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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: Jan 21, 2016
Contact Mark Rolofson

Point Rank: # 1,792
Total Points: 391
Last Year: 96
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Rolofson been climbing?










Contributions


All 395 | Routes 20 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 141 | Posts 39 | Stars 106 | Ratings 79
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Hellhound (originally submi... (5.12 A0 R)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 16, 2016

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Comments: The original name of the route was "Hellhound" & rated .12c. Calling it the Viagra Crack & rating it A0 is ridiculous. The history of the first ascent by John Langston, goes as follows (some of it I personally witnessed): first, John attempted to establish the route on lead drilling 2 bolts on aid. Then below the next to last bolt on Pretzel Logic, he fell pulling pro from breaking rock. To finish he swung over to Pretzel Logic & finished up that line. He returned to clean, inspect pro & top rop... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Eastern Heart (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: Very interesting reading the comments on this route. I have not climbed it since February 2009, but I am a bit surprised to hear that there is much loose rock. The top half of the route is on the softer rock, so it is understandable that things could break or crumble, especially if you stray from the line. The bottom seemed solid, but freeze-thaw action can loosen things up. I have seen a lot of holds break at the East Quarry. My advice is stay off routes at the quarries after heavy rains or sno... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Lost and Found (5.12a/b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: I was just on this route today. I hadn't climbed it since 2009. I've climbed it several times since 2000. I didn't see any new bolts. The hole left of 5th bolt was there before Tod bolted this climb. It's the reason he named it Lost & Found.
Dan Hare had drilled some holes, years before but never returned to bolt the route. This was something Dan did often. There are empty holes on Vasodilator past the 7th bolt. He drilled them 2 years before I established that route. He didn't place one bolt, n... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : The Underdog (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Nov 26, 2015

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Comments: Like most routes at the Dog House, this route was established by Alan Nelson in July 1999. Please refer the 2006 edition of Clear Creek Canyon Sport Climber's Guide. The best way to start this route is to do the bottom half of "Dog Run" for 5 bolts (5.11), then move right for the upper 5 bolts of "Underdog". I call this link-up "Run Underdog" in the guidebook. I am uncertain who did the FA of this variation. Run Underdog avoids the big chimney that Underdog starts up, making it more pumpy. I avo... more >>


Location: CO : Eldo Roof Route Re-Bolting ...
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: The glue-ins & the Fixe wedge bolts are stainless. As for the Rawl 5-piece & 6 piece, due to almost a complete lack of moisture, I believe you could wait at least 10 years & they'd still be safe. Plated steel Rawl 5-piece are actually stronger than the stainless steel version of this bolt.
I was involved in replacing most of these bolts myself & was the hardware replacement organizer for 4 Celebrate Eldorado events from 1995-1998.
There are some bolts I would replace here. I replaced the anchor... more >>


Location: CO : Eldo Roof Route Re-Bolting ...
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: Unbelievable. Why fix it if it doesn't need it? Most of the bolts on the Roof Wall were replaced in the late 1990s. Most of bolts are 1/2" x 3-3/4" Rawl 6-piece bolts. There are some Fixe stainless steel double expansion wedge bolts & glue-ins.
Focus should be on Fire & Ice protection bolts, Clever Dance, & Wasabe's ring bolts.
I climbed at the roofs this Spring, & the bolts seemed in very good condition. The wall under the roofs gets almost no moisture, so there is no visible signs of rust.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Psycho Babble (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: This route description bears very little resemblance to the climb Psycho Babble established by Bob D'Antonio & me on February 13, 1983. I looked at my records & "The Hard Stuff - A Climber's Guide to the Turkey Rock Area and other South Platte Crags" (that I wrote & published in 1984). This route ascends a shallow thin crack that diagonals right across a vertical face. After 25-30 feet, move straight up the face to finish up a short, tiny left-facing corner. I remember Bob falling 15 ft. onto a ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Zoo : Living with the Apes (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: I have climbed this route several times since 2000, when I first documented it in the first edition of Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide. The climb is not an easy .12a, & I usually do it on my second try after hanging the draws. I think it may have gotten a little harder at the crux past the 5th bolt, since part of a hold on the right side of the arĂȘte has broken off. I would compare it in difficulty to Kudjo Tranquilizer, that I originally rated .12a but is now rated .1... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Mud Shark (5.11d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: I returned & repeated this climb on Labor Day. It has been 10 years or more since I last climbed it. What a great pitch! I had climbed it several times since 1998. The shallow, leaning crack followed by the steep slab is techinical & insecure on perfect stone. I think I will stick with the .12a rating I gave it in my last guidebook to the area "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I". There are now a total of 12 clips, since one got added to the shared start. 7 bolt... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Joh... (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch with a fun vertical start, a hard crux in the middle & an interesting balancy stand up to finish. As for the grade, I will stick with the .11d rating this climb used to have. I am rarely one to down rate, but this climb is much less sustained & easier than "Awakenings"(.12a/b) or "Earth Voyage". It felt easier than "Mudshark" too. I have climbed this route four times since 2008, but I never seem to get it wired, because it's always more than a year between ascents. After a perfect re... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Invisible Touch (5.12-)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Tony, your interpretation of .12- is new & strange to me. After 43 years of climbing, I have always thought that .12a & .12- were exactly the same rating. 5.12 & .12b/c are the same rating. 5.12d & .12+ are the same rating. I think this climb is at least 5.12 or .12b/c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.11+)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Wow. What a huge amount of bullshit in the comment section & the grades. First, having done this route many times (& I am tall), this route feels like .11d at the 3rd bolt. I rated it .12a/b after watching numerous shorter climbers on the route. Most were stumped, a few suceeded with much more technical beta than my lunge move. Perhaps .11d/12a is a better rating. That said, it is a classic route for Boulder Canyon. There are 8 protection bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Hair Shirt (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: I believe I was the person that introduced Kaelen Williams to this crag & this route. I feel I should defend this climb & critique this post. First, calling these manufactured holds ugly is a matter of opinion & one I don't share. This climb is a masterpiece with big moves & fun holds to climb on. The large hueco in the ceiling looks natural. As for this route & others at the Clock Tower that have some manufactured holds, I have enjoyed many days of great training here. Where I don't usually adv... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : The Big Dipper (5.11a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Let's be real about the grade. Calling this .10a is just plain ridiculous. I have felt this climb could be rated .10d, & in areas where overhanging 5.10 is the norm, it probably would be. That said, I've watched many climbers struggle & hang going past 4th bolt up the short, left-facing crack corner. This lieback, fingerlock section is a real crux with overhanging moves leading up to it. There aren't many other continuously overhung 5.10 sport routes in Boulder Canyon. I have always felt that st... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Beaver Fever (5.11)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Wow! I never thought I'd see the direct start be rated 5.11 or even .11d. Are you sure you were on the correct route? Leave It To Beaver has a high 1st bolt that must be climbed up to from the left, above the starting ledge. This is followed by a hand traverse right past 2nd bolt to reach a small, left-facing corner. Beaver Fever is the 3 bolt direct start just right of Leave It To Beaver & just left of Mutant Overload (the black streak). It can either be done to start Leave It To Beaver or Muta... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Sky Cafe : Ride the Wind (5.10d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Glen, where I would rather NOT see the routes on this crag posted on this site, I can't stop you from posting it. That said you have crossed a line by using my route description from "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II" without my written permission that you do not have. This is copyright infringement; even though you did mention the source.
That was good. That said I don't want to see my route descriptions used on MP. Please write your own descripti... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Price For Fire (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Here is the first ascent info: F.A.: Ken Trout in January 1993. (5.12d A0). F.F.A.: Mark Rolofson on January 31,1993.

My friend, Ken bolted this superb, wildly overhung climb & then received a lot of shit from the bouldering elite for putting up a sport climb at THEIR bouldering area. Then he invited me to join him. We worked on it together for 3-4 days before I redpointed it. Ken had already done all the moves, so I owe him much credit.

Before redpointing it, one local had already unscrewed t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Tell-Tale Heart (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: This was the first sport route established at this crag in May 1995. I originally rated it .12a. For me, it is much easier than Plan B or Joyride. It was only after watching many good shorter climbers struggle & call it 5.12 that I decided to rate it .12b. Shorter climbers climb the crux differently making more moves. This route was the beginning of a long, wonderful summer of putting up new routes at the crag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: This year is the 20th anniversary of most sport routes at this crag, including the first ones I established in May 1995. These were Tell Tale Heart, Elanor, & Evermore. Beginning with my early guidebooks to the crag, I made some strong recommendations. First, the ledge approach is serious. Bringing young children or dogs warrants real caution. Put a harness on the dog & the kids. Better yet, go somewhere else. I have climbed much less at this crag, since I have had a dog. There are plenty of oth... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Nevermore (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: In response to Jay Samuelson not understanding the anchor placement: Evermore was established before Nevermore, & the anchor works good for it. Secondly, I did not want someone doing Tell Tale Heart to go to this anchor. Climbers can climb Evermore & Tell Tale Heart at the same time, but not if they mistakenly arrive at the same anchor. Thirdly, before drilling, I always hammer tap the rock to make sure it is solid & not hollow sounding. I can't remember if this could have a factor.
As for clean... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Terminal Velocity (5.11b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: One of my old favorite Eldo gear routes. The actual first ascent date was November 29, 1980. We originally did it as a 2 pitch climb, since there is a big ledge in the middle. I led the first pitch (5.11 R), & Alfredo Len led the second pitch up the dihedral (5.10). We later learned that Eric Doub had already led the second pitch in August 1980, via an easier, indirect start to avoid the 5.11 first pitch.
The upper dihedral can be climbed using holds on the arĂȘte to the right (5.10b) or climbed... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: This was the third sport route established at the crag in May 1995. I don't know how you can call it contrived or .12b/c. The final crux is the same as Nevermore, but getting to the last bolt presents an interesting dyno as well. After clipping 7th bolt, I make a big dyno with my right hand to the good hold to clip last bolt from. Yes, you could avoid this dyno by traversing more left & doing this section the same way as Nevermore (.12a), but it feels run out enough I have always done the dyno. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Nevermore (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: Definitely one of my all time favorites. Tell Tale Heart was the first sport route on the crag, followed by Elanor, then Evermore (the easier way to get to the same crux from Elanor), then Empire Of The Fenceless, then Flying Beast. After that, I put up Nevermore in July 1995. I had the crux move wired doing it on "Evermore" but fell just shy on the horizontal jug break for almost 5 days on Nevermore. I had to find a better way to dyno this crux. I finally redpointed it on day 6. After the first... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Hideout : Brat Slamet (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: The name of this route is Brat Slamet (not Slamit). I cleaned, bolted, & led the climb with a hang. F.A.: (5.12 A0) in April 2001. F.F.A.: Henry Lester on March 15, 2003. I belayed Henry, my friend & longtime climbing partner, on this desperate thin, shallow seam. It tweeked my right hand ring finger tendon badly. I was forced to stay on jugs for a couple months to heal it. I returned on January 10 2004 to finally redpoint it. We rated it .12c. It definitely earns its grade.

I have ignored Tayl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Wyoming Prairie Dogs (5.10a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Pretty funny! chipped!? Try dynamited up to 3rd bolt, to put the aqueduct in. Isn't it amazing how climbers worry about a possible chipped hold & ignore the greater impacts that we humans are creating. This route is a great addition to the crag. Interesting slab climbing on solid rock.


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