 to redpoint it again. Neither time did it feel easy. It is harder than Lucky Strikes, which I repeated on the same day in 2014 that I repeated Art Of Dreaming. Art Of Dreaming is very technical with a difficult, committing clip to the 3rd bolt. I suggest hanging a medium & a long Petzl draw on the 4th bolt to clip early before the crux moves. A fall onto the 3rd bolt can land you very cl... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 26, 2016

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Comments: I strongly believe that all the fixed draws should be removed from this route. The last time I was at the Dog House, last year, the draws were very faded. This route doesn't need fixed draws. For many years, this route was climbed hanging the draws. I used to have it very wired & did it many times on the first try hanging the draws. This makes the route feel like solid 5.12. The fixed draws make this climb too easy & invites too many people to try it that would otherwise stay off of it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12a/b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Since Fall 2002, I have climbed this route many times. I have always stick clipped the 2nd bolt. I would recommend this to most people trying this route. Blowing this clip would be a ledge fall & really impact the belayer. The crux is the overhanging start with powerful crimpy moves. Once you at the 3rd bolt, the climbing is sustained 5.11 with a second redpoint crux after the 4th bolt (.11d/12a). Gain the shelf & no hands rest at 8th bolt & it's over. There is an exciting runout 5.10 finish. G... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Hellhound (originally submi... (5.12 A0 R)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: John, the only falsehood here is the A0 rating & gear recommendation for a few flaccid nuts. For years I have avoided commenting on this route posting, to avoid exactly the sort response that you wrote. However, I felt this description (by Orphaned) of the route, does a huge public disservice. Anyone unaware of the route's history, that doesn't understand the disgruntled sarcasm, could be misinformed. It is not an aid climb! Climb it with 1 bolt, all 4 bolts, or lead it with no bolts, it is sti... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Hellhound (originally submi... (5.12 A0 R)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 16, 2016

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Comments: The original name of the route was "Hellhound" & rated .12c. Calling it the Viagra Crack & rating it A0 is ridiculous. The history of the first ascent by John Langston, goes as follows (some of it I personally witnessed): first, John attempted to establish the route on lead drilling 2 bolts on aid. Then below the next to last bolt on Pretzel Logic, he fell pulling pro from breaking rock. To finish he swung over to Pretzel Logic & finished up that line. He returned to clean, inspect pro & top rop... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Eastern Heart (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: Very interesting reading the comments on this route. I have not climbed it since February 2009, but I am a bit surprised to hear that there is much loose rock. The top half of the route is on the softer rock, so it is understandable that things could break or crumble, especially if you stray from the line. The bottom seemed solid, but freeze-thaw action can loosen things up. I have seen a lot of holds break at the East Quarry. My advice is stay off routes at the quarries after heavy rains or sno... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Lost and Found (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: I was just on this route today. I hadn't climbed it since 2009. I've climbed it several times since 2000. I didn't see any new bolts. The hole left of 5th bolt was there before Tod bolted this climb. It's the reason he named it Lost & Found.
Dan Hare had drilled some holes, years before but never returned to bolt the route. This was something Dan did often. There are empty holes on Vasodilator past the 7th bolt. He drilled them 2 years before I established that route. He didn't place one bolt, n... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : The Underdog (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 26, 2015

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Comments: Like most routes at the Dog House, this route was established by Alan Nelson in July 1999. Please refer the 2006 edition of Clear Creek Canyon Sport Climber's Guide. The best way to start this route is to do the bottom half of "Dog Run" for 5 bolts (5.11), then move right for the upper 5 bolts of "Underdog". I call this link-up "Run Underdog" in the guidebook. I am uncertain who did the FA of this variation. Run Underdog avoids the big chimney that Underdog starts up, making it more pumpy. I avo... more >>


Location: CO : Eldo Roof Route Re-Bolting ...
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: The glue-ins & the Fixe wedge bolts are stainless. As for the Rawl 5-piece & 6 piece, due to almost a complete lack of moisture, I believe you could wait at least 10 years & they'd still be safe. Plated steel Rawl 5-piece are actually stronger than the stainless steel version of this bolt.
I was involved in replacing most of these bolts myself & was the hardware replacement organizer for 4 Celebrate Eldorado events from 1995-1998.
There are some bolts I would replace here. I replaced the anchor... more >>


Location: CO : Eldo Roof Route Re-Bolting ...
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: Unbelievable. Why fix it if it doesn't need it? Most of the bolts on the Roof Wall were replaced in the late 1990s. Most of bolts are 1/2" x 3-3/4" Rawl 6-piece bolts. There are some Fixe stainless steel double expansion wedge bolts & glue-ins.
Focus should be on Fire & Ice protection bolts, Clever Dance, & Wasabe's ring bolts.
I climbed at the roofs this Spring, & the bolts seemed in very good condition. The wall under the roofs gets almost no moisture, so there is no visible signs of rust.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Psycho Babble (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: This route description bears very little resemblance to the climb Psycho Babble established by Bob D'Antonio & me on February 13, 1983. I looked at my records & "The Hard Stuff - A Climber's Guide to the Turkey Rock Area and other South Platte Crags" (that I wrote & published in 1984). This route ascends a shallow thin crack that diagonals right across a vertical face. After 25-30 feet, move straight up the face to finish up a short, tiny left-facing corner. I remember Bob falling 15 ft. onto a ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Zoo : Living with the Apes (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: I have climbed this route several times since 2000, when I first documented it in the first edition of Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide. The climb is not an easy .12a, & I usually do it on my second try after hanging the draws. I think it may have gotten a little harder at the crux past the 5th bolt, since part of a hold on the right side of the arĂȘte has broken off. I would compare it in difficulty to Kudjo Tranquilizer, that I originally rated .12a but is now rated .1... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Mud Shark (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: I returned & repeated this climb on Labor Day. It has been 10 years or more since I last climbed it. What a great pitch! I had climbed it several times since 1998. The shallow, leaning crack followed by the steep slab is techinical & insecure on perfect stone. I think I will stick with the .12a rating I gave it in my last guidebook to the area "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I". There are now a total of 12 clips, since one got added to the shared start. 7 bolt... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Joh... (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch with a fun vertical start, a hard crux in the middle & an interesting balancy stand up to finish. As for the grade, I will stick with the .11d rating this climb used to have. I am rarely one to down rate, but this climb is much less sustained & easier than "Awakenings"(.12a/b) or "Earth Voyage". It felt easier than "Mudshark" too. I have climbed this route four times since 2008, but I never seem to get it wired, because it's always more than a year between ascents. After a perfect re... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Invisible Touch (5.12-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Tony, your interpretation of .12- is new & strange to me. After 43 years of climbing, I have always thought that .12a & .12- were exactly the same rating. 5.12 & .12b/c are the same rating. 5.12d & .12+ are the same rating. I think this climb is at least 5.12 or .12b/c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.11c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Wow. What a huge amount of bullshit in the comment section & the grades. First, having done this route many times (& I am tall), this route feels like .11d at the 3rd bolt. I rated it .12a/b after watching numerous shorter climbers on the route. Most were stumped, a few suceeded with much more technical beta than my lunge move. Perhaps .11d/12a is a better rating. That said, it is a classic route for Boulder Canyon. There are 8 protection bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Hair Shirt (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: I believe I was the person that introduced Kaelen Williams to this crag & this route. I feel I should defend this climb & critique this post. First, calling these manufactured holds ugly is a matter of opinion & one I don't share. This climb is a masterpiece with big moves & fun holds to climb on. The large hueco in the ceiling looks natural. As for this route & others at the Clock Tower that have some manufactured holds, I have enjoyed many days of great training here. Where I don't usually adv... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : The Big Dipper (5.10d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Let's be real about the grade. Calling this .10a is just plain ridiculous. I have felt this climb could be rated .10d, & in areas where overhanging 5.10 is the norm, it probably would be. That said, I've watched many climbers struggle & hang going past 4th bolt up the short, left-facing crack corner. This lieback, fingerlock section is a real crux with overhanging moves leading up to it. There aren't many other continuously overhung 5.10 sport routes in Boulder Canyon. I have always felt that st... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Beaver Fever (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Wow! I never thought I'd see the direct start be rated 5.11 or even .11d. Are you sure you were on the correct route? Leave It To Beaver has a high 1st bolt that must be climbed up to from the left, above the starting ledge. This is followed by a hand traverse right past 2nd bolt to reach a small, left-facing corner. Beaver Fever is the 3 bolt direct start just right of Leave It To Beaver & just left of Mutant Overload (the black streak). It can either be done to start Leave It To Beaver or Muta... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Sky Cafe : Ride the Wind (5.10d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Glen, where I would rather NOT see the routes on this crag posted on this site, I can't stop you from posting it. That said you have crossed a line by using my route description from "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II" without my written permission that you do not have. This is copyright infringement; even though you did mention the source.
That was good. That said I don't want to see my route descriptions used on MP. Please write your own descripti... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Price For Fire (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Here is the first ascent info: F.A.: Ken Trout in January 1993. (5.12d A0). F.F.A.: Mark Rolofson on January 31,1993.

My friend, Ken bolted this superb, wildly overhung climb & then received a lot of shit from the bouldering elite for putting up a sport climb at THEIR bouldering area. Then he invited me to join him. We worked on it together for 3-4 days before I redpointed it. Ken had already done all the moves, so I owe him much credit.

Before redpointing it, one local had already unscrewed t... more >>


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