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Rock Climbing Photo: Kor Roof on a windy day. Hard to tell which way is...


Member Since: Oct 3, 2009
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Mark P Thomas

Mark P Thomas
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Point Rank: # 3,325
Total Points: 178
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 50
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark P Thomas been climbing?










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All 919 | Routes | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 115 | Posts 67 | Stars 414 | Ratings 310
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Brother : Positively 4th Street (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 13, 2012

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Comments: A nice, soft 5.9. You can protect the roof very well.

No ants in the bay tree this time. However they were everywhere at the gear belay! They were also all over the small tree atop P3 (5.4) in the Reid guide.

We topped out today, and I'd say the pitch after the 5.4 is a nice 5.6 hand to finger crack with an interesting hummock mantel move to finish. Beware that the Reid guide info of 2 pitches of 5.7 is not correct! We did 3 long pitches, with some scrambling in between. It is very difficult t... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Brother : Camp 4 Wall : Cid's Embrace (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: I found the upper section to be harder and more interesting than the lower section. I don't see why people stop after the first 60 ft! I found Lancelot to be less burly than this route, so I recommend climbing Lancelot as a warmup.

The upper section doesn't really have a double crack system, but rather, more of a wide flake that divides the chimney into two wide, wavy slots. The flake seemed too rounded for liebacking, so I stemmed and climbed the right slot as an offwidth. Wear long sleeves or... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Brother : Camp 4 Wall : Lancelot (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Loose rock is not a problem on this route. The start has some loose flakes, but you can take the next corner over and step back into the system higher up to avoid it. Apart from the start, there is just a loose chockstone at the beginning of the unexpected challenge. You can pull on it, just don't yank out on it.

Great route overall!

Be wary on the rappels if you're using doubles. The current anchor allows the rope tip to snag on a chockstone at the top just before it pulls through the rings.... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 18 - Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 26, 2012

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Comments: Holy big hands Batman! I have to start with hand stacking, and it only gets wider from there! Great chicken suit, btw.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 22 - Five and Dime Cliff : Inner Reaches (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: The first pitch ascends the left side of a fractured tower. Does anyone know what the right side goes at? You can merge with the 5.7 route at the 'cave' section, and it looks pretty interesting.

A #6 BD Cam can be helpful for protecting the earlier squeeze on P1 until you can reach inside deep enough to place a small cam in a seam. Bring 1-2 #5s for P1 pro. You can break this up into 2 pitches and set up a belay inside the cave (I accidentally did this as I wasn't sure when the pitc... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variat... (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 24, 2011

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Comments: According to the Reid guide this variation is actually a route called "Dynamic Doubles" with FA credit given to Dan & Sue McDevitt in 1991.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Brother : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Diversions (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 20, 2011

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Comments: Maybe the guide should have clarified a rack ranging "down" to 3 inches :-o


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area : Stone Groove (5.10b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: Cruxes were a bit easier than Lunatic Fringe, but this route felt much more sustained and insecure on the jams.

The top anchors can be reached by a fun 5.9 variation around the corner to the right that is worth doing in its own right (I'd give it 2-3 stars). Bring pro through #4 BD C4 and be prepared for some sustained & steep jamming, with occasional surprise stems to keep things reasonably easy. There is a little loose rock that is easy to avoid, and a fun lieback on a hollow flake (1-2... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area : The Remnant-Left Side (5.10b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: Would be worth 3 stars if the route & base weren't so dirty. Very physical route, which can either be mostly liebacked or also incorporate some OW technique (e.g. I cammed my right leg in to assist with the lower liebacking after turning the first roof).

Unless perhaps you can start the route as squeeze chimney, you have to climb a ways on pretty burly terrain before you could even get a #6 4CU in, though a crash pad might be helpful for the start.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area : The Remnant-Right Side (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: After the first 10-15 ft of chimneying you can place a #6 BD C4, which you can slide most of the rest of the way up the route. I left a #5 BD C4 at the entry to the squeeze, removed the #6 there and replaced it above the squeeze for more pushin'. A #4 BD C4 can be nice to protect the final moves exiting the squeeze and reaching the anchor.

Bring long slings for a good extension for setting up a TR. The same anchor works well for TRing The Remnant, Left, which is also a g... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Brother : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Do (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: What's with the hand stacks? The flare felt too tight and deep for me to get any stacks. I just couldn't get both hands deep enough into the crack. Better to side pull crimp on the inside crack and other features until you can sidepull on a jam in the inside crack. Careful foot stacking on the flare brings you out OK. Once your feet are past the blocks in the pod, it seemed to climb well as a squeeze chimney.

A #6 BD C4 is all you need for the bottom half, then a #4 BD C4 can be lef... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Brother : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Diversions (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 13, 2011

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Comments: P1 (5.6-5.7): Great chimney. Don't bother trying to place pro. It's futile and the chimney is pretty secure, although a spot for the first 10 ft might keep things safer. After this you go sideways enough that you'll only fall/slide into the chimney instead of out of it. You can place a #5 Camalot or a #2 Camalot in the flake at the very end, but these pieces only protect the exit from the pitch.

Do this pitch the right way for wide leading training and bring all your wide gear for ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variat... (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: The easiest way to get to the base of the crack is to go up some ledges on the right (5.5).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area : Reed's Pinnacle Regular Rou... (5.9) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 7, 2011

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Comments: Funny, left-side in seemed better to me. Fun traverse!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Babble On (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 7, 2011

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Comments: Where do you cut right to get to the Boneheads bolt anchors? I could never find a traverse that looked easier than 5.10a (Then again I suck at face climbing :-) )so I trusted the tree - this time. Slings are all stiff and crunchy. I was really tempted to leave a sling but I gave a good bounce test and it seemed OK for the time being.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: For pitch 3 you can place a #2 Camalot behind a detached flake halfway to the second (now first) bolt for psych pro :-) It's really not too bad getting up to the first remaining bolt (cl. 3). It looks far but from the last ledge you can barely clip it. It looks to me like the missing bolt was only reachable from the same ledge, so I don't really think the missing bolt adds any danger to the pitch.

Two interesting things to consider about the summit pitch:

1. The summit cap sounds pretty... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : 24 Unknown (5.9+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Climb the 5.6 OW on the right side of the block for more fun. The crux on that one is entering the OW. #6 Camalots are the only thing needed for protection.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Twin Cracks (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Anyone know about that second pitch? It looks enticing - especially climbing the OW variation behind the flake, assuming you can protect it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Phallus : The Phallus (5.7 A2+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: Considering the Park's restrictions on pitons now, does anyone know if this route has been done clean? Clean rating & rack?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: Call me silly, but I found P2 to be a good deal harder than P1. P1 was scarier until you've protected after the step-across, but otherwise, I wonder how P2 gets a lower rating? Superb climb and excellent for every foot of it to the top of the last pitch!

In addition too, linking P1 & P2, with 70m doubles we easily linked P3 & P4. It could possibly work with a 60m single if you are smart with your pro placements on the first part of P4 and don't mind running that part out.

BTW, my 5.8 rating is... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Bay Tree Crack (5.6)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: With 70m doubles I easily did this on 1 long pitch from the ground. A 60m might work if you're careful with rope drag.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Swan Slab Gully (5.6)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: With a 70m rope the first 2 pitches link nicely :-) Though hard to follow at times, there is a climbers trail that cuts through the brush above and down a gully to the West.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Super Slide (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: Great linkup with Trial by Fire to avoid the boring approach pitch. Lower section is a bit dirty & forgettable but the final 5.9 section is SWEET!

P4 & the belay above was pouring with water when I did the route this May. P5 was dry at the crux though. Sunshine did manage to burn off the water on the route.

On Trial by Fire my second noticed a grapefruit-sized rock fall near him and it was NOT from a climber above.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Trial By Fire (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 7, 2011

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Comments: Harder than it looks! Bring a gear sling (for convenience) & wide gear (I placed 2 #4 & #5 4CUs & 1 #3 that barely worked). 2nd pitch linkup to SS is fun and not too dirty. I found it reasonable to step left from the chockstone left and cross a face to a crack system to bypass the first 'roof'. At the second 'roof' I cut left and found a tree with rap slings and enough spare rope to get to the base of P2 on Superslide in one pitch.

I highly recommend linking this route up with... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : The Surprise (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: Fell at the .10a crux when a crimper flake broke off. Something not too common on a route in the Valley! Apparently this route doesn't get climbed a lot :-) Really fun last 2 pitches though. 1st pitch was dirty & forgettable.


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