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Rock Climbing Photo: Kor Roof on a windy day. Hard to tell which way is...


Member Since: Oct 3, 2009
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Mark P Thomas

Mark P Thomas
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Point Rank: # 3,325
Total Points: 178
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 50
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 919 | Routes | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 115 | Posts 67 | Stars 414 | Ratings 310
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlotte about to downclimb the crux section of t...

Charlotte about to downclimb the crux section of the approach to the base of Chrysler Crack. Seemed about 5.2ish. A fall would hurt but you won't bounce off the exposed ledge. There are two more easie

NV : Red Rock : ... : Chrysler Crack (5.9)

Jan 31, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: The entire pitch of Chrysler Crack. There is a nic...

The entire pitch of Chrysler Crack. There is a nice belay at the tree.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Chrysler Crack (5.9)

Jan 31, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Charlotte at the gear placement, reaching the seco...

Charlotte at the gear placement, reaching the second crux of the climb, transitioning from the wider chimney back into a deeper squeeze. The Wallow (5.6-5.7).

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Wallow (5.7)

Jan 31, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Charlotte leading the crux of The Wallow (5.6-5.7)...

Charlotte leading the crux of The Wallow (5.6-5.7).

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Wallow (5.7)

Jan 31, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: After the crux of The Wallow (5.6-5.7).

After the crux of The Wallow (5.6-5.7).

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Wallow (5.7)

Jan 31, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Inside The Wallow (5.6-5.7).

Inside The Wallow (5.6-5.7).

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Wallow (5.7)

Jan 31, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: The Wallow (5.6-5.7).

The Wallow (5.6-5.7).

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Wallow (5.7)

Jan 31, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Charlotte leading the Zoroaster chimney as one of ...

Charlotte leading the Zoroaster chimney as one of her first chimney leads. She is in the second chimney on the technical crux.

Jan 31, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Kor Roof on a windy day. Hard to tell which way is...

Kor Roof on a windy day. Hard to tell which way is up here! Basically into the photo, up about 45 degrees, rotated 30 degrees clockwise.

The People of Mountain Proj... : Mark P Thomas : Profile Pics

Apr 25, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: Route Topo

Route Topo

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : The Buttocks (5.9)

Feb 29, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: Loving the lead on Hand Jive (5.9). Little Cottonw...

Loving the lead on Hand Jive (5.9). Little Cottonwood Canyon.

The People of Mountain Proj... : Mark P Thomas : Profile Pics

Aug 5, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Right Sawdust Crack (5.8) in J-Tree. Solid...

Leading Right Sawdust Crack (5.8) in J-Tree. Solid, meaty jams! (I know the rope got flipped. Don't worry, I fixed it right away :-) )

The People of Mountain Proj... : Mark P Thomas : Profile Pics

Dec 24, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A few notes:

(1) For the end of step 5 of Justin Hernandez's description, I think the bush is unnecessary and less secure. For those curious, here is the spot:
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlotte about to downclimb the crux section of t...
Charlotte about to downclimb the crux section of the approach to the base of Chrysler Crack. Seemed about 5.2ish. A fall would hurt but you won't bounce off the exposed ledge. There are two more easier cruxes after this for the approach. The second one is more exposed but much easier.

Otherwise, I'd say his description is excellent and spot on. No death falls, but on the first & third cruxes, you could maybe break your ankle if you fell, so be careful.

(2) #6 BD C4 is tipped out almost from the get-go. Only bring smaller gear if it is much smaller to use in fissures higher up. The #9 Valle... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : The Wallow (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: If you're used to chimneys, this is well protected if you stay deep enough inside and know how to climb squeeze chimneys. You can only really fall if you fall out, and you can only fall out if you stay too far out to use unnecessary face holds. I'd call this a secure 5.6 chimney in Yosemite Valley, for comparison.

This is a great early chimney lead as it isn't too insecure, long, or sustained, but it is somewhat technical, so for those not used to squeezes, I'd recommend top roping this first.... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tuna and Chips Wall : Fishbreath (5.5)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Route protects well with mostly cams and a couple of nuts if you want to sew it up. The rock is a bit soft in places but more solid than a lot of the trad leading in the area (based on my limited trad leading in RR). It is more solid than average for trad climbing on sandstone in general, but it might be a surprise for those new to leading trad on sandstone.

The end is exposed but not too bad. Just traverse around behind the pillar (entering cl. 2-3 terrain for a bit) and climb it from the back... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Zoroaster (5.8- X)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A #1 BD C4 protects this climb fine and it is a great introduction to leading chimneys for the novice chimney leader.

It is only 5.8 X if you climb straight up from the outside and ignore the rest of the chimney.

If you climb the chimney as you would any chimney on a trad climb, you can make it ~5.5 PG. Just walk inside about 10-15' to where a gigantic piece of the formation has fractured and tipped over, sealing the back of the chimney. This part is about cl. 4-5 chimneying on great wa... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Although the routes are short and there is a bit of a hike to reach this crag, the routes are very high quality and allow easy top-roping, mock leading, and leading from 5.7 to 5.11, thin cracks to chimney. IMO, the hike is a nice warmup & scenic, and it keeps this crag very quiet. It is a great place to practice while getting away from the crowds. An approach scramble up and over Kraft Mountain makes it even more fun.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Bigwank (5.9)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Extra fun if you start from down in the hole. It is just a tad too wide to chimney well there, and is easier to do a mild sidewinder technique for a foot or two until you can start chimneying better.

If you want to lead from the hole and protect yourself from a fall without pre-placing a #6 from the starting block, a Valley Giant #9 is recommended. The rest of the rack is spot on for sewing up a lead. It is very easy to push cams as you go.

My only complaint on this climb is that i... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Viagra Tower : ZigZag (5.6)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 31, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: In the photo shown, the final section is the crux, and it has no reliable pro and a ledge-fall potential. I backed off after seeing that the pro was not good and it is easy to fall (and hit a ledge) while placing. You can exit left via a very chill leaning crack climb to the Winger/Woofers anchors.

It looks like you could also traverse very far right and finish up a gully, but that option looks much easier & less fun.

My follower tried placing gear at the crux, fell, and hit a ledge even with... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 21 - Reed's Pinnacle Area : The Deer Route (5.7)
By: Mark P Thomas When: Jan 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If you do bring any pro, hanging glowsticks on the gear make the scene a little more fun. :-)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome
By: Mark P Thomas When: Feb 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Unless you are wanting more pitches to climb (e.g. Royal Arches linkup) or you are staying in the Valley and the time for driving up Hwy 120 is too unappealing, for any route on this dome I don't see why people don't just hike in and out from Hwy 120.

Coming in, it was a nice and scenic hike on an easy trail, and it only took me 2.5 Mammoth Brewery IPAs to reach the summit (about 2.5 hrs, including stops for pictures and giving hikers & trailrunners beta), and heading back after sunset, even wi... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Brother : Camp 4 Wall : Tweedle Dee (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Bryan, I think you were off-route on the first two pitches. I have climbed it twice, linking pitches to do it as two, and the rotten rock wasn't that bad and limited to the middle of P1. It is actually one of my favorite chimney climbs in Yosemite! I took the left line, a bit farther away from Doggie Do & Doggie Diversions. I once tried climbing the line that starts directly above Doggie Do, that eventually merges with the line, and I backed off because it was so awful. I wonder if you took that... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb, although I think this climb had me more afraid of injury or death from loose blocks than Kor-Ingalls. P2 beyond the OW seemed the worst with loose death blocks. P3 was fine in that regard. OW is fun and climbs much differently than the one on Kor-Ingalls.

Regarding pro for the OW, I brought a #5 & #4 C4 Camalot. A #4 isn't that necessary if you brought a #5, but I would have preferred a #6. Seriously, while you can get by with a smaller large cam, if... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Elephant Butte : Standard (West Fins) (5.3)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Crux is thought-provoking but easy enough to do in hiking shoes. No real point in bringing pro on the climb, just a rope for the 2 rappels.

Fun route with some nice side canyons and squeeze chimneys to explore, and a great rest day detour. At a relaxed pace we were on the summit in less than two hours, and less than an hour getting out.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bullwinkle Tower : West Chimney (5.6)
By: Mark P Thomas When: May 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The crack seems surprisingly hard for 5.6, but if you have some wide technique and commit, you can really sink a leg in and sit on it while you work out the next move.

Current anchor conditions: 1 bolt is gone, the other has a shaft protruding from the rock and I could wiggle it. The third bolt still looks good.


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