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Member Since: Jul 1, 2010
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Mark Rolofson

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Total Points: 372
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 335 | Routes 19 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 132 | Posts 3 | Stars 98 | Ratings 73
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Unfortunately this website doesn't have the .11d/12a option. For anybody 5 foot 7 inches or shorter, this route is easily .12a or b. It is height-dependent route. That said, for me the crux is more powerful than any section on Eleanor at Easter Rock (.11d), & I think it's as hard or harder than Golden Rose (a very soft .12a). I have climbed at the Clock Tower a few times every year since 1998, when I flashed this route. I have watched many people on it, & have never heard anyone call this climb ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Butt Luscious (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Wow. What a huge amount of bullshit in the comment section & the grades. First, having done this route many times (& I am tall), this route feels like .11d at the 3rd bolt. I rated it .12a/b after watching numerous shorter climbers on the route. Most were stumped, a few suceeded with much more technical beta than my lunge move. Perhaps .11d/12a is a better rating. That said, it is a classic route for Boulder Canyon. There are 8 protection bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Hair Shirt (5.12)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: I believe I was the person that introduced Kaelen Williams to this crag & this route. I feel I should defend this climb & critique this post. First, calling these manufactured holds ugly is a matter of opinion & one I don't share. This climb is a masterpiece with big moves & fun holds to climb on. The large hueco in the ceiling looks natural. As for this route & others at the Clock Tower that have some manufactured holds, I have enjoyed many days of great training here. Where I don't usually adv... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : The Big Dipper (5.11a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Let's be real about the grade. Calling this .10a is just plain ridiculous. I have felt this climb could be rated .10d, & in areas where overhanging 5.10 is the norm, it probably would be. That said, I've watched many climbers struggle & hang going past 4th bolt up the short, left-facing crack corner. This lieback, fingerlock section is a real crux with overhanging moves leading up to it. There aren't many other continuously overhung 5.10 sport routes in Boulder Canyon. I have always felt that st... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Beaver Fever (5.11)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Wow! I never thought I'd see the direct start be rated 5.11 or even .11d. Are you sure you were on the correct route? Leave It To Beaver has a high 1st bolt that must be climbed up to from the left, above the starting ledge. This is followed by a hand traverse right past 2nd bolt to reach a small, left-facing corner. Beaver Fever is the 3 bolt direct start just right of Leave It To Beaver & just left of Mutant Overload (the black streak). It can either be done to start Leave It To Beaver or Muta... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Sky Cafe : Ride the Wind (5.10d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 17, 2015

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Comments: Glen, where I would rather NOT see the routes on this crag posted on this site, I can't stop you from posting it. That said you have crossed a line by using my route description from "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II" without my written permission that you do not have. This is copyright infringement; even though you did mention the source.
That was good. That said I don't want to see my route descriptions used on MP. Please write your own descripti... more >>


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Price For Fire (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 2, 2015

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Comments: Here is the first ascent info: F.A.: Ken Trout in January 1993. (5.12d A0). F.F.A.: Mark Rolofson on January 31,1993.

My friend, Ken bolted this superb, wildly overhung climb & then received a lot of shit from the bouldering elite for putting up a sport climb at THEIR bouldering area. Then he invited me to join him. We worked on it together for 3-4 days before I redpointed it. Ken had already done all the moves, so I owe him much credit.

Before redpointing it, one local had already unscrewed t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Tell-Tale Heart (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: This was the first sport route established at this crag in May 1995. I originally rated it .12a. For me, it is much easier than Plan B or Joyride. It was only after watching many good shorter climbers struggle & call it 5.12 that I decided to rate it .12b. Shorter climbers climb the crux differently making more moves. This route was the beginning of a long, wonderful summer of putting up new routes at the crag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: This year is the 20th anniversary of most sport routes at this crag, including the first ones I established in May 1995. These were Tell Tale Heart, Elanor, & Evermore. Beginning with my early guidebooks to the crag, I made some strong recommendations. First, the ledge approach is serious. Bringing young children or dogs warrants real caution. Put a harness on the dog & the kids. Better yet, go somewhere else. I have climbed much less at this crag, since I have had a dog. There are plenty of oth... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Nevermore (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: In response to Jay Samuelson not understanding the anchor placement: Evermore was established before Nevermore, & the anchor works good for it. Secondly, I did not want someone doing Tell Tale Heart to go to this anchor. Climbers can climb Evermore & Tell Tale Heart at the same time, but not if they mistakenly arrive at the same anchor. Thirdly, before drilling, I always hammer tap the rock to make sure it is solid & not hollow sounding. I can't remember if this could have a factor.
As for clean... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Terminal Velocity (5.11b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 21, 2015

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Comments: One of my old favorite Eldo gear routes. The actual first ascent date was November 29, 1980. We originally did it as a 2 pitch climb, since there is a big ledge in the middle. I led the first pitch (5.11 R), & Alfredo Len led the second pitch up the dihedral (5.10). We later learned that Eric Doub had already led the second pitch in August 1980, via an easier, indirect start to avoid the 5.11 first pitch.
The upper dihedral can be climbed using holds on the arÍte to the right (5.10b) or climbed ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Evermore (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: This was the third sport route established at the crag in May 1995. I don't know how you can call it contrived or .12b/c. The final crux is the same as Nevermore, but getting to the last bolt presents an interesting dyno as well. After clipping 7th bolt, I make a big dyno with my right hand to the good hold to clip last bolt from. Yes, you could avoid this dyno by traversing more left & doing this section the same way as Nevermore (.12a), but it feels run out enough I have always done the dyno. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Nevermore (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: Definitely one of my all time favorites. Tell Tale Heart was the first sport route on the crag, followed by Elanor, then Evermore (the easier way to get to the same crux from Elanor), then Empire Of The Fenceless, then Flying Beast. After that, I put up Nevermore in July 1995. I had the crux move wired doing it on "Evermore" but fell just shy on the horizontal jug break for almost 5 days on Nevermore. I had to find a better way to dyno this crux. I finally redpointed it on day 6. After the first... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Hideout : Brat Slamet (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: The name of this route is Brat Slamet (not Slamit). I cleaned, bolted, & led the climb with a hang. F.A.: (5.12 A0) in April 2001. F.F.A.: Henry Lester on March 15, 2003. I belayed Henry, my friend & longtime climbing partner, on this desperate thin, shallow seam. It tweeked my right hand ring finger tendon badly. I was forced to stay on jugs for a couple months to heal it. I returned on January 10 2004 to finally redpoint it. We rated it .12c. It definitely earns its grade.

I have ignored Tayl... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Wyoming Prairie Dogs (5.10a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Pretty funny! chipped!? Try dynamited up to 3rd bolt, to put the aqueduct in. Isn't it amazing how climbers worry about a possible chipped hold & ignore the greater impacts that we humans are creating. This route is a great addition to the crag. Interesting slab climbing on solid rock.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Green Chile (5.11b/c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: This was the second route on the crag established on June 9, 2003. After Open Space Cowboy, June heated up, so we went to find the shade.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Open Space Cowboy (5.12a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: This was our first route on the crag & in Golden Gate. First ascent date was June 8, 2003. Always fun to repeat, but I keep cutting my left arm below 5th bolt unless I tape or wear a jacket.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Fin Arete (5.10b R)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 3, 2015

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Comments: Pretty cool seeing these old photos on MP of me & Terry Lien from February 1979 when we made the second ascent with Brian Smoot (the first ascentiinist). Thanks Brian for posting them. It was a very memorable route & day, plus a great intro to Little Cottonwood. Thanks for showing me around back then. Those were fun times.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Little Dude : Big Lebowsky (5.13b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: Monty, I deleted my last two comments. I suggest you do the same. Why? I feel we have digressed, & comments on this page should be about this route. Kevin has sent the route & thus earned the right to call it soft for the grade or downrate it if he chooses. I think you should post your YDS rating opinion after you have redpointed this route, rather than dish out broad insulting statements based on 4 of my many routes. I haven't redpointed this route either, so perhaps my opinion will change once... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 26, 2015

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Comments: Yes, there are two ways to climb this route. In September 2009, I redpointed this route & thought it was the easiest .12d I had ever done. My partner, Henry Lester, was working on this route moving onto the arÍte above the roof, at 6th bolt, & then following the arÍte. I tried this briefly, & it seemed quite hard. So I followed the seam up the face. Just past 7th bolt, the short, discontinuous hand crack provides a nice rest before the crux traversing left to the arÍte. Being tall, I am able to ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Pterodactyl Traverse (5.12d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 25, 2015

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Comments: In August 2000, I actually did more than just equip this climb. I redpointed to where I was able to grab the right anchor (.12c). My intent was not to stop here but to traverse more left to the jug on the lip of the giant overhang. Here the anchor can be clipped. So I took the right anchor bolt out & put a new left anchor bolt in. The original left bolt becoming the right, so you couldn't end the route this way. I then added the last protection bolt which is a hard clip. The last moves to the ju... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Buddha Belly (5.13a)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for your analysis, Train 4 Life. If my memory serves me correctly, Peter Beal made the second ascent in Summer 2000 & told me that he thought it was solid 5.13b. Obviously he changed his opinion, which is valid. What makes it valid or not is why. I don't know the answer. Did he return & repeat the route & decide it wasn't that hard? Or did he just decide to agree with others that were calling it .13a? In any case, it's a great climb that delivers a great pump without hurting your fingers.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for your comment, Jack. Bob's book is just wrong about climbing the crack on the upper part (pitch 2) of the climb & so is the route description posted on this page of MP. The crack is Bong Session. I have climbed both routes, & I love Pipe Dreams. Please refer to the earlier guidebooks such as Richard Rossiter's or my "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". The climb ascends the face which has some nice pockets. I really like this part of the route.

Yes,... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Major Dude (5.12c/d)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 14, 2015

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Comments: Pretty funny. I'd have to totally disagree. I find this to be the easiest of all the five hard routes (5.12c/d to 5.13a) on Dude's Throne. The fifth being the variation to Major Dude's finish that you are asking about. That info plus the linkup can be found in my guidebook "Golden Rock Climbs". To my knowledge, Vaino Kodas is the only one who has done it.
As for Major Dude, it was our first hard route on the crag. John Flunker sent it twice on the same day when he made the first redpoint & was r... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Mutant Overload (5.12c)
By: Mark Rolofson When: May 10, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch with a few manufactured holds. There are two ways to do the crux at 6th bolt. The more direct way using the undercling for the left hand then dynoing to the jug with the right has always felt quite hard (.12d). This is how I climbed it numerous times over the years. In 2012, I figured out I could traverse left another move to to big sidepull flake & then reach the jug. Then way is less obvious but easier to execute (.12c).


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