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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Mark Roberts

Point Rank: # 714
Total Points: 1,071
Last Year: 103
Last 30 Days: 12
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Roberts been climbing?










Contributions


All 719 | Routes 69 | Areas 13 | Photos 7 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 139 | Posts 19 | Stars 324 | Ratings 144
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Piece of Pie (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Fun jamming, too bad the business section was over so quickly. I thought I was going to have to do some bushwacking through the salal, but found the climbing diverges earlier than it appeared from the ground. The bottom protects well with a #1 C4 and some smaller pieces.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Triage Arete (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Those bolts sure looked closer together from the ground. Watch yourself between the third and fourth bolt - ledge-fall potential.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : The Solarium
By: Mark Roberts When: 5 days ago

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Exit from 3rd Peak Gully to the Solarium
Exit from 3rd Peak Gully to the Solarium


Finding your way to the Solarium can be a challenge, so I've included here a picture of the exit from the 3rd Peak gully to the Solarium.

After you scramble up, you'll need to hike another ten minutes up or so to actually get to any of the routes, but once you've made it out of the 3rd gully successfully you should be able to figure the rest out.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Harry's Crack (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: Splendid jamming. I'd give it four stars if the crack started on the ground.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Old and Serious (V3)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 4, 2016

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Comments: Very fun, good variety of techniques. I was afraid it would be V3 slab moves at the top, but the slab was pretty forgiving.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roberts When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Hey Ryan, I don't actually think that's the line. It looks like you've got it finishing up HMW, but I think it actually goes up that white arete to the right.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Ultimate Everything (5.10-)
By: Mark Roberts When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: I think the first pitch is as hard as the last (10- dyke traverse) pitch. Also, extend your pieces generously on P1 and keep enough runners to be able to extend everything past the bolts. Once you mantle into that gully the pitch is much easier, but there's still 30m of climbing to the chains. The dyke traverse pitch has one tough & technical section under the bolt, but then is quite juggy and forgiving if you still have gas in the tank.

This route is like Angel's Crest in that, while some pitc... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Calculus Crack (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: This can make a very fast route to the top of the Apron with a few linked pitches and a healthy number of slings:

P1: (From the ground) Link the root-pulling jungle pitches to the bolted anchors on the left below Calculus proper. Place as little as possible and extend everything with runners. Rope stretcher - advise your belayer to stand as high as possible on the pedestal when running low on rope. (5.8 ~70m)

P2: Romp up through easy climbing and build a gear belay just below the finger crack ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Jingus the Cat (5.10)
By: Mark Roberts When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: Decided to put my money where my mouth is and take care of the state of this route. We made it a spring project to clear out all the soil in the dirtaneering start that sustained the dastardly prickle bushes.

Before:
Rock Climbing Photo: Jingus Before
Jingus Before


After:
Rock Climbing Photo: Jingus After
Jingus After


This adds about 15-20 feet of low-5th climbing to the route, but you can plug some gear if you're squeamish. We also cut a more clear trail, added some chain anchors, scrubbed the lichen from the feet and the vegetable matter from the crack... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : Old Style (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Good jams, eats bomber gear. Climbs like the first pitch of Flex Capacitor, but dries out quicker.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : Quagmire Crack (5.10)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Epic line! Another amazing moderate on the Lower Malamute. Hard moves right off the anchor, the route offers steep, sustained and challenging movement until a no-hands rest on a block feature mid-route. Pumpy. After the block there's some fun flake climbing, then occasional hard sections interspersed with adequate rests.

Besides the obviously amazing position of the route, what stood out for me was the amount of unique movement and problem solving required. The section before the mid-route shak... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Totally Clips (5.10b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Really fun. The bottom was mostly low angle face climbing, but the top provided some great pure friction moves to keep you honest. Tons of friction.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Vector (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: The 50m pitch is absolutely deluxe - longer and much more fun than St Vitus, which will take the same rack. Slammer hands to double-fist stacks for 50m, all at a cruisey 5.8 grade. Took Andy's gear recommendation and felt very comfy - had a big selection of gear for the belay (I backed the bolt up with a bomber #2 and #3 C4.)

Seems the original p2 is a little grown over since, based on these coments, most people must take the 5.10 corner variation. It felt like solid 5.10 to me, and... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Catch Me (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Found this line a little contrived. You're meant to stay on the bolt line and then follow the arches, but good protection and holds from adjacent routes are often within arm's reach. Would recommend Catch Me Quicker over this route.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Astrologger (5.11b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Dec 5, 2015

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Comments: What is up with that gear recommendation?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : High Plains Drifter (5.11c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments:


What's the beta on anchors on this route? Are there bolted anchors or gear anchors? Is it possible to climb the first pitch only and rap down to finish on Angel's Crest? I heard the 11c pitch is tough and from the sounds of things it doesn't sound very aid-able - I'd like to try this route but am concerned about leaving a bunch of gear if we can't make the upper crux work.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Rampage (5.8+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Great quality cracks. Finished directly up Christa's Revenge, since it seemed like a more natural line than the traverse. Maybe that traverse section holds the crux because what I climbed felt more like 5.7.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Papoose : Hanging Gardens (5.10+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: The missing bolt Geoff mentions had been replaced.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Splat (5.10d)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: The bottom sequence may look improbable at the grade, but holds in the right places just seem to appear out of nowhere. Cool features, worth doing.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Step 'n Stump (5.7)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: Fun stuff, wide technique without wide gear. Took a #4, saved it and never ended up placing it. I think 5.7 is sandbagging; the move over the initial bulge is at least 5.9. After that it's a romp - 5.7 butterflies and hand-fist stacks.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : St. Vitus' Dance (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: I followed my gear beta from above yesterday and was woefully overburdened. Nick's gear recommendations are solid. I placed two #1s, two #2s, two #3s and two #4s, spaced out with other, much smaller gear. Could have done without the second #4 as there's a bomber 0.4 placement a foot above where I placed it. It was nice to make a gear belay at the top of that pitch with all those leftover #3s and #4s though.

If you really are maxed out with 5.9 hands, fi... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Xenolith Dance (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: A bit of a runout after the last bolt, but on easy ground. If you're queasy you could punch in some gear in the end of Manana - maybe a .4 Camalot? That's just eyeballing though.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Dora's Delight (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Slim, one runout above the only place to bust your ankles. I'd assume it was bolted on lead by the nature of the bolting.

Also, tie a knot in your rope before lowering. It's a long pitch, you might need to lower off into the gully on the right if you don't have a 79m.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Golden Labs (5.9+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route, immaculate stone with excellent friction - crystals the size of your knuckles. The crux is not where it appears, the roof was solid hand jams throughout (but I've got big hands - the business is tight #3s). Surprisingly pumpy climbing to the chains. First class.

Good gear recommendation from Andy. I'd say doubles from .5-#3 Camalot, but you could place a .4 at the end. Also takes large nuts well. Extending your gear at the beginning can eliminate the risk of ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Self Abuse (5.10)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: Added quicklinks to the anchor bolts yesterday, you can rap easily now.


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