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Member Since: Oct 13, 2009
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 709
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All (474) | Routes (56) | Areas (12) | Photos (3) | Comments (91) | Posts (15) | Stars (201) | Ratings (96)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unnamed 10- (5.10-)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Why was he ashamed?


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Shortcut (5.4)
By: Mark Roberts When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: Why are you commenting on your own entries? You can just edit them.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Jingus the Cat (5.10)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: It's getting pretty overgrown up here, or was a few months ago. It was so unpleasant that we didn't end up even climbing this rig, the mud caked on my shoes by the time I started laybacking was prohibitive. Leave your machete, bring a shovel.

On an unrelated note, last year a piece of rock pulled off near the crux. Apparently hasn't affected the difficulty much, but makes clipping the bolt harder. squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&>>>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Catch You (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: Yes, Catch You in the Bourdon Guide, Catch Me Quicker in the McLane guide.

3 Bolts, with gear in between (fingers mostly). The first flare after the first bolt is the place where you need to worry about having the right gear to keep you off the deck. I placed two blue metolius in this flare, one at the beginning and one at the end before launching out to the next bolt. Both looked bomber to me. As mentioned above, if you have offsets then this may be the place for them.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Catch Me Quick (5.10b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: As described, this route is listed as "Catch Me Quicker" in the Bourdon guide and "Catch Me Quick" in the McLane guide.

I also placed an orange Metolius at the crux, but wasn't happy with it. Two lobes were fully engaged, two were flaring. If I fell, the gear popped and I'd decked, I wouldn't be mad at the gear for it. On my way down I tried some nuts in that slot, found a WC #8 placed sideways was the only thing I had on my rack that would inspire confidence.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Peaches and Cream (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: This entry is quite misleading. For starters, it's not a straight slab climb. It climbs up the corner to the right of Burger's and Fries (such that you begin on a face-height pedestal). More importantly, this corner takes gear. Finger-sized gear to be specific, and if you didn't bring any you'd add extra ways to deck from this climb.

Finger-sized gear, 2 protection bolts (quite well-spaced) and a two-bolt anchor.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Ugly American (aka Ugly And... (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: I thought the crux was the bottom ten feet personally. Good climb, interesting positions and bomber hand jams. Don't know why it doesn't see more traffic. Things are starting to overgrow up top, still climbable though. The upper mantle is frustrating though, like there used to be a crack on top but it got filled with kitty litter. Bomber gear at your waist helps to pull this insecure move.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Flying Circus (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Locker fingers, bomber gear, sustained width. Get some.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Coogee Crack (5.10c)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: No surprises here. I agree with slim, good to do if you're waiting for something, but too short to be a destination. Fun though, short and sweet. Easier than Manana.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Manana (5.10b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: So fun! Techy, sustained and thoughtful for an honest 25m or so, then as the angle kicks back it's a fun romp with jugs and locks for another 25m. The business section climbs like the EPB variation of Skywalker, but harder. I recommend singles from grey Metolius to #3 Camalot, doubles from 0.4 to. 75, and some RPs to supplement your regular nuts. Also thought the route length is underestimated here, closer to 55m I reckon.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Caboose (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: I haven't climbed Apron Strings, Split Pillar or Split Beaver yet, but I found Caboose significantly harder than Arrowroot, SM's Delight and Hand Jive. Also harder than Kangaroo Crack I think.

Quite thuggish and insecure. Locks flare, the inner crack feels remarkably smooth when you need friction.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Jungle Warfare (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Anchor update: There is now a two-bolt anchor above the bulge, before the 5.7 handcrack part of pitch one. I suppose this was put in because, as I understand, many people break p1 into two because of rope drag after the initial cruxy section.

In addition, the tree that used to separate p1 proper from p2 has been chopped. This is the section right before the slippery polished bit of p2. While it's probably a good idea for route cleaning purposes, it's not exactly an ideal gear belay spot...ther... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Skywalker (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 6, 2013

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Comments: Tried the EPB variation today. Very fun, generously bolted and low in the grade. Much more interesting climbing than the last three pitches of Skywalker.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Reacharound (5.9+)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Realest 5.9 I've ever climbed.

I agree with Hans' gear beta, despite appearances it does protect well with a standard rack, though I took and placed a #5 and was glad to have it.

You know you're at the right place if you find yourself staring up at a gaping maw, muttering "there's no way that's 5.9."

For a fun variation, stick to the overhanging handcrack at the beginning.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cardhu Crack (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Pleasant surprise, this route a great complement to Klahanie Crack. Short distinct crux where the crack crosses the dyke, cruisey elsewhere.

A 70m just barely reaches the base when rapping. For top-roping you might want to think about extending the anchor a bit. Don't worry about the rope lengths too much though, as the first five meters are low 5th. Very down-climbable.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Klahanie Crack (5.7)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: Hilariously secure climbing, you can just cruise on this thing. Thinner than it looks from the ground. You could place some #2 or #3 Camalots if you wanted in those pods, but I found if there's a pod at your face you might as well climb a bit higher so your foot's in it, and place from there. I've found a rack of 2 .5s, 2 .75s and 1 #1 Camalot is sufficient.

Also, if your rack is slim and your fear is high you should know that the back of the crack often accepts smaller cams,... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Witch Doctor's Apprenti... (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jun 21, 2013

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Comments: Ha, no, you just need to know that I didn't always lead 10c on gear, there was a time I was maxed out at 5.9.

But maybe the thing you ned to know is that the climb eats gear? (to my memory, at least)


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: A. There's no date on the photo.

B.


C. How is access going to get worse?


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Clean Crack (5.11b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: Spectacular. The logical progression to the second pitch of Exasperator; a little steeper, a little more sustained, and a section of fingers and rings between the tips/smearing and thin hands sections.

Gear ran the gamut. Starts on small nuts and grey metolius, then widens consistently up to gold c4s. You could even plug a #4 at the top if you wanted, where the climbing gets a little more physical.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Sphinx'ter Quits (5.8)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Old school spacing without being terrifying. Very reasonable and quite fun. Don't miss the nut placement between the first two bolts and risk groundfall like I did.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Seam of Destinty (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: I'm not used to placing that many micronuts in a row. Spooky route for me, but they probably would have held. Also, you can get a few cams in every now and then to supplement the nuts. For the record, the seam is smaller than a grey metolius.

Fun route though. Didn't use the seam that much because it's so thin, found the route was almost like gear-protected face climbing.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Joe's Crack (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: The topout gives the route its grade, I think. Honest 5.9. The crack was straight-forward with lots of rests.

Also, there are bolts at the top now with quicklinks attached.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Paul's Crack (5.10a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Fun stuff, easy first 10a. Fingers and tricky feet for the first 20 feet with a short crux where the finger crack ends and the features begin. You can protect these moves with a blue metolius at your knees and nothing above you. You'll be rewarded with beautiful jugs after a few moves though, so just punch it.

Crack seperates into two, both breaking left but one above the other. I found better pro and holds in the upper crack, but make sure to throw a few slings on your gear before breaking lef... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Kangaroo Corner (5.11a)
By: Mark Roberts When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: Went for the redpoint on this and Flying Circus (10a) yesterday. Got this one, hung on FC. I don't know if that tells you more about my endurance (terrible, and worst in January) than the grading, but thought I'd throw that out there. I've never redpointed a 10d trad route (yet) either, so some more food for thought. I'm not grading it because I'm not too familiar with crack grades beyond solid 5.10, but I'm thinking this has to be soft.

Anyhow, bomber small nuts for the first part, then bomber... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : SM's Delight (5.10b)
By: Mark Roberts When: Oct 13, 2012

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Comments: Agree that it's tricky, thought the pro was straight forward though. Pumpy on insecure feet, but it's only hard for the first half.

Gear recommendation here is pretty weird too. Take gear from blue metolius to #3 Camalot, plus some small nuts up to finger size. You could get away with yellow metolius to #2 Camalot though. The thin stuff you can see from the ground, but once you pass the crux all the appropriate pro for the next 12m ranges from .75-#3. The grade drops dramatica... more >>


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