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Rock Climbing Photo: Kor Roof on a windy day. Hard to tell which way is...


Member Since: Oct 3, 2009
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
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Mark P Thomas
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Total Points: 180
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 926 | Routes | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 117 | Posts 67 | Stars 418 | Ratings 311
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Russell : Mithril Dihedral (5.9+) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: Is it really that easy to lieback that section? Or am I just that weird?

To me it seemed easiest to jam it straight in with some stemming in the corner for most of the way, then stem and jam into the next crack on climber's right (behind) to finish. However, I didn't place pro in the next crack, so my follower blazed straight up the flake, liebacking.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 08 - Bishop Pass and Evolut... : Mt. Goode : North Buttress (5.9) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 19, 2012

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Comments: I actually found this more helpful than the SuperTopo topo in many ways. Thanks for the great photo topo!

P3 & P4 distances are a little off. I managed to link them with a 70m rope and had about 10 ft of rope left, so combined they should be about 220' to a great ledge.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 04 - Ritter and the Minaret... : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: Direct start is 5.9 and really not much harder than some of the cruxes higher up. Way too easy for the 5.10a that Croft gives it. Really fun, clean and worth doing. Frankly, we found the technical crux to be a move right off the belay on one of the last 5.8 pitches higher up. The route is stout enough that if you're strong and fast enough to do the route solidly, you should be able to handle the direct start, so don't skip it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 C1)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: This is still on the list to climb, but . . .

I walked up to the start of the route last weekend for a good look, and I think you need more than just a standard desert rack (unless nuts are part of that). I'm pretty sure you'd need rivet hangers or nuts to use for the bolt ladder? I saw bolt heads but no hangers. Looks like fun!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9+)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: P1 - First chimney isn't that bad if you go all the way inside. When the slickness becomes a problem, just grab the inside corner edge (where the other chimney intersects) and jam your foot in the crack on the outside corner of the two intersecting chimneys. Ratchet-ratchet.

P2 - 2 guidebooks descriptions & topos talked about 2 cracks, so I was confused with seeing 3 options. I tried the middle crack, which was a tricky & wide #4 Camalot Crack. After I saw my cam slide down the crack as I... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Binge and Purge (5.11b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: Gave up trying to fit through the chimney on this one. No need to lieback the outside, though. You can leg bar the inside leg & chimney/stem with the outside leg, and work up the chickenwing until you're high enough to grab the knobby corner. Press both hands tight on that and do a mantle! Upper OW is fun & straightforward armbars & heel-toes. Some cheater holds near the end make the final overhanging bit pretty reasonable.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: 5.10c? Most of this route was tight for my hands, but not .10c tight. I got tired in the roof and hung out on hand & foot jams to rest before continuing up. No way I see myself doing that at the crux on a .10c!

To me the roof seemed easier than the crux move to the pedestal on Super Crack but harder than the main event of Super Crack, which for me was comfortable cupped hands.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Wavy Gravy (5.10) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: Where's the tape marking?! Is that on route?!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Tilted Mitten, Right Side (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: The 5.9 option for P1 is interesting, though a bit dirty. Climb an awkward lieback jam that quickly becomes an bit of an offwidth (Bring a #5 Camalot to slide up this part). I found it best to stay left-side in and you find some features on your right to work with. Continue up to where it levels out and thin lieback around the corner to gain the belay to start P2. Gear at the lieback is a bit suspect.

The P2 OW crux can be protected by pushing a #5 Camalot, though it is pretty unst... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Tilted Mitten, Left Side (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: It looks like you can avoid the bad pitch and step over at the tree by taking the 5.9 variation to the Right Side and staying on the flake/ledge rather than liebacking up to P2 of the Right Side. A little dirty, but not too bad and has some interesting OWish moves.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Ro... (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for adding the nut! That anchor is a little sketchy. 5.8 OW was pretty fun & the summit is really cool.

Also, this climb gets a lot of shade so it is good on a hot day. Last weekend there is a nice snowmelt waterfall next to the Mitten, which was very nice to splash in once the sun started to shine on us.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Three Brothers Area : Camp 4 Wall : Secret Storm (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Definitely use a belay on the approach pitch. I'd call it 5.4-5.5 with loose dirt & bushwacking. It kind of sucks, but the real pitch is worth the effort. Make sure to stay further right than you think. Don't take the midway ledge across but hug the wall and keep going up until you reach a rapp anchor off of the tree.

There isn't that much loose rock, though the top belay anchor is a little unnerving as it is two very old bolts backed up by webbing slung through a very hollow knifeblade flake. ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 17, 2012

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Comments: You sure got my attention. I couldn't believe there would be so many beta posts over just 1 month! :-)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Chicken Fever (5.10b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: The start on this one is a little tricky. Higher up there is some fun mixed techniques of jamming, stemming & flared chimneying. The route looks like it takes good pro until you are past the roof. If you don't want to be in semi-runout knob territory, it looks like it is a small step right to merge with the upper crack of P2 of Sherrie's Crack, which takes some small gear.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Gilligan's Chicken (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: I agree that the entry in the beginning is perhaps the crux of the route. Although I could have gotten by without it, I was happy to have a #6 BD cam to protect the entry.

The chimney is very secure with lots of cheater holds to help your arms & legs. You can place pro in the chimney without too much drag (note I was climbing with doubles). There is a thin seam that occasionally opens up, so I placed a nut and small C3, 'cause I might as well! More optional than the entry piece. The exit ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 18 - Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Ahh, the other fist is hidden behind the crack edge. Good to know the giant chickens don't have too big of an advantage on the offwidths . . .


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 24 - Highway Star : Highway Star (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: 10b variation looks to be a lead you'd want to do with double ropes to avoid terrible rope drag while still protecting the leader from a dangerous fall at the crux.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Sherrie's Crack (5.10c)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: If your follower has trouble on the lower crack, they can use your first cam or 2 to jumar the crack while on belay :-)

This crack eats up cams & nuts, so you can protect it very well. Great & safe climb to push your crack leading.

I have fat hands, so I could never get a good rest on the 5.9 above, apart from stepping left on the large knob about 3/4 up the 5.9 corner. However, the finger jams lower down were bomber. Stem your feet to keep your weight in line below the finger jams. The wide g... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Flush (5.10b/c)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Fun little problem and a great TR after climbing Y Crack. You can also climb a 5.3 corner to the left to access the TR anchors. For bonus points, climb the flare that comes up from beneath the starting platform - about 5.7 or so.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Swan Slab : Aid Route (5.11b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: A narrow single & double length sling (e.g. dyneema) is helpful for aiding the knob on the lower section. The second pitch didn't have pro I felt good about falling on! I think if I had brought offset cams or especially offset nuts it would have been solid, though. I never really noticed much of a crux in the second pitch, as it was so sustained throughout.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Swan Slab : Lena's Lieback (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: You can link the last 2 pitches as one with a single 60m rope as long as you are careful with rope drag. Selective pro placement, long slings, and flipping the rope over the corners helps. Upper crack is work doing. Not too dirty, and the flare requires some thinking to figure out the moves.

The second pitch does have an interesting large flake that is suspended in space by being pinched between the wall and a projecting flake. Don't place pro in this thing!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Y Crack (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 2, 2012

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Comments: It is in the SuperTopo guide. At least the newer edition :-)

The lower section was mossy last weekend, which made the start a little more exciting. In the lower section I did find a pocket just wide & deep enough to take a #000 C3 as your first piece, about 15' up & about a body length short of a secure stance with better pro. It might have held a short fall.

The 5.3 corner was fun to mess around on & Royal Flush was a great bonus TR. A ginle 60m rope with a rappel to reach those anchors... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Three Brothers Area : Camp 4 Wall : The Buttocks (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: Chimney has bomber pro all the way up if you go deep enough inside. There is a flake in there that takes small pro, but it is so tight & secure that you'll wonder why you're placing it. Bring a headlamp if you want to see the way up with the least dirt & grime.

There is free booty in the lodged debris, but you'll probably want to skip that like I did and just get back out into daylight.

A #2 BD C4 cam or a solid hand jam protects the crux if you slip on the exfoliating granite.

This rou... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Pat Pinnacle (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: I found the crux entry really tricky to figure out. Seemed more like a 5.8+ to me. At least this was way harder than P1 of Reed's Left (5.8), P2 of Stone Groove (5.8), Tweedle Dee (5.8), Tarkus (5.8), maybe on par or a bit harder than Cid's Embrace (5.8), but fairly committing & not with the greatest fall (#6 seemed unstable and easy to knock out the way you'd fall, about a body-length onto sharp rocks). Difficulty eases a bit after the entry but is still a chimney you could fall out of if... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Desperate Straights (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know how feasible it is to do the 5.9 variation by just taking the left slot with the tree midway up instead of the right slot? Although I've only led a handful of 5.10a's so far, I found the 5.10c variation a better option than attempting to step across to the 5.9 crack. That step across is wide and insecure!

Watch out for loose rocks on top. The bolts at the top are in more of a position for rappelling rather than belaying, so I set up a belay at some rocks higher up. The rope end... more >>


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