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Kor Roof on a windy day. Hard to tell which way is up here! Basically into the photo, up about 45 degrees, rotated 30 degrees clockwise.


Member Since: Oct 3, 2009
Last Visit: Apr 15, 2014
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Areas = 15
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All 842 | Routes | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvments | Comments 107 | Posts 67 | Stars 366 | Ratings 298
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Flush (5.10b/c)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Fun little problem and a great TR after climbing Y Crack. You can also climb a 5.3 corner to the left to access the TR anchors. For bonus points, climb the flare that comes up from beneath the starting platform - about 5.7 or so.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Aid Route (5.11b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: A narrow single & double length sling (e.g. dyneema) is helpful for aiding the knob on the lower section. The second pitch didn't have pro I felt good about falling on! I think if I had brought offset cams or especially offset nuts it would have been solid, though. I never really noticed much of a crux in the second pitch, as it was so sustained throughout.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Lena's Lieback (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: You can link the last 2 pitches as one with a single 60m rope as long as you are careful with rope drag. Selective pro placement, long slings, and flipping the rope over the corners helps. Upper crack is work doing. Not too dirty, and the flare requires some thinking to figure out the moves.

The second pitch does have an interesting large flake that is suspended in space by being pinched between the wall and a projecting flake. Don't place pro in this thing!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Y Crack (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Mar 2, 2012

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Comments: It is in the SuperTopo guide. At least the newer edition :-)

The lower section was mossy last weekend, which made the start a little more exciting. In the lower section I did find a pocket just wide & deep enough to take a #000 C3 as your first piece, about 15' up & about a body length short of a secure stance with better pro. It might have held a short fall.

The 5.3 corner was fun to mess around on & Royal Flush was a great bonus TR. A ginle 60m rope with a rappel to reach those anchors... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : The Buttocks (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: Chimney has bomber pro all the way up if you go deep enough inside. There is a flake in there that takes small pro, but it is so tight & secure that you'll wonder why you're placing it. Bring a headlamp if you want to see the way up with the least dirt & grime.

There is free booty in the lodged debris, but you'll probably want to skip that like I did and just get back out into daylight.

A #2 BD C4 cam or a solid hand jam protects the crux if you slip on the exfoliating granite.

This rou... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Pat Pinnacle (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: I found the crux entry really tricky to figure out. Seemed more like a 5.8+ to me. At least this was way harder than P1 of Reed's Left (5.8), P2 of Stone Groove (5.8), Tweedle Dee (5.8), Tarkus (5.8), maybe on par or a bit harder than Cid's Embrace (5.8), but fairly committing & not with the greatest fall (#6 seemed unstable and easy to knock out the way you'd fall, about a body-length onto sharp rocks). Difficulty eases a bit after the entry but is still a chimney you could fall out of if... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Desperate Straights (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know how feasible it is to do the 5.9 variation by just taking the left slot with the tree midway up instead of the right slot? Although I've only led a handful of 5.10a's so far, I found the 5.10c variation a better option than attempting to step across to the 5.9 crack. That step across is wide and insecure!

Watch out for loose rocks on top. The bolts at the top are in more of a position for rappelling rather than belaying, so I set up a belay at some rocks higher up. The rope end... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Unknown (5.8?) (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: RE: .10c I thought that 2nd pitch felt hard!

There is an old line in the Reid guide that takes a line up Makayla's (or even the next line of bolts left, which is a bit easier) that also goes to the 2nd pitch via a 5.8 corner further left than the .10c variation. I haven't climbed the upper part of this but Reid calls it 5.8.

There is also a line a little to the right of Suds that is also really fun. Starts with bolts then goes into a nice lieback corner then ends with bolts on a corner/face. I... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Rixon's Pinnacle : East Chimney (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 13, 2012

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Comments: I was wondering about that fixed line today when I wandered by the route. Perhaps if I climb it this year I should chop the line to remove any temptations?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Lower Brother : Positively 4th Street (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 13, 2012

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Comments: A nice, soft 5.9. You can protect the roof very well.

No ants in the bay tree this time. However they were everywhere at the gear belay! They were also all over the small tree atop P3 (5.4) in the Reid guide.

We topped out today, and I'd say the pitch after the 5.4 is a nice 5.6 hand to finger crack with an interesting hummock mantel move to finish. Beware that the Reid guide info of 2 pitches of 5.7 is not correct! We did 3 long pitches, with some scrambling in between. It is very difficult t... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Cid's Embrace (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: I found the upper section to be harder and more interesting than the lower section. I don't see why people stop after the first 60 ft! I found Lancelot to be less burly than this route, so I recommend climbing Lancelot as a warmup.

The upper section doesn't really have a double crack system, but rather, more of a wide flake that divides the chimney into two wide, wavy slots. The flake seemed too rounded for liebacking, so I stemmed and climbed the right slot as an offwidth. Wear long sleeves or... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Lancelot (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Loose rock is not a problem on this route. The start has some loose flakes, but you can take the next corner over and step back into the system higher up to avoid it. Apart from the start, there is just a loose chockstone at the beginning of the unexpected challenge. You can pull on it, just don't yank out on it.

Great route overall!

Be wary on the rappels if you're using doubles. The current anchor allows the rope tip to snag on a chockstone at the top just before it pulls through the rings.... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 26, 2012

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Comments: Holy big hands Batman! I have to start with hand stacking, and it only gets wider from there! Great chicken suit, btw.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Five and Dime Cliff : Inner Reaches (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: The first pitch ascends the left side of a fractured tower. Does anyone know what the right side goes at? You can merge with the 5.7 route at the 'cave' section, and it looks pretty interesting.

A #6 BD Cam can be helpful for protecting the earlier squeeze on P1 until you can reach inside deep enough to place a small cam in a seam. Bring 1-2 #5s for P1 pro. You can break this up into 2 pitches and set up a belay inside the cave (I accidentally did this as I wasn't sure when the pitc... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variat... (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 24, 2011

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Comments: According to the Reid guide this variation is actually a route called "Dynamic Doubles" with FA credit given to Dan & Sue McDevitt in 1991.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Diversions (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 20, 2011

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Comments: Maybe the guide should have clarified a rack ranging "down" to 3 inches :-o


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Stone Groove (5.10b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: Cruxes were a bit easier than Lunatic Fringe, but this route felt much more sustained and insecure on the jams.

The top anchors can be reached by a fun 5.9 variation around the corner to the right that is worth doing in its own right (I'd give it 2-3 stars). Bring pro through #4 BD C4 and be prepared for some sustained & steep jamming, with occasional surprise stems to keep things reasonably easy. There is a little loose rock that is easy to avoid, and a fun lieback on a hollow flake (1-2... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : The Remnant-Left Side (5.10b)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: Would be worth 3 stars if the route & base weren't so dirty. Very physical route, which can either be mostly liebacked or also incorporate some OW technique (e.g. I cammed my right leg in to assist with the lower liebacking after turning the first roof).

Unless perhaps you can start the route as squeeze chimney, you have to climb a ways on pretty burly terrain before you could even get a #6 4CU in, though a crash pad might be helpful for the start.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : The Remnant-Right Side (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: After the first 10-15 ft of chimneying you can place a #6 BD C4, which you can slide most of the rest of the way up the route. I left a #5 BD C4 at the entry to the squeeze, removed the #6 there and replaced it above the squeeze for more pushin'. A #4 BD C4 can be nice to protect the final moves exiting the squeeze and reaching the anchor.

Bring long slings for a good extension for setting up a TR. The same anchor works well for TRing The Remnant, Left, which is also a g... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Do (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 19, 2011

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Comments: What's with the hand stacks? The flare felt too tight and deep for me to get any stacks. I just couldn't get both hands deep enough into the crack. Better to side pull crimp on the inside crack and other features until you can sidepull on a jam in the inside crack. Careful foot stacking on the flare brings you out OK. Once your feet are past the blocks in the pod, it seemed to climb well as a squeeze chimney.

A #6 BD C4 is all you need for the bottom half, then a #4 BD C4 can be lef... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Diversions (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 13, 2011

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Comments: P1 (5.6-5.7): Great chimney. Don't bother trying to place pro. It's futile and the chimney is pretty secure, although a spot for the first 10 ft might keep things safer. After this you go sideways enough that you'll only fall/slide into the chimney instead of out of it. You can place a #5 Camalot or a #2 Camalot in the flake at the very end, but these pieces only protect the exit from the pitch.

Do this pitch the right way for wide leading training and bring all your wide gear for ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variat... (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 12, 2011

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Comments: The easiest way to get to the base of the crack is to go up some ledges on the right (5.5).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Reed's Pinnacle Regular Rou... (5.9) : Photo
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 7, 2011

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Comments: Funny, left-side in seemed better to me. Fun traverse!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Babble On (5.10a)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Dec 7, 2011

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Comments: Where do you cut right to get to the Boneheads bolt anchors? I could never find a traverse that looked easier than 5.10a (Then again I suck at face climbing :-) )so I trusted the tree - this time. Slings are all stiff and crunchy. I was really tempted to leave a sling but I gave a good bounce test and it seemed OK for the time being.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: For pitch 3 you can place a #2 Camalot behind a detached flake halfway to the second (now first) bolt for psych pro :-) It's really not too bad getting up to the first remaining bolt (cl. 3). It looks far but from the last ledge you can barely clip it. It looks to me like the missing bolt was only reachable from the same ledge, so I don't really think the missing bolt adds any danger to the pitch.

Two interesting things to consider about the summit pitch:

1. The summit cap sounds pretty... more >>


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