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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Mark Roberts

Point Rank: # 736
Total Points: 992
Last Year: 45
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Roberts been climbing?










Contributions


All 647 | Routes 65 | Areas 13 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 126 | Posts 16 | Stars 292 | Ratings 130
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Astrologger (5.11)
By: Mark Roberts When: Dec 5, 2015

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Comments: What is up with that gear recommendation?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : High Plains Drifter (5.11c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments:


What's the beta on anchors on this route? Are there bolted anchors or gear anchors? Is it possible to climb the first pitch only and rap down to finish on Angel's Crest? I heard the 11c pitch is tough and from the sounds of things it doesn't sound very aid-able - I'd like to try this route but am concerned about leaving a bunch of gear if we can't make the upper crux work.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Rampage (5.8+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Great quality cracks. Finished directly up Christa's Revenge, since it seemed like a more natural line than the traverse. Maybe that traverse section holds the crux because what I climbed felt more like 5.7.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Papoose : Hanging Gardens (5.10+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: The missing bolt Geoff mentions had been replaced.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Splat (5.10d)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: The bottom sequence may look improbable at the grade, but holds in the right places just seem to appear out of nowhere. Cool features, worth doing.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Step 'n Stump (5.7)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: Fun stuff, wide technique without wide gear. Took a #4, saved it and never ended up placing it. I think 5.7 is sandbagging; the move over the initial bulge is at least 5.9. After that it's a romp - 5.7 butterflies and hand-fist stacks.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : St. Vitus' Dance (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: I followed my gear beta from above yesterday and was woefully overburdened. Nick's gear recommendations are solid. I placed two #1s, two #2s, two #3s and two #4s, spaced out with other, much smaller gear. Could have done without the second #4 as there's a bomber 0.4 placement a foot above where I placed it. It was nice to make a gear belay at the top of that pitch with all those leftover #3s and #4s though.

If you really are maxed out with 5.9 hands, fi... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Xenolith Dance (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: A bit of a runout after the last bolt, but on easy ground. If you're queasy you could punch in some gear in the end of Manana - maybe a .4 Camalot? That's just eyeballing though.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Dora's Delight (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Slim, one runout above the only place to bust your ankles. I'd assume it was bolted on lead by the nature of the bolting.

Also, tie a knot in your rope before lowering. It's a long pitch, you might need to lower off into the gully on the right if you don't have a 79m.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Golden Labs (5.9+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: Awesome route, immaculate stone with excellent friction - crystals the size of your knuckles. The crux is not where it appears, the roof was solid hand jams throughout (but I've got big hands - the business is tight #3s). Surprisingly pumpy climbing to the chains. First class.

Good gear recommendation from Andy. I'd say doubles from .5-#3 Camalot, but you could place a .4 at the end. Also takes large nuts well. Extending your gear at the beginning can eliminate the risk of ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Self Abuse (5.10)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: Added quicklinks to the anchor bolts yesterday, you can rap easily now.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : Pinky Locks (5.7+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: Good first gear lead if you like the approach.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Snorter (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Found this one significantly more challenging and less pleasant than its counterpart. Awkward.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Skullduggery (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 8, 2015

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Comments: This crack is rad, but suggesting a standard rack puts you in a no-fall zone through quite a bit of strenuous climbing. Only fifteen feet up from the bolt can you even place a #5, and if you blew it you'd be having a bad day.

If you climb this without a #6 or Valley Giant I expect rope is only a decoration for you, or you think your ankles are in too few pieces.

Dope route though.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Dreams of Passion (5.11b PG13)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: As of July 6 2015 the second highest bolt was completely stripped, just spinning in its hole.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : Clean Crack (5.11b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Still off limits, yes.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Black Butterfly (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: May 24, 2015

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Comments: I didn't think about building a gear anchor, I just kept climbing until I got to the bolts above Veiled Illusion. I recommend this unless you're doing a big top-roping session, in which case a gear anchor directly over the route may make more sense.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Bulletheads East (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: May 9, 2015

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Comments: Quality. The Bulletheads in general offer some really lovely granite and BHE is no exception.

I always find the 5.9 pitch quite tricky, especially managing rope drag. I've climbed it three times and can't seem to work out where the gear should go to avoid it. Bring lots of slings.

The roof on p2 and the sparse section that follows provides the mental crux for me, but the thin and non-locking fingers above are probably the actual crux. 5.10.

Highlight of the route was the p3 fingers pitch, b... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Something Short (5.11a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Wonderful splitter, packs a ton of climbing into 40ft going through all the sizes - tips, fingers, hands then rings/tight hands.

I'm not usually one for upgrading, but I think it's fair in this case. Every bit as pumpy as Gord's Block (another short-but-stout SB 10d/11a), but a little more technical. Cranking those ringlocks in full pump-mode put me in quite a state.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : Hand Jive (5.10)
By: Mark Roberts When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: No, I agree Geoff. I climbed it again recently and found my own beta lacking, .5s and .75s are the order of the day.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Good photo, but would recommend turning it upside down.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Flex Capacitor (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Got on this again yesterday. The first pitch still felt insecure and engaging for the grade, but then I'm not really any better at slabby feet than I was the last time. Bomber protection though, and you're never too far from a fingerlock you could hang your body weight from.

The second pitch has some really amazing climbing: very positive holds, excellent protection and pleasant, continuous movement. Highly recommended if you're in the area and you've already climbed Exasperator.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Funarama (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Can definitely be protected safely at the top. I was surprised I kept getting opportunities to place higher gear. I placed a bomber yellow Metolius, but then a few feet higher squeaked in a grey 00 Metolius - the yellow will keep you off the ledge though. The topout moves are easier than they look.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Alexis Cracks (5.6)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: All good fun, but the diagonal line is the best. Follow the diagonal all the way to the top for full value.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: It depends how you look at things. If you're counting the two pitches you climbed that take you to the ledge, then yes. Technically those pitches aren't part of St. Vitus though, so some would consider this the first pitch of St. Vitus Proper.


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